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Isuzu Trooper

1370371373375376388

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  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I also have used the Bridgestone AT Revo tires which are better traction but get noisy after 40K miles.

    How long do you keep tires? I only get 35-40k out of mine in total!

    -mike
  • dmigeldmigel Posts: 15
    UPDATE

    Ok. went to the dealer and he still wanted did not believe that I didn't replace the engine on this. I bought it new and it has never been replaced. He claimed that the pcv valve it needed was what they used on troopers until 1996. I don't know what to make of it all.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 843
    I was going to recommend a version of the Michelin X radial until I read that he wanted a low cost option. I put Michelin Select Radial LT version on my '00 Trooper at about 42,000 when I finally got tired of the original Bridgestones. I turned over 114,000 miles recently and still have quite a bit of tread remaining. That version of the tire is not made anymore, but the LTX, X Radial LT (Sam's and Costo), and XC LT4 at Sears are all similar. But they go for close to $150 each by the time you pay tax and mounting. I'm thinking about replacing mine pretty soon even though I could probably stretch quite a few more miles from them... I doubt I'll keep the Trooper for another 70,000 miles.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    How long do I keep my tires? Well, until the traction seems to go away or other reason they fail. On my 1984 Trooper, the factory set of tires with inner tubes lasted only 24K miles because I drove to Alaska and was sliding the turns all 200+ miles of the gravel Alcan Highway. When I returned after 6000 miles in three weeks the original tires had big flaps of rubber hanging off the front tires and the back tires were nearly bald. The next two sets of tires on the 1984 lasted 90K each. The final set I bought for the 1984 were used ones because my 90K tires sidewalls were giving out and they would not roll straight even though the tread looked OK.
    ..
    Next was my 1995 Trooper. I used the original tires for 60K then bought a set of Goodyear RFA Rotation Free Aquatread tires. I changed the RFA after an emergency stop was not quick enough I felt like I was sliding on ice even though it was dry pavement, I think the rubber got hard. Since then, I keep trying to notice the traction I am getting. I listen at the same uphill right turn from a stop sign into traffic and after a while, like when the tread on my Yokohama Geolalnder G051's reached 1/2 depth they begin to slip noticeably more than when new. The G051's are on my 2001 Trooper. I am watching for a good deal on a great tire between now and the next snow, my deadline for next new tires.
    ..
    I think if you buy truck tires LT type with 16/32 tread they will be heavier and rougher riding and not as good at stopping, but you can go very long miles on them with the tread looking good. I have decided to go for the traction and not price and not try and drive tires as long as possible. So now I change them between 40K and 50K or when I perceive a traction loss, or right before snow, or right before a 4x4 off road event etc..
  • ejr8fanejr8fan Posts: 6
    At the risk of sounding really stupid, where exactly is the EGR valve? I know it's around the manifold, but I looked yesterday and couldn't find it. I'm not real sure what I'm looking for. The only thing I saw with any vacuum hoses was at the back of the manifold near the fire wall and looks like it's going to be a booger to get off. I'm confident that it needs to be cleaned or replaced. I have a 99 trooper that has recently begun using quite a bit of oil and idling rough.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    The linear EGR valve is designed to accurately supply EGR to the engine independent of intake manifold vacuum. The valve Controls EGR flow from the exhaust to the intake manifold through an orifice with a PCM Controlled pintle. During operation, the PCM Controls pintle position by monitoring the pintle position feedback signal. The feedback signal can be monitored with a Tech 2 as "Actual EGR Pos." "Actual EGR Pos." should always be near the commanded EGR position ("Desired EGR Pos."). If a problem with the EGR system will not allow the PCM to Control the pintle position properly, DTC P1406 will set. The PCM also tests for EGR flow. If incorrect flow is detected, DTC P0401 will set. If DTCs P0401 and/or P1406 are set, refer to the DTC charts.
    It has two bolts fastening it to a manifold, with an electrical connector on end.

    for your olds alero post:
    A single flasher internal to the Hazard switch now replaces both the old style Turn Signal Flasher & the Hazard Flasher.

