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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • oldgoat3oldgoat3 Posts: 4
    thanx mike to make clear i do understand the ratio and how it chages as soon as you start the motor. but, tdc is still tdc and both or should i say all three times i have re-done the belt i have completely tore it down. and you can get to the entire set up and just put the vibration damper and rad. back in (so trany lines dont pump fluid al over) and fire it up to check. only the markes on the belt will not line up again the marks on the gears and how they are matched up to the marks on the heads and front cover for the crank gear will line back up when you are on the compeasion stroke at TDC. that is where it is now and dead on right. im thinking that the cams have to be a half tooth advanced in order for the crank to be where "they" want it. im going to head back out and give it hell thanx for the tip on planetisuzu. ....ross
  • I have owned a 1999 trooper 3.5L for 2 years and it currently has 137k on it. My son took it out for a spin and brought it back with a very loud clacking noise coming from the engine. Any ideas? It has to be serious, my real question is - is this motor worth rebuilding? Are there any GM engines I might throw in this thing instead?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    When the timing belt tensioner pusher goes bad, it can sound like a bad rod knock. If you rev the motor over 2500 RPM and it diminishes or goes away, that is a pretty good sign it is the belt and tensioner. It is pretty common, and while it can be a little pricey if you pay someone to do it, It is not a bad job. Good idea to do the water pump and idler pulley and tensioner pulley at the same time. HOpe this helps.
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    I don't think there's much of the demand for the gas version outside of the US (maybe Russia but I wouldn't risk it.) Most (and the Troopers were rare to begin with) had diesel commonrail engines and those you could potentially resell. The EU has outrageous prices for cars and SUVs especially, so any European country would be ok but, again, gas prices are the death sentence for the Trooper unless converted to liquified natural gas, so the Netherlands, Germany or Poland (where this is cheap and common) are safe bets.

    It pays to export RAVs, CRVs, even US Benzes and BMWs and especially Subarus to Europe now. The prices are literally triple on some of these, so even after all the fees (transport being the least of all) you can still make a good profit.
  • ghost329ghost329 Posts: 9
    I'M NEW TO THIS AND HOPING I CAN BE HELPED. LAST MAY MY 99 TROOPER STARTED HAVING ENGINE PROBLEMS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF COLORADO. I WAS TOLD THAT IT WOULD BE BEST TO TAKE IT INTO A MITSUBISHI DEALERSHIP THAT A FRIEND OF MINE HAD GOOD RELATIONSHIPS WITH. WHEN I GOT IT THERE THEY TOLD ME THAT THE WHOLE ENGINE HAD TO BE REPLACED. IT WAS MAKING KNOCKING NOISES. A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO I WANTED TO DRIVE IT DOWN THE ROAD FOR A 2ND OPINION BUT NOW IT WON'T START. WHEN I TRY TO CHARGE IT THE RADIO LIGHTS AND STUFF WILL POP ON FOR A SPLIT SECOND AND THAT'S AS FAR AS IT WILL GO. ANY SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT WOULD CAUSE IT NOT TO START AND WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST FOR THE ENGINE PRICE THEY TOLD ME 3000 FOR USED 4000 FOR NEW?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,219
    Welcome to the forum.

    Posts written in ALL CAPS are hard to read so I suggest you not use them. Many people just skip over posts in all caps.

    A friend of mine got a crate engine for his older F-150 for $5,000 a few months ago. That was a Ford rebuild and came with a 3/36 warranty. The no-name crate engine was going to cost $4,000 installed with a 1/12 warranty. That's in Boise - labor may be cheaper in your area.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • ghost329ghost329 Posts: 9
    Hey thanks, that makes since about the caps.
    So do you have any suggestions about getting it started because I don't want to have to toll it everywhere to get estimates and all that. Do you think it might be the ignition or starter and if so how hard would it be to replace.
    I live on a military base and they have an autocraft shop where I would have all the tools to do it.
    Is it worth a shot to try replace one at a time and see if it works or just take it in?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,219
    Ah, military - ok, that explains the all caps. :)

    I'm not much of a mechanic so ... I've hung around a base wood working shop a few times and the people there were always willing to help, so why not ask around there?

