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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I would consider adding some shocks more suited for offroading...OME or Rancho seem to be the most popular.

    With a lead foot, don't expect better than 15 MPG around town. I get 10-13 in around town driving, my commute is under 5 miles which may lead to worse mileage, however mileage is poor in general. Though you will find the Trooper is quite responsive and fun to lead foot around as it feels very quick off the line.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Towed the car trailer down to WV and back this weekend. ~9-10mpg at 70-80mph with AC cranking. Moderate hills in PA, sometimes dropped to 55-60 then up to 80. Not too bad considering that the trailer weighs about 4500-5000lbs.

    -mike
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    Here is who I would ask:
    http://www.creechimports.com/contact.html
    ..
    I wonder if the 2.3 can bolt up to the 1.9's transmission.
    ..
    If changing the engine and transmission both, consider the newest 4cyl Isuzu engine, was that a 2.6L in 1991?
    ..
    Consider if changing the engine and transmission to go to the 2.8L 6cyl transmission or similar bolt pattern and get the 3.4L 6cyl instead of the 2.8L. People on this discussion and / or ITOG have talked about the 3.4L GM engine as a good one to bolt up in place of the 2.8L. GM engines and parts should cost a lot less than genuine Isizu because there are so many of them around in rebuilt form.
  • Bottom line up front: I am cheap!

    With that said, does anyone have or know where I can get a shop manual for my 93 Trooper for less than $30? I say less than $30 because that is how much I let this manual go for TWICE on Ebay - dumb me, I guess.

    Anybody got any suggestions?
  • serranoserrano Posts: 107
    Try eBay.

    {:)
  • R/T shocks by Tokico:

    http://www.tokicogasshocks.com

    Installed them on my 2002 Trooper S 4x4 about 2 months ago and have been giving them a work out here in the Colorado Mountains. I'm amazed how well they work off-road & on-road. Lots of control, no more wallowing and body lean is reduced. Makes my Trooper a joy to drive. They also work great on my 1990 2wd. Mazda PU. Shop around on the web, they are priced a lot lower then OME and Rancho.
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    I got a letter from the dealer that did my 30k & 60k maintenance in the Pacific N.W.

    "This dealership has been selected as a sight to conduct a special market test price and financing event, we are in desperate need to acquire several pre-owned Troopers before 8-24 in order to fulfill special used vehicle requests. Our records show you have one of the vehicles in need". Then it goes on to say bring the letter in, so we can make an offer to buy it back from you.

    If nothing else, you gotta give the sales guys credit for being creative in their marketing.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    Ask them about it on the phone, if they give out information then they might want to buy used Troopers, if not, then they definately only want to get you to visit.
  • chaser1chaser1 Posts: 20
    sbcooke/trooper_dude - thanks for the tips! Know from previous experience how effective and the inherent quality built into OME systems - but PRICEY! Will definitely check out Trekmaster. Any throttle body spacers or the like available to improve performance - other than just getting a K&N?
    Also, does anyone make a class III hitch for the FRONT of the Trooper? Did this with all my Jeeps -very effective, and allows one to winch from either end with a multi-mount.

    Again - any advice/suggestions are genuinely appreciated!
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Has come down in price recently. $60/each for springs and ~$65/shock.

    Haven't seen a front mounted hitch yet, but check out matt @ indy 4x.com link on my web page http://Isuzu-suvs.com

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I broke down and bought air-bags for the rear of the trooper. Should have em by friday. Trying to keep the rear from getting too low when loaded with the trailer.

    -mike
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    As it turns out, it was a clever marketing. However after digging a bit I found out they've decided to drop Isuzu as of 8/1. Basically, they went into the service history data base of existing customers, sending this letter to give former customers the opportunity to bail on the Isuzu line with them. The way it was explained to me, "Isuzu has shown us absolutely no reason to renew" (apparently it's very expensive and not worth the return on investment) and if you need warranty work done your up a creek. The closest dealer is 160 miles away, which will be a major pain for the locals, due to mountain passes covered in snow 5 months of the year. That's one of the reasons for sending it out, plus the opportunity to sell you something new.

