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Isuzu Trooper



  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    On my 99 I could not find an ID tag on the passenger side. I found a space for one but there wasn't one there.

    On the driver's side I could just barely see it but only if I used a mirror and a flashlight. It is under the middle coil pack on the driver's side and above the exhaust manifold. To read the number you will probably need a very small mirror, something like one a dentist uses. Without such a small mirror you cannot get the proper angle to see the tag.

    For the record, your English is fine. I was not trying to correct you.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    I had a similar problem to this. It turned out to be the front drive shaft inside the front wheel hub, had come loose. There is a C-ring/snap ring in there that holds the splined shaft in the proper location to engage the wheel when the vehicle is in 4 wheel drive. If the C-ring comes out, it will allow the shaft to flop around inside the hub and it will make some disturbing sounds. Mine made a noise when turning a sharp corner, or when hitting a pothole or speedbump. I thought I had a broken shock but realized the front wheel wasn't bouncing after a bump. I took the wheel apart and found the real problem was the snap ring laying in the wheel housing.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    is the link to your website?? All those handy how-to things you had posted come in real handy.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,931
    Click on Paisan's name to get to his profile with all his links.

    Steve, Host
  • dgluthdgluth Posts: 49
    My wife is looking for a trooper limited but not having any luck finding one. I suggested an LS and then add aftermarket leather but a salesman told her not all LS's have sunroofs. What is the deal? any help would be helpful.

  • This sure sounds like a problem that has developed on my trooper. For a while now it has made a clunk, like a broken right front shock, when going over bumps. I have been unable to locate the cause.

    This C-ring thing could be it. What is the procedure for checking the C-ring out? Is it an easy fix? Is it a safety issue?

    Thanks in advance for any advice.
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    I've been meaning to ask those who have cranked up the torsion bars if they experienced any clunking in the front end since the adjustment was made. My 99' has done this exact same thing you guys are describing for over a year now, I thought it was something binding in the torsion bar area. Now I'm concerned that I might have let it go too long, if indeed this clip is the culprit. In addition to the clunking, I get this whining/binding sound when I turn right into my parking space at work. I've had the front wheel bearings packed and re-sealed at 30 & 60K, I wonder if the mechanic put it back on wrong? BSMART, you've been in there, is that possible?

    Something else to consider, once a month I run a tank of gas with TOD on just to keep the seals moist, without any abnormal noises.
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    It is possible for the bearing repack to have caused a problem. For example, if they left out or didn't properly reset the snapring that would allow a half-shaft to wander in and out. So would leaving out the adjustment shim(s) (not the hardest mistake to make) but to a much lesser extent. Also not properly tightening the bearings/hub nut would wreck havoc on the bearings and your could be hearing them. Lastly they could have used the wrong grease. For example one that isn't specified for the higher temperature of disc brakes could have failed.

    As to what to do? Of course the definitive test is to open it up see. Lacking that there are a lot of relatively easy tests that you or a shop could do to try and pinpoint your problem. You might first jack it up and spin the tire. Try and find exactly where the noise is coming from. Also, a loose bearing should be easy to check by pulling on the top and bottom of the wheel and checking for play. You might be able to detect a snapring or shim problem by pulling on the halfshaft.

    You could also have a totally unrelated problem like a bad cv. Carefully inspect the boots for any tears.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    it quite well. YES it can be put together wrong which will allow the snap ring to either bind and snap off or just sit in the groove until its worn in two. When I took mine apart, I found that the snap ring had worn significantly, but finally popped out of the groove. I noted the orientation of all the parts, and took the opposite side apart to compare. Sure enough, the bad side had some spacer rings in the wrong place, and I think one of the other splined parts was in backwards.

    You will need an exploded view of the wheel bearing assembly to make sure everything is oriented properly. But, look very closely if you disassemble it and draw your own picture as you take each part off.
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    so many things happened at 60K, scheduled maintenance, new tires & rims, OME shocks and 3 turns on the torsion bars, guess it's just a process of elimination.

    I do my own tire rotations every 5K. I noticed from day one, if you rotated the fronts to clock the stud at 12 o'clock, I hear a ticking as it rotates, almost like an indexing sound, I just assumed that this was normal for TOD?

