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Comments
$10.9K sounds like a steal to me.
Just a thought.
Dave
Let us know how well the transaction met your expectation. I've bidded on a couple of vehicles on Ebay but did not win the auction - well I did win one auction for a 1999 Trooper but not the reserve.
BTW, what tires were those 265/75/16's that you put on the SLX? My sons 1998 Trooper we purchased 2 weeks ago has 2 'Trail Mark' tires on the front and a Dunlop and a Goodyear on the rear - all 245's. The two 'Trail Mark' tires are in very good shape and I either need to get 2 more 'Trail Mark' tires or a whole new set. Do you know who sells 'Trail Mark' tires?
You want to see what I bought go to Ebay motors and do a search by item number. I'm # 2476061730. I've bought 5 vehicles on ebay counting this one. I went with the $500 delivery. Should be here middle of next week. Tomorrow I'm going to West Palm Beach Fl to pick up a Lexus GS 400 ebay # 2474469947. got my fingers crossed there too.
I'm looking at a 98 SLX which I'm told is in very good shape overall. (It's in VA so I can't look at it right away). The rear seatback angle adjustment knobs seem to have been chewed up by a dog somewhat. Does anyone have a moment to take a quick look at their trooper to tell me if those knobs seem easily replaceable (is there a screw in center of each, or...) Thanks,
Sean
It looks like tomorrow I'll close a deal on a 1999 Trooper (Luxury Package)with about 62K miles. I'm planning to buy it from a Lexus dealer in MA and it's currently in my driveway so that I can have it checked out by my mechanics tomorrow ASAP. Then its got to go back to the dealer to wrap up paperwork, etc. My mechanics are good guys but they don't have a lot of Trooper experience so please help me out with the following if you can: The only problem I've found with the vehicle is that it tends (50% of the time) to *slam* into TOD mode with a shudder (worse at 50-60 mph but present even at 30MPH, sometimes a loud "clunk"). The tires are almost new all around and I'll measure them tomorrow but it seems they are the same size. TOD does engage, TOD lights seem correct, but there's a distinct whine from the drivetrain in TOD.
My first two suspects are the condition/level of the SOTF fluid or TOD fluid. Please help me with the basics.
1. Where does the TOD fluid fill and drain (or is this obvious?) Does it use Dextron III ATF? Is the level correct when the fluid is at the upper threads of the fill hole?
2. Where does the SOTF fluid fill and drain (or is this obvious?) Does it use hyphoid oil? If so, what grade? How does one check for correct level?
3. Propeller shaft needs relube?
There's free beer down the road to anyone who helps me figure this out! This is not a typo.
The truck had just one owner who did most of the maintenance himself. I spoke with him by phone this evening and he seemed very straightforward. He traded the truck in last fall so I figure he was free to be honest with me about it as the sale has nothing to do with him now. Bearings were supposedly repacked at 30K and 60K. Brakes were done (front rotors and pads, rear pads only) at about 60K (receipts in truck). Tires seem almost new. Oil was reportedly changed every three-thousand miles. The timing belt has not yet been done (what does this usually cost to do...$300 ish?) and the valves haven't been checked (although they aren't noisy). Tranny has not yet been power flushed (OK to do this for the first time at 62K?) The truck has not yet been through the Lexus shop but I think I'd rather cut a deal with them where the sales department pays my mechanics for any needed work (instead of their own service people). It might save them money and I'd know who was working on my truck. Intake manifold gasket was done in January of 2003.
Running down the maintenance items from the book:
1. Front and rear axle oil change: I beleive this was done at 30K, will check condition, smell, etc.
2. air filter: will check
3. spark plugs: haven't been done, thought perhaps I'd do them now lest they be seized in at 100K
4. change coolant: may have been done, probably should be done now
5. Timing belt: not yet done, likely OK until 75,000?
6. Valve clearances: not yet checked, don't seem noisy
7. Tire rotation: nearly new tires
8. repack front bearings: apparently done at 30K and 60K
8. clean radiator core and A/C condenser: Do they mean the fins? What's needed here?