    Their seems to be a trend with the dealerships dropping the product line. Just speculation, but it seems like back in 2000, Isuzu convinced the dealers to renew with the prospect of new products such as the Axiom, which had dismal sales figures. It will be interesting to see if more dealers up North give it up also.
  • schweikbschweikb Posts: 111
    I have a 1998 Trooper S Automatic with Part-Time (non TOD) 4WD (105K miles). When I turn the ignition on and the vehicle is in 2WD mode, the 4WD indicator light stays on like the manual says it should. But, once I start the engine instead of the light going off, it starts flashing (like when you disengage from 4WD to 2WD).
    When I push the button to engage 4WD the light goes steady and the vehicle feels and responds like it is in 4WD. Then when I push the button to disengage 4WD, the indicator light starts flashing and continues to do so as long as the engine is running, even though it feels like 4WD has disengaged.
    About a week ago I started smelling something like burning plastic when the engine was running. Then that smell went away and the flashing 4WD light began. I am wondering if there is a link. Was a relay or sensor burning out and it is now finally dead?
    Any help or ideas will be appreciated.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    My guess is that the part that disengages/engages the front axle is shot. Happens often on 4wd vehicles if they haven't been engaged/disengaged for long periods of time. I think it's about a $400 fix IIRC.

    -mike
  • schweikbschweikb Posts: 111
    Thanks.

    However, since the 4WD is actually engaging and disengaging would your suggestion apply? I get the fronts to spin gravel when the light is on, and then when I disengage and the light flashes only the rear has traction.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    They may not spin but they are most likely not fully dis-engaged. I had this problem on my TOD equipped vehicle (same front axle actuator as the PT models)

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    They have come out with Heavy Duty OME springs now too? That might help the ride?
  • schweikbschweikb Posts: 111
    Thanks again. I see your point, that's why the light is giving the same flickering message "I'm trying to disengage."
    Question: Will I do much damage by continuing to drive with the light flickering, meaning partially disengaged? I have to go to about 150 miles to reach the dealer.
    Better to leave it engaged or flickering half-engaged?

    Thanks
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I'd leave it 1/2 engaged rather than fully engaged.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Yeah I'm going to go to the HD OMEs (not the expedition) as well, but the expedition ones are too stiff for off-roading.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    What are the expedition good for? The name would imply offroading?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    They are great for australian highways. AKA rough roads at high speeds carrying loads.

    -mike
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
  • chaser1chaser1 Posts: 20
    Slick - I like! Thanks!
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    That's pretty cool.

    -mike
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    If you guys ever make out to Moab (zuzoo.org), make sure to talk to Bruce Anderson. Great guy and quite a character.

    He has a lot of other mods he has done to his Trooper on the website, here is a general link:

    http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/trooper/96trooper.htm
  • bstone3bstone3 Posts: 97
    This guy is my idol - what a creative individual - His roof rack was my favorite - thanks for the site listing!
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,129
    Never seen plastic drill bits before (grab bars section). You'd think they'd just flop over in the drill ;-)

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Well just finished up doing the fuel filter and an oil change on the trooper. Oil change wasn't bad once I got the oil filter wrench. The Fuel filter was cake too, except that even though I ran it 'dry' by pulling the fuel pump fuse, it had a ton of gas that poured out all over me and the garage! I was lucky I didn't spray it onto the exhaust. Then the stupid bolt that holds the filter in wouldn't thread back on smoothly. That's what I get for waiting to 60K to change it!

    Other than that she's all good. Put in Castrol Synthetic 10-40 instead of the Mobil 1 5-30 that was previously ran. Hopefully this will help the oil consumption problem a little.

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    did you remember to remove the gas cap? That will let more pressure off the tank. If you just had residual gas dripping from the filter welcome to the club.
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