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Isuzu Trooper

1480481483485486582

Comments

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    It is rated to tow w/o a cooler, but it is a good idea to put one in. I've been debating putting one in mine.

    -mike
  • rotweilrotweil Posts: 3
    yup talked to my mechanic. Atlanta is hot. Coolers are cheap and transmissions are expensive so I'm putting one in. Also got a nice surprise when I called Isuzu to register the warranty under my name. I knew the 10 year 120K warranty was transferable only to family members so I thought I only had the remainder of the 3 year 50k bumper to bumper. Turns out they transfer part of the drive train warranty... a 5 year 60k warranty. Feel I got an even better deal now since the truck only has 14k on it. BTW talked to a few dealers in addition to Isuzu North America and some my leave this year but plenty will stay to honor service agreements.
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    Do you know who will stay and who will go? I think we only have four dealers left in the metro area now. I usually go to Lou Sobh for oil changes and, even though Pugmire is much closer, their service dept. is virtually non-existent (one mechanic just a couple of hours each day in some different location)...
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I did a similar search to replace my 1995 Trooper which was totalled last summer.
    ..
    My 2 cents:
    All of the "rental fleet" Troopers I test drove, even with only 15K miles, desperately needed the shocks replaced and I would do the OME springs too.
    ..
    All but one of the rental fleet Troopers had mismatched tires. Mismatched tires are very bad for limited slips in differentials. These tires were not very old, but were very "bottom of the line" so they would need replaced immediately also.
    ..
    A pair of rental fleet Troopers with nearly the same Vehicle ID#s with nearly the same mileage, had radically different wear and tear on them, look each one over carefully in every detail, sit in each seat belt position and put on each seat belt, etc....
    ..

    I have a LittlePassengerSeat from my 1995, I have not yet installed it in my 2001. The seat is built very very strong. It bolts in with 4 each 3/8-24 grade-8 bolts. The brackets stay in place with the seat out which makes it about a 10 minuted task to take the seat out or put it back. The seat I have does not fold. I mounted it facing rear for easy access to load kids through the back door. This creates a significant hidden space between the middle and new third row, enough for my tools and a few extra things like a small step ladder.
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    Got a quote from the dealer for rear brakes on my Trooper. The "rotors are so rusted I can't turn them he says." Yikes. $766. As far as I can tell, the rotors are nice and shiny.

    I'm really thinking of taking this somewhere else for a quote. Does anyone make aftermarket disks/pads?
  • seanreidseanreid Posts: 152
    Transmission Cooler...is a very good idea for any vehicle that does regular towing. I haven't yet put one in the 1999 I bought this spring but I will. I own a motorcycle touring company and we do extensive trailering to move bikes around, etc., primarily with a one-ton conversion van but sometimes with the Trooper as well. Our vans, Suburban, Avalanche, etc. have all had coolers.

    Rear brakes: $766 is high on the brakes. I had mine done (by my regular mechanics) after I bought this (2nd) 1999 Trooper and I think it was under $400. The higher end Wagner rotors are supposed to be pretty good and my mechanics used NAPA "Gold" rotors which they have had good experience with. The NAPA "Gold" stuff seems to be good in general, for example, the "Gold" oil filter is actually a high end WIX, etc. The cheaper aftermarket rotors will warp more easily I'm told and a greater percentage of them are out of round fresh from the box. Good quality rear rotors for the Trooper seem to run $80-$110 each.

    Intake Gasket: Mine was done at about 45K (before I bought the vehicle) and I think that when it needs to be done again, I'll do it myself (unless time is scarce). Fortunately, the truck doesn't seem to need that yet but I've love to read comments from list members who've done that replacement themselves. As I recall, it isn't brain surgery.

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    I had figured that $400 was about what it should cost. I can get Brembo disks for $70 or so each, and the pads for no more than that. So $200 for parts and $200 for a couple of hours labor...

    Thanks for confirming my suspicions.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 835
    Do you really need to turn the rotors? Are they still within specs for thickness and runout? Many of the recent rotors are such that you really may not want to turn them since there is not sufficient material. How many miles do you have on your Trooper?

    My '00 LS is over 67,000 on the original brakes. I'm thinking about replacing the pads.. and considering leaving the rotors alone. The original Isuzu pads have been absolutely NO dust (vs the Jeep GCL my wife drove until we traded it 6 weeks ago..it was MAX dust.) I'm almost afraid to go with even the ceramic 'dustless' aftermarket pad because of that. Have not priced them locally, but have seen posts that St Charles Isuzu in Missouri gives a decent price.

    Bill
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    At 20K I did my rear rotors cause they were destroyed by the rear backing plates. I put on Isuzu pads front and rear at that time. I now have 75K miles on it and they are doing well, will throw on a set of pads soon so I don't have to turn the fronts which are a major PITA.

