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Isuzu Trooper

1474475477479480582

Comments

  • crqfliercrqflier Posts: 5
    We put Bilstein shocks on our '95 Trooper a couple years ago - they are very stiff (almost too stiff when compared to the OE shocks). They do a great job on keeping the car stable though - far better than the OE. The trade-off is worth it to us, but might not be for others.
  • dmuzykadmuzyka Posts: 31
    My wife has the Highlander set-up you're looking for - base 4 cyl. I'm very impressed with it as far as pep and handling - it's a very tight little rocket to dart around in, with impeccable build quality. Plenty of room for storage, too. Just don't expect to find many 4 cyl. available with side airbags...we were going to have to wait 4-6 months for one from the factory...and by all means fork over the extra $$ for the power seats!! We didn't and regret it often as I can't find a decent seating position (although she can), and I am greatly spoiled by my Trooper's seats. Also, my 2WD LS seems a more substantial vehicle than the Toyota, but that just might be perceptive prejudice!!
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Your Trooper IS substantially more vehicle than the Highlander. I believe the Highlander is a unibody construction, built on the Camary platform, therefore it's not a rigid truck frame giving that STRONG feeling of a truck. They are a fine looking and riding rig for what they are though, just as you have mentioned.

    I have to agree with you on the power seats thing. I have NEVER been able to get the seating position I prefer on my 01' Trooper that does not have power seating. It just sits differently than my 99' even though it has those manual knob adjusters. I'm not sure what the difference is exactly, but it's noticeable.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    I don't believe the Highlander is built on the Camry platform - I think it's built on the Avalon platform which is wider and longer. But it is definitely a car (unibody), not a truck.

    I have no problem with Sport Utility Cars (SUCs), despite my acronym. The only reason I have a Trooper/truck is because I need to pull a fairly heavy trailer. Otherwise, it'd be a all-wheel drive car for me.
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    Actually, the Avalon is based on the pre-2002 generation Camry platform which has been extended. Highlander is built on the current Camry platform with very few modifications. I find it interesting that Rav4 is also built on the same platform, just more heavily modified - I always thought it was a Corolla.

    My sister's loaded up Highlander Limited is one smooth riding rocket compared to the Trooper. I'd still pick my Isuzu because it looks cool, fits more stuff and I paid $15,000 less for it (Yes, she spent $40K OTD for her Toyota when they came out - it's got everything, extra warranty and some lifetime services too.)
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Bought a loaded highlander this year too. Close to $40k...

    -mike
  • schrochemschrochem Posts: 5
    I was hoping someone might help me. I have a 1999 Trooper and have an intermittent fan problem. It is starting to get hot here in Texas so I need to resolve this problem soon. The A/C itself seems to be working fine but the fan may or may not come on. I have felt the fan and when it is working it does cycle through the speeds. If it comes on, it will stay on until I turn the truck off. The fan speed doesn’t seem up to par as I have to put the speed all the way up to get any kind of cooling going. The times it doesn’t start, it may never start up. However, I have seen it magically come on when my speed increased (entering a highway).
    The only other symptoms I can offer is the amount of water being discharged seems to be excessive and immediate. I thought that had something to do only with the A/C but if I turn the A/C off it keeps on dripping. Even if I turn the heater on it keeps on dripping and a fast rate. The only way to stop the dripping is to turn the fan off.
    Is it my fan? Is it possibly a fuse (I don’t know how to check if the two fuses in the box are still good)? Lastly, do you think my A/C is still fine and it is just a fan problem?
    Thanks for any help
    Scott
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    I had heard the RAV4 was based on the Celica...

    Well, whatever Toyota is doing, their doing it pretty darn well.

    I still love my Trooper, though.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    Condensation drips form the cooling coils when hot, moist air is cooled by the coil and can no longer hold the moisture. It drips into a pan and that pan has a hose leading out below the car. If that hose is clogged, it might drip more slowly, and for a longer time, than it otherwise would. A lot of garages/dealers will blow the line out with compressed air to clear the clog.

    The fan moves the air across the coils, so if the fan isn't running, there won't be much condensation. But, when if you turn the fan off, the water that's already in the pan will continue to drip until it's gone.

