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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    It's true there are no more new Troopers, but you can still buy a used one. That same poor resale value that worked against you during that lease, will work in your favor when buying a used, late-model Trooper.

    You said 1998 SLX - is that a typo? I thought Acura stopped selling the SLX after the 1997 model year.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    paisan, I was looking at your site the other day and didn't see anything on how to change plugs on the 1998+ Troopers. Do you have anything like that buried on your site somewhere?
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    While my wife was sleeping last night, I snuck into the garage to sneak another peak at the coil packs and spark plugs. No, I didn't leave a screwdriver in the engine bay this time, but I did run into another problem.

    First 2 coil packs, on passenger side, came off no problem. No oil in the well down to the plug or around the plug. All I could see down the well was shiny silver metal and the plug itself. Good sign, I thought.

    Problem removing the 3rd coil pack on passenger side, nearest the cabin. Removed connector, unscrewed coil pack. When tugging on the coil pack to get the long tube to release from the plug, the coil pack broke away from the tube. So in my hand I had the coil pack with a little black rubber and a small spring sticking out of the hole in the end. The rubber boot and long tube had stayed down in the well.

    I fussed with it for a few minutes but couldn't figure out how to get enough grip on the boot to remove it and the tube. I ended up putting the coil pack back on and drove the truck 3 miles. All seemed fine. It looks like I haven't done any damage, but now I don't know how to get the boot and tube out of that cylinder.

    Any suggestions? I was thinking about just taking it to a shop and letting them change the plugs and deal with this when they see it. It's a waste of $80-90, though, since you can do the job yourself for $12-25 depending on which plugs you use. It's frustrating and embarrassing to think that I probably lack the skill to change the plugs on a vehicle, when it's such a simple procedure on this truck.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Spent about 10 minutes looking for this last night with no success. The illustration in the owners manual didn't help. I know it's on the driver side. Also, it's on the front driveline but I'm not quite sure what that means.

    Can anybody point this novice in the right direction?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    But if you want to write one up... :)

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Does it sound like I can write one up? I can't even manage to check the stupid plugs without screwing something up! Any suggestions about what to do with the separated coil pack/boot?
  • serranoserrano Posts: 107
    Go to the front of the truck (looking toward the back of the truck) and find the front differential. It's the big round pumpkin-looking thing that's a little left of center. The differential should have round steel axle housings coming out of both sides that lead to the half-shafts and eventually to the front wheels. If you look to the right of the differential, you will see the SOTF unit integrated into the tube leading to the left halfshaft (but you will be looking to the right of the differential). It has a protective skid plate over it. It's located just in front of the oil pan.

    Does that help?

    Tom
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I believe the one by the brake booster needs severel elbows to get it out properly...

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    As near as I can figure, the SOTF diagram in the 99 owner's manual was made as if the vehicle is standing on the front bumper. If your 98 is the same I can understand your confusion.
    To add to serrano's finding hints, go to the front of the vehicle. Bend down so you are staring straight ahead at the engine oil drain plug. Now look a couple of inches to the right. Next come forward of that position about 4". That boxy thing right there on the shaft is the SOTF. The fill plug is also the drain plug as best I could determine. You access it from the back.

    Your coil pack problem is a new one on me. I guess your experience is a heads up for all of us to be careful when removing the coil pack.
    As to what to do now, you might call the dealer and see if they individually sell the pack AND the boot/tube. If so that might confirm that you haven't done any real damage/give you an idea of the upside dollar cost of this situation.
    You sure don't want to make the situation worse, afterall you still seem to run ok. Then again at some point you will have to change the plugs. Do you have enough room to get a good bite with some long needle nose pliers (e.g. one side of the pliers inside the tube the other outside)? If so you might try them and use a gentle but firm twisiting (kind of like you are trying to unscrew it)/pulling motion. I wouldn't twist/pull too hard as you might break the boot tube. If you can inexpensively buy an individual boot tube that might not be such a problem. However if you have to buy the coil pack that could be a rather expensive whoops. Just my well intentioned but totally untested advise. User discretion is highly advised.

