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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    IMHO there is something terribly wrong to cause that. Are you sitting at lights more than moving? Are you a real lead foot (brakes go bad quickly also)? Is the town all steap hills and you carry a heavy load all the time? Have you got a trailer on it?
    ..
    Is there a poor alignment causing much more than normal friction? Is the tire pressure too low? Try parking on level ground, put it in neutral and push it by yourself, do this also with another higher mpg Trooper. If there is no problem pushing it manually maybe the problem is in the engine or transmission. Is your air filter stopped up? Or air flow sensor giving a signal like there's lots more air than you have so the computer adds more fuel? Are your exhausts freely moving?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    That's about what I get around town.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I had some exhaust flutter on saturday when towing up to Pocono for the HPDE. So I figure I'll check it when I get a chance. Well yesterday the exahust pipe on the left side became disconnected from the manifold! It was sitting on the cross member.

    Not bad timing though, I dropped it off at a local shop to get it taken care of and at the same time I'll get my shocks and springs put in :)

    Anyone know if the tight coils go on the top or bottom of the coil springs?

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Larger tires, ARB BullBar, and roof rack is the only thing I can guess. I adjust the mileage calculation for the larger tires, but if they have extra weight it could drop the mileage by 1, maybe the 80 lbs. bullbar takes another 1 mpg away? and the roof rack? I have a very short commute, so startup, 5 miles and shutoff. I have been very careful during the last tank regarding stopping and starting because it is easy to be a lead foot with all the torque off the line.

    Once my garage is cleaned out I will take the roof rack off and see if that makes a difference? It certainly does on the highway, but around town I don't go over 40.

    I wonder about the plugs because of the oil burn, even though I burn less than others on this board, it is possible the plugs are not firing as good as they can due to buildup?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    assuming $2/gallon for fuel
    1000 miles @ 11mpg cost $181.82
    1000 miles @ 16mpg cost $125.00
    ..
    The difference is $56.82
    Assume half of that is the extra weight and therefore extra energy to spin up the biger tires.
    Big tire weight cost $28.41 per 1000 miles.
    ..
    Now what if the steel belts in those big tires were bullet proof kevlar instead, IMHO the reduced weight where it counts at the tread would remove 2/3 of the cost of heavier tires or $19 / 1000 miles.
    ..
    If you use a set of tires for 40000 miles that's a savings of 40*19 = $760. That's $190 per tire in savings.
    ..
    How many of you would consider buying kevlar tires that cost twice as much as steel belted ones in order to save money over time?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I don't think i've ever seen that even stock when it was new around town.

    My 275-70-16 tires are significantly heavier than the stock ones. I'm thinking that is a big portion along with my ARB, and 1-2" lift and my lead foot.

    My friend drove it for a week and didn't complain about the milage at all. He is significantly gentler on the gas and brakes than I am.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Picked up the Trooper after having the OME Expedition Springs and the HD Shocks put in. OMG! Rides like when it was new again. So far very happy with the new setup, well worth the $.

    More details as I use it some more.

    -mike
  • cwmcwm Posts: 42
    I need HD Shocks for both our 1999 and 1998 Troopers. About how much is it going to set me back?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I believe the OMEs cost me ~$70/each from rockyroad outfitters. I bought the package of springs and shocks for around $450ish. I'll see if I can find the link for yah.

    -mike
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    and as the tire diameter gets bigger the effect of the tire weight on the energy needed to spin them up (and more energy to slow them down maybe giving longer stopping distance) is magnified since a big part of that weight is at the tread.
    ..
    stock P245/70/16 tires are around 30 to 33 lbs.
    larger LT245/75/16C are around 40 lbs.
    larger LT245/75/16E are around 48 lbs.
    larger LT265/75/16C must be 50++ lbs.
    IMHO P275/70/16 would be similar to lt265/75/16C
    ..
    For some reason, tire weights are not easy to find on the internet. I got the weights for some sizes of ATRevos 30K miles ago from the store, they have a book to figure out shipping charges.
    ..
    I would really like a larger set of tires, but I fear the cost in mpg not just the $$$ of the fuel, but the hard time my wife will give me about the mpg. Now with 255/70/16 I am getting about the same 16.7 MPG around town as she gets with the minivan, if that were 11mpg she would be all upset and I would never hear the end of how nice it would be to get a higher mpg vehicle, like a 4cyl. Saturn sedan she would rather have. We test drove that Saturn 4cyl. large size sedan once last year after my 1995 Trooper was totalled, it was totally gutless, worse than my 1984 1.9L Trooper, lacking the torque that I have become accustomed to with my Troopers. Flipside: if the Diesel Troopers finally get available after 2006 in the USA I can use her mpg sensitivity to help me get a diesel.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    That's why as soon as I can afford a used Duramax Diesel, I will be getting one and giving my Trooper to my dad.