    Don't know about getting it started either - it sounds like it's cranking so maybe a fuel issue? But if the engine is toast, I don't know. It's not clear to me whether you've tried to jump start it or just are charging the battery. Maybe the battery has a bad cell along with the other problems. Tried any starting fluid?

    Can any Troopers owners help?

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • budermbuderm Posts: 9
    i have a 2000 isuzu trooper and all of a sudden from out of nowhere, my power locks on the doors wont lock. They will all unlock both from the remote and the inside door unlock switches, however they wont lock either way. I manually have to lock the doors. Any help / suggestions?

    Also does anyone know a place to get the speed sensors (auto 4wd TOD) for the trooper other than from the dealer?

    Thanks
  • Thanks for the advice. I eased into, everything fine with the timing belt. Decided to pull motor and found a spun rod bearing on #1 cylinder. Now if i can found out how to remove timing belt with out losing the timing settings, i will remove the crank and have it turned and install new bearings and put this thing back on the road.
  • dmitrycdmitryc Posts: 6
    Guys,

    The passenger power seat stopped working where the driver seat works fine. Any ideas if it has its' own fuse or what could be the problem?
  • serranotserranot Posts: 113
    Check the connection under the seat where the electrics plug in.
  • isu2isu2 Posts: 8
    does anyone know the size of the rubber hose that connects from the steel lines to the radiator. need to buy but dont want to take off line till I have one
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Offhand, I don't know the size, but I would guess either 1/4" or 5/16". Just measure it at the exposed steel line.....if you don't have calipers or a micrometer, you should be able to eyeball the size with a tape measure from the bottom. HTH
  • marcy73marcy73 Posts: 1
    I was wondering.. I just bought A used 1999 isuzu trooper and man.. is it really this bad on gas? this vehicle looks to be in really good condition and i have had it for a couple of months ...it starting to make wierd noises.. knocks here and there.. now there is this high pitch musical sound that appears here and there.. sometimes with a knock sometimes without.. does anyone know of what this could be? its so big i cant tell where the noises are coming from sometimes.. like i sware sometimes it sounds like im draggin something..
    thanks,
    m
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, it would help to know how many miles and what type of transmission is in your vehicle. The symptoms you describe could be attributed to poor gasoline, failing timing belt/pusher and possibly a bad steering pump or alternator, so any information like service to trans, parts replaced, etc; will help generate interest in helping diagnose the problem. HTH
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    I was laughing hard reading your post especially the "dragging" part ;)

    I think that, realistically, only H2s, Monteros, and older Kia Sorentos can edge the Trooper (though very slightly) in how much gas they use.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 837
    I have a 2000 Trooper LS. My gas mileage averages from a low of 16.5 to as high as 18.5. Not bad for a large, heavy box. The numbers have run about the same over 130,000 miles. Mine is 2wd and it seems that 4wd or TOD versions might get about 1 MPG less on average.

    Have you had the brakes checked? If you have a bad caliper that is dragging, that could really hurt the mileage. Have spark plugs ever been changed? They are good for 100K miles max. Also probably need to check that they are the correct ones. Reports of changing to non-specified plugs can cause problems. You might also try some fuel system cleaner, either have it done or run several batches of injector cleaner through.

