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Please elaborate on the crack. Were the cracks caused by "up down", "for aft", "side to side" forces?
I have the Thule crossbars bolted direct to the three positions of Overlander brackets with no problems.
I'm about to change the roof rack configuration to a pair of "for aft" running rails each bolted to three Overlander brackets. The reason is to be able to share the crossbars with our other car by using the Thule OEM rack to Thule crossbar attachment. The Thule attaching part will allow quick removal of the crossbars. The Thule attachments will allow me to adjust the distance between crossbars too.
I am concerned that the "for aft" bars bolted tightly to the Overlander racks will set up huge stress when the bars expand and contract.
Candidates for "for aft" bars are:1.) THule bars 78"
Where the last two would allow thermal movement the first with a bolt through it would not. I am leaning toward the stainless strut channel for lowest thermal expansion and greatest ease of slip mounting with good malability so it would bend not break (if you had an aluminum coat hanger how many times could you bend it before it breaks compared to a steel hanger?)
Thank You for your help in avoiding stress cracks in roof racks.
I suspect that these holes are part of the factory process for robots carrying the unfitted body around for welding and dunking in treatement tanks etc..
http://www.overlander.com sells their own made bracket for their own made expedition roof rack. The brackets can be had alone for $39 or so they are part number T100. I do not want a full time expedition roof rack (parachute) on my roof, so I bought just the brackets. There is a very nice expedition roof rack from ECB find it from http://www.isuzu-suvs.com Paison's web site.
T100 brackets and three Thule 1.25" x 7/8" x 50" crossbars make up the rack I have now. Each crossbar was drilled half way through using a carbide bit starting with a very small size and going through 3 more sizes up to 5/16" to make a nice round hole in one side of the Thule bar near each end. The Thule bars being only 50" is ideal because the T100 brackets are near enough to the ends of the Thule bars to hold a nut on the inside of the bar with a needle nose pliers. The finished roof rack only shows the head of the bolt onder the T100 bracket and the Thule crossbar caps fit perfectly. The look is clean.
I am contemplating changing the roof rack system to allow moveable crossbars by using the Thule 415 crossbars to OEM roof rack brackets. Thule claims these are sturdy and I went to REI to measure them. They can clamp to bars from about 3/4" x 3/4" to 40mm x 40mm. The 415 are decently strong, enough to hold anything I would put on the roof. "Only a real Thule would put that much stuff on the roof."
Here is what I will do:
Option 1.) Thule cross bars 78" mounted front to back by drilling the T100 7/16 mounting hole out to 1/2" and get stainless square nuts to slide inside the Thule bars then bolt down as before.
Option2.) Use either aluminum or stainless strut channel and their particular mounting arangements.
Option 3.) Use two on each side of stainless 3/4" x 3/4" square tube because it had rounded corners and will fill up the T100 mounting surface. Between the two 3/4"x3/4" bars at each T100 bracket bolt into both bars horizontally a solid piece of stainless with a tapped 7/16" hole in the center and bolt these on. This would provide a boltable slot all the way down the bars for easy homemade expediton rack or whatever I would want to bolt up there. The Thule 415 brackets would clamp nicely to the resulting 3/4" x 2" parallel bars and it would be quite strong.
Option 3a.) Same thing, but pay http://www.smallparts.com to make custom stainless brackets for bolting down the 3/4"x3/4" bars next to each other. Would anyone be interested in buying such custom brackets for bolting down side by side two 3/4"x3/4" square stainless bars with a maximum dimension of 2.25"x2.25"x3x4" such that they could be used one on top of each T100 bracket and also be used opposite each other to clamp to the 3/4"x3/4" bars away from the T100 brackets?
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