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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • darcolinodarcolino Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Trooper S with almost 30K miles. I noticed at the end of last summer I started to stall every once in awhile. The problem always seemed to happen when 1) my a/c was on, 2) in the first 5 minutes of my drive, and 3) when I was slowing down.

    Now that summer is here again I brought it back to the dealer and everything checks out fine with the computers and they can't find a problem or recreate it.

    Any ideas?
  • cmunizcmuniz Posts: 604
    When I had my Trooper I USed a tire mounted rack and it worked great, easy on - easy off. I removed the tire cover to put the rack on, but that is easy to do once you get the technique down. I can't remember the brand, but I bought it a a bike store and it just fit over the top of the tire with very little effort. It was very stable. I now have a hitch mounted rack on my Axiom and it is more trouble to put on and take off than the tire mounted one on the Trooper. They both work equally well.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    The only problem is if you want to carry four bikes, they don't make those in tire mounted racks.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I feel your pain. I just went through the same issue with my dealer. With 30K on a 99 you probably drive as much as I do (which is mostly very short trips). It took a long highway trip to make the problem bad enough to find and multiple trips to the dealer to have them find the intake manifold gasket was bad. I had poor performance for about 6 months...stalling, gas mileage, etc. Good luck.

    I have 2 types of racks. A Thule roof rack with fork mount carriers for my Trooper and a hitch mounted Thule for my MDX. I prefer the roof rack over the hitch mount. When the bikes are attached on the roof rack they are on and don't move around. The only drawback is having to hoist the bikes up to the roof.

    I use the tilt back hitch mount for the MDX because it is hard to get bikes on top of any SUV and the MDX is my wife's car. The bikes move around a lot on the hitch mount and it is a pain to get in and out of the rear (even though the tilt feature is very easy).

    Outdoorsports.com carries a lot of different racks and is very affordable, if not the best pricing you can find on the web.
  • mpm12mpm12 Posts: 2
    I just bought a used Trooper S with 18k miles. I picked it up last night, and I love it! There is one question that I have for all of you. When I am in park, and I turn my air conditioning on, my rpm's increase and decrease erratically. Also, you can hear the engine almost stall, but then pick itself back up. Is this normal?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    Yes that is the A/C clutch kicking in and the engine computer speeding up the engine to make the A/C work better.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The computer increases the revs when the AC is on due to the extra load put on the system by the compressor. It should smooth out after a few seconds.

    -mike
  • peterismepeterisme Posts: 68
    I ordered Yokohama from tirerack.com. Saved $100 compared to those from tire dealers. they are pretty good. tirerack.com can ship the tires directly to the repairshop/garage you choose (they have a list of venders)
  • mpm12mpm12 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the responses! I know that the A/C will cause the engine to speed up, but it concerns me that after the increase in RPM, the engines slows way down almost to the point of it stalling.
  • savvas_esavvas_e Posts: 347
    kmcgirl.... In Australia the dealers are able to disable the security system for you. I imagine Isuzu dealers in the US should be able to do the same.

    However, it is all or nothing. I don't think they can tailor what works and what doesn't.
  • bstone3bstone3 Posts: 97
    Thanks - what size did you get and let us know what you think when you have them installed. I think I will go the same path if your report is positive. Also my 2001 does the same thing at startup with the air conditioner on - surges some but after 20 seconds or so it smooths out - but it is kind of irritating - sometimes I shut off the airconditioner until I back out of the garage.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    If you disable the stuff you're talking about, you pretty much don't have any conditions left that an alarm system would protect against.

    Why don't you just press the lock button on the driver door before you get out, then not press the lock button on the fob? You could still unlock with the fob, but I don't think the alarm would be set.
  • ryanendresryanendres Posts: 122
    There is an Isuzu tech (+20yrs) who has been posting answers to questions on another board for the past few weeks:

    . . . and here is his answer to oil useage on +98 . . .

    quote:
    ------------------------------------------------------------------ ---------------
     Most of the complaints of oil usage is on 98 up and I see alot of them. It's in the piston design they changed them in the 98 3.2 run. They only have 4 drain back holes on the oil ring. The new ones will have 10 or 11. Oil is building up and sticking in oil rings. Best way to keep from this doins this is keeping the EGR port clean and the pcv valve replaced. On the 95 3.2 I would say it couldn't hurt to have the egr port cleaned, injectors cleaned and the upper intake decarboned.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------ ---------------

    -Ryan
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    Wow. A straight answer. In context with the kinds of solutions folks on this board have come up with, it actually makes some sense.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    on my 88' LS Trooper. Anyone got any leads on places to purchase OEM seat covers at a reasonable price? I checked with St. Charles and you would think the things were made of GOLD. Checked on Ebay and nothing posted for several months. Any other possible sources for items like this?
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    This is the company that did the ARB project Trooper seats.
    http://www.classicsofttrim.com/oem.html
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I don't know if I completely follow the reasons and description.