    Is your Trooper displaying a CEL? If so, code from that might point to a problem.
  • Hi there Guys,i need to change either the steering idler or the steering box in my 1994 Trooper 3.1td any ideas on what they are like to change,Any ideas will be welcome.Gerry in the Uk
  • maude3maude3 Posts: 1
    I have a 90 Isuzu trooper. My oil is mixed with coolant. Before this and now my car is going through tons of coolant. I'm pretty sure it's the head gasket. First has any one used the liquid sealer? I thought of trying this first to get me by till I can get a new head gasket or better yet a new engine. Is it ok to drive it till I get this done? I just bought the car a month and half ago and unfortunately the seller didn't tell me about this problem.
  • Forget liquid sealer,Afraid to say your head gasket is shot,Looks like you need to strip the head off and get it skimmed then fit a new gasket set,also to be honest i would not drive it as dont forget the coolant is also going into the sump,oil floats on water so you could end up with a sump full of water and the crank shaft bearings would not like that and could sease the engine,Sorry to be the bearer of bad news,Regards,GERRY
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    X 2 on the advice from egyptgerry. Don't continue to drive it. The antifreeze will dilute the oil and your bearings and rockers will be shot. Plus you don't know what the engine has been through before you owned it. It is a pretty common problem on the 2.4 and 2.6 motors. There are aftermarket heads (AMC and others) available that are made heavier and pretty much eliminate warpage and fracturing common in the Isuzu head. HTH.
  • Glad 2 brains are better than 1,But really the 2.4 and the 2.6 where not the strongest of motors,I used to have them for my business but changed over a few years ago now to the 3.1 td but i do have a 3.0 v6 that runs on LPG gas,gives no problem and the co2 emissions are so low it passes our annual test here with flying colors
  • canepolecanepole Posts: 1
    On my '99 Trooper 3.2L I have removed about all that is needed, but can't figure out how the heck to get the plastic plate with the timing marks off to get at the water pump. Looks like I need to remove the pully, which is bolted to the crankshaft. if so, how do I stop it from spinning?

    Any tips will be appreciated.

    Thanks
  • what you are saying is ,that you need to undo the large nut holding the pulley on,When you try to undo it the pulley is turning if that is what is happening then you need to put a spanner on it and give the spanner a quick smack on the end with a hammer it will normally shock the nut loose,Hope this is the same as the earlier Diesel motors but if not then please wait for some more info from other Guys here,Regards Gerry.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Yes, you do have to remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer and to do that the large bolt that holds it on. If all else fails, you can put a breaker bar on it and wedge it against the frame and bump the starter to break it loose. Be very careful. It is a Right hand thread (normal) so be prepared. Use a puller to get the balancer off, although giving it a tug by hand sometimes works, but usually a puller is needed. Do not pry or hammer on it....it can be damaged and there is a rubber insert that will let the outer balancer become misaligned if it is pryed on.
    Make sure you use the right marks on the rear timing belt cover for your model engine....there are both dohc and sohc marks. HTH.
  • I'm in a kenundrum here... found a 2000 Trooper Limited with of course all bells and whistles... automatic... about 120k miles.. Test drove... it drove great... was going about 35 or so and decided to gun it... the truck lunged a bit, then nothing, then lunged again, then nothing, then fine and dandy sped right up... felt like a fuel isue... like water in tank or something??? Is this a more serious problem then I'm thinking it might be??? Carfax says no real issues, and that Timing Belt/water pump replaced at 88k...under a service waranty, and that it has had 2 other service waranties contracts bought following auction to dealer to new buyer with lien/loan owners... Air conditioner also didn't blow out cold air, thought that may just be a recharge issue... also needs new ball joints according to safety check... price $4900... thought I'd purchase a 3 year service contract to cover my butt if I do purchase it.... what do you all think???? Does the fact that it' made it so many miles mean it's not a lemon like others I've read about here??? I read so much about either the thing blowing up in the first 60k or so miles (tranny, engine, etc) and then I read others saying they've never had a problem... is this one that maybe isn't a problem???? I've always been one who's owned cars I've loved with no problems only to later find out, after a hundred k, that Consumer Reports says they're the worst ever in reliability... so I need YOUR opinions....
  • We have a 2001 and love it!!
    However, the problem sounds like the transmission....
  • Hey - I have the 2001 model, hate to say it but sounds like the transmission....I've had mine rebuilt twice now, well warranty has had it rebuilt.
  • desimonesdesimones Posts: 18
    Don't know about the do it yourself issue, but I purchased a complete set of OEM brakes for my 2000 Trooper from an internet parts whole seller for around $270. A local reputable service shop is doing the complete install for another $230. What's with the $15000!
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