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Isuzu Trooper

1379380382384385582

Comments

  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,982
    TSBs are more "advisory" than obligatory. Your mechanic may not appreciate you showing up with a laundry list of TSBs with a demand that they all be done. Especially if the full TSB says that only a few models made on Fat Tuesday between 9 and noon are affected.

    Some people go in with a complaint and mention they saw a TSB that sounds like it may apply. Others wait until the dealer says "cannot reproduce" and then they bring the TSB out. Still others say they saw a TSB and would like to see the "full" text since we only have summaries here. This gives them a lead in to ask the service writer whether their car needs it.

    Anyone have a favorite technique?

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    With a bad one, the longer it sits the more pressure and fuel that can bleed from the fuel line. It takes several cranks before the fuel pressure is back up to spec.
    Have your friend turn the key to ON for a few seconds before cranking. That starts the fuel pump and repressures the line. If the vehicle starts fine using this technique you likely have found the problem.
    I really doubt your friend has an ion sensor problem. It would be the first one I have ever heard of. Also I would think that would cause problems at all times not just for the first couple of failed cranks.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The passport is the same DOHC engine found in the Rodeo. But the problem to me sounds like either:
    1) Fuel Pressure Regulator or
    2) Intake Manifold Gasket

    If the car has problems pre-start, then it's the fuel pressur regulator if it's post-start til the engine is warm, then it's probably the intake manifold gasket.

    Welcome to the crew by the way.

    -mike
  • savvas_esavvas_e Posts: 347
    Hey guys,

    What's happening? 6 days without a post!
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Will be wiring in a brake controller for my new flatbed trailer I bought sometime this week.

    -mike
  • bstone3bstone3 Posts: 97
    Well the time is near to replace the stock Duelers. So I want to up a size or two - was thinking 265-70-16 (good size)?) - but think I need to change the spare (unused) as well - so if I can get my hands on a discarded used 265-70-16 will the spare tire cover still work. I also want to change out the rear springs and I know some of you have done this - what do you recommend - also should I do anything to the torsion bars - or leave well enough alone? If I crank them a turn or two (how much) I want to do this before I align and replace tires. Thanks
  • dnestrdnestr Posts: 188
    I've never heard such A\C sound on my previous cars as the Trooper does. It sounds like a howl or defective power steering. Though I'm satisfied of A\C cooling on my truck, this gets me not great trouble. So, it might be good if the sound I hear is a usual thing for Troopers and there is no reason to be worry.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I'd go for 275-70 personally. It's a slightly bigger tire, but it's also wider which is nice :)

    Springs I'd go for OME 912s or 919s.

    I'd do the springs first then crank the T-bars then do the tires. As for the spare, it's debatable which way to go. I kept the stocker as a spare, others go for the 5-tire dealio.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I have started to get an idle surge after the vehicle is warmed up. I had my catalytic converter changed a few months back and then a check engine light came on I think code "440" or "404"?. It mostly drops when I shift into park at a stop...it bounces and then normalizes, but slightly lower than the normal. More like 600 than 800-1000 rpm.