    This new style integral flasher is not independently serviceable.

    Note: Lights flashing at twice the normal rate indicates a bulb is in need of replacement.

    Hazard Switch 10359040
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 843
    Try this from the ISUZU FAQ http://www.icess.ucsb.edu/~greg/rodeo/egr.htm

    FAQ location...find the EGR section

    http://www.isuzufaq.com/
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Its mounted on top of the engine at the back near the firewall, on the passenger side of the engine. Very easy access.
  • Any luck in solving your problem? Please advise repair. I have same problem.
  • Have you been able to fix sporadic ABS light?
  • I have a 1998 Trooper S (118K, owned since new) with an ABS light problem. ABS works when the light is off, but ABS does not work when the light is on. Brake pedal is firm, and brake fluid reservoir is full. Pads are good.

    The diagnostic codes are:

    14 – Abnormal input/output operation
    21 – G Sensor or wiring problem

    Wheel sensors have been cleaned. Right rear wheel sensor had oil on it and oil in sensor cavity indicating real axle seal leak. Front wheel sensors had metal shavings and dirt on them. After cleaning sensors, ABS light still sporadic. Sometimes it is on after starting and sometimes it is not. Tried to access rear axle diagram posted in Msg. #9342, but webpage not found. Can anyone post service manual diagrams & info for rear axle seal replacement?

    Any suggestions for fixing sporadic ABS light other than fixing rear axle seal?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    REMOVAL

    Raise the vehicle.
    Remove tires and wheels.
    Remove brake caliper. Use a wire to attach the brake caliper to the frame.
    Remove brake disc.
    Remove ABS sensor.
    Remove Parking brake assembly.
    Remove the parking brake cable mounting bolts(Behind the back plate)(1).
    Remove the bearing holder mounting nuts.
    Remove axle shaft assembly. NOTE: Be sure not to damage the oil seal.
    Diagram at

    http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/Isuzu Trooper/98isuzuaxle.gif/page/pho- to.html#pic

    ABS codes 21 means disconnected or bad G sensor. 14 is common and could be triggered by 21. I think G sensor is under console, but don't have time to check now.
  • Thanks atfdmike for help. Please identify axle seal (oil seal) for me as it is not identified in diagram.
  • The guys here gave you good advice. You have a very good vehicle that if properly maintained will last for a lifetime under your driving schedule.

    Two points of clarification (and item 3 is a word of caution):

    1. The best defense against oil consumption is checking the oil level every other tankful, changing the oil every 3000 miles, and most important, use a high detergent synthetic motor oil. The best bet is Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40, available at most WalMart locations (no, I don't own Shell or WalMart stock). Buy the oil at WalMart, and give it to your mechanic to change (5.6 quarts according to the Service Manual). The one flaw with this engine is a tendency for the piston oil-return journals to clog. The Rotella T prevents this.

    2. Have the transmission fluid level and condition checked by someone that knows how to properly check this type of transmission (even the dealers don't always know). I found a mechanic that subscribes to AllData and had him look up the procedure to refill the transmission. An inexperienced mechanic will cold-fill the transmission with the engine off, which leaves the transmission underfilled by about two quarts. If you had a mechanic check the vehicle over for you, there is a chance that he didn't know what he was doing and may have left your transmission underfilled (AAA vehicle inspection did this to me). The vehicle will probably run fine, but the fluid will age rapidly if left uncorrected.

    3. If the transmission fluid is dirty and smelly, DO NOT go for a total fluid replacement using a machine (some mechanics really push for this.) This will break loose varnish which could clog parts of the tranny. Regardless of the initial tranny condition, have the pan drained and the transmission filled to the proper level (see above) every six months if really dirty, otherwise every 20,000 miles. Believe it or not, the driving you described (short trips) qualifies as heavy duty use for this tranny. I really don't know when the total replacement would be a good idea, and never without including a tranny filter change.