    -mike
  • dnestrdnestr Posts: 188
    If I'm converting from metric system correct, then I get 17,8 MPG around town (we have a hard traffic here in Moscow City, just the average speed is about 5 m/h) and 23,2 MPG on a highway (80 m/h). I consider it to be tolerable for a middle sized diesel truck. BTW, mine has 245/70/16.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I have P265/70...I figure that in about 10-15K they should be close to brand new stock tires given the tread wear. I am at 10K now. I think 11 vs. 16 around town isn't the tires. Just could be a combination of things. I wish Isuzu put a small V8 in with more HP. I think the weight vs. power change would result in a little better performance and possibly slightly better MPG. The V6 has a lot of go to it, but it probably has to work harder to move the 5000 lbs than a V8 would?

    Shocks...www.rocky-road.com
  • doublesharpdoublesharp Posts: 32
    Help. My 2000 Limited 2wd came in about 9 pm last night. Looks great, runs great but the first time I opened the moonroof all the way it stuck and won't close. Wish I'd stopped at the first position but I opened it all the way. Glad I've got a garage because it's raining here today. It moves forward about 3 inches and then stops. It will then move back but when you try to close it it stops after about a 3" travel. Anybody been through this before? This is one of the downsides of ebay. I haven't talked to the seller yet but I imagine I'm on my own although I haven't left feedback yet. Any advice appreciated.
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    Hopefully you got a owners manual, it will explain how to shut it manually. If not, on the headliner behind the sunroof you'll see a plastic plug, pull it off and you should have a key supplied with the vehicle to turn it manually. Being a Ebay car it could be missing, I keep mine under the back seat storage compartment. You could probably find something in the mean time to close it if the tool is missing.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    I decided to pull the EGR valve on my 01' Troop and see how dirty it was, to make a comparison to the EGR removed from my 99' Trooper. After taking it off, I noticed there was a little carbon buildup, but not what I saw on the 99' EGR. I also noted that the mandral would move freely in and out if pressed inward with a small screwdriver. It appears to have a spring return to closed position. The spring action pushed the mandrel back out against the seat. I also noted that the mandrel can be turned like a screw with a torx driver, and that it should rotate freely. I tried that on the EGR from my 99' but it was not free to move. It wouldn't return to seat by itself either. The carbon buildup on it was so thick, it made the mandrel 'sticky'. That explains the CEL and why the dealer just replaced the EGR valve.

    I got my carb cleaner out and squirted the EGR from the 01' down real good and let the chamber 'soak' a bit. Then I took a brass wire brush and cleaned the valve seat area 'hole' and the mandrel real good so the metal was visible again. As it turns out, there was quite a bit of carbon buildup on these. After a thorough cleaning I decided to check the chamber on the engine. I squirted it down good and noticed the backwash of brown/black liquid coming out to the outside. I then took an airline and blew the chamber out to dry it and reinstalled the EGR valve. Started up the engine, and everything was fine!

    After that I decided to see if I could get the same results on the EGR valve from the 99' Trooper. I filled its chamber full of carb cleaner and let it soak a bit. After rotating the mandrel several turns and pressing in and out on it, it came free! Another soak or two, and its working as freely as the one I had cleaned from the 01'. I would have no reservations putting this valve back into either of the Troopers in the future, which I plan to do if necessary. There was a significant amount of carbon buildup in this older valve. It had about 60K miles of service on it, whereas the 01' had about 32K miles of service. I would recommend the valve get a cleaning about every 30K miles from what I saw on these two. Its really a quick easy service to perform, just be careful not to damage that grafoil material gasket on the intake housing.
  • seanreidseanreid Posts: 152
    I'd really appreciate it if anyone can help me answer the three maintenance questions below (1999 Trooper with TOD), either on list or directly at sreid@sover.net

    1. Does the front differential have a drain? I've heard both that it doesn't and that it does (disguised as a cover bolt at about 5:00 on the differential)

    2. Is the fill opening for the transmission the 19mm bolt in the right rear corner of the pan? If not, where exactly is that fill? The drain must be the 19mm bolt in the center rear of the pan, right?