    As for your fan, it sounds like the fan motor could be faulty. Maybe it requires a lot of electricity to get it to spin? That would explain why the engine revs need to be up to get it to run. Could it be affected by a pool of condensate water? I don't think so, but I've never dis-assembled the unit...

    I'd get that condensation line cleared as a start.

    You realize that if the fan isn't in the on position, the AC compressor will not come on, even though you have the AC button depressed, right?

    There's a lot of hot air in a Trooper, and the AC is not as powerful as some might hope. I always start by opening my windows to get the super-heated air out before I turn the AC on.

    Also, make sure the air source lever is slid to recycle. Otherwise, you're just air conditioning outside air and forcing it into the truck.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The only toyota that does anything to move me is the Landcruiser. The rest are all really really Blah. They remind me of a Toaster Oven or Refrigerator, they are for non-car enthusiasts who wouldn't know the difference if they were driving a Hondah or Toyota or what not. Very reliable, but no soul, no heart, no character.

    -mike
  • schrochemschrochem Posts: 5
    Thanks for your response. Well I don't think the line is clogged b/c it seems to flow at a pretty quick rate. It seems to be more than I have ever noticed.
    I guess if it was a fuse problem it would either work or it wouldn't. Could it be some other electrical problem? I am not sure how a fan motor starts to go out, but I want to make sure it isn't something upstream before replacing it. I noticed on the fan motor under the part number it said 12V. Do you suppose, it might be borderline to the 12V mark? If so how do I resolve that problem. I don't know much about trucks as you can tell but like to tinker nonetheless.
    scott
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    Agreed, Toyotas are appliances. But they are unbelievably good if you don't care about personality. Personally, my next car will probably be a 'ru.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    There are probably ways to test the draw of the fan motor, but often when a mechanism with a motor begins to die, it requires more power to start and run.

    As to what's coming out of the condensate line, it only drips when the AC is running, or has just run, right? In a hot humid environment, it can produce quite a bit of water.

    Moving humid air slowly over the coils will extract the most water. So, maybe your fan really is running poorly/slowly.

    I'm hoping others will that have more experience will chime in. Fan motors have been discussed in the past...
  • cwmcwm Posts: 42
    P1441 EVAP System Flow During Non-Purge
     
    Isuzu OBD2 codes:
    http://www.troublecodes.net/isuzu/iszuobd2.shtml

    Here is something titled "EVAP System Operation":
    http://service.gm.com/gmtechlink/images/issues/nov02/TL_Nov02.pdf

    and Isuzu Technical Service Bulletins:

    SB00-02-S002 MAR 00 DTC P1441 EVAP/Fuel Sender Calibration Revised

    SB98-03-L006 JUL 98 DTC P1441 (EVAP) Diagnostic Procedures Revised

    at http://www.alldata.com/TSB/29/98292538.html
  • ilitilit Posts: 71
    A new "fuel sending unit" replaced on mine cured the problem I had with my 99 T.
  • schrochemschrochem Posts: 5
    yes, after the a/c has run, but if I turn off the a/c it keeps on dripping (with fan still on). If I turn the fan off it stops immediately.
    I did search the archives and found a similar post at #9201. However, noone seemed to answer that post, but I do think mine does the same thing with switching the intake back and forth. Not sure if it is related but I do notice quite a buildup on my battery terminals in a short amount of time. I have often wondered if something is killing my battery (I am on my third one in 4yrs 70000miles. Been keeping them as clean as I can as often as needed.
    Thanks again for the help
    scott
  • troop2shostroop2shos Posts: 235
    My '04 fridge white 4 cyl AWD appliance has a personality with a very high level of performance: Subaru Forester XT. Combined with my '00 Troop, my driving, storage, towing, etc. needs are pretty much covered.
  • sdavitosdavito Posts: 70
    My 2000 Trooper had the same exact symptoms, and it was the fan motor.

    David
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Forester is FAR from an appliance. It's got the underpinnings of the WRX and handles and has way more character than a Toyota or Hondah.

    Being an appliance has nothing to do with 4cylinders, but more the chassis/feel/personality of the vehicle...

    I have 3 subies :)

    '92 SVX
    '94 Legacy Turbo 5MT Sedan
    '96 Impreza L Race Prepared 4EAT

    -mike
  • troop2shostroop2shos Posts: 235
    The Forester XT is perceived as an appliance to those who are totally unaware of its performance utility & stealth advantage... :)
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