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Isuzu Trooper

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  • Hi all,

    I'm considering purchasing a 99 Trooper with Performance Package (TOD / sunroof / CD) - exterior condition is very good - interior pretty good with some minor damage in the cargo area. Car had one owner and CARFAX reports no problems. Vehicle has 41,420 miles. Sticker price is $15K which is riduculous; internet price is $13 which I also think is riduculous. I'm not willing to pay over $11,500.

    I'm hesitant to purchase used cars and haven't since my first one out of high school (71' Mercury Capri - need I say more - the shifter actually came off in my hand one time).

    I plan to take it to my mechanic since I know absolutely nothing and have a good amount of confidence in their work and prices.

    Do you think $11,500 would be a fair price. What should I have a mechanic look for? Any concerns / advice regarding this model year?

    Thanks,

    Susan
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    13K isn't bad at all IMHO. That's very low milage and barely broken in on a $30K truck.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Things to check...
    -battery, mine just went
    -exhaust, if it was used for offroad it is possible that something is rusted out (my catalytic converter just went, covered under warranty)
    -intake manifold gasket?-surging idle could be a symptom, common that some 99s need this replaced
    -brakes, they last for a long time on troopers, at 41K it might need them replaced, $500 job.
    -check 4wd operation - alot of people don't ever use it, which could cause some malfunction over time
    -ask about oil consumption, it is common for this motor 3.5L to burn 1 Qt per 1000-1500 miles, it is also common that it burns less, but something to know going into it.
    I can't think of anything else, but anything the first owner can get fixed under warranty would be good for you, since I am not sure what transfers over if anything.
  • mbednorzmbednorz Posts: 63
    IMHO $11.5k would be a good price, maybe even $12.5k for a clean, 1-owner LS with performance package and 41k. (I just bought an 01 S 2WD w/ 22k miles for $14.5k)

    sbcooke's list is a good one. I would also plan to replace the shocks, if they haven't been upgraded already (budget around $150-200 for good ones). Lots of good postings on those in this forum.

    Ask for any and all maintenance records that you can get. At 41k you really want to know what's already been done to the car. If the owner doesn't have records, ask if most of the work was done at one particular shop. Almost all shops have computer records on the cars they service regularly, and the owner can request the info. Share that info with your mechanic!

    Good hunting!
  • Thanks for the info and advice. I'm going to give it a closer look and take a test drive today. If I still like it, I'll take it to a mechanic later in the week for a check-up.

    Thanks again,
    Susan
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I would definitely check the brakes. It is a $500 job due to repacking the front hubs/resurfacing the rotors. Not a problem if it needs it, but possibly a good bargaining chip.
  • Thanks for the info and advice. I'm going to give it a closer look and take a test drive today. If I still like it, I'll take it to a mechanic later in the week for a check-up.

    Thanks again,
    Susan
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I beg to differ. @ 40K miles you are looking at pads at most which is about a $200 job if you get it done at a shop, <$100 if you do it yourself. Rotors should not need resurfacing at that low milage.

    It is a good bargaining chip to throw in the $500 job though.

    -mike
  • Thanks for the info and advice. I'm going to give it a closer look and take a test drive today. If I still like it, I'll take it to a mechanic later in the week for a check-up.

    Thanks again,
    Susan
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    That was roughly what the cost was to get mine replaced at 31K. And the price I had quoted by several shops...actually about $440. I agree that you can probably just do the pads, however doing it "by the book" includes removing and resurfacing the rotors (and thus a front hub repack).
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Some shops have an on-car lathe and don't have to remove the rotors to resurface them, FWIW.

    -juice
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    #7471 - "my catalytic converter just went, covered under warranty" You mentioned awhile back that your gas mileage was going down, did this help fix it? I noticed a small rattle in that area recently, almost as if the core has cracked or something. I also checked my warranty, it expired at 70k aargh! Thanks in advance.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    In fact the better resurfacing jobs are done by on-car resurfacing of the rotors IMHO. But I never resurface rotors, if i'm gonna go through the hassle of resurfacing, i'll just replace em for ~$35-40/each.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Catalytic converter? It didn't improve with replacement. However it may just be bad for local driving. I am getting about 12 back and forth to work, which is about 4 miles. I got 17 on an extended trip the other day.

    I looked into resurfacing on the truck, those shops were about the same price...they charged for the ability to do it on the vehicle. I was quoted approximately $190 for the rears and about $250 for the fronts at multiple shops, both on the truck and removal...But hey, if people can get it cheaper, I want to know where.
  • wildbucwildbuc Posts: 88
    What this all about? Nearly every car I've owned has gone 90K before there is a need to replace pads. My plan now is wait until about 75K and then have the pads replaced and bearings greased. Right or Wrong? By the way, if the 99 Trooper is in good condition, it is a great price at $15K. I honestly wouldn't sell mine for less than 22K.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Depends on your driving conditions. I did my rear rotors and all 4 pads when I hit ~35K miles. I do a lot of towing, a lot of high-speed braking, and a lot of bumper to bumper traffic. If I did mostly highway driving I guess I could go 80K miles on one set.

    -mike
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    pulling a 21' boat back this weekend. Gonna put the Trooper to good use! When I get back, I'll be near 75k miles. So, again, can someone list the things they WOULD have the dealer do, you know the piecemeal stuff as opposed to the full 75k mile tune which seems to be a waste of some money? Timing belt, differential fluids, what else? Bearing repack?