    Another thing, the clunking I get is intermittent and only on high speed compression hits, same for others?
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    OK, I went on Ebay and bought the Mod. I'll test it out and report my findings here later. Stand by.
  • Well I got my 44,000 mile 2001 Trooper back Sat morning. They put in a new transfer case, new TOD speed sensors, new actuator axle(thats what is listed on work sheet)and a valve unit-ax(once ogain on the repair sheet. I don't know how much this would have cost with out my warranty, but the parts guy said the transfer case was $2600 it's self. It was 4 hours labor as well as the other parts. I am guessing it was about $3500 all together. I don't know what the actuator axles are, are they an item that usually goes out?. For only taking the truck in cause the TOD light was flashing when I engaged it, sure had to fix a lot of stuff. This was my first problem and hope it is the last. Note: I tried out the TOD several times today and after I push in the button and the 4wd lights come on, about 2-3 seconds later I hear a light clunk. I guess thats the unit engaging, I never heard that clunk before now. I hope thats not something bad, hope its just the transfer case breaking in.
  • dnestrdnestr Posts: 188
    Thanks a lot, Breakor! I did as you wrote. So gonna back to the local police office tomorrow.
  • bstone3bstone3 Posts: 97
    Been on vacation but here is the latest on the cold starting surge problem I was having on 01 LS TOD. They kept the vehicle a couple of days to duplicate the problem - only first start in the morning - it did it. The mechanic however was not so sure of the problem so he disconnected a black short hose from the fuel pressure regulator and connected a 10" coiled up piece of clear tubing - he wanted to see if fuel was collecting in the clear tube - I think this is a bypass line suggesting the regulator was bypassing fuel - has been a problem in some Troopers. He didn't see any fuel but I mean to tell you the starting surge is gone - I think the long coil tube stops any fuel from bypassing the regulator and going to the fuel intake. They left the long coil line in to see if I have the problem anymore - and I don't. The Trooper starts better than it ever has. He also told me that he was surprised to see the Champion plugs installed that he replaced with NGT's - he thought that was a 2000 or earlier issue. Anyway the problem seems to be the pressure regulator and I will see if I can get them to replace it.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Not all of them had the roof. I'd guess about 90-95% of them did though.

  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    Based on readings here and elsewhere (I assume it is verboten to mention the elsewhere) I am guessing the line they disconnected is the vacuum actuator line. If there is a hole in the FPR diaphram, that can allow fuel to drip into the vacuum intake and cause idle/starting problems. It could be like you noted that the line is a bypass line. In any event the cure of course is a new FPR.

    In your case you could now have gasoline dripping past the diaphram (or trying to flow around the FPR like you noted) into a clear plastic line. How heat and chemical resistant is that plastic? Many hardware store varieties for example aren't very. How well is it capped? How long do you have to drive around with such a jury rigged system? The point being this setup may help the car run better but at what added risk of fire? I personally would make the dealer get that tubing out of there ASAP.
  • bstone3bstone3 Posts: 97
    Thanks for the advice - it is jury rigged and the tube probably is not a good long term option - so I will opt for the new FPR. I remember the mechanic mentioning the diaphram but he never saw any visible gasoline show up in the new clear tube, he got it from his toolbox - the reason he left it like that to see if the problem re-occured then I could check the line - my belief is that the leakage is minimal but enough to cause idle problems at start-up with the original 1" tube in place. But for information purposes the Trooper has always, since new, surged somewhat at startup and had gotten worse over 44K miles. Thanks again
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Still haven't bought mine yet, thinking of going with another set of Scorpions in 265-75-16 or the ones I have now which are 275-70-16

  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    Yeah, I'm wavering about whether to get new tires now...I have almost 45K on my Scorpions, but there is some tread left, just not as much as I would like for a Minnesota winter.

    But my hand may be forced now - in the last few days I have noticed one of my tires has a slow leak, was down to 15 psi yesterday.

    The Scorpions are at least $40 more expensive (per tire) than they were last time I bought, so I am looking at other options. I like the design of the Nitto Terra Grapplers, but they aren't any cheaper than the Scorpions. Yokohama Geolanders are cheaper, and with pretty good reviews...who knows.
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