    -mike
  • seanreidseanreid Posts: 152
    If Brembo's car/truck rotors are as good as their motorcycle rotors then they should be excellent. The front pads and rotors were done on my 1999 a couple thousand miles before I bought it (by the previous owner himself) and the rears were done just after. The front wheels show lots of brake dust and the rear wheels stay clean. Naturally, the front brakes do more of the work but I suspect my mechanic made a good pad choice for the rears. If anyone's interested, I'll check and see what he used. Otherwise, genuine Isuzu pads may be worth getting. If you can get good pads and rotors for $200 total you're doing great - I would have guessed $250 - $300 for those. Swapping the rear rotors and pads is very straightforward (I watched my mechanic do it) and so should only be about 1- 1.5 hrs. labor (if the shop is honest) .

    Are you sitting down...my shop charges only $42.00 an hour for labor and the only people to work on the vehicles are the two owner-operators. I have friends who own BMW motorcycle dealerships and I know they're getting close to $100/hour for labor.

    Still waiting for my OMEs to arrive.

    Sean
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    are just a name for car ones. They are ok rotors but nothing special.

    -mike
  • seanreidseanreid Posts: 152
    Badge-engineering...it's everywhere now. Brembo actually means something in motorcycle brakes - too bad they've been willing to sell their name as a rubber stamp. In that case, I'd recommend the higher end Wagner rotors or NAPA's higher end house brand rotors.

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Posts: 356
    Brembo means something special for cars, too, at least for small performance cars. Many of the modified little rice rockets sport Brembo brakes in bright colors behind their open spoked wheels...

    Dunno how it could mean much for truck rotors, but I'll bet they aren't junk. I wouldn't mind Napa, either.

    Paisan, you got a real good deal on front rotors from Pep Boys, right?

    I think if the rotors are less than $75 each, it's probably not even worth turning them and making them thinner and more warp-prone.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Those were rears, paid like $75 each for them. Now that I have access to a distributor for parts, I can get brembos ad some crazy prices I think ~$60/each or something for F/R.

    -mike
  • df2000df2000 Posts: 60
    TireRack sell Brambo rotor for $68 and some pretty good set of pads under $70.And I think you can find brambos even cheape on the Web.
    I use Raybestos PG Plus pads for $28, very little to no dust at all, they were OK on rear for 4yr/50K, store offer lifetime warranty, just bring weared out in and get new one free, change pads easy and take about an hour. I have Pepboys Prostop pad on another car, MAX source of black dust, changed these many times, b/c they just good for 3 yr, for free also (PB used to offer lifetime warranty), they should be made by Raybestos also and kind off similar to pg plus, go figure.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    It seems that ISUZU has a history of rear rotors warping due to over-torque and that leading to highway speed vibrations. Anyone else on this board experience this phenom?? I've had rotors turned by the dealer to reduce warpage, but it didn't eliminate the problem.
  • seanreidseanreid Posts: 152
    I installed the Hidden Hitch on my Trooper this evening (saved from the first 1999 Trooper) and all went fine with the mounting (requires patience, dealing with rusty bolts, etc. - the usual) and then I plugged the Hoppy adapter I saved (from the other Trooper)into the existing Trooper plug (under the rubber grommet and above the tail pipe...but got no juice to the trailer lights). I'll go through the usual tests etc. but I wondered if there was anything quick and easy that my addled mind may have overlooked. Like...is that plug on its own circuit or wired in parallel with the tail lights, etc.? Thanks in advance for any suggestions. I'll start testing tomorrow afternoon.

    By the way, thank you again Mike for that Hidden Hitch suggestion back in 2002. It's such a perfect fit on the Trooper.

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Just got my car hauler trailer back from getting new magnets. $500 :( Bummer. But it's doing well otherwise.

    -mike
  • seanreidseanreid Posts: 152
    I installed the Hidden Hitch on my Trooper this evening (saved from the first 1999 Trooper) and all went fine with the mounting (requires patience, dealing with rusty bolts, etc. - the usual) and then I plugged the Hoppy adapter I saved (from 1999 Trooper 1)into the existing Trooper plug (under the rubber grommet and above the tail pipe...but got no juice to the trailer lights). I'll go through the usual tests etc. but I wondered if there was anything quick and easy that my addled mind may have overlooked. Like...is that plug on its own circuit or wired in parallel with the tail lights, etc.? Thanks in advance for any suggestions. I'll start testing tomorrow afternoon.

    By the way, thank you again Mike for that Hidden Hitch suggestion back in 2002. It's such a perfect fit.

    Cheers,

    Sean
  • seanreidseanreid Posts: 152
    Anyone have any hints? Anything special to know about that plug?

    Cheers,

    Sean
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