    3. The Trooper manual discusses maintenance for the SOTF oil. Is this the little transfer case on the left front driveshaft? If so, where/how does that drain? Does it use GL5?

    Many thanks,

    Sean
  • doublesharpdoublesharp Posts: 32
    Look in the book as a last resort. I found the tool and was able to get about a halfturn counter clockwise and then the motor worked ok. Didn't malfunction again but I didn't take it to the limit either, really no reason to open it all the way unless you're hauling a sofa or something, haha. Thanks for the tip. By the way I'd called the ebay seller and he said get it fixed and fax him the bill. Guess that's how he gets such good feedback and is a power seller. Dreamfinders is ebay handle and Kenny Wright is the man.
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    Wow, that's great the guy stands behind his deals. This could have put a damper on a real good buy. I open mine all the way at least 3 times a week. The fun part is when your stuck in traffic and the smaller car occupants look up through it, the look on thier faces are laughable:)
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Yup it's one of the cover bolts.

    ATF, I let the dealer do it, due to no dip-stick/filler, royal PITA.

    SOTF, when you find out post up cause I want to do it too.

    -mike
  • seanreidseanreid Posts: 152
    Thanks for the reply Paisan.

    I spoke to some very helpful folks at St. Charles Isuzu and learned the following.

    1. SOTF oil change - this does seem to apply specifically to the transfer case on a non-TOD Trooper. It apparently does not apply to TOD Troopers.

    Sidenote: The unit on the front left driveshaft seems to be fed oil from the front differential. It apparently has just one access hole which supposedly can be used with a syphoning device to remove GL5 oil during an front diff. oil change. In other words, draining the front differential (more below) doesn't remove the residual oil which is retained in this unit. For a very thorough differential oil change, one can both drain the front diff and syphon this other unit.

    2. There apparently *is* a drain on the front differential and it's a 12mm (head) bolt (with two washers) located at about 5:00 on the rear of the front differential. It's apparently shorter than the other bolts (which have single washers) on that cover. I'm told that the factory may seal this opening with a little silicon so it may need to be physically opened up after the bolt is removed.

    3. The tranny fill bolt location is surprising because its on the pan itself and seems like it could be a drain bolt. The actual drain bolt is in the rear center of the tranny pan. The fill bolt is in the right rear corner of pan (where it angles up). Both drain and fill use 19mm hex bolt.

    I can't vouch for any of the above yet because the truck has not been back up on a lift since I did this research. Tomorrow AM I can check some of this out.

    Today I had many things done on the Trooper including new rear rotors and pads, oil change with Mobil One 10W-30 and Wix filter, TOD ATF changed, Valvoline 75-90 synthetic (plus antislip additive) in rear diff. and a transmission flush.

    About that last item...I discussed the tranny flush several times with my mechanic and he believes it was OK to do because the test fluid he drained from the tranny wasn't especially dirty or smelly. He has sometimes discouraged people with high mileage vehicles from doing the flush. I know there are many debates on doing a first tranny flush at 63K but I decided to trust my mechanic who has taken good care of our vehicles for several years. Hopefully it wasn't a mistake to do it. The machine basically just connects to the tranny lines and feeds fresh ATF into the tranny while removing the old ATF. It uses the truck's own ATF pump to make this transfer and so (as I understand it) shouldn't put any more pressure stress on the seals than normal idling would. Supposedly, it removes exactly as much fluid as it puts in. The concerns I've read about this procedure is that the process can force gunk into small openings in the tranny, clogging them and ruining the transmission. Supposedly, if your fluid is pretty clean that shouldn't be a problem. I think he cycled about 18 quarts of fluid through the system and the change went pretty slowly so obviously the Trooper doesn't have a real high pressure ATF pump. I'll be happy to know the exact tranny fluid level when he checks it tomorrow, however.

