Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Isuzu Trooper

1319320322324325388

Comments

  • silverghostsilverghost Posts: 154
    The following is just my 2 cents worth, and some members may take exception to some of this. That said, I'd be cautious of this Trooper, rather, the dealer, due to the number of errors in the description.

    1. This is an S model, not an authentic LS. Check with "Paisan." He has a REAL '00 LS, and mine is an '01. The LS had (among other things) a single color paint scheme, mesh allow wheels, LS badging on the C-pillars, fog lights, body colored mirrors, body side protection strips, chrome door window reveal moldings, front seat arm rests, leather-wrapped steering wheel and shifter handle, and 6-disc CD changer (the photos clearly show an empty storage bin where the factory changer is supposed to be mounted).

    2. The tire and wheel size specs are obviously wrong, and there are no running boards unless they were removed (unlikely) for the photos. That, and the phony LS pitch, leads me to conclude there may be other statements that are less than accurate.

    3. I don't remember if power seats were even available on the 2000 S model, and those photos are inclusive. They were standard on the '00 and '01 LS, and they were heated. It would be prudent to confirm that they are in fact there.

    4. I haven't run price comps, but my gut tells me that $11K is high for a 2000 S model. Particularly since the factory warranty expired at 60K.

    A search of this forum will turn up lots of maintenance items to check on. At 65K, the timing belt, water pump and brakes SHOULD be okay. They should still be inspected, though.

    All fluids, but most importantly the transmission fluid, should have been changed at least once already. That 4L30 shift box tends to develop varnish and sludge. So if it's never been changed, I think most would agree that flushing now will only create problems. Just drain and fill 2-3 times over 30 days or so, and you shoud be okay.

    Although spark plugs are supposedly good for 100K, they should have been changed around 40K. A search will turn up several siezed plug stories.

    The most likely problem you might encounter is oil consumption. Some 3.5L Troopers burn a quart in 1000-1500 miles. Others, like my '01 LS, don't burn any. EGR carbon buildup seems to make matters worse, so periodic cleaning is advisable.

    I may be wrong, but I think the maintenance schedule calls for the wheel bearings to be repacked at 60K.

    The 4WD components are an unknown to me, 'cause mine is 2WD. But run a search. There are some potential problem areas. As for the third row seat, you're on your own. IIRC, there have been safety issues with all of them.

    Hope this gives you some direction. Work this board, 'cause a lot of folks here know way more than I.

    Dave
  • bemathew1bemathew1 Posts: 18
    That's a good catch...even now I am not sure its a S or an LS....In the carfax it says
    -------------------------
    The story of this 2000 ISUZU TROOPER S/LS/LIMITED (JACDJ58X7Y7J17055) according to our interpretation of the information reported to CARFAX:
    This SUV has had 2 owners and was owned in Montana and Arizona. It was originally registered to a rental agency and operated as a daily rental passenger vehicle.
    It has had no minor or moderate accidents reported to CARFAX.
    It has had no DMV-reported total loss events, like a major accident, fire or flood.
    It has a consistent mileage history with no indication of an odometer rollback.

    The last odometer reading, reported on 07/22/2001, was 7,485 miles.
    -------------------------------------------

    This means that the average miles per year is almost 20K miles for the last 3 years.....which I think tells that most of the miles are highway miles??
  • silverghostsilverghost Posts: 154
    Yeah, I seem to recall that trooper VIN's don't indicate which model it is.

    Those rental units muddy the water, because the rental companies called them LS's. But they were simply S models optioned with maybe electric seats and tinted windshield. That didn't make them true LS's, though.

    Don't know about the "highway miles" premise, but if it indeed spent most of its life in Arizona and Montana, I'd guess that's a safe presumption.
  • rotweilrotweil Posts: 3
    Well bought another trooper. I have a 93 S 4x4 with 165k on it that will be going up for sale. I was thinking of getting a new 4runner or pilot. Test drove the 4runner and it's was a bit small for me. The pilot is real nice but even with bargaining the regular ex (no nav, leather) was 28 grand. I'm not into the latest and greatest but I do like my cash so I couldn't pull the trigger when I saw what I could get a used trooper for. Just picked my 2002 up from the dealership for $14,600 out the door with 14k miles, warranty to Nov 05 and services records showing a dealer visit every 3k miles. Yeah it's not as fancy as newer vehicles and I'm going to add a roof rack, side step rails and a CD player but it will still be a lot cheaper then 28K. Maybe I'll blow the extra cash on a nice used boat for lake lanier.

