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Isuzu Trooper



  • beer47beer47 Posts: 185
    Central NJ to Tuscaloosa, AL. About 1020 miles each way. Averaged about 18 MPG in varying conditions. Only problem was an annoying slight valve tap going up hills. This is a recent development. I have 46K on a 16 month old 2000 "S" Trooper. Never had a tap before. I tried Techron and STP every other tank and tried 6 different 87 octane brands to no avail. I am still under the B to B warranty. Would this be a valve adjustment? or computer chip adjustment? How would a carbon build-up be handled under warranty? Food for thought. I too, would like to track down that Tech Bulletin mentioned above. Cheers to all!
  • Just picked up the 2001 Trooper S 4WD last evening. I drove it back from the dealer to make sure there was not a repeat of the disaster we had with the Suzuki XL7. The vehicle is for my wife. She likes it so far. I'm preparing to order the littlepassenger 3rd row seat. We got a pretty good deal at $18,298. I am amazed at the power of the V6. I had to be careful how I stepped on the accelerator because of the pep. In a couple of days I may be taking my Excursion limited to trade in on something else. Not sure what. I love my Excursion Powerstroke diesel, but the kids don't want to ride with me anymore. They want to ride in the Trooper. I don't need all that room anymore so I'll get something smaller and less expensive. I'm just not sure what. On the drive home in the Trooper, I did notice some wind noise and slight rattle from the area of the rear door near the roof. Anyone have an idea what this might be? It only occurs at 70+ mph. It seems that the rear doors could be made to latch tighter when closed. Any adjustment available for this? My wife chose the light silver two-tone color (looks more like Champagne to me). I didn't like the color at first but it looks great all shined up, especially at night. I'm thinking about getting my own 2001 Trooper while the prices are great. But I'm also thinking about waiting to see what the redesign looks like if any. I really like the feel of the TOD and the power. I'm looking forward to the reliability everyone raves about. Oh well. At least we made it home... God bless all and Happy Trooping!
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Need a little help here deciding on whether to purchase a CD unit to go in my 01' Trooper. The seller says this CD player came out of a 1998 Trooper. Will this match up with the 01' wiring harness? Anyone with a sure fire answer, I would appreciate a quick response. Happy Trooping !!
  • oziroooziroo Posts: 2
    After about 47000KM (30000M) I'm just about to replace the original tyres on my 3.5 V6 Jackaroo (Trooper). I saw some discussion on the board previously about sizes other than 245 which can fit onto the standard rims but haven't been able to relocate it. Can anyone offer some advice or experience with sizes and tyres. Most of my driving is blacktop with some dirt and 4WD - but rarely hard core, mud etc. Currently thinking about an all terrain tyre such as the Michelin LX AT or the Bridgestone A/T D693, possibly Cooper Discoverer A/T. Thanks
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    I just replaced the plugs on a 1999 Trooper. What I removed were Champion Double Platinum plugs as also specified in the owner's manual (RC10PYP4) that looked GREAT. Based upon an earlier comment that the factory installed Denso plugs, I am assuming the prior owner previously had the Denso plugs replaced. That being the case these replacement plugs had anywhere from 10K to 40K miles on them depending on when the prior owner actually made the switch.

    I guess my bottom line is that if the plugs had only 10k miles on them then Champions aren't bad plugs it is just too soon to tell if they are great plugs. On the other hand if they had 40k miles on them I would conclude that the Champions are really good plugs. In any event they could easily go at least another 20k miles.

    Before someone gives me too much grief for changing out good plugs I agree that had I know their condition beforehand I would not have changed them. Instead, I had already bought the replacement plugs, psyched myself for the job, rounded up the tools and set aside the maintenance time. When removing that first plug I noticed it was in a little too tight. That convinced me I had to check all the plugs to see if they were also in tight (they were). Being that I was already doing that much work it only seemed natural to install the new plugs. The old "in for a dime in for a dollar" approach. At least now all the plugs are new, properly torqued, have anti-sieze on the threads and dielectric grease on the top. In addition, I have a good set of spare plugs should the need arise.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    WOW, that sounds like an awsome price on the new 01' Trooper. Was there a trade-in of some sort? Every time we hear of a new purchase lately, the price is lower than the one before it. Congratulations!!

