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Isuzu Trooper

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  • Auto zone sells Sea Foam, as well as lots of other stuff. Is there an oil additive expert who can advise per this oil consumption problem?

    I'm not totally sold on Sea Foam, but it comes strongly recommended for clearing engine oil carbon. Thought I'd try it for a while, measure results, and then do the next thing on the list. I'd like to understand what the problem is through working solutions in steps. Sea Foam seems to have helped some, but 800 mi/qt is still unsatisfactory, and it's worse with highway (hi rpm) driving--no real surprise here. I know there's more folks with this problem, I see sooty tail pipes in lots of newer Troopers. So come on, let's see some chatter...
  • Have an 02 4wd "S" with about 27000. up to 2000 miles I used about 1 qt. 1000 miles. after that, I use 1 qt. every 6000 miles with Mobil one oil. I am also running a Alpine Supercharger.... Great power addition.. Many drivers have told me about 3.5 engine oil problems... I guess I got lucky and don't have any oil problems? Trooper has been the best buy for me.. Only vehicle I have owned that, I consider better, is Toyota. Resale value seems to be on the low side but, I don;t plan to sell! Replaced OVM tires with Dueler REVO A/T 265-70-16, what a great tire... improved ride and reduced rear tire-smoking (when supercharger is working) and slipping in the rain.
  • superskeetsuperskeet Posts: 14
    Both of my '99 Troopers were using about 1 quart every 500 miles. I've tried Sea Foam and a few other additives in both the oil and gas and checked the PVC system with no improvement. Then I tried CD2 Oil detergent and my oil consumption improved to 1 quart per 1500 miles within 3000 miles from the time I added it and is still improving. I found it at WalMart and it was less than $3 a bottle. This stuff really works and I highly recommend anyone with oil consumption problems in their Trooper try this first.
  • anthonylanthonyl Posts: 9
    I have about 54K miles on my 99 Trooper. I use Mobil One and use about 1 quart every 5K miles. When I first got it, it used about 1 quart every 3K miles.
  • cin88cin88 Posts: 1
    Did you ever find the problem with this. My trooper (2000) is also doing this. But sometimes I can hit a bump in the road and it will come on. Thanks,
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    How long do you leave the CD2 product in the engine? Do you just put it in there for a few minutes prior to engine oil replacement and use it as a flush? Or is it an additive that stays in for the life of the new oil change?

    Are you currently using Mobil 1 or a standard dino oil?

    I like the sound of the oil consumption reduction you seem to have gotten with it. i think I'll give it a try as well. I'm running Mobil 1 and have in my 99' since I got it. It now has 79000+ miles on it, and runs very well; very dependable transportation. Very solid feel and no rattles or squeeks except for the rear door jiggling some times.
  • superskeetsuperskeet Posts: 14
    It's an oil additive that's added every 2000 miles according to the directions. I ran it for 2000 miles and changed the oil. I'm about 1500 miles into the second bottle now and plan on doing another oil change at 2000 miles, then just run my regular oil thereafter and use the CD2 every 4th or 5th oil change to keep it cleaned out. Major improvement by the end of the first bottle and still getting better on the second bottle. Right now after 3500 miles of CD2 I'm using 1 qt per 1500 miles. Here's a product description:

    "CD-2 Oil Detergent frees sticky lifters, valves, and rings to quiet noisy engines. Dissolves sludge, carbon, and gum to extend engine life. Cleans all internal engine parts for more pep and power. Protects critical engine parts during high speed or stop and go driving."

    Like I said in my previous post, I tried everything and CD2 is the only one that loosened up the sludge to free up the oil holes that are clogging.
  • superskeetsuperskeet Posts: 14
    Oh yeah, I use standard oil, usually Havoline.
  • :sick: My 1988 Trooper was idling low and stalling at intersections before yesterday. On my way to work, exiting the off-ramp, my trooper died. It didn't want to start and when it did it was knocking. Sounded like it was missing or exhaust leak, puttered. (I didn't drive it.) Hours later, after it cooled down, I tried to start it again and it was the same. I had a major tune-up a couple of months ago and easily passed smog test. It also has oil and coolant. Is this going to be a major problem $$$? :confuse: :cry:
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    What engine is that? Is it an Isuzu 4cyl. or GM 3.1L V6?
    ..
    How many miles since your last timing belt change? Do you have good spark on all cylinders? Is your catalytic converter failed and clogging the exhaust pipe? These are items where a single part failure could cause the engine to act up the way you describe.
    ..
    I cannot guess the cost of repair without more information, could be very low cost to swap a part yourself or quite high cost.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Sounds like the engines TOAST! I had a 1988 and the rebuild was $2500. Turned out it wasn't worth it, it lasted about a year or so and I had to more money in before I finally gave up and ditched it. Mine had the 4 cylinder, if you have the 6 cylinder GM version, you might get lucky.
  • chadechade Posts: 14
    93 LS major squeeling for 30 seconds when I start her. anyone have and idea?