    BTW I am going to add a tow hitch. Not going to do a lot of towing and was wondering if a transmission cooler is needed. Also notice there is no transmission dip stick. Is this how all the new vehicles are..no more checking the transmission unless you get the dealer to throw up on on the rack? I guess I'm used to older tech cars eh?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    That is actually neither an S/LS/Limited...

    It is an Rental model. Indicators of rental fleet vehicles include:

    No in-glass antenna combined with factory tinted rear/side windows.
    2-tone with Power driver seat.

    Those are the dead giveaways that it was the special fleet troopers sold to rental car companies. I wouldn't touch this one unless it was in the 6K range. I'd also call and threaten to contact the better business board.

    -mike
  • bemathew1bemathew1 Posts: 18
    Thanks every one...I will keep my eyes open for a better one....

    Keep you posted
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    The warranty on my 1999 S is about to expire. I have 1 long term problem that I am not sure what I should do about? There is a weird "twang" in my steering column when I turn back and forth on center. It is almost like there is a squared off point on a hole it is running through that makes it do something weird when you change direction?

    I don't think it is play in the column or gear since the wheels are fine when jacked up and tightening/loosing the gear has no effect. I had my whole column replaced under warranty already about 2 years back to see if that would fix it.

    Last year I tried unsuccessfully to get this fixed again. They said that while they agree it is there, they cannot find anything wrong or loose.

    With my warranty up in a month, I am not sure if I should drop it off and say fix it or else agree to extend the warranty on it? Or if I should ignore it and let it just be there? Most likely they won't do a thing and I will have to spend several hours back and forth to make nothing happen. I am just worried about the cost 1 year from now if I have a problem. I got Isuzu corporate involved both times, the first time they replaced the column, then when Isuzu was on the ropes, they would barely return my calls.
  • peterismepeterisme Posts: 68
    Inhale Gasket: Repeat offender

    On Saturday, the check engine light was on in my 99 Trooper. It is a S, with 78000 miles. So I send it to the dealer today. They said it is the gasket problem in the engine. Same problem happened when the car was around 40000 miles. It becomes chronic disease now. It takes $340 to install a new one.

    Do you guys have the same experience? And can you guys find cheaper places to repair it?

    Thanks!

    Pete
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    The Trooper is rated to tow 5000K without an additional transmission cooler. I believe it already has one built in to the radiator.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    It is rated to tow w/o a cooler, but it is a good idea to put one in. I've been debating putting one in mine.

    -mike
  • rotweilrotweil Posts: 3
    yup talked to my mechanic. Atlanta is hot. Coolers are cheap and transmissions are expensive so I'm putting one in. Also got a nice surprise when I called Isuzu to register the warranty under my name. I knew the 10 year 120K warranty was transferable only to family members so I thought I only had the remainder of the 3 year 50k bumper to bumper. Turns out they transfer part of the drive train warranty... a 5 year 60k warranty. Feel I got an even better deal now since the truck only has 14k on it. BTW talked to a few dealers in addition to Isuzu North America and some my leave this year but plenty will stay to honor service agreements.
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    Do you know who will stay and who will go? I think we only have four dealers left in the metro area now. I usually go to Lou Sobh for oil changes and, even though Pugmire is much closer, their service dept. is virtually non-existent (one mechanic just a couple of hours each day in some different location)...
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I did a similar search to replace my 1995 Trooper which was totalled last summer.
    ..
    My 2 cents:
    All of the "rental fleet" Troopers I test drove, even with only 15K miles, desperately needed the shocks replaced and I would do the OME springs too.
    ..
    All but one of the rental fleet Troopers had mismatched tires. Mismatched tires are very bad for limited slips in differentials. These tires were not very old, but were very "bottom of the line" so they would need replaced immediately also.
    ..
    A pair of rental fleet Troopers with nearly the same Vehicle ID#s with nearly the same mileage, had radically different wear and tear on them, look each one over carefully in every detail, sit in each seat belt position and put on each seat belt, etc....
    ..