    Drop me a line if you're ever in Northern California. The Trooper is perfect for exploring the countryside around here.

    And remember to check back here whenever you run into a problem, especially if you get advised to perform an expensive repair. There are a few mechanics who take advantage of inexperienced owners, or just plain don't know what they are looking at.

    Happy motoring! :)
  • dario5dario5 Posts: 2
    Hello all, my very first post here. Proud brand new owner of a 01 Trooper LS 4X4 TOD with all options, with just 67K miles and looking like new. LOVE this thing!

    Question. After spending quite some time reading posts with the word "transmission", I noticed no one has done the actual work, rather trusted it to a shop. I've also learned that this transmission has its tricks, and not many mechanics, even dealers, are familiar with it.

    Well, here I go with the long question:

    I'd like to do it myself. Did someone do this and can offer some advice? Do you need any particular type of oil pump or you can just use one of those you just put in the oil bottle and pump away?

    I plan to drop the pan (actually there are TWO pans, a smaller one in front, and the trans. pan with two bolts in it, apparently one for draining and other for filling. Now what's odd is that both bolts are horizontal, one lower, the other higher: Are those the actual draining/filling bolts?)(I mean, I understand you have to have the engine running, and also move the auto handle thru P N R, etc, then put it on park, let the engine run, and continue filling it up, but, is that all there is to it?)

    The reason for dropping the pan is that I want to replace the filter within. Now, is it necessary to remove the small pan? It has no draining plug, so if it is not removed old oil will remain in the system?

    I really wish I would have the correct procedure to do this and be done with guessing. I don't even know how long it may take me to manually pump 9 quarts of ATF! Or how much torque to apply, or even if there is a torquing sequence to follow.

    I love this Trooper and I want it to last forever so I want the job done perfect. If it is really difficult to do I guess I'll start calling mechanics around to find if they have experience with 2000's Troopers transmission.

    So again, any good advice appreciated!
    Thank you!
    Dario
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    the seal is not shown, I had not noticed. It is in #7, and it is not too hard to replace. Care must be taken when installing new seal so that it goes in correctly. there is a seal installing tool available, but I have used a large socket that seats on the outer seal ring and rubber hammer to tap the new seal in evenly. Easy does it!
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    One guys opinion: The converter pump holds more fluid than the pan, so changing the fluid is really a logarithmic exercise. Removing the small pan will drain a little more fluid, and you can clean the pan, but for practical purposes, removing and changing A/T filter and pan and refilling will only require 4 or 5 qts of fluid. If you really want to exchange all the fluid, you have to consider whether you want to flush and fill the trans, normally done at shop, or just drive the vehicle a while and then do another fluid change, which will add new fluid to the existing mix. First time change, you get about half new fluid, next time change get about what?, 3/4 or so new fluid, etc: my math is not my strong suite.

    You will need a pump of some sort to refill the trans for reasons you have already observed. Just have to do it per below.
    Pan bolt are only 28 ft/lbs of torque.
    When adding or changing fluid, use only DEXRON (R) -III.

    CAUTION: DO NOT OVERFILL. Overfilling will cause foaming, loss of fluid, abnormal shifting and possible damage to the transmission.

    Park the vehicle on level ground and apply the parking brake firmly.
    Check fluid level with engine running at idle. NOTE: Be sure that transmission fluid temperature is below 30 °C (86 °F).
    Move the selector lever through all gear ranges.
    Move the selector lever to "Park".
    Let engine idle for 3 minutes and open the overfill screw (1).
    Add released transmission fluid until it flows out over the overfill screw opening.
    Let engine idle until a fluid temperature between 32 °C (90 °F) and 57 °C (135 °F) is reached, then close the overfill screw (1). Torque: 38 Nm (28 ft. lbs.) NOTE: Check transmission fluid temperature with scan tool. Minimum fluid level 57 °C (135 °F) Maximum fluid level 32 °C (90 °F)

    Here is picture showing what above is referring to:

    http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/Albums/Isuzu%20Trooper/01ATfluidcheck.gif/page/- - - photo.html#pic


    CAUTION: Do not open overfill screw with engine stopped.