9. Battery fluid level: will check, seems to have newish battery
10. Coolant level: will check
11. brake and clutch fluid level: will check
12. Check for fluid leaks: will check
13. change oil and filter: will do
14. check hoses: will do
15. check exhaust: will do
16. check fuel line, cap, tank: will do
17. check drive belt: will do, when do folks normally replace these - just by visual inspection?
18. check tires and wheels: A-OK
19. check steering: slight pull to right, may need alignment, Lexus dealer will pay
20. check brake lines and hoses: will do
21. check brakes: should be like new, will check
22. check brake pedal free play: seems fine
23. change power steering fluid: ??
24. check parking brake: will do
25. lube accel. linkage: where? at pedal pivot?
26. check suspension and steering: new shocks and poly bushings coming sometime this spring
27. lube body and chassis: will do
28. lube rear propeller shaft: will do (could this be related to TOD clunking?)
29. check prop shaft flange torque: what's the proper torque setting?
30. check TOD fluid: maybe change it?
31. check SOTF gear oil: maybe change it, where is the unit? Do I recall correctly that it's part of the drivetrain to the left front wheel?
32. check cruise control linkage and hose
33. check starter safety switch: OK
34. check accel. linkage: will do
35: lube key lock cylinder: will do
Any advise/ideas? I'm all ears and especially interested in knowing what might cause a TOD engagement clunk.
Thanks!
Sean
The truck seems tight and solid overall, interior is in excellent shape and exterior has just some scratches here and there. The dealership includes a 4500 mile warranty that seems to cover most of the major components. At $10,000 it seems like a good deal.
Read the town hall oil consumption problems for Isuzu.
I do really need some help on this TOD clunk though, anyone?
Sean
I have a friend with a 98 SLX. He had to have the trasmission rebuilt at about 55K. It's the only thing that worries me about my Trooper.
I like Isuzu Troopers and think they are great vehicles. Some of them do burn oil between oil changes but to me that issue is not a show stopper.
Was that list of 35 items the 60K service? If so, I also need to do it as my 1999 has 65k on it. Too bad we don't live closer together as we can get these Troopers side by side and do the maintenance assembly line style.
1. Check the transmission and transfer case mount bolts. Mine were loose when I bought the thing brand new. Having those tightened up helped a lot.
2. Do not engage TOD unless you are driving in a straight line. If the front axle shafts are turning at different rates when TOD is engaged, you are guaranteed a clunk. This, however, will not always prevent a clunk.
Regarding the transfer case whine, they all whine a little bit if you listen carefully. It shouldn't be a roar in your ears, but keep in mind you are sitting on top of a transmission that probably contains a multirow chain or some large gears swirling in Dexron II, not gear lube. They will make some noise.
I don't think you will ever achieve a seamless transition. If you do consistently, I would worry that TOD is not engaging properly.
Regards,
Tom
I was unable to duplicate the TOD clunk today and wonder if, without realizing it, I was engaging TOD with the wheels turned a bit (sometimes) last night. I was tired, it was a long drive, etc. Maybe I wasn't being careful enough. Or, maybe it hadn't been used much in months of sitting at the dealership (very possible) and needed some exercise. I also think I'm going to make a practice of engaging TOD only at very slow speeds (or when stopped). It certainly can't hurt to lessen the load on the drivetrain that way. My mechanic, who's worked on all of our vehicles, thinks "shift on the fly", in any form, is hard on the drivetrain even though the manufacturers may say its OK.