    I have a LittlePassengerSeat from my 1995, I have not yet installed it in my 2001. The seat is built very very strong. It bolts in with 4 each 3/8-24 grade-8 bolts. The brackets stay in place with the seat out which makes it about a 10 minuted task to take the seat out or put it back. The seat I have does not fold. I mounted it facing rear for easy access to load kids through the back door. This creates a significant hidden space between the middle and new third row, enough for my tools and a few extra things like a small step ladder.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    Got a quote from the dealer for rear brakes on my Trooper. The "rotors are so rusted I can't turn them he says." Yikes. $766. As far as I can tell, the rotors are nice and shiny.

    I'm really thinking of taking this somewhere else for a quote. Does anyone make aftermarket disks/pads?
  • seanreidseanreid Posts: 152
    Transmission Cooler...is a very good idea for any vehicle that does regular towing. I haven't yet put one in the 1999 I bought this spring but I will. I own a motorcycle touring company and we do extensive trailering to move bikes around, etc., primarily with a one-ton conversion van but sometimes with the Trooper as well. Our vans, Suburban, Avalanche, etc. have all had coolers.

    Rear brakes: $766 is high on the brakes. I had mine done (by my regular mechanics) after I bought this (2nd) 1999 Trooper and I think it was under $400. The higher end Wagner rotors are supposed to be pretty good and my mechanics used NAPA "Gold" rotors which they have had good experience with. The NAPA "Gold" stuff seems to be good in general, for example, the "Gold" oil filter is actually a high end WIX, etc. The cheaper aftermarket rotors will warp more easily I'm told and a greater percentage of them are out of round fresh from the box. Good quality rear rotors for the Trooper seem to run $80-$110 each.

    Intake Gasket: Mine was done at about 45K (before I bought the vehicle) and I think that when it needs to be done again, I'll do it myself (unless time is scarce). Fortunately, the truck doesn't seem to need that yet but I've love to read comments from list members who've done that replacement themselves. As I recall, it isn't brain surgery.

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    I had figured that $400 was about what it should cost. I can get Brembo disks for $70 or so each, and the pads for no more than that. So $200 for parts and $200 for a couple of hours labor...

    Thanks for confirming my suspicions.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 843
    Do you really need to turn the rotors? Are they still within specs for thickness and runout? Many of the recent rotors are such that you really may not want to turn them since there is not sufficient material. How many miles do you have on your Trooper?

    My '00 LS is over 67,000 on the original brakes. I'm thinking about replacing the pads.. and considering leaving the rotors alone. The original Isuzu pads have been absolutely NO dust (vs the Jeep GCL my wife drove until we traded it 6 weeks ago..it was MAX dust.) I'm almost afraid to go with even the ceramic 'dustless' aftermarket pad because of that. Have not priced them locally, but have seen posts that St Charles Isuzu in Missouri gives a decent price.

    Bill
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    At 20K I did my rear rotors cause they were destroyed by the rear backing plates. I put on Isuzu pads front and rear at that time. I now have 75K miles on it and they are doing well, will throw on a set of pads soon so I don't have to turn the fronts which are a major PITA.

    -mike
  • seanreidseanreid Posts: 152
    If Brembo's car/truck rotors are as good as their motorcycle rotors then they should be excellent. The front pads and rotors were done on my 1999 a couple thousand miles before I bought it (by the previous owner himself) and the rears were done just after. The front wheels show lots of brake dust and the rear wheels stay clean. Naturally, the front brakes do more of the work but I suspect my mechanic made a good pad choice for the rears. If anyone's interested, I'll check and see what he used. Otherwise, genuine Isuzu pads may be worth getting. If you can get good pads and rotors for $200 total you're doing great - I would have guessed $250 - $300 for those. Swapping the rear rotors and pads is very straightforward (I watched my mechanic do it) and so should only be about 1- 1.5 hrs. labor (if the shop is honest) .