    I had my thermostat replaced which also replaced my IMG so I am thinking it might be something with the fuel pressure regulator? Any ideas?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    The spare tire cover only works with stock sized spares.
    ..
    I went with 255/70/16 Dueler A/T Revo tires and am very happy with the ride / handling / noise level.
    ..
    Going to larger tires will reduce your MPG, IMO based on the weight of the tires. The tire store can tell you shipping weight for each tire size so you can decide how heavy you want to go. Bigger tires look great on Troopers.
    ..
    I wanted to go with 265/75 or 275/70 until I saw the weights, nearly double the stock tire weight! Then I decided to go with the 245/75 load range C and ordered them. When the tires arrived, they were load range E which are 30% heavier than load range C and would ride like a cement truck, so I turned them down. I was out of time before a trip and the 255/70 were available so I went with them. They were awsome in the snow. Maybe next time around I will finally go for the big ones, and get a small car (turbo Subaru maybe, but then my wife will want to drive it and I'll be stuck driving the minivan...Hmmm) for the daily commute.
  • bstone3bstone3 Posts: 97
    Thanks for replies - but tell me more about "debate" of keeping the stock spare tire if the ones on the road are a different size - I thought TOD not too forgiving for mixed matched tires. Also, did the new rear springs help settle out the suspension - even with the poly bushings and Rancho gas shocks the Trooper still pitches when braking and the body sway in the turns could be better
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    If you put on a smaller spare (thats what I run) you need to disengage TOD if you run that spare tire. For me if I get a flat I'm gonna get it fixed shortly after so I can deal with a "donut" tire until I get the original tire fixed. In 53K miles I only needed to put the spare on 1x recently and it wasn't much trouble.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The springs helped mostly due to their progressive rate, I don't bottom out the rear suspension when trailering as I used to. Not sure if they helped the lean much, a heavier sway bar (from the vehicross) could probably help reduce lean a bit better. I've drifted my truck and pretty much drive it like I stole it w/o any handling problems.

    -mike
  • dielectric7bbdielectric7bb Posts: 324
    is it just a tach surge, or can you actually hear the engine vary?

    My tach has two modes.
    1) working 100% normal
    2) reading 500 rpm low @ idle and 500 rpm high above 1500 rpm.

    It seems to switch between these two modes at will.

    Remember that these engines are controlled by a cpu, so if the engine actually is surging, it's more than likely a sensor or cpu problem.
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    The 440 code is the gas cap being on too loose. 404 is the EGR valve which indeed may be your problem. It could be carboned up causing erratic movement and an erratic idle. Given the reports lately of plugging EGRs, it might be a good idea to check it in any event. If it is dirty, make sure you also clean its inlet tubing.
  • cwmosercwmoser Posts: 227
    I got a damage estimate, and check, of $3,000. Edmunds True Market Value of a typical 1999 Trooper is: TMV® Dealer Retail: $10,778

    Even if one factors in the Luxury/Performance options on my Trooper, the Retail comes to $14K, and Trade-In at $10K. The hail damage of $3K is a high percentage of the value and while the damage is noticable, it is not that bad.

    Its amazing how far our Troopers have dropped in value. If I were in the market for an SUV, I would try and find an outstanding example as the price is definitely attractive.
  • cwmosercwmoser Posts: 227
    On Edmunds pricing of used Troopers, I find that color affects the Retail price as follows:

    +$94 = Red
    +$44 = White
    +$37 = Dark Red
    +$30 = Silver

    -$33 = off white (Creme)
    -$42 = Black
    -$53 = Dark Blue
    -$60 = Dark Green

    Looks like Green is the least favorite color.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Thanks for the feedback. It almost stalls, so it isn't the gauge. It is when I put it in park after warmed up, or if when warm I shut it off and then start it up again. The second scenario it will really bounce several times unless I give it gas. I will have to dig up my paperwork and check the code again.

    How do I check the EGR valve? Anyone know of any online diagrams I could view? Do you think that could be related to having my catalytic converting going a few months back? i.e. warranty repair?
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I went with P265/70R16 Dueler A/T's all around including the spare. The place gave me credit on my unused spare ($71) towards a new purchase.

    The cover doesn't fit and the place I had the work done ripped mine slightly trying to put it back on. If you are going to replace the spare ahead of time...take you cover off before you go in.

    I am sure the tires added weight and are heavier than stock...but I cannot notice any driving difference related to that?

    The A/T tires are noticable at highway speeds. Smooth and quiet, but there is a little vibration, especially on grooved roads, they seem to pickup road variations more than the stock.
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    It could be that the EGR valve plugged causing the engine to burn oil and that fouled the cat. Then again there are no doubt other equally or maybe more plausible theories.

    My take FWIW is that the only way to really check the EGR valve is to open it up and look at it.

    Here are some posts about the EGR valve - http://www.4x4wire.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=68;- - - t=010615

    leedavidyoung "Isuzu Maintenance & Repair" Jan 22, 2003 12:06am

    A search here will also turn up many more EGR posts.
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