This "new" Trooper has new tires all around as well as new front rotors and pads. The rear pads are also new but my mechanic thinks the rear rotors are no good. So, after some negotiating with the Lexus dealership, they agreed to give me a check for $400 to be used with my mechanic for a rear brake job (about $300) and towards a full fluids change. My inclination is to change all fluids. ie: power flush the tranny, change to Mobil 1 engine oil and filter, put fresh ATF in TOD unit, fresh synthetic hyphoid oil in front SOTF, fresh synthetic in both diffs. Does that make sense? That way I'll be starting out with new tires, new brakes and fresh fluids. I'll have them look at the coolant and see if that's worth flushing too (anyone have advice on that?) Naturally, we'll grease the driveshaft fittings and all the other grease points. I'll also do the serpentine belt because the truck is on its first belt still (I was told).
Does anyone have a source for good rotor prices? Are stock rotors best or are there better aftermarket options? NAPA rotors OK?
Isuzu specs timing belt replacement as 75,000 - 100,000 miles (depending on driving conditions). Is there any need to do it earlier?
cwm - My list is sort of a 60K service but it's a homebrew list I put together based on looking at the manual and thinking about my specific truck. A trooper wrenching party would be great.
Where the heck is the ATF fill bolt on the tranny? Same question for TOD unit. My mechanic and I were both under the truck today (on a lift) and couldn't find either one. We ignorant folks need some enlightening.
Does Haynes or Clymer make a repair manual that covers a 99 trooper? I'll check Amazon.
Thanks for the replies so far, I'm all ears (well, not quite like Ross Perot but my ears are wide open)
Cheers,
Sean
thanks,
Sean
Sean
If I recall, the TOD drain and fill bolts are on the back side of the transfer case. Again, if memory serves, they are both similar to gas or pipe bolts, in that they have a square opening (for use with a 3/8 ratchet or extension) and are tapered so they get tighter as you thread them in. The drain is obviously toward the bottom of the transfer case, the fill bolt about 1/2 way up. The TOD takes Dexron II ATF. There is no separate transfer case lube--it's all one housing.
I believe the ATF fill bolt is somewhere on the pan, but I have never cracked it open so that's a shot in the dark.
Regards,
Tom
Normally it goes in fine, like if I pull out and it is raining hard and then decide to engage right away, even up to 50 MPH. What my theory is, and I found some "web-facts" confirming this a long, long time ago was that the heat and speed at which the front end (axle, hubs, etc.) will be less than the rear after an extended period of driving in 2wd. So the system is out of sync when you engage.
I have confirmed this by having it clunk when engaging and then continuing driving for a longer while, once everything seemingly is the same temp I can engage and disengage quietly. So my solution is to be aware of the "feature" and when hot, or coming off a highway trip I wait for a stoplight to engage.
I have have my fluids changed/flushed/checked often, so I don't think it is a fluid problem. Axle and differential at 15 and 30K as well as trans and TOD. I do a lot of offroading so I try to keep the drivetrain happy.
-mike
Driving a straight line at 40 mph transfer was seamless, just a little whine in the driveline after it engaged. Later engaged TOD again at 60 mph and same response, no clunk or noise at all, just a increase in hum from the driveline. Very pleased with this performance. This a a solid machine ISUZU makes.
Seanreid, you got a great deal on your 99'. Just about 2 years ago I had to give $18000 for the same truck you gave $10000 for. They are a real value in todays car market. Anyone wanting one and NOT getting it now is just plain stupid!! I'm really impressed with your MPG on the 99' model. I've tried hard to get numbers like that, but its really rare. I can achieve that at reasonable speeds on the Interstate during long road trips, but NEVER in combined city/hwy driving. Congratulations on your purchase!
Still around Ryanendres?
Steve, Host
Warranty Question: It's my understanding that the 100/120K powertrain warranty can only transfer to immediate family members. I looked into it when I was shopping.
Clunking: It didn't clunk at all yesterday but I am certainly going to try to switch into TOD only at lower speeds whenever possible.
Gas Mileage: There are no cities of any reasonable size where I live so I rarely drive in any kind of traffic. My 19.4 mpg reflected about 60% highway miles and 40% backroads. I was very pleased though because I had only expected 18 mpg.
Rotors: Paisan/Mike, that's half the price I expected to pay. Do you recall anything about the manufacturer of those rotors? If they've been good for 50K, I'm in.
