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Isuzu Trooper

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  • Getting ready to perform 60K service on my '01 LS 2WD, but I'm curious about a couple of things -

    1.) What is the "Extension" (2WD Only) and how can the oil level be checked?

    2.) "Scheduled Maintenance" says to check the power steering fluid every 7500 miles, while the "Severe Service" section recommends changing it every 30K. I've never had it changed. Is that really necessary or advisable?

    Thanks.
  • I would go ahead and do the power steering fluid change if you have made it to 60K miles without trouble, be happy, change the fluid now so not to push your luck. The fluid gets dirty (sample some from the reservoir) from wear and high pressure hydraulic systems can run hot. I use the best power steering fluid I can find. Spend the time to read a half dozen bottles from different brands and with that decide on what's the best power steering fluid. Or call the technical help on oil web pages such as http://www.redlineoil.com to discuss it with a human who makes their living knowing about oil.
    ..
    I had a 1984 Trooper, never changed the power steering fluid, at 160K miles the steering gear needed to be changed.
    ..
    On my 1995 when I had it, and on my 2001 I change out the power steering fluid every 30K.
    ..
    Changing the power steering fluid requires removing a hose.
  • russlarussla Posts: 74
    Sorry about your leak, I can't speak for 02, but 2000s don't have a fill tube.

    Worst case you have no fluid, and should specify a flat bed, best case, the leak is minimal, and you can drive it to a shop. can you approximate how much fluid is lost?

    if you crawl under, and have a look, you'll see whether or not there's a fill tube, or just a fill plug for the tranny.

    Since you'll be taking it to a shop for the tranny service,you might as well do a Drain and Refill on the TOD, it takes Tranny fluid also.

    have a great day
  • I got a problem hopefully one of you can help me out with, I got a 90 Trooper v6 and it starts up strong but as soon as it warms up it starts choking and dying then dies and wont restart til it cools down... no i would like to be able to drive the thing for more than 15 minutes so if someone has and idea what might be wrong i would love to know. I took off the cat thinking maybe it was clogged it has a small coulant leak but its always full when i take it out and it never over heats. so yeah help would be great.
  • I got a 88 Isuzu trooper 2 from my dad.It ran for a while then it started sputering when u push on the gas and then stalling.
    Then when u start it,and push on the gas to try to keep it running it would stall.Now it wont start at all.I replaced the filter and still nothing.When under the hood after trying to start,U dont smell any gas,I checked the fuel line and theres gas in it ??????
    Im lost !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    HELP ME PLEASE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • russlarussla Posts: 74
    One place to start; Ensure the coolant temp sensor is working properly, it sounds as if it's not leaning out the richer cold start fuel air ratio once it warms up.

    Also, there is a possiblity that your injectors are terribly worn, and just spit too much fuel to idle a warm engine.

    (comments assuming you have fuel injection)I don't remember if those older GM v6s were throttle bodies with chokes or not, if so, you'd want to make sure the choke opened once warm.

    Regards
  • Was the 88 Trooper sitting a long time? I suspect a gummed up carburator. If you are good at taking things apart, cleaning and getting them to work again, take the carb apart, clean out every bit of it, look for clogged pinholes, stuck float etc..
    ..
    Also, change the fuel filter and perhaps the fuel in the tank should be drained and replaced. There might also be a filter inside the tank that could be clogged.
    ..
    Please post what you find.
  • Yes it was sitting for 3 years.And there's no gas getting to the carb.I have changed the fuel filter already.I'll try dainning the gas tank then i'm going to replace the pressure regulator then fuel pump. Does that sound right ?
    Thanks
  • df2000df2000 Posts: 60
    You can use "turkey buster" method. Not from you kitchen, buy your own. Just suck old fluid from reservoir and refill, drive couple hundred miles and repeat, no hose disconnect required. I use atf in ps.
  • I just bought a 2002 LS w/ an automatic that doesn't seem to want to stay in overdrive on the interstate. Before I take it in to use the factory warranty (i hope anyway), are there any suggestions I can try? I've played around with the winter mode and sport mode, doesn't help. thanks
  • How many miles on your Troop? When was the ATF last changed? Old (more than 50K) worn fluid can cause a host of shifting problems. It's also possible that the Mode Sensor switch is faulty. If so, a good cleaning might well cure the problem. Run a search on this board and you'll find a lot of directly related info.