    Chad
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    squeeling usually means a rubber sound, so look at your belts. Something may have accelerated their wear like if the battery leaked onto the belts etc..
    ..
    Please post again if the squeel is not a rubber sound, if metallic squeeling then it could be bearings in an accessory such as the alternator etc..
  • vbonnetvbonnet Posts: 1
    Can you sent me via EM the picture of the range sensor because I couldnot find it
    Thank you very much
    Alex
  • rspeicherrspeicher Posts: 2
    I'll update and second this. Merlin at St. Charles is fantastic. I did a full set of pads on my '99 Trooper with 68.5k mi this weekend. Very easy. I did not change or turn the rotors as they were nearly perfect. I even called Merlin to ask about the 2 grease types, and he was happy to help.

    I had probably 25% life left on the stock pads, and zero dust, so the OEM's are the way to go. Cost about $20 more total than aftermarket for the full set of 4. Big deal.

    I did have a lower caliper pin on the rear that was stuck, likely due to heat. The caliper hadn't been floating, so the wear on the pad was tapered. Had to sand out the hole and grease it well. They use a different gold looking grease on the rear now instead of the black. Probably a heat issue found over time, I'm guessing. All is well now and I'm good for another 75k.

    Also put Monroe Reflex shocks all around. Wow. It still rides like a truck over bumps, but zero floating and nose diving. Way more solid in the curves. Rides at 80 on the highway like it's standing still. The stock Tokico's were completely dead.
  • yngveyngve Posts: 12
    Yet another related question, if the problem is the oil control rings, wouldn't a ring job fix it? It seems like long term this would be a safer (and if you use Synthetic, cheaper) alternative to just living with the burning. Has anyone tried this?

    I got my seafoam at CarQuest, I think Napa carries it too. Dunno if it's worked thus far - truck's been down in Vegas with the wife for 2 weeks.

    SYJ
  • lateritelaterite Posts: 2
    Greetings,

    I have a 1996 Trooper with 112k miles. When driving at highway speeds, say 40+ mph, there is a distinct buzz that comes from within the dash near where it meets the windshield (at least to my ears while driving). Most of the time it will stop if I let off the throttle, but sometimes it will carry on even after I do this.

    It is a very odd medium-frequency, plastic-metallic sound if that makes any sense. The frequency stays constant once it starts, that is, it doesn't get faster/louder as RPMs increase or decrease. It just carries on until I get down to street speeds or ease off the throttle.

    Has anyone else experienced this? Could it be something loose at the firewall? Maybe the throttle cable isn't all the way secure and is vibrating against something? Overall driveability and performance don't seem to be affected and the truck runs like a top otherwise.

    Thanks,
    -Mark
  • Substantially more expensive than the oil additive options, but still there as a last resort. If I don't see improvement with the CD2, then a ring job is the next card to play--it certainly gets at the root cause. I can't verify if the CD2 works yet--have gone 500 miles with no change in oil consumption. I'll try it a while longer, because I get sweaty when I think of plunking down 2 Gs for a ring job.

    One obvious but important note when checking your oil--make sure your Trooper is consistently on level ground. It makes a big difference in dipstick level.
  • superskeetsuperskeet Posts: 14
    Go at least 2000 miles with the CD2 before you judge it. I saw my consumption go to 1000 miles per quart after the first 2000 miles, then to 1500 miles per quart after 3000 miles. I changed my oil after he initial 2000 miles and added another bottle of CD2 at that time. Keep us posted on your results.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Well my problem still isn't fixed...however the transmission guy I took it to immediately said you have an electrical problem and recommended someone else, the next guy said everything looks good from the outside, but I cannot tell without the right equipment...he recommended another guy...who in about an hour said the problem looks like it is in this solenoid above the front axle (which I have seen as a common problem in Rodeo Forums).

    The last 2 guys both said this is common, there is a service bulletin for it (none that I have seen) and it should be easy to fix...without much time looking. My Isuzu dealer spend 4 trips...did nothing and then said your tires are too big.

    I wish there was some recourse because either the dealer has morons working for it or they are lying outright. These independent mechanics were all over it instantly, didn't bill me for diagnosis or necessary repairs and seem to be taking steps to fix it.

    My dealer took several trips, $300 parts/labor and only to be turned away and told not to bring my truck back because they cannot find anything wrong.
  • grayarea1grayarea1 Posts: 1
    1997 Trooper S, 5-SPEED M/T.
    When I put the truck into Reverse --> No reverse lights.
    Going thru the gears, when I get to 3rd --> Reverse lights come on.
    3rd to Neutral --> Reverse lights off.
    Neutral to 4th --> Reverse lights back on.
    4th to 5th --> No reverse lights.