    CAUTION: DO NOT CHECK FLUID LEVEL UNDER THESE CONDITIONS:

    Immediately after driving at sustained highway speeds.
    In heavy city traffic during hot weather.
    If vehicle is towing a trailer.
    If the vehicle has been operated under these conditions, shut the engine off and allow the vehicle to "cool" for thirty (30) minutes. After the cool down period, restart the vehicle and continue from step 2 above.
  • dario5dario5 Posts: 2
    Thank you very much, Mike, that's usefull. Would you believe there is not a single dealer selling Isuzus in the whole San Diego? Not one, just Drew Hyundai that still sell parts for Isuzus.

    You know, it's my firm belief that without knowing exactly what we are doing we can do more harm (immediate or even long term harm) than good when we attempt to perform even a simple task like replacing the transmission fluid.

    Today I talked with 2 service advisors from 2 different Isuzu dealers, plus more than 1/2 dozen independent transmission repair shops and two of those oil service stations (like quick oil change, etc.).

    I told them beforehand I like to service my own vehicles as much as I can, and if they would be willing to help me with a few questions. Except couple of morons the rest were very helpful and willing.

    I asked all of them more or less the same questions:

    Is it necessary to remove the small pan?

    Is it a good idea to flush a tranny with under 70K miles in it before replacing the fluid?

    Is the correct oil level higher than the filling plug?

    What's the correct filling procedure?

    What's the correct procedure to check for proper oil level?

    Can this be done with a small manual pump?

    You should see the disparity of answers all these professionals gave me. No one, I mean no one answered the same thing as others.

    So this tells me these french made transmissions must be very durable, reliable and robust, with so many shops doing different things. And this now enforces my idea of getting info from Isuzu: I ordered the shop manual in CD form for $15 including shipping from ebay. If this CD is not what they say it is, I'll freakin buy the $175 Dollars shop manual from Isuzu, and I'll also buy an electric pump to feed the ATF inside the tranny. And while we're at it, do any one recommend any specific type of scanner or device to read OBD faulty codes? Not a 5 or 10 grand, something more realistic, may be under $500?
    Thank you again,
    Dario.
  • Rear axle oil seal replaced and axle assembly & wheel sensor cleaned. ABS light still sporadic after clearing diagnostic codes. Sometimes ABS light is on after starting and sometimes it is not. Codes shown are 14 & 21. Where is G sensor located? Any idea of cost? Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    This G sensor appears to be a very expensive part, but then so is the EHCU. I would check connectors on EHCU and G sensor before replacing (ie: clean terminals and disconnect and connect a couple of times) the sensor itself.
    It appears to be in center console rear of the park brake.
    Did you clear the original codes after you fixed seal? If you did and you are still getting 14 and 21, you really need to check with someone really familiar with that system, as I don't know and can't tell if one code is separate from the other.....to me, it appears one or other could trigger the other code to set. good luck. About the only easy check I could find is to do a resistance check between pins in a connector. If you want that info , email me and I can send it on.

    G-SENSOR
    The G-sensor installed inside the center console detects the vehicle deceleration speed and sends a signal to the EHCU. In 4WD operation, all four wheels may be decelerated in almost the same phase, since all wheels are connected mechanically.
    This tendency is noticeable particularly on roads with low friction coefficient, and the ABS control is adversely affected.
    The G-sensor judges whether the friction coefficient of road surface is low or high, and changes the EHCU's operating system to ensure ABS control
  • Yes, I went through the procedure to clear the codes, jumping terminals #4 & #12 with the ignition off, turning ignition on, then pumping brake pedal 6 times in 30 seconds after entering diagnostic mode, ie. code 12 flashing. Codes did not clear and codes 14 & 21 continued to flash. I will check connectors and will also try to clear codes again.