    In 98 they were using a 3.5L I believe? Second, I have a '99 which has never burned oil except for the first 1000 miles (I did have a new short block put in 15K ago...long story) which says the design does work in some cases. Third, that description would seem like a limited quantity would be used up and then no more like during the break in period...people report 1/2 quart per 1000 miles? That seems like oil is blowing past the rings and getting burned in combustion, not stuck in the rings.

    The description may be accurate, but it doesn't quite make sense to me the way is it worded. Can someone who understands this put it differently to prove/dispove the theory?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Same engine essentially.

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    The theory makes sense to me.

    Namely, some of the oil that makes it to the side of the cylinder and is wiped down, cannot drain out the fouled oil ring drainback holes. When the piston lowers, that undrained oil is now in the combustion chamber. Some of this combusts and leaves. Some partially combusts and makes gunk that further fouls the oil ring and makes matters worse. The gunk that is wiped down and drains fouls the oil. Again, this makes things worse. Some of the gunk in the exhaust also likely heads towards the EGR plugging it, also making matters worse. I don't know if this could ever get so bad that the top (compression) rings would be effected and you get blowby.

    Then again I ain't no mechanic. Maybe my rationale is all wrong. If it is correct; in addition to the EGR, PCV etc. pointers noted in the original post you should change your oil sooner rather than later. This will prevent accumulation of junk that could also start the oil ring plugging process.

    Again just my $.02.
  • dmuzykadmuzyka Posts: 31
    My local trailer hitch folks put on a class II hitch, welded a removable extension, and sold me a 4 bike rack that swings down if I need access to the rear door. It all came to around $350, and I've had no problems with carrying 4 bikes on trips. You may want to check with your local experts to see what they offer.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Well I knew it would happen eventually...

    Trooper = 1
    Lexus LS450 = 0

    Coming to work today a lady in a brand new lexus on the phone is behind me goes to drive around me and clips my right rear bumper. She smacked right into the bumper protector. Pulls up next to me and say "I think I bumped you" I said "It's ok I'm sure it's ok" The front of her car was a tweaked, she'll need a new $700 bumper, once I got to work I checked it out, paint wasn't even taken off the trooper's bumper protector :)

    Yippie!

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Impressive story. Your bumper bar is a great thing for city driving.

    I had a very similar experience with a honda a few weeks back...except she hit the tow hook. No damage to me, new hood and grill for her.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Trooper $25K
    Bumper Bar $200
    Hole in Lexus LS430 Pricelss

    -mike
  • dmigeldmigel Posts: 15
    1. Just in stalled a Hidden Hitch. Had to take off the tow hook. Has anyone considered using some longer bolds and putting the tow hook back on under the hitch (in the same location)?

    2. Paisan, you will most certainly lead to the sale of a few bumper bars. I looked at independant4x.com, but couldn't find yours. Where exactly is it, or did you customize.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    My bar was a custom one that Matt made for me with 2x4 steel tubing v. 2x2 tubing used on the std. one.

    Drop an e-mail to matt and tell him that you are interested in a bar like mine, and I'm sure he'll hook you up on it.

    On the hidden hitch, I'm definitely contemplating putting a towhook back in the rear with a longer bolt. I just have been too lazy to do it. It's a PITA to put a towhook through the pin of the reciever sometimes.

    -mike
  • kmcgirlkmcgirl Posts: 8
    Thanks for the ideas. I will approach a dealer to see if they can de-activate the security, but still allow the lock / unlock feature to remain.

    Tkevinblanc - My problems arise when 2 year gets in the truck to play, I roll windows down, but once you reach inside the window to unlock the door, alarm!! Not a big a deal just inconvenient if I have to go inside and find the FOB.

     
    -Kevin
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    Been there... but I believe if you lock it from the driver door, the alarm doesn't get set, which is the same as not having an alarm, right? I mean if you disable that feature, you just don't have an alarm, because that's how a thief will get in: break a window, lift the door lock... open door and climb inside.

    The FOB will still unlock the doors.

    Well, anyway. It's just a thought.
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Posts: 107
    That makes sense. One would think that synthetic wouldn't disappear like dino because it is thinner, goes back thru the rings easier and doesn't break down into goo.

    On a 96 Mazda 626 I owned I always put in a pint bottle of lifter cleaner right before an oil change. It isn't is harsh as motor flush and took care of lifter ticking. Maybe a product like that would help out the ring situation if it wasn't too bad.

    Maybe the solution is to use a real synthetic like Mobil-1. I have used it in both of my Isuzus since the first oil change.

    My Rodeo 3.2 uses about 1/2 quart every 3000 miles.
    My Amigo 2.2 could go 10000 miles on Mobil-1 and not use a drop.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    I think there are problems with the EGR port idea. For instance, a NEW engine isn't going to have fouling of the EGR port. This would take time to occur. The drain ports might be a real issue. He oughta know, if hes been in the biz that long. Still think the idea of breaking the engine 'hard', will help avoid the issue altogether. Anyone able to give testimony about the success of Mobile 1 not getting consumed like dino oil??
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