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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    Oil consumption, maybe your rings have not seated all the way yet, so the engine burns oil from new. Can anyone suggest a way to make sure the rings are seated or check for it?
    ..
    On Isuzu industrial engines it is suggested to run them at 80% to 100% max load to break in the rings. Would pulling a trailer over a mountain 4000 to 5500 RPM break in the rings?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Mostly due to my own fault, not any of the vehicle itself. I push mine to the limit daily.

    If you wanted Toyota quality, you would have paid 15K more for your vehicle. For the 25K I paid for mine I could not find any vehicle in the same class that will run for over 200K miles heck a smaller 4-runner at the time was way way more money.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    In snow I find it to be way way better. The only place I have found TOD not to exceed 4-low is in soft sand, and in situations where there simply wasn't enough torque and needed the extra torque.

    Last time some guys and I were debating TOD @ Uwharrie, so as an act of faith in TOD I Swore I'd do the whole weekend in TOD. Sure enough I did every trail, including some moderately difficult ones in TOD.

    I like the pulsing when I'm stuck in snow, cause I would just spin my wheels in 4-low, in TOD it applies the power, similar to rocking the car back and forth but you just gas it and it automatically pulses it in and out.

    Just my preference though.

    -mike
  • uniconunicon Posts: 18
    I was getting ready to leave for a x-country trip from my old house in Virginia and decided to rotate my 99 Trooper's tires. I didn't realize right-off that the hub housings were different sizes between the front and rear tires (have to have a small socket to remove them),
    so I called roadside assistance. They sent some local guy out there and he pointed it out and then rotated all 4 tires. I tipped him cause it was really hot. No charge. Only time I used it before warranty ran out.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Well on my second trip to the dealer, they found that it was the intake manifold gasket. I expressed my displeasure that I specifically asked them to check that before and that they probably caused it when they replaced my thermostat in January. it hasn't idled quite right since that repair.

    After some negotiating, I managed to get a free rental for the weekend. I am not happy at the quality of the work at this place. At least they came through on the loaner...which I think is fair since they stranded me 49 mintues from home. It is a Ford Taurus with 35K on it. It rattles, shimmies and wobbles pretty bad. Makes me appreciate my Trooper (when it runs) so much more.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I do a lot of sand driving in the summer. TOD does really well in the light stuff, and will get you through the deep stuff too. When it gets deep I put it in 4 low.

    A few things I have noticed. TOD doesn't dig as much, and the front stays more on top of the sand, allowing you to keep going. TOD though slips/clunks in the deep sand. There is a cyclicle clunking when you are chugging through deep sand and it is 100% activated. I think it is the clutch slipping since it doesn't do this in snow. It doesn't clunk in normal sand, just when there is a lot of resistance...a little more gas usually fixes it.

    4 low digs more, so there is a little more tire spin to keep moving. Though I usually pick 4 low for most situations because it is that much more powerful.
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    "My 2002 Trooper has been burning oil (half a quart here and there) since day one (17 miles) on regular gas. Therefore, I don't think it's carbon deposits I could blame it on :-("

    Of course the flaw in the logic of your quote above is that octane is only ONE factor in carbon formation. In addition to the ones already noted (e.g. the condition of your oil, pcv and egr) your slow speeds, especially if done for short trips, can be another.

    As to checking the rings, I assume a wet compression check compared to a dry one would be the way to go.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    If your vehicle is still new and less than 750 miles on it, you can help yourself on beating that oil usage issue.

    Check out 'break-in' on a word search. The advice there is...in the first 500 or so miles, rev the enginer hard and let it come to a low RPM quickly afterward. Do this on a continuing basis while the engine is still new. It allows the rings to swirl around and provide more even hardening of the cylinder walls as the engine wears in. Worked GREAT for my 2001 Trooper! Now I'm doing the same on a rebuilt engine on my 1988 Trooper.