    Jim
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    the rear differential before the long towing trip. I might even change the oil again in Denver to make sure it is very clean for the towing. You will be spending a lot of time high in the RPMs going up and engine braking down the mountains.
    ..
    And check the brakes carefully on the Trooper and the boat. Boat brakes are notorious for not working very well or at all.
    ..
    A new clean air filter or K&N high flow air filter will help your power in the thin mountain air.
    ..
    My Trooper makes the oil get dirty much quicker when towing. The rear differential will get a heavy workout with all the weight of the Trooper and the boat pushing and pulling on it.
    ..
    If you can get it done I think it would be much better to do your entire 75K maintenance or the portions that you will eventually do before the trip, just to make sure the trip is a success.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    I would go for the 99 Performance Package Trooper at that small difference. The S model in 99 didn't have adjustable seats up front. The Perf. Pkg. has electric adjustable, which gives the driver many options on seating position. This makes a lot of difference in driving comfort over long distances. Along with the other benefits mentioned, it would be a 'no brainer' to upgrade. I'm not sure I wouldn't go all the way to an 02' model if its available though. They are selling at ridiculous prices now adays.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    As others have said, I wouldn't sell my 99' Performance Trooper for $11.5K. BUT, if you plan to buy a Trooper, have the idea of keeping it long term. Even at the low prices today, it isn't likely the resale value will ever change. Plan to keep it until its worn out and you will more than get your moneys worth. These are FINE vehicles.
  • savvas_esavvas_e Posts: 347
    Mine just came back from a 60000km (approx 35000 mile) service yesterday.

    According to the workshop notes, the brake linings on all 4 wheels are at 50% wear. So it looks like I'll get some good life out of them.

    Incidentally...about a year ago, I posted a message about a hard shifting transmission. Mine started doing that again about two weeks ago. They found a few dirty electrical connections, and a blown brake light bulb. I immediately recalled Paisan having the same problems, but it was due to a blown brake light fuse on his Trooper.

    Just an interesting point to keep in mind.
  • chporterchporter Posts: 8
    Anybody seen this one: my 99 Trooper (76K miles) four wheel drive system won't activate on the fly. If I push the 4WD button, stopped or moving, while the engine is running, the TOD display will blink continuously and not come up in 4WD. BUT, if I push the TOD button before I start the engine, it will come up in 4WD and perform perfectly. Sometimes I am able to quickly turn off the motor, hit the TOD button, restart the engine and have it come up in 4WD. Other times that doesn't work and it seems to need to need to be turned off a bit longer to have the engine-off gambit work. Heat related?? I've done the ECU reset attempt by leaving the battery unhooked overnight, btw. Didn't work. Any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks,
    Craig
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Hmmm...a few ideas. You have addressed the electrical problem? You have unhooked the battery? Is there a reset button near the fuse box?

    It could be the actuator, I believe the unit is vacuum activated? Maybe a hose is loose, or the unit itself is going? Perhaps it works on startup because there is a rush of pressure to the actuator?

    Or is it just a display problem? Maybe it is working, but not displaying properly? I think a trip to a dealership is required.
  • chporterchporter Posts: 8
    Hmmm, I like the vacuum loss idea. I know it's not the display because on an icy day I was able to establish that the 4WD wasn't coming on just by driving around the neighborhood. Any ideas on TOD reset or fuse-related gremlins?

    Anyone got a schematic or description of the vacuum system re: TOD? My dealership seems like such a ripoff -- I always feel scammed after going in there...I'll take it in eventually but would like to be armed with a few more facts!

    Thanks.

    Craig
  • psucommopsucommo Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Isuzu Trooper with the original tires, size 245/70/16. Its time to replace them and I would like to go up a size to 255/70/16. I've spoken with several tire dealers and the dealership, and I get conflicting responses as to whether this will affect the odometer, ABS, etc. Anyone ever put this size tire on the trooper and have any problems?
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    255/70s won't effect anything too much. I run 265/70s. No problem. The odometer is off by 1.077%, not a big deal, I just have to remember to multiply by that when figuring out mileage. Speed? I have passed by one of those police MPH signs and my speedo was very close...38 mph was slightly under 40. It isn't accurate enough to begin with for me to worry about it. ABS and other functions are pretty much unaffected, you may notice a little powerloss, maybe. You may not be able to notice a difference with 255s.

    Tirerack.com has a lot of good information. As well as some tire websites offer actual tire size specs. A 255/70 from one manufacturer may be the same as a 245/70 from somewhere else.

    Anyway, if you want to upgrade your tires go for it, I have read that 285s can be used on a stock setup. My 265s fit perfectly and don't come close to rubbing even when offroad and the suspension is flexed to its limit.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Does 4wd Low still work?

    I read through those 2 other links, and it seems like isolating those vacuum switches could be the culprit?

    I wonder about 4wd low because if this ever occurs offroading, would you still be able to use Low to get home or until you get to a dealership to fix it?
  • chporterchporter Posts: 8
    Thanks for the links. It's looking more and more like the vacuum problem.

    As to 4WD LO, that will also not engage, which I'd think also points toward a vacuum problem. As soon as it gets a bit warmer here in southeast Michigan I'm going to crawl around under there for a look.

    Craig
  • psucommopsucommo Posts: 2
    sbcooke, thanks for the info, its greatly appreciated. I'll definitely check out tirerack's site for further info. Who knows, I might just go up to the 265/70. Thanks again.
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