    On the rear door and vibration etc.. I believe this is quite common with Troopers at the higher speeds. I have experienced it on my 97' and 01' models as well. I think it might have something to do with the integral wind deflector that blows dust off the back window. Don't know of anything you can do about it. About adjusting the back door...there is an adjustment on the lower door opening plate where the two doors meet. That latch ring is adjustable. BUT, I thought it would be a good idea to make mine tighter back in the summer due to a little "non-tight" small creeking sound coming from that area. I adjusted it to close tighter, but only increased my problem. After a few days I compared it to another new Trooper for closing action and flex, as the door is shut. I adjusted mine looser to match the new one and the sound improved greatly. Soooo tighter isn't necessairly better. As you shut the door, it should flex about 1/4" or so. You got the same color as my wife. She is very proud of her's. It does look sharp when all cleaned up!! Happy Trooping !!;->
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    you make a great point about relocating items you've seen on this board before. We need a search tool to be able to do that. I too have looked for past articles and never found them, even though I know they are on here. This board is so valuable and well used its difficult to find a subject from a couple months back. HEY BOARD OWNER, can we get a search tool ???
  • I appreciate the info regarding the rear door and the noise I hear at speed. There was a trade involved but the $18,298 was the negotiated price of the vehicle not counting the trade. The trade was basically a wash. I do have the 1/4 inch or so of flex in the rear door. I thought that was on the loose side, but after reading your post, I think I'll leave it alone. Thanks again.
  • I have read on two or three discussion groups that 275/75/16 is the largest tire that will fit the rims and not rub the wheel well. Also many have gone with the 275/70/16 for better handling. I use my 1995 mostly on paved and gravel roads. Sometimes on loose sand. I have been very happy with the Bridgestone Dueler H/Ls for quiet ride and good ratings for traction. As the tread wears down softer rubber is exposed which helps traction.


    I have on order the OME (Old Man Emu) Australian performance suspension upgrade kit (kit includes rear coil springs and all four shocks and poly bushings). This ugrade is rated to give 25mm lift. The front torsion bars can be cranked up to raise the front 25mm also. I don't plan to get huge tires, but I want the better controlled ride. It is on sale at
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Glad to see that it got you home at least :)

    As for the door rattle, there is an adjustment, and the dealer can check it out for you. Wind noise will generally be minimal, but you will hear it since its got the aerodynamics of a brick wall.

    As for the search it sux on here. I have been lax in going through here and sumarizing up the posts for the FAQ page on

    The champagne color ROCKS. That's what I have (see pics on You don't need to wash it for like 6 months at a time and it still looks clean!

    Tires: Most people go with 265-75-16s. I'm considering going with 275-70-16s. I'm pretty sure with just an OME rear springs and cranking the T-bars you can get 285-75-16s on there as well but not positive.


  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Are you having a pinging problem (pre-detonation) or Valve Tap (lifter problem)?

    Pinging has to due with fuel, fuel delivery, and is usually only noticed during heavy acceleration or uphill, and can also have to do with the ECU.

    Valve Tap has to do with the valves not opening and closing at the proper times, and usually has more to do with the oil system.