Fill and drain holes: After I posted, I discovered that these locations are shown in the manual so we should be able to find them next week.
I think this is a lot of vehicle for $10,000. I figured 62K wasn't *that* high a mileage. I always try to buy used vehicles with as low mileage as possible specifically to reduce the amount of miles the vehicle might have been driven without maintenance. The prior owner of this 99 said he was very careful about maintenance but I think he and I must have a different idea of what careful maintenance is. The fluids seemed OK (nothing black, only slight smells) but the S-belt, for example, was in horrible shape. I swapped it last night for a Goodyear belt (a straightforward process). There's a lot of surface rust on components under the vehicle but that happens eventually to all New England vehicles. Knock wood, but in the past I've seen that kind of surface rust get real ugly but never cause a functional problem. I hope that's the case here. I always try to rinse the underbody of my cars and trucks during the winter if possible.
Next week I had planned to do (or have my mechanic do) the following: replace rear rotors and pads, grease the various fittings, change air filter, change TOD ATF fluid, change to Mobil One and NAPA gold (Wix) oil filter and replace both differential and SOTF oils with synthetic. The big question in my mind is whether or not I should have the tranny flushed. Based on posts from this list as well as others, it does seem clear that some trannies (which are flushed for the first time above 50-60K) fail - supposedly because of the various gunk that can get forced into (and clog) small openings. I can try to call the owner but for now I'll assume the tranny fluid has not yet been changed or flushed. If this really is the first tranny fluid service, I'm tempted to just drain the pan and torque converter (if possible) and physically clean the filter screen. Any and all advice on this is most welcome. (The truck now has 63K)
Spark Plugs: I thought I might pull these now, check them and coat the threads with a little antiseize. Does that makes sense? Has anyone figured out how to remove those plug boots/etc. without damaging them? Is it just a matter of undoing those two screws and then pulling/twisting gently while praying?
Timing Belt: Is there any reason to swap it before 75K? This vehicle has no trailer hitch (yet) and may have never done any towing.
Coolant: Is it worth having this flushed or do I run the same risks as flushing the tranny? What about a simple drain and fill of the radiator?
Lube rear propeller shaft: this mention in the manual just refers to greasing, right?
Check prop shaft flange torque: anyone know the torque setting for this?
Clean radiator core and A/C condenser: Do they mean the fins? What's needed here?
Thanks for all the help. I'll try to return the favor over time.
Cheers,
Sean
Those have just been in storage since 2002 but the cargo matt is a perfect match for the "new" 99's interior and I'll mount the Hidden Hitch soon. The vehicle came with factory running boards so I won't need the tubular side steps. Maybe sell on E-Bay or is there a Trooper accessory classifieds site somewhere?
Cheers,
Sean Reid
[email protected]
1. lining both surfaces of the doors with "Brown Bread" acoustic matting
2. Running a fused power wire for the amp directly to the battery
3. Installing higher gauge speaker wire to the front doors.
4. Venting the hidden compartment under the rear seats and then mounting a McIntosh power amp in it.
5. Pulling the stock head unit and changer and replacing with my DIN Eclipse CD/Tuner head unit
6. Replacing the front drivers with my CDT components and crossovers(see http://www.cdtaudio.com)
7. Replacing the rear speakers with CDT drivers
Anyone else on the list into car audio? I hadn't done a custom installation in years when I did the AV in 2002 but it was so much fun I want to do it again.
The stock speaker locations in the Trooper are exceptionally good, especially the those rear speakers high up in the C pillars which orient the speakers much better than rear door mounting ever could.
I'm not into Rap, etc. but I do like to hear the low notes on a piano or a bass and so was really pleased to find out (with the AV) that the CDT drivers were pulling beautifully down to about 35hz once the doors were damped. In other words, there was no need for a subwoofer. I think the same may be true in the Trooper.
Cheers,
Sean
Anyone have a problem like this?
