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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • I will try that! thanks I owe you one!
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I only have 45k on my 1999 trooper...hard miles though. The 4wd system has been unable to drive on dry pavement for a year or so now (due to well complained about TOD clutch issues on this forum) and it gets about 9 mpg due to the front drivetrain spinning all the time.

    I can't decide if I want to live with it, fix it or get new? I went to a toyota dealer and sat in a new FJ. They are nice, but after reading about it...I pretty much have an awesome 4 wheeler now.

    The problem is that in its given state, it is just a station car. I don't trust if for long highway rides, half expecting that the front drivetrain will drop out with prolonged use. Also with 9 mpg I have to fill it up all the time.

    It is definitely cheaper to keep it or fix it, but something new sounds nice too. I am guessing at least $1500 to fix at an independent shop and $4000-4500 in trade?

    If it is fixed...how sure can I be that they did a good job? I am itching to go wheelin' again and want to trust my rig.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I hear yah, I may buy my Trooper back from my dad to go wheeling soon. Why not keep it for wheeling and get something to drive to the station?

    Not much out there for offroading these days, nothing really grabs me other than an old cherokee perhaps.

    -mike
  • i recently broke my passenger side mirror. it is heated and power folding. ive heard that they dont make them after market and am having trouble finding them elsewhere. Does anybody have a good place to look...or maybe one off a parts trooper? thanks :(
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
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  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Has anyone tried the White Lightening 'chip' on their Trooper yet? It claims great mpg improvement, and lots more power.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    This may be a completely different problem. I had a similar problem with my 01' Trooper. I would get a 'clunk' when releasing the brake and taking off from a dead stop. Turned out to be a transmission mounting bolt was loose, and the transmission would bump the undercarriage when it torqued up for take-off. The dealer tightened the mounting bolts and the problem was resolved!!
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    Good morning.

    The other morning I ran my Trooper, which sits a lot of the time now. The heater blower motor wouldn't come turn on. The fuses under the hood all appear fine. Could there be an in-line fuse? Or, is there another fuse box inside the truck?

    If not, does anyone know how I would get started replacing the blower motor?

    Thanks in advance.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    It seems like a fitting on the passenger side has rusted away, and my rear bumper trim where it wraps around the side of the truck is hanging loose. I think I can blame by 12 year old for standing on it, but only so much: a lot of rusted metal fell out when I fussed with it.

    Has anyone ever replaced this fitting?
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    Finally, after all these years, I have the surging idle problem that most folks chalk up to a bad intake manifold gasket. Anyone care to take a guess at the repair cost? Could a non-dealer shop that I trust perform the repair, or does it take a dealer?

    My last three posts are good arguments for not letting a truck sit for too long. All those things that can go wrong, do go wrong!
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    I've been living with a sporadic ABS light for a while now. I'm guessing its a sensor. Has anyone dealt with one of these before?

    Okay, four posts in a day is my limit. Thanks for listening.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    bsmart1, I can't find any reference on the web to such a chip. Where did you find it?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, given the number of glitches, and the erratic electrical system of the trooper, I would suggest a voltage check of the alternator before replacing anything other than a fuse. If you are getting a constant 13.6 Volt reading (or 14 V) then your alternator is probably OK. While the voltmeter is hooked up, check the load capacity of the system by watching the voltmeter as you turn on any of the electrical systems (lights,etc;) to see if the alt can maintain output.
    You can also check the fuses with a continuity or ohm meter while you are at it to see if they are OK. Then check voltage at the blower motor or relay at least, to see if it is getting current but still not working. Good luck, one owners opinion.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    I would do this at the battery terminals with the engine running a little better than idle?

    It's a good idea, I'll give it a try. I did have to replace the battery in January, but I figured that was mostly because I left a light on inside the vehicle and ran it to nothing. It wouldn't take a charge from an external charger. It had very little voltage.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    OK, so I found the blower fuse in the inside fuse box (when all else fails, look at the owner's manual - Doh!). The fuse is fine.

    So, I think I need to take the blower assembly apart. I'm hoping it's not something to be got at from the inside of the truck, but rather that the sheet metal beneath the windshield wipers is the access point... I'm going to give it a shot, anyway.

    If you know something different, put me on the right track, please. Thanks.
  • I'll have to climb under and take a look. I hope it's as simple as that.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    After looking around for awhile, I found that the blower motor bolts in to the bottom of an air box right over the passenger's feet. I took the glove box side of the dash apart to figure out where it was, but I didn't have to. You can get to it without disassembling anything.

    A mouse or chipmunk or something had build a nest in it. I have to try to figure out where it got all the insulation - maybe from underneath the hood...
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    So I went and test drove a FJ and a used TLC. The FJ is very fun to drive, sounds/feels like a jeep and doesn't sway as much as the trooper.

    However while everything I have read says this is equipped as a serious offroader...the visibility is terrible. One of the great features of the trooper offroad is that I feel like I can place any of the tires where they need to go and I have good over-hood sight lines. The FJ is seriously lacking in that department. It is also much smaller inside the cabin.