    I found the best way to get the plug by the brake booster is to use 2 half-the-required-length extensions (I think I read this technique here way back when). Namely, feed in the spark plug socket attached to 1 extension. Then add on the second extension and then wrench loose. Pull out far enough to grab the first extension. Remove the last extension while holding the first extension. Then pull out the first extension attached to the socket holding the plug.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    I appreciate it. Just printed them out and will take another look for the SOTF under the truck as soon as time permits.

    Re: coil pack/spark plug - Did a 50-mile round trip tonight, mostly 70mph freeway cruising, and the truck ran fine. So I'm thinking/hoping that, though the boot/coil pack may not be intended to come apart, it still functions once it has been pieced back together (like I did). Therefore, I have done no damage? A call to St. Charles, as breakor suggested, will probably be enlightening re: whether the parts are sold individually.

    There is enough room to play around with a needle-nose pliers. I may try that but was worried about trying it the other day - didn't want to make things any worse than they are.

    breakor, what is the 'required length' extension - 10"? 12"? I've seen those lengths at Sears, as well as 6", 3", and 1.5". Don't recall any 5" though.
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    IIRC, I used a couple of 6" extensions. Assuming my memory is correct, and if you are buying such tools, I suggest you go with a 6" and two 3" ones for future flexibility on other jobs.

    Again, be careful with the pliers and your removal. You don't want to grip too hard either as that might break the tube boot.

    You might want to try and find someone else who is changing plugs and do an install fest. Or, at least some real world experience on how hard to reinstall the plus, tips to not cross thread, etc. before you tackle this job. It just seems that you are cursed when it comes to repair lately and could use such hands-on teaching help.
  • ostazostaz Posts: 80
    When I bought my truck, it had almost new (<200 miles) Michllin 245x70x16 (standard stock size) in the front. Now, I need to replace the back (the front is still in very good shape, only 1500 miles on tires), and I like a few tires in the 255x70x16 size with more aggressive tread pattern for snow and ice. Would this create a problem other than I won't be able to rotate the tires?

    Thanks
    Sam
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I wouldn't. 255/70's are close to the stock size, but still some difference that could cause a problem. My fronts get cupped more and more as time for rotation nears. I don't think you can go more than 10K without needing to rotate.

    With 1500 on the front, it is a good idea to only do 2 and not all 4 because the new ones will catch up very quickly.
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    1998 Trooper S 4x4 SOTF (not relevant really, but thought I'd disclose everything). Have a new sound. Thought it was belts, but stuck my head under the hood and it doesn't seem to be. I suspect an intake manifold gasket, but did a search and the previously mentioned symptoms don't seem to fit. It's a whistle that happens mostly when cold (actually been in the 20's here in Houston the last few mornings) is rev related, and seems to go away when warm. I have no idle or stalling problems. Any ideas? I'm waiting until 75k miles to do the timing belt, etc. I'm at 68k mile right now.

    Jim
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I had a rattle under 40 degrees that seemed to go away when warm in my 1999. It was from condensation in fuel lines? I guess? A tank of dry gas and I haven't had it since.

    My point is that it could be something simple? The windshield gasket shrinkiing in the cold and causing a whistle? Maybe just a loose belt?
  • Could it be alternator noise? I had a car that would whine more noticeably when the alternator was heavily loaded such as when charging just after a cold start. Cars seem to do many spooky things when it's very cold, especially if you're paying close attention.
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    gas, belts or electrical. Actually sounds like someone whistling fairly loudly further into the engine bay than the belts. Kinda underneath the big plastic cover, maybe to the driver's side a little. Thanks for the input. Any other thoughts?

