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Isuzu Trooper



  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    Has anyone ever tried these guys, if not who have you used?
    They quoted me $95.00 for ATF exchange.
  • chymerchymer Posts: 7
    I don't have the exact reason for failure of my father's transmission. I told him to ask the mechanic that question and get specifics -- not just "your transmission was bad". I believe that 3rd gear was worn. Prior to the flushing though, he had no slipping, no leaks, etc.

    Whoever is considering flushing, with all the research I've been doing, DO NOT FLUSH!! Drain and fill but never flush, especially higher mileage vehicles.
  • serranoserrano Posts: 107
    I don't see how a "flush" is any different than a drain and fill, other than more of the old fluid gets replaced during a fluid exchange procedure. The end state is the same--the transmission has new fluid. Am I missing something here?
  • beer47beer47 Posts: 185
    @45K and I am having it done again Monday AM @ 95K. I do not fear a thing with this procedure. Full speed ahead!
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I did some research on the web today and found some conflicting reports. From what I found a typical drain and fill only replaces 1/3 to 1/2 the fluid in the system. The only way to get change it all seems to be via flushing or pumping out all of the fluid.

    Most of the information seemed positive. I also read that flushing doesn't clean out the pan or filter...and that it is recommended at some point to drop the pan to clean it and change the filter. Perhaps higher mileage vehicles are more prone to having sludge like stuff that could get dislodged during a flush and eventually cause a problem? So perhaps the required maintenace at around 75K is not only to flush but drop the pan and clean it and filter as well?
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    Are we talking about some kind of power flush? What I had done was more of a fluid swap, new for old, via the cooler lines. Nothing should be stirred up by this kind of procedure...

    I had this done at 30K, 28K ago, no problems. will do it again soon at 60K.
  • serranoserrano Posts: 107
    I believe that we are talking about a pan drain vs. a fluid exchange. I'm not aware of any other procedure that can be accomplished with the transmission in place.
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    Just curious, with a sealed unit (no filler tube) how would you go about getting the fluid back in? In my old Trans-am, I checked the fluid (dip stick and filler tube) with the engine running, in PARK to ensure correct fluid level. It almost seems that Isuzu went with the sealed unit anticipating the trend of fluid exchange in mind. I was also told 4 years ago, that dropping the pan requires taking the cross member off, which was very expensive. Another thing to think about, why did they seal it so you can't add fluid, are these super transmissions? My previous vehicles needed fluid added once in a while.
  • troop2shostroop2shos Posts: 235
    A cleaning agent / flushing pre-fluid is sometimes used to clean the system of deposits / varnish. Some of the varnish when "washed" away (even by/ new fluid) could change tolerances from the build-up within the tranny but not specifically cause a failure. High particulate counts in contaminated fluid or deposits which could have been dislodged will promote wear & cause a problem. Sending the fluid to a lab for analysis may have shed some light on the failure - better yet with a sample check of the old fluid.
  • chymerchymer Posts: 7
    Yes, it's a "power flush", not just drained. Fluid is forced into the transmission with pressure. They use a ATF Exchanger. The guy in message #8033 attached a pdf file with information on the Bilstein R-2000. It sounds like it saves tons of time, but I'm voting against it after talking with mechanics and the trouble my dad had. It probably is a great procedure, but I won't be taking that chance.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    When we did a drain-fill we got out ~3-4Quarts. That's less than 1/2 of what's in there. When they did a flush of my system the flushed through 30 quarts til it came through the system clean.

    The problem is that your AT is essentially a ton of passageways and nooks and crannies, along with your torque converter which holds 2-3quarts itself. So by doing a drain and fill you are only getting the stuff in the pan out.

    I did my flush at 50K and will do it again at 70K for sure.

  • steelpicksteelpick Posts: 12
    My 98 Trooper's voltage meter has always run at a little above the 13..maybe 15 all the time. Yesterday I noticed that while idling it had dipped to where 10 or 11 would be. It sometimes goes back up to the 14 or 15, sometimes just above 13 but has been fluctuating and it never did this before. My dad stuck a voltage meter on the battery and it only read 10.5 volts. Do I have a battery going bad, or an alternator going bad?

  • serranoserrano Posts: 107
    According to the pdf of the fluid exchanger, the machine replaces fluid at the same rate that it's being pumped out. So it might be under pressure, but no more pressure than it normally is. It seems to be a good process, and I hate to condemn it based on one bad report. I don't see that it's the machine's fault that the transmission failed. Anyway, I will probably give it a shot for all of the reasons stated. If I'm going to shy away from it, I want to know specifically what it does that's bad.

        To the guy with the fluctuating voltmeter, I recommend that you go down to any auto parts store and have them put a battery load tester on the battery. You can rule out the battery for no cost in this manner. If the battery is bad, replace it and then observe the meter again.
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    I replace the ATF in my 1999 using pretty much the procedure outlined in this article - - - tml

    Namely, I use the AT to pump the old fluid out and a hand pump to pump the new fluid back in. I pump in through the return line and at the end pull the fill plug (a downwards facing plug on the bottom of the AT) on a running engine to set the level. I get out about 10qts of used fluid before the fluid turns to a new cherry red. I usually flush through an 11th qt just to be sure. This leaves me the 12th qt. of my 3 gallon purchase. I use this last qt. to routinely swap out used power steering fluid.

    FWIW I do my AT fluid changes about every 2-1/2yrs./25k miles. At this point the fluid still looks quite good but it is noticeably darker. No doubt I could much go longer but for the price of 3gallons of ATF and my time I consider this very cheap AT insurance.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    You guys are making me affraid to replace my 1995 Trooper 5-speed with a much easier to find automatic Trooper.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    On the same notes, of all the 4L30s I know out there (at least 100+) I know of 2 failures total.

  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I will be taking ownership tomorrow of a 27K miles 2001 Trooper-S 5-speed 4wd, one owner well cared for etc..
    Are the front automatic locking hubs on this non-TOD Trooper identical to my 1995?
    This will be my third Trooper and finally I will have a limited slip differential.
    My 1995 Trooper has the power folding mirrors, the 2001 S has heated, but not folding mirrors, is the wiring already in there and the folding mechanism the same from 1995 to 2002 so I can swap that functionality before the old Trooper goes to salvage yard?
    I have Dueler Revo AT tires with around 10K miles on the 1995 Trooper, and the 2001 has the default new Trooper tires with 27K miles, is it worth swapping those as well? I think yes.
    I am planning on buyng the 1995 Trooper back from the insurance tataling process and selling it myself to a salvage yard that I have already contacted and they are interested in it.
    I am planning on not swapping the OME suspension parts, since they are relatively inexpensive I'll get new OME parts some time.
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    Congrats on your new find! I would only like to express a word of caution when it comes to swapping your tires though. If you were pushed rapidly forward (as you described) from 0 to 30MPH and hit another vehicle in the process, those tires (based on my own experience) won't be any good in a long run. Chances are that each one of your tire surfaces were shaved off in a few random spots and even though you might not feel anything now, the "bumps" will get much worse over time (in like 3K miles).
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Good show...

    There is a plate on the firewall in the engine compartment, verify that it has a "G80" listed on it. This is the LSD code I believe.

    I think springs and tires are a good idea to swap. If you like the OME springs.

    I don't think the mirrors would work...but if they do I would like to try to wire my 1999 S ones up at some point.

    Oh yeah...consider new shocks...the stock ones in the most recent years seem to be very soft and my opinion.
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