As far as the rubber boots go, there is NO guarantee you won't have a problem. I had one that did NOT want to come out no matter how I tried. It did finally give up but it took some serious twisting and looked deformed by the time I got it out. It did work fine after it was reinstalled. PRAY real hard when you start taking them off. Hope you don't break one as Pasain can attest to.
Never sieze is a MUST for plug re-installation. You might want to put a dab of it on the rubber boot to prevent future sticking as well.
Saw it on Ebay, just so happend that this truck was on my way home. Clean as can be! Can't wait to take it off road. I came out of a lease; 2000 Mitsubishi Montero XLS. Didn't like it too much though... Absolutely zero power! The Trooper has been maintained exceptionaly well. The horse power is definitely a plus. Handles great and no pulling to any side.
PS: Sean, when are we going off-roading? How about 3 weeks from now?
-mike
-mike
I am not having any luck finding any instructions for the 1995 trooper.
Thanks in advance.
OT
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Is there a poor alignment causing much more than normal friction? Is the tire pressure too low? Try parking on level ground, put it in neutral and push it by yourself, do this also with another higher mpg Trooper. If there is no problem pushing it manually maybe the problem is in the engine or transmission. Is your air filter stopped up? Or air flow sensor giving a signal like there's lots more air than you have so the computer adds more fuel? Are your exhausts freely moving?
-mike
Not bad timing though, I dropped it off at a local shop to get it taken care of and at the same time I'll get my shocks and springs put in
Anyone know if the tight coils go on the top or bottom of the coil springs?
-mike
Once my garage is cleaned out I will take the roof rack off and see if that makes a difference? It certainly does on the highway, but around town I don't go over 40.
I wonder about the plugs because of the oil burn, even though I burn less than others on this board, it is possible the plugs are not firing as good as they can due to buildup?
1000 miles @ 11mpg cost $181.82
1000 miles @ 16mpg cost $125.00
..
The difference is $56.82
Assume half of that is the extra weight and therefore extra energy to spin up the biger tires.
Big tire weight cost $28.41 per 1000 miles.
..
Now what if the steel belts in those big tires were bullet proof kevlar instead, IMHO the reduced weight where it counts at the tread would remove 2/3 of the cost of heavier tires or $19 / 1000 miles.
..
If you use a set of tires for 40000 miles that's a savings of 40*19 = $760. That's $190 per tire in savings.
..
How many of you would consider buying kevlar tires that cost twice as much as steel belted ones in order to save money over time?
My 275-70-16 tires are significantly heavier than the stock ones. I'm thinking that is a big portion along with my ARB, and 1-2" lift and my lead foot.
My friend drove it for a week and didn't complain about the milage at all. He is significantly gentler on the gas and brakes than I am.
-mike
More details as I use it some more.
-mike
-mike
..
stock P245/70/16 tires are around 30 to 33 lbs.
larger LT245/75/16C are around 40 lbs.
larger LT245/75/16E are around 48 lbs.
larger LT265/75/16C must be 50++ lbs.
IMHO P275/70/16 would be similar to lt265/75/16C
..
For some reason, tire weights are not easy to find on the internet. I got the weights for some sizes of ATRevos 30K miles ago from the store, they have a book to figure out shipping charges.
..
I would really like a larger set of tires, but I fear the cost in mpg not just the $$$ of the fuel, but the hard time my wife will give me about the mpg. Now with 255/70/16 I am getting about the same 16.7 MPG around town as she gets with the minivan, if that were 11mpg she would be all upset and I would never hear the end of how nice it would be to get a higher mpg vehicle, like a 4cyl. Saturn sedan she would rather have. We test drove that Saturn 4cyl. large size sedan once last year after my 1995 Trooper was totalled, it was totally gutless, worse than my 1984 1.9L Trooper, lacking the torque that I have become accustomed to with my Troopers. Flipside: if the Diesel Troopers finally get available after 2006 in the USA I can use her mpg sensitivity to help me get a diesel.