    Dave
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 838
    Will it stay in O/D at say 50-60 mph but just not say 65 mph or higher? I have a 2000 LS Trooper (only came in LS with Auto that I know of. Only time my will not go into O/D is the first couple of miles. Once the tranny is warmed up it will go into O/D okay. Never had a problem on the interstate. You might try disconnecting the power for 5-10 minutes from the battery. Just in case the computer has stored some weird code that is causing the behavior, this 'might' clear it out. BTW, mine is 2 wheel drive. Is you Trooper 2 or 4 Wheel drive? If 4 wheel drive, do you have TOD on or off? Just curious.

    BTW, If I recall correctly, the 120,000 mile, 120 month powertrain warranty was only for the original purchaser and could only be transferred to a family member. If the Trooper was sold/transferred to anyone else, then the basic warranty was 36 months/50 or 60,000 miles.
  • 36k thats why I can't understand the problem? No leaks, not that you can check the tranny oil level! Thanks for the help just the same.
  • No to any speed with the O/D, its 2wd and in cherry shape. I had a friend ask me if they were still making them, he thought it was new. I'm thinking that it hasn't been driven enough to keep it working smoothly. Before I try the warranty i'll take it for a long interstate drive and see if that cures the problem. Thanks as well for the help.
  • With only 36K on the Odo, power flush the tranny fluid! "Drain n' Fill won't to it. 36K is about when my tranny problems started. I did the D&F at 30K, and it solved nothing. F&F'd at 47K, and life is good again. Do it, and be happy.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,875
    Here's another flush/don't flush post:

    amigo_john, "Isuzu Trooper" #8070, 30 Jun 2003 6:46 am

    Mileage seems to be a factor in the flushing debate.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • russlarussla Posts: 74
    I understand that the 2nd Gen trooper has a GM tranny in it.

    is it feasible to get a salvage yard Transmission fill tube, from an equivilant GM vehicle and adapt it to our troopers?

    I wouldn't mind climbing under to pull the drain plug, but would like the convinence of checking and filling from the top if such a proposition was feasible.

    What other GM vehicles was this tranny used in?

    Thanks in advance
  • russlarussla Posts: 74
    Never mind, I Found a post that listed them by name

    Regards
  • 1996 trooper :mad:
    Okay, the 4 wheel drive light keeps flashing while driving. It's not in 4wd though. The trooper quit the other day and i had a tow truck bring it home. The starter died so i replaced that and now that i can drive again, the light keeps flashing. Any suggestions?
  • mpelmpel Posts: 23
    OK. I've got a silly one.
    I thought it would be a snap to change a headlamp on my '99. But after monkeying with it for a while, I couldn't remember if it twists loose or just pops straight out - either way I couldn't get it! Is there a trick or am I just that much of a weenie?!?
  • I believe my current issue is a quirk! I've read somewhere that check engine code P1860 can be either a bad voltage regulator in the alternator, which causes a voltage spike read by the computer as transmission fault, or, dirty contacts on the transmission control module causing a fault.

    I'm new to Isuzu ownership. This '96 is my first and has been displaying check engine and check trans for about three months. Runs fine, shifts fine, no problems.

    I ran with a volt meter attached to my power outlet for about a week, hoping to catch a glimse of a voltage spike to 18-20 volts. But never saw anything above 15v. Had a trusted tranny shop owner say "yes" to the previously mentioned diagnoses, but, said he doesn't do electrical evaluations unless they are "in" the tranny. Stated the TCM is outside the tranny and should take it to the dealer. I hate taking cars to dealers!

    Questions:
    Does this sound reasonable?
    Where is the transmission control module located?
    If located, can I clean the contacts myself?

    Any assistance is greatly appreciated.
  • Just replaced the headlights in my wife's '99 Trooper with SilverStars. Very pleased.

    The bulb twists about a quarter turn to unlock, and then pulls out. Should be really easy.

    -Michael
  • Had my first Flush & Fill done on my wife's Trooper at 65K miles. Prior to that, I hadn't done anything with the tranny fluid. In fact, it is the first time I've ever had the ATF fluid changed in any AT car I've owned.