  • Hello all, I don't post much on the board here, but I do get a lot of valuble and interesting info from all of the your posts. Anyway, my wife and my mom both have Troopers.... a 99 and 00. Both have not had any problems with a combined 60K miles. Anyway, I put a trailer hitch on my wifes the other day. A Class III that had 3 bolts on each side and it used existing bolt holds and weld in nuts on the frame. The install was a bit of a hastle because the hitch mounted both flat to the bottom of the frame and on the side. I had to pull the bolts out of the metal bumper that is hiddden under the plastic bumper on the back. The problem was that the hitch was a very tight fit on the sides and I had to use my jack to push up on it with equal force and then use a rubber hammer to hit the side attachement rails to get it to go up around the frame. Once that was done, the bumper attachment rail which had to be between the hitch rail and the frame slid out of place and covered the bolt holes. I had to work with it so I could get the holes lined up so I could put my bolts in. The exhaust pipe was in my way but I was able to get it done and let me tell you, that hitch is on there. It looks pretty good and the wiring harness that I ordered was a snap to put in. Thanks go to Paisan for giving me a heads up on where to look to hook this think up. Simplest trailer light hook up I have ever had to deal with. I usually end up having to manual wire them myself but not this one. My mom paid UHaul to put a hitch on her Trooper which has 3 bolts on one side and 2 on the other. Her's is a class II and uses the tow hook bolts to bolt on. It is more hidden than hers but a class II. Honestly, if anyone can find a hidden class III I think that is the way to go. I Ordered mine off of I got the wireing harness and a receiver(w/2sided balls on it) for 183.00 which includes shipping. I might have been able to get a better deal somewhere else but I'm not sure. Except for them getting my address wrong, they were FAIR to deal with. That address mishap cost me a week and a half before delivery. Also, just installed K&N air filters so I am interested to see if mileage improves a little. Anyway, I love our Trooper, think they are great vehicles and would recommend them to anyone on this board who are considering purchasing one. -- JR
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Yep, I have to say now that I properly kept my 2nd wiring harness away from my exhaust pipe, it works great. :) I too have the K&N filter, not sure if it gave a great deal of extra power, but I figured at least it's re-usable.

  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Just got in touch with the maintenance department and my 97' is ready to go! The engine valve tapping is cured! Simply a matter of dissolving the excess varnish off the valve lash adjusters. I asked about running this oil on a continuous basis and they said, "its recommended by the manufacturer" (Isuzu) so leave it in there for up to 6000 miles. No need to dump it out now and put standard oil in there. They did put a new oil filter after the shop run to clean the system up. I'll pick the car up in a couple days and report back on my assessment of the engine noise level. Anyone else out there running 0W-30 oil in your Troopers?? If your experiencing valve tapping, it might just save you a trip to the dealer service department. Happy Trooping !! ;->
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    I'm sure this is still a good oil, but 0W30 is a pretty big viscosity spread and there are probably quite a few additives in there. Unless you're in a pretty cold climate, I don't think it's necessary to run 0W30. Can it really be any thinner, and therefore better for resolving valve tapping, than 5W30?

    If it solves the problems you've had, then it's a good choice. I'm running 5W30 Mobil1 now and trying to figure out whether the engine noise I hear is valve lifter or spark knock. The Mobil1 has been in only since 3,000 miles ago so hopefully it and the Techron I dumped in the gas tank will resolve my problems.

    Bsmart, how did they dissolve the excess varnish-- simply by dropping in Mobil1 0W30, or did they do something else?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I run 5-30 Mobil 1 as well. Works nicely for me.

  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    I forgot to mention, I installed the new Sway-A-Way torsion bars last Saturday. Enjoying the reduced body roll so far. I am going up north tonight, towing my pop-up camper, will be curious to see how it handles and rides.
  • I test drove a new 2001 Trooper last night. My wife loves it!

    I found it somewhat uncomfortable as far as front legroom and position of legs to pedals.

    I'm 6'2" and can't believe a SUV that size has that little room up front. Maybe it't the seat mounted too high?

    Anyone else had similar thoughts?

    The salesman recommended a bodyshop that would remount the seat tracks farther back. I not sure about this???
  • i30g20i30g20 Posts: 24
    I recently replaced my 1992 Trooper w/ a 2001 Trooper. When slowing down using the brakes, I feel some vibration. Is this normal? Is it a byproduct of the anti-lock brakes? I''ve other vechicles with anti-lock, but never feel them engage unless I brake fairly hard. With the Trooper, I pretty much always feel them, unless I just tap the brakes lightly. Thanks for your input.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Sounds like your braking problem is warped rotors. Did you recently have your tires rotated? The bolts could have been over-torqued and caused the rotors to warp.

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