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • seanreidseanreid Posts: 152
    I do wonder one thing about the tranny flush procedure. Supposedly, it cleans the screen as part of the process. But if there are particles large enough to be trapped against the screen, how would they leave the transmission during a flush. The flow of fluid is being created by the pump and so is moving in the same direction as usual (ie: towards the filter screen) so how could the screen be cleaned. Anyone know?

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • seanreidseanreid Posts: 152
    Call me crazy, but I made an appointment with a local private transmission shop to have the tranny fluid changed the old fashioned way (pulling the pan and changing the filter). Does the 4L30E have a metal screen or a paper filter? I thought the first but now I'm not sure.

    It's another $100 but I imagine that between the flush and the traditional fluid/filter change, my transmission should hold up for a long time. The flush should have cleaned the torque converter and the other should deal with the filter. $200 all together for both but that's less than a $2000 tranny.

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks,

    Sean
  • kjmcgirlkjmcgirl Posts: 12
    Sean,

    Let me know how it goes. My trooper as 35K on it and I was thinking of having the pan dropped vs. the flush others have discussed. I called 2 Isuzu dealers in DC metro area, and they want $375 for this. Quite pricey indeed.

    -Kevin
  • buranburan Posts: 15
    I did my Tranny flush about 1.5 mons & 3k miles ago, so far no problems. it was just a flush no pan drop or screen change. This was done on 2002 Troop 4wd/TOD/Auto at 30k, cost $160 (minus 15 % discount) at the dealer (clarksville,md). when i was shopping around for tranny flush i came accross AAMCO shop, i belive they quote me ~$250 for the flush with filter change or $150 just a flush.
  • troop2shostroop2shos Posts: 235
    The term flush to me is a misnomer - I equate the process as a fluid exchange. There is debatable concern of new AT fluid dislodging varnish in a neglected tranny. The use of solvent type additives to "clean" the tranny would pose more of a risk than just using ATF. Many vehicle manufacturers recommend regular fluid exchange intervals. Heat, breaking down the fluid properties, is my concern rather than particulate issues from wear in a closed lube system.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    This I believe is used as a term because it completely removes all the old fluid (including the 5 quarts in the torque converter) versus drain/fill which will not get that stuff out.

    I had to have a $400 drop-pan/filter dealio done at my dealer when I was having tranny issues, however it was worth it cause it runs like new now. I'm going to make sure to get it drained/filled every 20K from now on.

    -mike
  • seanreidseanreid Posts: 152
    I think its true that there may be a real difference between a "power flush" (with fluid being forced into the tranny under pressure from an external pump)and a flush (fluid being moved through the tranny using its own pump). The flush cost me $109.00 (with fluids) and the traditional pan and filter service will cost me $100.00. So I figure for $209.00 I will have had a very thorough service done on a $3000 transmission.

    It's the screen/filter issue that nags at me with just the flush. I'm still not sure if the filter in the tranny is a metal screen or a paper element but either way it has trapped various gunk in it/against it, etc. A flush could certainly stir that stuff up but it can't physically force it past the filter. I asked my mechanic this and he didn't have an explanation. He said the rep who sold them the machine said that it cleans the filter as well but I don't buy that and I'm not even sure my mechanic buys it. I don't see how its physically possible. I talked with two tranny shops yesterday afternoon and they both said that while the flush is useful for cleaning the torque converter it can't replace the traditional service. One of them said a flush is like doing an oil change without changing the filter which matches my gut sense.

    So, aside from the extra cost, I would think a flush followed by a pan and filter service would do a very thorough job. It's a bit of a hassle but less so than a tranny replacement.

    Thanks for the replies.

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    I would love it if you could describe where the EGR valve is, looking, say, from the front of the engine with the hood open... left or right? What do I have to remove to get to it?
  • doublesharpdoublesharp Posts: 32
    I need touch up paint for the beige trim on fender flares and bottom of 2000 trooper. Anybody know the paint code and have any recommendations on where to get the best color match? Thanks
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