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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • bsmart2bsmart2 Posts: 15
    ON 'paper' a Trooper is worthless, and we all know how bogus that is. They run well, they are well made, tough as a cobb, and very comfortable to drive. They provide utility interior space like few other SUV's, and the have long lives, for the most part. Anyone who has owned a Trooper for more than 4 year has become attached to it, b/c its been a reliable friend to them. Sure some Troopers haven't been properly maintained and have let folks down, but most likely b/c they didn't know about the oil consumption issues, and let it run dry.
    I've had 4 Troopers now, starting with a 1988 went to a 1997, a 1999 and a 2001. None of them let me down. Worthless??? No way........if they are paid for, they are worth about $10000 b/c that's what it would cost to replace them with a used reliable SUV of any size. A new comparable sized SUV will cost around $25000 maybe more, and the mileage isn't that much better than what I'm getting. I figure I can spend about $300 a month on gas and more than break even when I don't have a car payment each month.
    I bet you'll regret letting your 99' Troop go before its over. It would have run another 150K miles if taken care of. I'd like to know where it's located and go get it!!
  • green11green11 Posts: 22
    Good points and true. I did grow attached. My daughter cried when I dropped it off and told me I was making a bad decision. If I had a larger driveway or a true need for a truck bases SUV I would have kept if. Life is often about timing. The cash for clunkers and my wife needing a new vehicle tempted me. I knew the transmission could have went out the next day or it very well may have been a reliable extra vehicle for another decade. I was driving it more than my other car even when it was the extra vehicle. All options except cd changer worked prefectly and it had every single option. I mainly do city driving so the mpg was not a bid deal. It did burn oil and had EGR that went bad like everyone else. My mpg was only about 12 in the city, but I had larger tires. Other than that brakes, tires, and battery. That was it.

    Why I miss it:

    It was dependable and I got it cheap. I think it actually cost me less than a thousand dollars a year to run with car payment and repairs not includidng gas when all calculated. never had another vehicle that came anywhere close to that. It was a poor man's land rover, and almost as plushwhen loaded but with lower maintenance costs.

    It was like having a large SUV in midsize skin.

    It was loaded

    I liked sitting high with the airy cabin.

    I liked knowing I could go anywhere or tow even though it mainly saw pavement. It was not so new or expensive like a land rover that I was afraid to get a dent or scratch, but it still looked nice. Paint was just starting to flake off around tires a little.

    I got a used convertible pontiac G6 at a great deal. Thought I could have both my rugged and girly man vehicle, but it did not work out like I planned.
  • mau4mau4 Posts: 2
    I have tried several tools to take that one far driver's side rear screw......I cannot take it out! can you please let me know exactly what tool you used so I can go get it?
    Thanks a lot!
  • davem5davem5 Posts: 8
    That's ok green11 you did what you needed to. I was tempted with my '01 LS (150k miles), I truly was. But I can put up with the 16 mpg because its been paid for forever, and I love the comfort of the truck and ability to carry anything. My only major repair was the transmission went out at 60k (fully covered); otherwise my Trooper has been a great car and still looks good. Trade-in value is only $2-3k, so the $4500 was very tempting.

    But my last car (a Nissan truck) went 260k+, and I sold it for $2500 cash when I got my Trooper. And the aspect that they'd assassinate it really bothered me. I can try to wait 2-3 more years.
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    My 2002 Troop "only" has 58K on it, so the tranny is covered (at least theoretically) until August 2012 :) I will not get rid of it at least until then plus with the world ending in December of that year, who knows, it may even get me and my family as far as Tibet (I doubt Sienna will cut though the mileage is insane and it could do it on one tank alone)

    My map light's switch is busted and the cruise control works when it wants to. Other than that it looks and rides like new. The brakes on the Trooper are massive but should I start looking into replacing them soon? I don't trust any of the places out there; can I replace the pads myself, what about the rotors, and how would you check how much life you have left?
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 838
    It has been a couple of years, but IIRC I changed my pads, front and rear, at around 75K miles ('00 Trooper LS 2/wd.) I probably could have waited another 25K miles. Not too much problem if you have done it before. There were the second I had done, first was a '00 Grand Cherokee.

    You could probably check the rotors for thickness and runout against the specs in a repair manual, but if the surfaces looks okay and they have not warped, I would just change the pads and go on. I'm up to 148,000 on original rotors. (The Grand Cherokee rotors were warped at less than 10K and were problems until I replaced with budget rotors from Autozone.

