Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Isuzu Trooper

1278279281283284388

Comments

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    It's a lie since the air temp is different!

    In all seriousness, though you can get an SAFC which will adjust the timing and you *CAN* get more power by adjusting the timing. The problem is that you need to run a higher octane fuel to achieve this. Thus you will get more power, less milage, and fuel costs that are about $2.50-$5/gal

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    thanks for the ideas. Now I just need to make time to have the EGR cleaned, PCV checked and/or replaced, and to run a fuel/oil treatment through. I periodically run a couple bottles of Chevron ProGard (appears to be a more specialized version of Chevron's Techron, with less of the actual Techron 'good stuff') with a new tank of gas, but that along with my other maintenance (oil changes usually at 3k but sometimes as long as 4k, new plugs at 75k, etc.) has not slowed the problem.
  • bawbcatbawbcat Posts: 118
    Where is the EGR valve located? Is the cleaning an easy DIY procedure? I'm not familiar with that one.

    Checking/replacing the PCV valve is very easy. If you can blow air freely through the valve in one direction but not the other, then the valve is probably fine. A replacement only costs a few dollars at any auto supply store and is trivial to install.
  • Feel free to email me at: ryan_endres@juno.com and I can send you a link to a write up and a photo to. I posted a link here early today but it disappeared. You know the rules here . . .
    I hope my post sticks around for you to read, here is a photo of the EGR:
    image
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    can you e-mail me the writeup? I'll add it to http://isuzu-suvs.com

    -mike
  • buranburan Posts: 15
    I thought that I also heard similar noise on my '02 troop auto w/TOD. It started after xfer case was replaced (original problem was just leaking). The noise appears at exactly the same condition - only when vehicle rolls, technician told me that this is a normal ops for a new unit. It is hard to tell, because I don't exactly remember if I had this noise prior to xfer case replacement. However, TOD and low range seems to work fine, but I only put ~5-6k miles (mostly highway) since the replacement. BTW I checked fluid levels and it is ok. I hope this noise it is just what tech said, a new TOD normal ops, but who knows ?.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    In TOD on dry pavement I get noise from the center console. Not a lot and has been fairly consistent over the years.

    I think some noise from it while in operation is OK.
  • buranburan Posts: 15
    You right sbcooke, when TOD is engaged it is probably normal to have some noise, but what bawbcat and I have is a noise while TOD is off and vehicle rolling, it doesn't even matter what gear or speed you're on. The noise goes away when vehicle is stationary (engine still running, gear selection doesn't matter) or you are literally crawling, below ~10mph.
  • Has anyone here compared the manual and auto Troopers to see how the manual tranny models perform without the ToD ? Do the manual tranny models rely on driver to shift to 4 High if experience rough conditions ? Is there any other traction control type of gear to give manual tranny models with similar capability ? Could someone provide feedback on this ?

    Thanks.
  • If you are looking for smooth ride over dirt roads & control, go with Tokico Trekmasters. http://www.tokicogasshocks.com. They really work as advertised.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    No such beast.

    The 5MTs you can only use the 4wd on non-paved roads/snow covered roads, there is a rear LSD but that's the extent of the traction control involved with the 5MTs.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    I see the picture and recognize the general location in the engine compartment but have no idea where/what the EGR valve is.

    Ryan, if you could send paisan the writeup so he could post it on his site, that would be great.
  • dnestrdnestr Posts: 188
    As I know, most of 5MT's owners drive in 2H mode all the year even in such "snow covered" country as Russia. They switch 4H/4L modes on
    off-roads during short time only. If 5MTs Trooper is what you'd buy, probably, you should think about 2WD model instead 4WD.

    I used my 99 trooper w/auto tranny, w/TOD all the last year with "non-winter" tires, just simple "all-season" . So that was fine.

