Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Isuzu Trooper

1294295297299300388

Comments

  • dmuzykadmuzyka Posts: 31
    All this transmission talk has got me spooked....starting last week it seemed my '01 with 50k was taking a tick longer to shift into and out of reverse after backing up. Should I be concerned?
  • beer47beer47 Posts: 185
    From the start, every 40 to 50K take it to a good place that will do flush and fill. I had it done at a reputable place near me at 45K and 93K. I am almost at 111K on a 2000 "S" with no AT problems so far. I plan to do again at 140K. The other side of the coin is, if you have over a 100K now with only drain and fill then I would keep doing that. You may dislodge something that could cause problems otherwise. Oh, and I still have original filter in tranny. I am loath to have any AT taken apart if it is running as designed. Even to change a filter.
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    I agree a flush is the best way to go. I do mine a little less than every 30k mis. It just seems like very cheap insurance for the price of three gallons of fluid and my time.

    I will admit though that a case can be made for doing a drain and fill. Granted it is not as good as getting almost all the old fluid out. But at least it does get out about 1/2 the old fluid and is somewhat easier to do. I suppose if you did it every 10kmis. or so it might be good enough, at least to get you to 150kmis. or so on the tranny. While I kind of hate to admit it this is pretty much what I do with my power steering fluid. Instead of disconnecting a hose and flushing it, I pop the basket and syringe out the fluid in the reservior several times every 3rd oil change or so.
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    When did you guys add the ability to click on a members name, and thier profile comes up without logging in?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    When did you guys add the ability to click on a members name, and thier profile comes up without logging in?

    I never noticed that before since I automatically login. It might have changed over the course of the past several days while our computer folks tweak the member profile settings.

    tidester, host
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Not to mention information marked as private displayed to the world? What is with that? I checked my profile while not logged in and it had information checked as private displayed?
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    FWIW, I can't see your private info either logged in or not.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    Are you sure you weren't automatically logged back in when you read your profile?

    tidester, host
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I can't seem to get my truck to stop from getting a misfire in cylinder 1. I replaced the coil etc even put in 2 new plugs in cylder 1 and 2. No dice. I guess I'll send it to the dealer and see what they can come up with, it's under warranty so it's not that bad.

    -mike
  • I bought a 2000 LS 2WD a month ago with 65K miles. I have to add 1 quart of oil every 6-700 miles when doing highway driving. I use 5W30 and was wondering if anyone could tell me what I can do to decrease my oil consumption. Thanks!
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I noticed that 10-40 burns less oil. 5-30 is too thin IMHO.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    do a search in this topic for 'oil consumption' or similar phrase.

    The consensus is that several things should be done, all around the same time:
    * oil and filter change
    * add a cleaner to the engine oil
    * add a cleaner to the fuel system (e.g. Neutra or Auto-RX are 2 that seem more legitimate than others and work in both fuel and oil if I recall correctly)
    * clean EGR valve and EGR tube/passages
    * clean/check/replace PCV valve

    Our 1998 Trooper just passed 99k miles and uses a quart every 900 miles or so. As soon as I get around to having a shop do the EGR cleaning, I will replace the PCV valve (new one is waiting in garage), change the oil, and add some Neutra to both the fuel and oil. I hope this will reduce the consumption rate in our Trooper.
  • problem in the 1995 to 1997 Trooper 3.2L engines. I think the 2000 is not subject to that particular lifter tickiing problem.
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    Did you ever get those replacement headlights?
    teacherjim Jan 1, 2004 7:47pm
  • Hi All,

    i am looking for a vehicle and have short listed two options.
    1. Toyota camry - 1998
    2. Isuzu trooper - 1999.

    i have collected required info for camry from various sources. but have no idea on Isuzu. can any one help me make my mind ?

    the trooper is 99 with 91K miles on board.
    are there any pitfalls that i should be looking for ? when are the services to be done and what expenses should i be expecting ?
  • Bluedevils' advice is good, although at such high rate of consumption simple maintenance may not suffice. I believe in preventative maintenance and have periodically cleaned the pcv valve, throttle body and once the EGR valve. On a recent 1600mi trip (95% highway) my 2001 Trooper with 40k burned only 1/8qt of 5W-30 Chevron dino oil. I would try a good dino 10W-30 or even 10W-40 oil such as Chevron, Castrol or Pennzoil.
  • thank you for your help. I will try the egr service and thicker oil and let you know how it turns out!
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    Going to thicker oil is a band-aid approach IMO. I ran 5W-30 Mobil One without oil burning issues, and that is about a thin as it gets (unless you go to 0W-30 Mobil One).

    I recommend the EGR/PCV cleaning first before resorting to thicker oil.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Has anyone done this at home, and what are the gotcha's??

    Mobile ONE 0W-30 was what ISUZU recommended for the 'ticking' problem on the 95-97 Troopers. I used it on my 97' with limited results. This is NOT a issue on the newer engines since the lifter design is different.