    Are you sitting down...my shop charges only $42.00 an hour for labor and the only people to work on the vehicles are the two owner-operators. I have friends who own BMW motorcycle dealerships and I know they're getting close to $100/hour for labor.

    Still waiting for my OMEs to arrive.

    Sean
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    are just a name for car ones. They are ok rotors but nothing special.

    -mike
  • seanreidseanreid Posts: 152
    Badge-engineering...it's everywhere now. Brembo actually means something in motorcycle brakes - too bad they've been willing to sell their name as a rubber stamp. In that case, I'd recommend the higher end Wagner rotors or NAPA's higher end house brand rotors.

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    Brembo means something special for cars, too, at least for small performance cars. Many of the modified little rice rockets sport Brembo brakes in bright colors behind their open spoked wheels...

    Dunno how it could mean much for truck rotors, but I'll bet they aren't junk. I wouldn't mind Napa, either.

    Paisan, you got a real good deal on front rotors from Pep Boys, right?

    I think if the rotors are less than $75 each, it's probably not even worth turning them and making them thinner and more warp-prone.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Those were rears, paid like $75 each for them. Now that I have access to a distributor for parts, I can get brembos ad some crazy prices I think ~$60/each or something for F/R.

    -mike
  • df2000df2000 Posts: 60
    TireRack sell Brambo rotor for $68 and some pretty good set of pads under $70.And I think you can find brambos even cheape on the Web.
    I use Raybestos PG Plus pads for $28, very little to no dust at all, they were OK on rear for 4yr/50K, store offer lifetime warranty, just bring weared out in and get new one free, change pads easy and take about an hour. I have Pepboys Prostop pad on another car, MAX source of black dust, changed these many times, b/c they just good for 3 yr, for free also (PB used to offer lifetime warranty), they should be made by Raybestos also and kind off similar to pg plus, go figure.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    It seems that ISUZU has a history of rear rotors warping due to over-torque and that leading to highway speed vibrations. Anyone else on this board experience this phenom?? I've had rotors turned by the dealer to reduce warpage, but it didn't eliminate the problem.
  • seanreidseanreid Posts: 152
    I installed the Hidden Hitch on my Trooper this evening (saved from the first 1999 Trooper) and all went fine with the mounting (requires patience, dealing with rusty bolts, etc. - the usual) and then I plugged the Hoppy adapter I saved (from the other Trooper)into the existing Trooper plug (under the rubber grommet and above the tail pipe...but got no juice to the trailer lights). I'll go through the usual tests etc. but I wondered if there was anything quick and easy that my addled mind may have overlooked. Like...is that plug on its own circuit or wired in parallel with the tail lights, etc.? Thanks in advance for any suggestions. I'll start testing tomorrow afternoon.

    By the way, thank you again Mike for that Hidden Hitch suggestion back in 2002. It's such a perfect fit on the Trooper.

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Just got my car hauler trailer back from getting new magnets. $500 :( Bummer. But it's doing well otherwise.

    -mike
  • seanreidseanreid Posts: 152
    I installed the Hidden Hitch on my Trooper this evening (saved from the first 1999 Trooper) and all went fine with the mounting (requires patience, dealing with rusty bolts, etc. - the usual) and then I plugged the Hoppy adapter I saved (from 1999 Trooper 1)into the existing Trooper plug (under the rubber grommet and above the tail pipe...but got no juice to the trailer lights). I'll go through the usual tests etc. but I wondered if there was anything quick and easy that my addled mind may have overlooked. Like...is that plug on its own circuit or wired in parallel with the tail lights, etc.? Thanks in advance for any suggestions. I'll start testing tomorrow afternoon.

    By the way, thank you again Mike for that Hidden Hitch suggestion back in 2002. It's such a perfect fit.

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • seanreidseanreid Posts: 152
    Anyone have any hints? Anything special to know about that plug?

    Cheers,

    Sean
Sign In or Register to comment.