    Her driving is all severe service, short distance driving. We maybe take it on a 500+ mile road trip twice a year. We use it to tow my 5,000lb boat a lot (which it does superbly).

    I wasn't experiencing any shifting problems, or tranny problems to speak of. I was wary of having the fluid changed and several co-workers recommended against doing anything.

    My wife and I recently decided she still loves her Trooper and we'll continue to keep it for at least 2-3 more years, if not longer. So I made the decision to go ahead and have the ATF fluid changed.

    Paid about $100 at a local Goodyear to have it done. I'm happy to report no problems with the tranny. Still drives just as it did before.

    I suppose at 75K miles I'll have them change the center diff and front/rear axle oils as those have never been serviced either. But I have checked the fluid levels in all of those. Fluid looked clean and smelled fine. No visible moisture intrusion or contaminants.

    -Michael
  • I have an 86 trooper and the fuel, battery, and brake light just came on any ideads would be apprcatied.
  • hey all......i have a 96 trooper...the best thing i have ever bought...i got an oil change about 1000 miles ago...a few days ago i heard a ticking...and i have heard this before...i filled with gas and checked my oil..and didnt see any...i and not a car person..electronic not cars...so i freaked..my fiance works at a oil changing place..so i took it to them..ans she told me that it was down 1qrt and 1/2..now i asked the guy who..checked it...he said that my lifters where bad..that is why it is ticking and i am burning oil..i DONT trust him at all...or where she works..the whole company is not trust worthy..people have come back and said that there oil filter has just fallen out..or that it was just hand tight..anyways..so i went to car quest today..and i was looking for some..dura lube..and they told me that i need to replace my engign that it is week and pretty much shot..the oil pressure doesnt go over the 85 mark..just a bit under..and he told me that the ticking nosie was a knock..and it would be cheaper to but a new engign then to fix the one i have...i was like whoooooo...i just bought this thing on dec 12th...and i have put in ALOT of money into it allready....i still need a egr and caddleic convertor..but other wise its my baby...that sound dumb but..i love the thing..i dont know about the egr if it is a sensor or the wire to it and the this is so hard to find and pricey..i dont know what to do..now this hole ticking or knocking thing has throwen me for a loop..........please i need so sugestions thanks
  • Can anyone help, I have a 96 trooper duty lwb, that whenever it feels like it the 4 wheel drive light goes on,(ususally when I have turned the engine off then started again) whilst 2 wheel drive is selected, If I don't then select 4 wheel drive it is really rough, sometimes it can be a couple of days before it goes back to normal. (the light goes out when idling in 2 wheel drive or I don't drive it for a few days) any suggestions? so frustrating. :mad:
  • Hi, im looking at a '00 Isuzu trooper w/75k on it for a first car. I need the extra space for a bunch of crazy friends, and beach/soccer... would this be a good fit for me? is reliability a big issue? Safety is an important issue with any first year driver. Please help!!! Advice strongly needed. Thanks!
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    sounds close to this.....hope it helps.

    4WD Indicator - Remains Lit in 2WD Mode


    BULLETIN NUMBER:
    SB96-04-L006

    ISSUE DATE:
    NOVEMBER 1996

    GROUP:
    ELECTRICAL

    1996 TROOPER (UX) AND 1996 RODEO (UC) 4WD INDICATOR
    REMAINS LIT IN 2WD MODE

    APPLICABLE VEHICLES

    1996 Trooper (UX) models and 1996 Rodeo (UC) 4WD models.

    SERVICE INFORMATION

    Some affected vehicles may experience a condition in which the 4WD indicator remains lit when driving in 2WD mode. This condition may be the result of an open or short in one or both vacuum solenoid valves (VSVs) of the Shift-On-The-Fly System VSV assembly, caused by moisture/water intrusion through the electrical connector(s).

    To repair this condition, check for an open or shorted VSV (blue and gray). If both VSVs check out OK, pack dielectric compound grease (Part No. 2-90067-600-0) into the VSV connectors and harness connectors to seal them from moisture/water intrusion, then proceed with further diagnostics. If one or both VSVs are open or shorted, replace the VSV assembly with a new assembly (Part No. 8-97101-858-1), then pack dielectric compound grease into the VSV connectors and harness connectors.