    1988 Trooper with cracked oil filter housing adapter. Anyone else seen this problem?? The oil is just pouring out of the thing. Looks like it'll cost a few bucks to get it repaired.
  • df2000df2000 Posts: 60
    I would not underestimate effect of adding 4q of fresh ATF say every 1 yr/15K mi in drain and fill routine. If I can use analogy with motor oil, there is very good evidence on Bob site of adding about 1q of fresh oil every 2K mi to 5-6 q system on LS1/Camaro engine to significantly improve wear metal numbers in UOA. I was actually surprised myself. Of course, if you not do this from car was new all bets are off.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I have my name marked as private. It shows up when you are not logged in. I deleted my cookies and came back in and was logged in as guest.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I notice a lot of gas smell from the exhaust? I am not sure if this is just related to starting the truck up in under 15 degree weather or if it could be a symptom of something? I just added a thing of fuel injector cleaner to see if that helps?
  • Thanks for all of the good responses on my previous post.

    breakor, Just to let you know the tranny shop did pull the pan for me and showed me the metal shavings and burnt, dark-colored fluid. They are an independant shop that has been around for 30 years. To be safe though, I did get a 2nd opinion and they arrived at the same conclusion. The cost for a rebuilt tranny is just over $2k including labor. He said they might be able to subtract $500 off of that if they can save the torque converter.

    Here's what really gets me thinking though. I never had any problems with the truck until I had the service at 72.5K miles. To me that means only one of two things: 1.) This was a long problem that went undiagnosed by the dealer. 2.) The dealer actually caused the problem by improper fluid level and/or spraying the metal shavings throughout the tranny during the flush.

    If its #1, shouldn't the dealer be inspecting the fluid being taken out for a burning smell, dark color, or shavings?

    If its #2, isn't the dealer directly responsible for the problem? BTW, both tranny shops that I am dealing with completely disagree with tranny flushes. They say it can only aggrevate a problem (e.g. metal shavings). They say dropping the pan is the only way to really perform an inspection of the transmission. Not sure, but that seemed to make sense to me.

    As I said in my previous post, I have fully (ok...reluctantly) accepted the fact that I am financial responsible for the repairs. I just want to know what happened and how to do things differently next time.
  • I agree with the tranny shops completely. Flushing a tranny with high miles is just asking for trouble. It's better to do a gradual drain and refill so that the new fluid doesn't dislodge too much crud at once. What I do is every fall I buy a case of good quality ATF (last one was Pennzoil) and do several drain/refills until the case is used. It's a bit messy to get under the truck several times, but I'd rather be messy than poor. If you still want to do a flush, the safest route would be after a flush to drop the pan after a couple of hundred miles and change the filter.
  • I believe there was a good post in the Maintenance section with a picture of the EGR. It's very easy to take apart, you need to remove the plastic engine cover and the EGR valve is held by only two bolts. I used Valvoline synthetic carb cleaner but my EGR wasn't very dirty to begin with. Make sure to check the rubber hose underneath it for debris/deposits.
  • beer47beer47 Posts: 185
    I think it depends on how you start out. Whatever method you start with you should probably stick with for the duration. I'm happy so far with flush and fill. On my '74 Hilux I am sure drain and fill will be just fine. I don't want to "shock" a 30 year old Toyota!
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    I agree with Greenmax. With the miles you had, doing the flush and then replacing the filter (and fluid again in the process) shortly thereafter was the way to go. That should have removed the bits that were loosened by the fresh ATF and then got caught on the filter and settled into the pan. Not that this would have guaranteed you a successful flush, but it should have GREATLY increased your odds.

    Did your dealer have an explanation for the failure after their work? Did they offer to give you any price consideration on a rebuild? Have you even asked them about this?

    What did your tranny shops have to say about the situation? Specifically did they find the level to be correct? Did they think it odd that the fluid was that burnt 2.5kmis after the dealer service? The shops should be the true experts on this. Who knows they might be able to help you build a case against the dealer. A word of warning though just because your shops confirm that the dealer caused the problem doesn't necessarily mean a judge would. The dealer afterall can pack the courtroom with his experts saying they did nothing wrong.

    Lastly, I believe that no one truly knows what is wrong with an AT until they tear into it. If your shop is going to install a rebuilt unit (the best option if you ask me) you may never really know what happened.
  • I have not had the chance to get any replacement headlights yet. I do plan on getting the 9004 bulbs and hope it makes for some brighter lights
  • I tried the Silverstar's and the difference was significant. Bought them for $25 on ebay (though they are usually more). Very white light. I've thought of replacing the fog light bulbs with Silverstar's but haven't gotten around to it.
  • Check out these lights. Found them online for $40 + S&H. This company on ebay selling for $20 including S&H. Arrived in 4 days and installed today. The wattage is the same as factory bulbs but they produce a much whiter light. I couldn't say how much brighter they actually are but they do appear to light up road much better than stock. I figured for $20 they were worth a try. I'll post later after I've run them for a while. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&cate- gory=36476&item=2456390524
Sign In or Register to comment.