    The TLC was great...a used one is a worthwhile option...most of the ones I have seen have about 50-60K on them...which means that the fuel pump, timing belt/chain or some mid-life major repair is around the corner.

    I am going to take it to a local shop and scope out the TOD clutch repair before I make any other moves.

    It is still a snowcat, I went out today and was driving around stuck people all over the place...8-10 inches of ice and slush.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I may actually be selling/trading in my 2004 Armada. Not sure if you had any interest in it. May need to go with a Chevy/GMC 2500HD w/Isuzu Diesel engine to tow the Cigarette Boat. Keep in touch as things might work out if you are interested in the Ramada.

    -mike
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    I'm betting you could repair it and buy a new Corolla for less than the price of an FJ.

    I wonder if they could put a non-TOD transfer case in it? Probably not, but then you could have a serious off roader and a high MPG road car.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I don't think it would be a problem, grab the transfer case and/or trans from a pre-99 Trooper, the trucks were essentially the same from 92->02

    -mike
  • steelpicksteelpick Posts: 12
    Hello,

    I have a question. A few months back my check engine light came on and my repair guy said it was for the EGR Valve. Yesterday, I replaced the valve myself, but the check engine light stayed on. I went to AutoZone and they cleared the code and it stayed off for the rest of the day. This morning however, it was back on again. Any ideas?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    did you clean the passageway that the EGR goes into? That is usually jammed with carbon deposits.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    No interest in the Armada, Thanks though. Cigarette boat, rally racing, offroading...you are living the high life up there. Sounds like fun.

    The older transfer case is an interesting idea...I am not sure all the electronics would work out.

    At this point, I am going to get an estimate on fixing it first and take it from there.

    I have no room for a 3rd car...if I did...I would probably park the trooper there, drop the case and try to fix it myself...while I drive a used honda/toyota econobox around. I have to think with the right time and tools I could take it apart or even just replace it myself. Ebay had a transfer case for sale for $199 a while back.

    Anyway, I will keep you posted. If I do sell, I will have a bullbar and lights to sell (I assume it will sell easier if I take them off and put the stock bumper back on?)
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    It was in the ISUZU section on Ebay.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Anyone had to replace or re-cover the seat bottom on your Trooper seats? I'm thinking of switching the Drivers side seat bottom with the Passenger side. The leather on the Driver seat is starting to break down. How big a job is this going to be?
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Where did you get your OME shocks, and what model numbers are required for the Front and Back? If you don't mind saying, what did they cost per shock?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    Do a web search on "OME suspension" and there will be many places to find them. This is the place to read technical details about OME suspensions:
    http://www.arb.com.au/old-man-emu-4x4-suspension.php
    ..
    I purchased the soft version for my 1995 Trooper, used them on that for 100K of its 140K miles before it was rear ended and insurance total loss.
    ..
    I purchased the medium stiff version for my 2001 Trooper also at about 40K miles, now over 100K miles. Since the suspension is "progessive" the medium stiff version is still soft enough on road for me. The comparison between my soft OME equipt 1995 and my medium OME equipt 2001 is that the 2001 has a lighter more responsive or nimble feel, but it is not a huge difference. I have not noticed my OME suspension wearing out on either Trooper. If I had the ordering to do over, I would get the medium again. I hope that helps.
    ..
    I don't remember where I purchased the OME suspension, both times I bought four shocks and the two rear coil springs. They were around $60 an item times 6 items so somewhere close to $360. In my opinion the OME suspension makes the Trooper safer to drive because of the improved control.
    ..
    OME are awesome. They make tuned suspension kits for the older pre- 1992 Troopers also, and the upgrade would make a huge difference in the fun to drive factor.
    ..
    By the way, you will get around 1 to 1.5 inches of additional lift in the rear and should compensate by having the torsion bars up front cranked up a bit to get the Trooper level again for best MPG. I did not want the lift but nothing I can do about it. The 1996 and later Troopers are 1 inch lower on their frames than the 1992 to 1995 so that offsets the lift effect a little. The extra lift should give a little more wheel travel in the rear and the OME shocks can allow the extra travel safely. And with the extra lift your Trooper will look better with larger tires 265/70/16 or 265/75/16 or 275/70/16 will do the trick and not cost too much loss of fuel economy if you buy the lighter weight version of the tire. I have been told that 285/75/16 will fit with the OME suspension but those are going to cost you a lot of MPG because of the energy it will take to spin them up, so unless you are going off road the really big tires are not worthwhile for the looks.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Box... did you install the rear springs yourself, or have a shop do it? If you did them yourself, how did you go about it?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I have a really good Trooper shop. I let them do it.
    ..
    I think that if the rear frame is lifted until the wheels are not supporting weight, but still touching the ground it should unload the springs. Then unbolt and replace.
    ..
    Here's my mechanic send them an email:
    http://www.creechimport.com/contact.html
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