    Yep, we breathed new life into the 88'. I thought several weeks ago that I'd let it go and replace it, but after searching for a replacement, I decided to spend about $1700 to get this baby back on the road. It is running like a top so far, but I do have an oil leak that has to be resolved. It's in the shop now being investigated. Maybe we can squeeze another 15 years of service out of her.
  • pinoy99pinoy99 Posts: 79
    is on again, 3 days after the service. No bouncing idle so the IMG is not the problem. I really wonder if they cleaned the valve and/or the egr tube. I'll bet that the code will point to the EGR system.
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    My CEL is on too. Last week I cleared codes by disconnecting the battery and the CEL came on again...drivability is fine, so I haven't gotten to the dealer yet to have it checked out.
  • bstone3bstone3 Posts: 97
    On my 2001 LS it had 430 miles on it when delivered as new - the salesman mentioned that a group of salesmen went to a training seminar in Atlanta and they took my LS before I bought it - now I figured a bunch of salesman going this roundtrip distance on the interstate probably didn't drive 55 mph - so the engine got broke in booking down the freeway - I change out the Mobil 1 every 5k miles and it may be 1/4 quart low at that point. But I agree - there seems to be an issue as to why some use oil and others don't.

    On another point I checked with my tire guys at NTB about repacking the front wheel bearings - the mechanic said don't sweat it until you do the brakes and they include repacking in their front break service price when the time comes ($169). I may not wait that long since most of the mileage on my Trooper is highway and the breaks could go a long time before needing service. He said they would repack for $69 - the repack is very basic work on the Trooper - when I mentioned that the local Isuzu service department wanted $250 he shook is head.

    At 39K miles I have been to the dealer once to replace the fly by wire throttle sensor - check engine light came on even though there was no indication of a problem. The Trooper is a fine vehicle even though I'd kill for a tranmission dip stick.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I got a CEL a month ago with a rough idle. I drove it for 3 weeks before the idle bounce occurred. Then they still didn't think it was the IMG until the gasket really blew out. They said it was the upper IMG not the lower IMG? I guess there is one near the fuel distribution and one near the cylinders?

    Is there anyway to fix this on the road? Could you spread gasket sealer around the effected area to temporarily seal it? I want to know how to fix this while on a vacation or something?
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    Is there an Accura dealer near you? They sold a rebadged Trooper for a couple of years. They might have the wherewithal to service your Trooper. I know my Buddy with his AccuTrooper is very happy with the Accura dealer.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Well my trooper should be fixed now. Service isn't a problem, I have a shop near me that can do the work...it is the warranty work that has been problematic for me. If I want to pay out of pocket I am pretty sure I can get things fixed just about anywhere.
  • On the 2WD version is front bearing repacking necessary as in these discussions I'm seeing? I presume most have the 4WD version. Not sure if the discussions are 4WD related or all vehicles.

    Also FWIW oil consumption on my '02 with 9,000 miles is NIL, fortunately. Wonder why all the different experiences - I gave it an easy break-in period, but other than that ...

    Thanks.
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    "The flaw in my logic" could have resulted from your flawed assumptions. I usually drive on highways (25 miles each way), my cruising speed is about 75MPH (2700 RPM), and following my recent 700-mile trip I almost lost a quart. Maybe my long trips are now to blame? Maybe we could just admit that Holy Isuzu could have produced an engine or two that just burns oil right out of the factory and for no reason that is beyond its owner's control? I think I'd go with the latter since my other cars (all Japanese including one that is 12 years old w/ 150K miles on the clock) don't burn oil or have any other problems and are all driven in similar conditions.

    Like I said before, any oil burning in a new car (excluding towing) is very irritating but I'll have to live with it. As you can imagine it is difficult to explain to my petite, pregnant wife that she has to lift the hood of the Trooper (btw. she can't) and check oil on every occasion she gets, so, I don’t share that information with her and drive the truck myself.
     

    "Of course the flaw in the logic of your quote above is that octane is only ONE factor in carbon formation. In addition to the ones already noted (e.g. the condition of your oil, pcv and egr) your slow speeds, especially if done for short trips, can be another."
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    On this one, I'm with you. It's not fun to think about, and it's easy to justify away, but modern engines shouldn't use oil to any significant degree.

    I like my Trooper a lot, enough to call me an enthusiast. But reports of engines that burn oil are disheartening.

    On the other hand, my neighbor's Toyota Sienna (a few months older than my wife's Sienna) just gave it up with less than 40K on the clock. Oil sludging. No, he doesn't change his oil frequently enough: I do mine every 5K with synth. Even a company like Toyota can make an engine that is less than exemplary.
  • jrr2kjrr2k Posts: 35
    I lose 1/2 quart between 4000 mile oil changes on my new 02 Troop. Big deal, total cost $.44!
    It could be worse....
    My Volkswagon needs oil between changes. It travels from the container, thru the crankcase, to the cardboard on my garage floor.:(

    Kevin's right no engine is flawless, so far Isuzu's is pretty solid.