    But I'm sure, non-TOD t-case is more robust 'cause more simple.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    My heater/AC fan ticks now...well for a long time. I was reading about someone replacing their blower a few back. Did this fix the problem? Do others have a heater/AC fan that ticks. So far to solve this problem, I just turn the radio on.
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    One time I had that problem, thought I had to replace the motor due to a bad bearing. Took the motor out from under the dash...and there was a dried leaf caught in the squirrel cage. Pulled out the leaf, problem solved!
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    How did you get at it? Did you take the glove box out? That is where the noise sounds like it is coming from? Where is the motor located?
  • I had a similar problem with my ’99. The frequency was based on the speed of the motor. It was barely noticeable at low setting, but increased in sound and pace the higher the setting. I put up with it for a year or so and then had the motor replaced under warrantee.
  • On the manual 5 speed Trooper 2001 there is a 4wd button on the dash and a high/low range lever on the transfer case and the front hubs are always locked. On the manual 5 speed 1995 Trooper there is a 2wd/4high/4low lever on the transfer case and auto locking hubs on the front axles.
    ..
    In the 2001 2wd/4wd is advertised as an on the fly thing you can do.
    ..
    In the 1995 if you want to shift 2wd/4wd on the fly then first from a stop engage 4wd and drive forward a few meters, then as long as you don't back up, the auto hubs stay engaged, while the auto hubs are engaged you can shift 2wd/4wd on the fly for example when the road is moslty clear but there are patches of ice.
    ..
    In all Troopers you should only shift 2wd/4wd or 2wd/TOD while all four wheels are turning the same speed as it going straight and not spinning a tire.
    ..
    I went to great length to get a manual 5 speed replacement for my totaled 1995 manual 5 speed because I like the fun of shiftng.
    ..
    Comparison of manual transmissions in Troopers:
    .
    1984 4 speed manual was best easiest shifting transmission I have ever driven in any vehicle. 70 MPH = 4200 RPM One time I was stuck so good that I could not turn the tires, only burn the clutch be revving to >5500 and stepping off the clutch pedal.
    .
    1995 5 speed stiffer (cushioned stiff feel) than the 1984, but very good feel, no problems. It worked easier using RedLInOil.com's MTL transmission fluid. 70 MPH = 3100 RPM
    ..
    2001 5 speed as stiff or stiffer (bare metal hard stiff feel, feels efficient for the transmission) than the 1995 and the MTL made less of a difference in shifting effort. This one has a weakness: When in 3rd gear, if you did not place it firmly enough in gear it can pop out of gear. 70mph = 2700 RPM
    .
    On all three after a month I hardly realize I am shifting. The 2001 has a bunch more torque than the 1995 and feels lighter to drive overall. On all three I have had the clutch last the life of the vehicle.
  • Great write-up boxtrooper.

    I've had an '86 and a '99 both 5-speed. The '86 shifted smooth as silk. I wanted a 5-speed so bad on my '99 that I purchased a base and added an aftermarket stereo, leather, fog lights etc.

    I was looking at rodeo sports the other day and was surprised that a 5-speed is only available with the 4-cylinder engine. That's ashamed, a 5 -speed 3.2 combo sounds like a lot of fun in such a small package.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    The EGR sits at the rear of the engine compartment, right on the top side of the engine at the firewall. Real hard to miss.
  • ostazostaz Posts: 80
    Could you please look up the location of the blower motor resistor (that controls the blower fan speed). Mine went bad (switch only works on the highest position). Tried under the glove box area with no luck.

    Thanks
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    thanks. If anyone can miss it, it's me.
  • jusmojusmo Posts: 1
    Is there an easy way to determine if a Trooper is a model LS or S? Is there an indication or code printed somewhere?
    Thanks!
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    One easy way I can tell from the exterior, the S versions have the radio antenna on the Right front fender, LS has it in the rear windows. Another way is the S has Black side mirrors, the LS has colored. Once you get inside their are too many to list.
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    I am looking at my 99 manual, the resistor is shown on an exploded diagram...it appears to be mounted on the side of a short duct section between the blower motor assembly and the AC evaporator assembly. This duct section flares larger from the blower to the AC, looks like there are a few flex pleats in it, too, toward the larger end.

    The manual describes a process with an ohm meter to test the resistor, not sure I can convey it with words, but I'll try.

    Remove the connector. There are 5 terminals shown - 3 in the top row, and 2 on the bottom row with a empty space between. From left to right, top to bottom, they are numbered 3, 2, 1, 6, 4 (5 missing).

    At fan speed switch position 1, test between terminals 1 and 2, should be 2.4 ohms.

    At fan speed switch position 2, test between terminals 2 and 4, should be 0.90 ohms.

    At fan speed switch position 3, test between terminals 2 and 6, should be 0.28 ohms.

    At fan speed switch position 4 (high), test between terminals 2 and 3, should be no resistance.

    Good luck, let us know how it goes.
  • cwp2cwp2 Posts: 19
    Another quick way to tell is by the stock wheels. The S has 5 spoke wheels, while the LS has the mesh alloy. I've noticed that about 1/2 of the used "LS" Troopers on the market are actually "S". If you don't know what to look for, you could get taken.
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    and will add that LS's are often portrayed as Ltd.'s with the same potential for being taken.

    Jim
  • ostazostaz Posts: 80
    Thanks for the info. I will try in the AM. If it is all possible, could you elaborate more on the location of the resistor? Is it near the center console, or between the blower motor and the fender?

    I tried this weekend again (before you post) and just couldn't see it.

    Thanks
  • beware that an LS Trooper that started life as a rental may have been custom optioned by the rental vehicle purchase contract. I shopped around after my 1995 was totalled, I found the "rental fleet LS" was just an S with an extra 12V outlet by the back door and a few other little things. Not the same as what the new car dealers sell to end users like us.
    ..
    I also found that the former rental Troopers had mis-matched tires, example one or two of the tires on the ground were a different type.. strange.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    If you are buying a used Trooper, I wouldn't worry too much about it from a price perspective. Trooper's aren't that hot of an item. You can probably run all the numbers at the S level and bargain from there.

    As far as features? If you are set on an LS's features then you need to be sure you are getting what you want. I have an S with auto/TOD. I am not sure what options the LS had over the S, but I cannot imagine a lot...perhaps leather seats? The cloth are wearing well in my 1999.
Sign In or Register to comment.