    One other suggestion would be to try and find the OEM pads at an Isuzu dealer or order from St Charles Isuzu if they are still around. These pads do not dust like other brands. Even after I changed to ceramic on the Jeep there was dust.

    My Trooper is in semi-retirement...will probably be doing 5K or less a year since a Saturn Outlook is my need daily driver.
  • matausmataus Posts: 43
    Hi All...!

    I ran into a problem with my Trooper just recently. 5 thousand miles back, I replaced my clutch. I.e.: bearings, pressure plate, clutch pad, etc.. Now I notice that my clutch is slipping once again. I have always been easy on the clutch, and have taken great care of my vehicles.

    So, the question is obvious..."Why is this happening"? Am I missing something? The clutch worked like a charm after replacing. I'm not sure or not if this particular clutch can be tightened. And if so, how is this possible?

    If there is anyone out there who can help, It would be greatly appreciated... :confuse:

    Oh, just one more thing......"TROOPERS ROCK! ;)

    Maddy
  • I replaced the starter and before replacing the exhaust pipe I turned the starter over. I got what sounded like a small backfire but the starter sounded fine.Ireplaced the pipe and now it won't start. I ran a hot-wire to the fuel pump and it ran fine and checked all the fuses and relays. If I pour fuel into the intake it will run until the fuel runs out. If I let it set for a while it will start and then die. Any help would be great
  • You will need a u-joint socket attachment for your socket wrench. You will need a 3 inch extension and a 6 inch socket extension. Assuming you have a deep well socket, attach the 6 inch extension to it and put down in the spark plug well. Before it goes all the way in, add the 3 inch extension to it and then insert it all the way into the well, over the plug. Attach your u-joint 'swivel' and your socket wrench and carefully remove the plug.
    The socket should have a rubber insert in it so it will hold the plug as you pull the wrench and attachments out of the well. Reverse the wrench assembly as you remove the plug.
  • Have an '00 Trooper 4wd w/125k miles. A couple years ago, when trying to engage the TOD, the light would just flash on the dash and 4WD would not engage. Our service center said we need a new solenoid, to the tune of about $400. We never had it fixed because we live in a warm climate and don't do offroading, but we'll be driving in the midwest over the upcoming holidays and would like this fixed.

    Likewise, but more recently, our ABS light came on and the ABS doesn't work at all now. The service center said we need a new EHCU, which is around $1500-2000. Ouch!! Doesn't seem right.

    Anyone have suggestions to keep the cost down on these repairs? I'm not very good mechanically, but could probably clean out a couple sensors or something if that's worth a try. I don't mind spending $$ to get these things fixed, but certainly not $1,500+. Part of me would just like to find a good mechanic who could better diagnose whether it's just dirty sensors or whatever because replacing with rare and expensive parts, but I'm not sure what to look for there. Do I just find a mechanic and buy him a Helm's/Chilton's book for the Trooper? Please help me not make an expensive mistake, as I try to get my Trooper to 200k.

    Thanks!

    P.S., I tried searching this forum on these topics, but frankly, but I find this discussion board really hard to search / read / navigate, so I apologize if a lot of this has been discussed before. It seems like there's just one big discussion of everything related to Troopers, and as people reply to each question/post, the replies just become new messages under "Trooper" -- there is no simple way to view a threaded set of replies to someone's specific question about their Trooper.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    You may want to try Isuzu Trooper TOD and 4WD Issues.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • I can't help you with the TOD because my 2000 Trooper is 2wd but my ABS light came on about 2 years ago and I have never had an issue. I just replaced my front rotors and pads at 154K miles(1st time at 100K) and they work great.

    I'm not going to tell you not to get it fixed but I'm not about to spend 2k on a car with 156k on it when the brakes appear to work fine.

    Good luck :)
  • I have a 93 Trooper LS and I can't find the petcock on the radiator. Do I need to remove the skid plate?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    It is tough to reach....I don't think removing the skid plate will help since it will let in more light and a little more room, but the radiator sits on the radiator shell and you still have to be behind it to see it. I have used a socket and extension to reach in...the petcock is a flat blade for your fingers, but it is so tight to get to it that a socket and extension will reach it if you get the socket that allows the blade to slip in but still bites when you turn it. HTH One guys opinion.
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    I suspect fixing TOD will cost you more than $400 - it's probably the rather common issue with the sensors (I believe there are at least two) that cost over $500 each for parts alone... Yikes!