    Cracovian - Don't worry about a thing, you can check the oil for your wife in the evenings. Driving with a quart low on short trips won't do any damage. (Disclaimer...)
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    1/2 a quart every 5K wouldn't worry me either. But some folks talk about a quart every 1K during highway driving.

    That's a lot of oil.
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    As far as Volkswagens go I keep seeing reports that new New Beetles consume a lot more oil than any Isuzu would.

    I think about getting the beetle for my wife (since it's the only car that she ever wanted) but that outdated gas engine is just scary - diesels are not any better either... and for what price (!) Troopers cost less...
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I just put it in when I end a 1000 mile trip. No muss no fuss. Very simple.

    Now I'll let you know, I drive my truck at 80+mph sometimes towing a 1500-5000lb trailer. I pretty much squeeze every ounce of performance out of my truck 95% of the time. So 1Q ever 1000 miles for me is not a problem.

    I wouldn't let it comsume me.

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    You're right I did make an assumption about your driving habits based on this quote from you - "I also drive like an old man and I doubt the truck knows what its power hides over 2700 RPMs".

    Now your old man style has been clarified to mean -"I usually drive on highways (25 miles each way), my cruising speed is about 75MPH (2700 RPM)". That is like no old man I know of unless or course you are in the left lane with your blinker on the whole trip :-).

    I readily admit the whole oil usage thing is frustrating and a mystery as there is clearly no definitive cause let alone cure. I still stand behind my theory that a dirty egr, pcv . . .etc. cannot help this situation. No doubt the factory too could be involved. But it does make me wonder how (let alone why) they could be assembling some engines and not others as oil burners all these years.

    Like I said I don't have the answer only some thoughts that others are more than free to disagree with.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Mine has burned 1Q every 1000 miles since day 1. Had it checked a few times, but no help from the dealers. I may try to have my local dealer start a test but not sure yet.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I got my truck back after having the IMG replaced. It runs much better now, however not 5 minutes after leaving the dealer, the CEL came on again. Now I have to make a 4th trip back to this place. I am not a very happy camper.

    I am trying to ramp up for a big family vacation, and car problems with a vehicle with 30K on it is quite frustrating. I realize these are relatively minor issues, but I have burned 12 personal hours on this and 1/2 a vacation day so far. I am going to have to burn another 1/2 vacation day this week. Very annoying. I am toying with getting rid of this truck...I really enjoy driving it, but I cannot have these kind of headaches.

    I need some quality time with my truck so I can once again feel good about owning it. If I have a problem on vacation I am pretty sure I will be dumping it.

    I think I know what happened. I got a CEL and they probably just assumed all the codes were related to the IMG and not real. So anything else like the EGR valve, solenoid, etc probably just got reset and thought to be caused by the other problem.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    That stinks.
  • bstone3bstone3 Posts: 97
    Burning 1 qt every 1000 miles since new is excessive - I'm from Montana where some of my trucks spent 4 straight months with 4 wheel drive engaged and that was just to get around town - not counting all the days spent in the mountains hunting and fishing - and Montana for a long time didn't have a speed limit - we just flew -rarely did I add a quart of oil to anything before changing. Why some Troopers use oil and some don't is perplexing - maybe you ought to have that test while the warranty is still in your pocket - goodluck. Is this an issue with Rodeo's too? = should be
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    For what it is worth...I have never really burned any oil, except for the initial 1000 miles? I had a rebuild at 18K...long story...but except for the first 1000 miles nothing. I have had other problems though.
  • jrr2kjrr2k Posts: 35
    I don't know much about the mechanical problems with the newer volkswagons, but I think that they are some of the hottests car styles on the road. The Passat has some nice lines. I don't think you'll ever go wrong getting your wife what she wants.
    :)

    I didn't realize that some of these Troopers burn 1 qt per 1000 miles! I know that a previous poster mentioned an aux. oil cooler helping. It might be worth trying.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    I saw a Passat next to a new Accord. While I'm not hot on that Honda school of styling, I had to admit the Passat looked dated.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    SOHC 3.2 didn't burn a quart during it's 120K miles I had it and that was with 5-10K change intervals on dino!

    Once I get more settled in at work, I'm gonna see about bringing it to the dealer about the oil problem. My biggest concern is that they'll pull the old 1Q/1000miles is within spec, and then they'll say "well you have the big [non-permissible content removed] bumper, bigger tires, trailer hitch, etc" so we won't cover it under warranty.

    -mike
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