    Jim
  • cwp2cwp2 Posts: 19
    I am running the original Bridgestone 245/70R16 with 20K miles. Went to Discount Tire this weekend because the cupping was so noticeable and the tire noise was getting louder. He says there is not much you can do, other than cross rotate and hope it will wear down. Anyone know of a method to remove the cupped edge?
    I bought my Trooper 3 months ago, so I don't know how well they were rotated beforehand.
    FYI - Paid $14,500 for a loaded LS with 19k miles. Thought it was a pretty good deal. What do you think?
  • ostazostaz Posts: 80
    What year and which color was it?
  • cwp2cwp2 Posts: 19
    oops. Forgot to say it is a 2000 white LS w/tubes, hitch, bug guard, sunroof.
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    I really doubt your tires cupped because of poor rotation practices. Nor will rotation now cure the problem. Like the shop said at most it might help you live with it.

    Usually cupping is caused by a bad shock, wheel imbalance or tire imperfections.
  • cwp2cwp2 Posts: 19
    Breakor - Probably hard to prove tire imperfections at this point. I guess a balance and looking into shocks is the next step. What type of shock works best for a smooth ride on the highway? I probably have 20K miles left on these tires so I will have them for a couple of more years, unless the problem gets unbearable.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    I don't know if you could have done better, but look at it this way: you got WAY MORE truck than your < $15k could have bought in any other make/model. A 2000 LS (4WD, I presume) with 19k miles is nearly new, and has many thousands of enjoyable, trouble-free miles ahead of it. Nice acquisition.
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    If you are considering different size rear tires than front - don't do it. It might wreck your TOD unit. And, if you have a flat on the rear axle, and your spare doesn't match size, you could fry your limited slip differential. 4WD vehicle need all 5 tires to be the same size.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    May not be the right term. My fronts get the inside squares on the tires worn more on the back than front, kind of tapered. A few 100 miles on the back and they straighten out. I have asked about it, and it seems normal and common.
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    The shock diagnosis should be relatively simple. Do you bounce all over the place or have liquid stains on them indicating leaking? If so they are shot. FWIW I am very happy with my Rancho 9000s. Many people here have replaced their "good" OEM shocks with these.

    If you have a shimmy or vibration even on smooth roads (rather than bounce) that is likely a tire balance issue.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Just spent 10 minutes talking with Merlin from St. Charles Isuzu. Coil pack is sold as a single unit - coil pack/boot/tube all together. The boot/tube is not sold separately. List price $108.49. St Charles' price $92.22. I could have gotten the plugs changed for less than that!

    Actually, there's a different coil pack for cylinder #6. Not sure which one that is, but the price is the same as for #1-5.

    The problem is, I'm torn on whether to actually replace the coil pack. It sounds like it's not supposed to come apart like mine did, but it fit back together fine and the truck is running fine. I'm tempted to take it to a shop and see if they even say anything when they pull that one off and it comes apart on them. Do you think they'd just pull the tube/boot out with pliers, change the plugs, put it back together and not say anything - thinking either that there's no problem, or that they broke it and didn't want to fess up to it? Or would they tell me it came apart and advise me it needs to be replaced - at my cost or theirs?
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Twist or pull straight out? I was pulling straight out and found that quite a bit more pressure was needed on the first 2 than I would have expected. Would it be easier/safer to pull down by the boot, assuming one could get sufficient grip, instead of pulling from the coil pack itself?
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    In general, I find it good practice to twist a little when pulling to remove something. If you have room to also grab the boot when removing the coil pack that sounds like a good idea to me.

    As to what to do with the problem one, I certainly don't have a definitive answer. Certainly the top of the plug must be firmly connected to the wiring in the coil pack. The boot should also be in good enough condition and orientation to seal out dirt and moisture. If you have those conditions you should be fine. If not then get a new assembly. Alternatively you might also check for a used coil pack. If you can pick up a good one for $20 or $30 that might be an acceptable option.

    The shop route also offers some benefits. While I doubt they will pay for any existing problem they should be in a position to know if the separated boot/pack is truly a problem. And they should not cross thread the plugs. Again this is a real possibilty that can cost some major dollars.
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