    It's probably cheaper to get a winter tire setup that should get you through the snow and ice relatively well.
  • Every once in a while my Trooper, when turning on the ignition, will startup very strong, but when putting into drive will bogg down for a second or two until I push the gas pedal.
    Any ideas why this would happen?
  • could be a IMG leak. What other symptoms have you noticed? Does the problem presist after the engine warms up?
  • Hmmm, what is an IMG? If the car warms up, sometimes, I may turn it off and then in a few minutes turn it on and it won't start up right away but again have to apply gas.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    IMG = Intake Manifold Gasket
  • niulniul Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I live on the south side of Denver Colorado in Jeffco and am looking for an independent shop or a good dealer who has a guy who knows '86 - '91 Troopers?
    I've got a '91 with a 4EZ1 and 310,000 and a '91 with 150,000 and a 2.8.
    Some days I'm just too tired. Would like to find someone to pay to do the work.
    Thanks,
    John
  • I posted another message and still have a problem after trying someones quick - fix which was using Sea-Foam Tranny cleaner. What's happening is my 1995 V6 automatic 4 WD Trooper doesn't like to move in reverse - Forward gears are all pretty good but in reverse it won't climb a steep incline - not great but not too bad on level ground - The motor will not rev over 2000 rpm in reverse so I'm guessing the may be some valve or sensor keeping it ( the motor ) from producing enough power or RPM's to get it up the hill - HELP !!!! :cry:
  • can anyone tell me how to fix my heater on my trooper it does'nt seem to work,now and again it will come on but most of the time it won't. :(
  • Need a little more information to help answer this question. Describe the symptoms as detailed as possible. No fan, no heat, neither.........?? Any odd noises??
  • Well it looks like i finally got a resolution to this problem. I took it to a master mechanic who test drove it and put a analyzer on it while driving. He called me the next day and said, ' well it's not your transmission, and it's not engine mis-fire trouble'.

    OK.........what is it ???

    You're starving your engine..........your fuel filter is plugged up, almost completely and fuel wasn't getting to the engine. I've replaced the fuel filter and put Chevron with Techron in the gas tank to clean out the piping and injectors. It seems to be running smoother, but it could take some time to see final results. May require a injector replacement if it doesn't smooth completely and run like its supposed to.

    Are you kidding me.........so I'm driving it now to see what happens. I'll have the final story here when I know it. But, for now it looks promising. Should know in a week or so.
  • I want to pull the CD Changer out of my 2001 Trooper LS. It sits below the radio and right above the console. Anyone know where I can find the plastic box liner that fills that hole?
  • bsmart2bsmart2 Posts: 15
    I believe I still have the one I removed when I installed my CD player several years ago. I'd have to take a look to make sure though.
  • bsmart2bsmart2 Posts: 15
    I'm on my 2nd tank of Techron treated fuel, and it seems to be cleaning the system up. The shudder symptoms are getting much less frequent. The last few trips out around town, no incidents.
  • serranotserranot Posts: 113
    If you want to really clean it out, use some Berrymans B12 Chemtool. I'm convinced that there is no more toxic brew. The stuff just dissolves plastic and rubber when it is concentrated. However, added in reasonable quantities to the fuel system, it eats gas varnish for breakfast.

    FWIW, I had to replace the fuel pump and strainer in my '99 Trooper. It got to the point I had to keep a full tank of gas to get it to run. Pretty soon I had to be gentle with the throttle when giving it gas. Strainer that was attached to the fuel pump was plugged.

    Tom
  • budermbuderm Posts: 9
    I bought a trooper a couple years ago, and never needed to use the seat heaters, but I decided to try it - and of course it didnt work.

    The drivers side switch does nothing when i press heat or keep, and doesnt warm the seat either. The passenger side switch illuminates when either is pressed, but the seat doesnt heat up.

    Any suggestions? I looked at all the fuses, but really havent found anything. Is there something in the seats or under them? I have not looked yet

    Thanks for any help
  • I am in the process of re-installing a 2.6 4 cylinder back into an '89 Trooper. I am having problems getting the engine to align with the mounting plates. When I set the clutch assembly, it seems to have pulled the motor back from the mounting bolts. Any ideas?
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