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Isuzu Trooper



  • darcolinodarcolino Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Trooper S with almost 30K miles. I noticed at the end of last summer I started to stall every once in awhile. The problem always seemed to happen when 1) my a/c was on, 2) in the first 5 minutes of my drive, and 3) when I was slowing down.

    Now that summer is here again I brought it back to the dealer and everything checks out fine with the computers and they can't find a problem or recreate it.

    Any ideas?
  • cmunizcmuniz Posts: 604
    When I had my Trooper I USed a tire mounted rack and it worked great, easy on - easy off. I removed the tire cover to put the rack on, but that is easy to do once you get the technique down. I can't remember the brand, but I bought it a a bike store and it just fit over the top of the tire with very little effort. It was very stable. I now have a hitch mounted rack on my Axiom and it is more trouble to put on and take off than the tire mounted one on the Trooper. They both work equally well.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    The only problem is if you want to carry four bikes, they don't make those in tire mounted racks.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I feel your pain. I just went through the same issue with my dealer. With 30K on a 99 you probably drive as much as I do (which is mostly very short trips). It took a long highway trip to make the problem bad enough to find and multiple trips to the dealer to have them find the intake manifold gasket was bad. I had poor performance for about 6 months...stalling, gas mileage, etc. Good luck.

    I have 2 types of racks. A Thule roof rack with fork mount carriers for my Trooper and a hitch mounted Thule for my MDX. I prefer the roof rack over the hitch mount. When the bikes are attached on the roof rack they are on and don't move around. The only drawback is having to hoist the bikes up to the roof.

    I use the tilt back hitch mount for the MDX because it is hard to get bikes on top of any SUV and the MDX is my wife's car. The bikes move around a lot on the hitch mount and it is a pain to get in and out of the rear (even though the tilt feature is very easy). carries a lot of different racks and is very affordable, if not the best pricing you can find on the web.
  • mpm12mpm12 Posts: 2
    I just bought a used Trooper S with 18k miles. I picked it up last night, and I love it! There is one question that I have for all of you. When I am in park, and I turn my air conditioning on, my rpm's increase and decrease erratically. Also, you can hear the engine almost stall, but then pick itself back up. Is this normal?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    Yes that is the A/C clutch kicking in and the engine computer speeding up the engine to make the A/C work better.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The computer increases the revs when the AC is on due to the extra load put on the system by the compressor. It should smooth out after a few seconds.

  • peterismepeterisme Posts: 68
    I ordered Yokohama from Saved $100 compared to those from tire dealers. they are pretty good. can ship the tires directly to the repairshop/garage you choose (they have a list of venders)
  • mpm12mpm12 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the responses! I know that the A/C will cause the engine to speed up, but it concerns me that after the increase in RPM, the engines slows way down almost to the point of it stalling.
  • savvas_esavvas_e Posts: 347
    kmcgirl.... In Australia the dealers are able to disable the security system for you. I imagine Isuzu dealers in the US should be able to do the same.

    However, it is all or nothing. I don't think they can tailor what works and what doesn't.
  • bstone3bstone3 Posts: 97
    Thanks - what size did you get and let us know what you think when you have them installed. I think I will go the same path if your report is positive. Also my 2001 does the same thing at startup with the air conditioner on - surges some but after 20 seconds or so it smooths out - but it is kind of irritating - sometimes I shut off the airconditioner until I back out of the garage.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    If you disable the stuff you're talking about, you pretty much don't have any conditions left that an alarm system would protect against.

    Why don't you just press the lock button on the driver door before you get out, then not press the lock button on the fob? You could still unlock with the fob, but I don't think the alarm would be set.
  • ryanendresryanendres Posts: 122
    There is an Isuzu tech (+20yrs) who has been posting answers to questions on another board for the past few weeks:

    . . . and here is his answer to oil useage on +98 . . .

    ------------------------------------------------------------------ ---------------
     Most of the complaints of oil usage is on 98 up and I see alot of them. It's in the piston design they changed them in the 98 3.2 run. They only have 4 drain back holes on the oil ring. The new ones will have 10 or 11. Oil is building up and sticking in oil rings. Best way to keep from this doins this is keeping the EGR port clean and the pcv valve replaced. On the 95 3.2 I would say it couldn't hurt to have the egr port cleaned, injectors cleaned and the upper intake decarboned.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------ ---------------

  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    Wow. A straight answer. In context with the kinds of solutions folks on this board have come up with, it actually makes some sense.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    on my 88' LS Trooper. Anyone got any leads on places to purchase OEM seat covers at a reasonable price? I checked with St. Charles and you would think the things were made of GOLD. Checked on Ebay and nothing posted for several months. Any other possible sources for items like this?
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    This is the company that did the ARB project Trooper seats.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I don't know if I completely follow the reasons and description.

    In 98 they were using a 3.5L I believe? Second, I have a '99 which has never burned oil except for the first 1000 miles (I did have a new short block put in 15K ago...long story) which says the design does work in some cases. Third, that description would seem like a limited quantity would be used up and then no more like during the break in period...people report 1/2 quart per 1000 miles? That seems like oil is blowing past the rings and getting burned in combustion, not stuck in the rings.

    The description may be accurate, but it doesn't quite make sense to me the way is it worded. Can someone who understands this put it differently to prove/dispove the theory?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Same engine essentially.

  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    The theory makes sense to me.

    Namely, some of the oil that makes it to the side of the cylinder and is wiped down, cannot drain out the fouled oil ring drainback holes. When the piston lowers, that undrained oil is now in the combustion chamber. Some of this combusts and leaves. Some partially combusts and makes gunk that further fouls the oil ring and makes matters worse. The gunk that is wiped down and drains fouls the oil. Again, this makes things worse. Some of the gunk in the exhaust also likely heads towards the EGR plugging it, also making matters worse. I don't know if this could ever get so bad that the top (compression) rings would be effected and you get blowby.

    Then again I ain't no mechanic. Maybe my rationale is all wrong. If it is correct; in addition to the EGR, PCV etc. pointers noted in the original post you should change your oil sooner rather than later. This will prevent accumulation of junk that could also start the oil ring plugging process.

    Again just my $.02.
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