    I assume something is wrong at the Reverse Light Switch on the tranny housing. Anyone know the fix? (Has anyone seen or heard of this prob?)
  • tbentleytbentley Posts: 3
    My 1999 Trooper started this same thing yesterday. Are you sure it is the Manifold Gasket?
  • chadechade Posts: 14
    I now have a new issue with my 93 trooper LS. the cable on my window regulator
    (rear passenger) got tangled up. I removed the motor and to my surprise you cannot just roll the cable back up. do I need a new regulator? anyone, anyone?

    thanx a million.

    chad
  • yngveyngve Posts: 12
    I guess my question was whether, even as a last resort, it would fix the problem. I know that Isuzu was replacing shortblocks as the warranty fix for the problem - doesn't this seem like overkill if re-ringing would work? Has anyone tried a ring job, and if so, did it stop the oil consumption?
  • calf1calf1 Posts: 14
    The range sensor is under the car behind a metal shield located approximately below the floor shifter, you have to get under the car to see it, the dealer replaced it for me, so I don't really know exactly what it looks like. After the dealer found the real problem and before the actual replacement part arrives,
    what I was able to do was to shift back and forward a few time and make sure the appropriate lite on the dash turned on matches with the actual mechanical gear selection, and the transmission will shift properly, you may want to give it a try to confirm. Hope this helps. Please indicate your EM address next time.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    After a year...a failed attempt to get the problem fixed under warranty and the dealer telling me to go jump in a lake...I think it is resolved.

    My mechanic called me today and said he has indeed fixed it. He said that while the dealer was correct in saying the front drivetrain speed sensor wasn't working properly (which they charged me $400 to replace)...however it wasn't the sensor, it was the external electrical connectors into the housing. He cleaned those with a wire brush and blew out my vacuum hoses.

    He reports it works like a champ now...all for the whopping price of...$180. Not counting $400+ at the dealer, serveral trips there too. I went independent...first place diagnosis - electrical problem, no charge and recommendation, second place, could not find it, no charge and recommendation, 3rd place done.

    Now I need to find a place to go offroading this weekend and really make sure the transfer case still deliver real power after driving it for almost a year improperly engaged.
  • On recent trips in my 98 Trooper, I've noticed a loud sound like breathing or weezing coming from the left front, most often on cold startup. It seems to go away as the engine gets warm and does not affect the performance of the engine or transmission. Can anybody guide me here on what to look for?

    On a positive note, I've got to say I'm impressed with the off-road ability of the TOD Trooper. I got into a 4WD road--one I couldn't back out of--and just had to grimmace hard as we crawled to the bottom of a rocky, steep 200 yard stretch, then thinking, yeah now I've got to get back out the same way! Just a touch on the 4WD button engaged the TOD, which pulled us up the road without so much as a slip. Though I don't go looking for such terrain, it's very satisfying to know the Trooper has this capability.
  • My mechanic thinks the ring job should correct the problem. I agree that the short block fix seems like overkill, unless the oil problem went too long and fried other engine components, or maybe one did not know if other damage occurred. I'm going to run these additives for another few thousand and see if they can improve things, then make a decision on a ringer. I did not see drastic improvement after running SeaFoam for about 1000 miles (500 to maybe 700 miles/qt), so I switched to the CD2. Will watch closely for about 2000. Maybe it's too far gone.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Congrats sbcook on getting that TOD fixed, that was a looong time in coming! Hope it works great when you get in the outback with it. :)

    'Vader Sound' is normal for the 98' engine, don't worry about it. I think it's someway related to the EGR or PCV valve, but who cares. My 99' does the same thing and has for several years now, ever since I got it. My 01' on the other hand does NOT make this sound, but there are slight differences in the 2 engine designs. Relax and enjoy the ride in your TOD equipped Trooper. It still amazes me the amount of technology built into these machines, and the crazy low prices they are at now. :D

    It looks like the ring job is going to be your best bet. I've put some CD-2 in my 99' to see if it change my oil consumption any or not. I typically use a quart about every 1500-2000 miles depending on the type of driving I'm doing. ;)
  • coastie007coastie007 Posts: 33
    I have a 01 Trooper with 49,000 miles on it. I think I am going to be changing the spark plugs b/c from what I hear it had better be done. I'll also probably throw in a K&N filter today too and I hope that this will perhaps help a little with gas consumption and my main problem . . . oil consumption too, but I am not sure as this isn't really isn't my area. I am a little concerned with how much oil my truck seems to burn off in just 3000 - 3500 miles. I find myself having to change it at 3000 or else I could be causing problems. Is there any suggestions as to what I could do? I have read on "rings" and "blocks" and "EGR" but don't understand it all. I don't know what I would go into the dealer saying or asking for under warranty either.
    I have no idea what direction to start in at all. Dealer? Independant mechanic? It's a normal operation? Maybe some kind of self-testing b/c I don't want to pay someone over a $100 to tell me everything is going normal.
    I am going to change my oil myself today and drop in some of that sludge stuff to help clean out the engine before I put in oil. But which oil and what kind of filter are you guys buying for your trucks? Have any of you found a good oil additive to put in with your oil?
    Thanks for any help you guys can give.
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