    This Service Bulletin provides detailed instructions to check for an open or shorted VSV and to replace the VSV assembly, if required; and to seal the VSV connectors and harness connectors from moisture/water intrusion with dielectric compound grease. Figure 1 provides illustrated details for this repair.

    SERVICE PROCEDURE

    REMOVAL

    Shift-On-The-Fly Skid Plate^ Remove two 14 mm flange bolts securing skid plate to front axle and remove skid plate.

    Electrical Connectors^ Remove retaining clips from harness connectors. Disconnect harness connectors from connectors of blue and gray VSVs on existing VSV assembly.

    IMPORTANT! Use care when the removing of the retaining clips that hold the electrical connectors in place. Retaining clips must be reinstalled.

    MEASUREMENT

    ^ Check each VSV of VSV assembly for an open or short by measuring resistance across terminals in VSV connector. Nominal resistance is 42 ohms.

    ^ If no open or short is found in either VSV, existing VSV assembly is OK. Pack dielectric compound grease (Part No. 2-90067-600-0) into VSV connectors and harness connectors, filling each terminal cavity halfway. Connect harness connectors to VSV connectors, install retaining clips on harness connectors, and install skid plate to front axle. Continue with further diagnostics using Page 36 of appropriate 1996 Electrical Troubleshooting Manual (ETM).

    ^ If an open or short is found in one or both VSVs, existing VSV assembly is defective. Replace VSV assembly, then pack VSV connectors and harness connectors with dielectric compound grease. Refer to following steps for this replacement procedure:


    REMOVAL

    VSV Assembly^ Disconnect three vacuum hoses to each VSV (blue and gray) on existing VSV assembly.

    ^ Remove two 10 mm nuts securing VSV assembly to studs of front axle and remove VSV assembly.


    INSTALLATION

    VSV Assembly^ Pack dielectric compound grease (Part No. 2-90067-600-0) into connectors on new VSV assembly (Part No. 8-97101-858-1), filling each terminal cavity halfway.

    ^ Mount new VSV assembly onto studs of front axle and secure with two 10 mm nuts. Torque nuts to 68 lb/in (8 Nm).

    ^ Connect three vacuum hoses to each VSV.

    Electrical Connectors^ Pack dielectric compound grease into harness connectors, filling each terminal cavity halfway.

    ^ Connect harness connectors to VSV connectors and install retaining clips.

    Shift-On-The-Fly Skid Plate^ Mount skid plate to front axle and secure with two 14 mm flange bolts. Torque bolts to 20 lb/ft (26 Nm).


    When repairs are completed, check for proper operation of the 4WD indicator. Start the vehicle and move the transfer control lever from 2WD to 4WD and back, ensuring that the indicator lights when the transfer control lever is in the 4WD position.

    PARTS INFORMATION






    Use the appropriate new labor operation.






    FLAT RATE MANUAL INFORMATION

    Labor time includes 0.1 administrative time allowance. Use Sublet Code B2 ($1.35) for reimbursement of dielectric compound grease used in this repair.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    You should search this forum for tips on topics like oil pressure, lifters, etc; a lot of discussion on this topic. Not unusual to have noisy lifters if engine is older and not regularly serviced with good oil, so search forum for advice. Hope this helps.
  • All - I am reposting this over here since there is so much more action: Still need help..

    Please all - I need suggestions. Someone close to me idled my 2002 Trooper in a closed garaged for about 3 hours - at best guess.. - Back from the police - here's whats wrong: TOD check light on - feels like 4wd is engaged. Check engine light on but went off after getting onto the freeweay, lots of connectors on the left side (exhaust side) melted. I think is the rustproofing on the bottom is fried and just flakes off. The parking brake is stuck on - handle just flops up and down, a friend yanked something underneath and it went off, but pulling it up again got it stuck and flopping again.

    It has 52000, so its still under the extended powertrain warranty.

    What should I do??? Take it straight to the dealer? - they'd tell me it was abused and not cover anything right? All it did was idle and get very very hot - so hot some of the plastic rivets in the fender melted into stringy stuff. Does anyone know what can really be affected by this and how best to get into selling shape?

    I personally can never drive again - so its a matter of paying off the loan balance - fixing for as cheap as I can - and selling it. Can I fix some stuff so the dealer will check the major stuff under warranty??? I just confused - need help. Any thing would be appreciated.
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