    Do dealerships have a diagnostic scanner that can determine actual cause of problem, or do they have to use a trial and error procedure to locate cause?

    I will email you re. info for resistance check.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    You might just unhook battery cable from battery for a minute or remove the fuses to the ecm and ehcu for a like period to be sure the codes are cleared.
    Dealerships use a Tech 1 or Tech 2, depending on year, which can also access the history of certain codes that do remember why they set. That does not necessarily apply to all codes, however. In the right hands, they can literally drive the vehicle and monitor what the systems are doing (or not doing). There would likely still be some trial and error (hence cost) since these particular codes could have other causes associated (in other words, the code is not that the EHCU or ECM has lost communication ability or even set a code that indicates it's own failure). Also, dealers like to swap parts first before checking harness connections, etc;, which in this case would be really expensive. One guys opinion.
  • Went to AllDatadiy.com and subscribed. Have printed circuit diagrams, etc. and will continue to resolve. Previously tried disconnecting battery to clear codes. Will display codes and then try to clear.
  • ejr8fanejr8fan Posts: 6
    Ok.....I cleaned the EGR valve, and it NEEDED IT! It had so much carbon built up that the "plunger" was stuck. It's moving freely now. It helped the engine idle at a stop light significantly, and hopefully will help the oil consumption problem. Now, here's my next problem. When I start my trooper, the RPM's surge pretty bad, and even dies sometimes. When I put it in gear, the surging goes away and it drives fine. Any suggestions? Oh yeah, the check engine light is still on.
  • ejr8fanejr8fan Posts: 6
    Oh...one more thing. There is a "whistle" under the hood that I thought was my serpentine belt. I changed the belt and that wasn't it. I'm no mechanic, but it sounds like a vaccum leak. I've been reading up and I'm thinking it may be a leaky intake manifold gasket or bad hose on the fuel pressure regulator bypass. I'm probably way off, so any advice would be appreciated. Could a "shade tree mechanic" replace the intake manifold gasket if need be?
  • serranotserranot Posts: 113
    I can't imagine why the EGR would affect oil consumption. The EGR just introduces exhaust gas into the intake manifold. There is likely no relation to the oil consumption. Nonetheless, I wish you luck.

    My Trooper burns a ton of oil right now. I'm trying Sea Foam in the crankcase. If that doesn't work, I'm going to try the Rotella oil.

    Regards,
    Tom
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Not sure why, but it's a fairly well documented fact that a dirty EGR Valve on Troopers causes excessive oil consumption.

    -mike
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Sounds to me like a leaking intake gasket. Not too hard to change, have done it once on 3.2 engine. You could try spraying something non flammable like CRC around the gaskets until the motor or whistle change RPM or sound. That is an easy way to start. Of course, you should check other vacuum lines too, so that you eliminate other possibilities. One guys opinion!
    Good luck.
  • jjpollockjjpollock Posts: 2
    My 2000 trooper was in a wreck recently and the rear axle assembly was bent on the drivers side. In looking to repair this, the shop that looked at it recommended completely replacing the rear assembly (very expensive). When I called the wrecking yard, I was told that the rear axle housing disassembles, so it would be possible to just replace the bent housing and axle on one side. Can anyone help me with this topic? I'm looking to do the repairs myself as they seem fairly straightforward, any suggestions would be awesome.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    The rear differential appears to be a casting and the pig can be removed along witht the brakes,backing plates,etc; and axle shafts. I do not see any way to remove one side of tube or the other short of major surgery. It may be that one of the backing plate flanges or tube was bent along with the axle shaft and that is why they recommended changing entire assembly. It really depends on how much damage is obvious and how it is diagnosed. Serious damage to the axle housing itself could have caused the flanges on the end of the axle to be bent or no longer square and concentric to the axle itself.
    On the other hand, if it was just the axle itself that was bent, then replacing the bearings, axle and seal may be enough to fix it. An alignment check of the axle would be necessary to tell for sure. One guys opinion.
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