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Isuzu Trooper



  • Peter - you need to loosen the gas cap first to relieve the pressure in the tank. You should not get much fuel then. I've done the filter a couple of times so I know this works.

  • thank you for your reply, Tom!
  • What size fit in the spaces provided on the bumber? This is the 2000 LS model. Seems like a standard size that I've seen on other Troops.
  • Hi all,

    I did some research on this site and have found that my Trooper does not have the V05 option (heavy duty radiator) and am not sure that there is a stock tranny cooler installed. I tow a 19ft boat that weighs up to 4K pounds loaded, and the Troop does fine except for steep up grades. I was thinking of a adding a Tru-cool tranny cooler and wanted your opinions. Is this recommended and any experience with the install?Also, how do I find out if there is a stock cooler already installed? Not sure I trust my local dealer as they are mostly a GM dealer. Thanks for your time.
  • Measure the inside of the cut-outs where the lamps will be mounted & allow for mounting depth plus add about a 1/4" minimum for air space around the lamp. Check various web sites for the outside dimensions of the lamps you're interested in - some trimming may be required for clearance. The OEM fogs are approx. 6"W x 2-3/4"H - the height will be a problem in finding aftermarket might check PIAA or look at alternative mounting locations if aftermarket - your other option is the OEM lamp.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I love my Hella 3000s :)

    Towing/transcooler- All Troopers are setup for towing from the factory, add hitch and you are good. Although it has a built in transcooler I would add one on as extra protection. I should/may do it on mine.

    Draining, I usually just pull a hose. I haven't done it on my trooper yet but I should before winter do the hoses and coolant drain/fill.

  • Hi all,

    I am considering purchasing a 22 ft travel trailer and was wondering if any of you have had a towing experience with the trooper and a trailer of that length and weight. The trailer is 4200 lbs. I have a class III WD hitch on my 98 Trooper.


  • A consideration when hauling choosing a trailer for yard debris: At some dumps they have rules. In my case there is a rule that trailers with one axle can be considered home owners getting rid of yard debris, but if you have two axles, then you must not be a homeowner and you must follow rules like a contactor or garbage company would.
    I was looking at a large trailer for a few big loads, now I might go with a smaller trailer at max single axle rating for less expensive use of the stump dump.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    PE1227 What kind of distances etc are you planning on travelling? I regularly tow 5k-5500k car trailer 500-900 miles at a time, it's not too bad but I am considering a GMC Yukon XL as a replacement due to the long-towing I do.

  • Boxtrooper, I have a CarMate SST 5x10, 1 axle, 2990# gross. When thoroughly loaded with junk firewood, stumps, limbs, homeowner remodelling refuse, etc., it's as much as I'm comfortable pulling. And it takes forever to unload at the dump.

    Even when carrying heavy remodelling refuse (roofing, concrete block, whatever), I've never come close to 2990# on the scale.

    I think you can do just fine with a single axle trailer.
  • pe1227pe1227 Posts: 15
    I would tow about the same distance. (500 - 900 miles) Looks like it can do the job based on what you tell me. How does it perform going up grades with that kind of load?


  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    It does ok if you are on interstates and can build some momentum before the hills. I usually get her up to about 70-75 before a hill and end up at about 60 by the time I crest it. If I start out at 60-65 I'm down to 50-55 by the top. It takes some planning but not too bad if you don't tow every weekend with it.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    PS: I also don't have a sway-controller on the trailer or weight distributing hitch, I bet if I had that it would be even easier!

  • ae1901ae1901 Posts: 1
    Hi everyone, I am new to this board.

    I just bought a used 2000 LS wtih 50000 miles and would like to have a complete change of all the fluids(transmission, TOD, front/rear axles, anything else?). Can someone recommend a place in Chicago to have this done without getting ripped off. How much should this cost?

    Thanks. Al
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,950
    Hey Al, welcome to Town Hall.

    Guess no one is Trooping in Chicago right now.

    Check out the Edmunds Maintenance Guide for what the recommended minimum service is.

    Steve, Host
  • I used to do major maintenance at Bill StillWell Isuzu in Downer Grove. But I found they lack of basic technical expertise. I posted in this forum about the CEL light problem in my car. I send the car there 4 times, and they never find out the real problem. Now I just use my local mechanic to do the maintenance. If possible, I do it by myself.

    It seems ISUZU is leaving US SUV market (or they seems to), and the ISUZU dealers now don’t care about customers and sure, this lead to poor service. Yeah, we are on our own now :(
  • Usually, you will find the service price at Chicago dealer twice as much as local mechanic. (And I never think their service is two times better)
  • I have a 99 Trooper that is in good condition. The motor (short block) was replaced at 58,000 miles due to a cracked piston rod. Everything has been fine since then except I started noticing this weird odor coming from the motor. It sort of smells like rubber so I thought it might be the tires but it seems like it is coming from the engine compartment. Anybody noticed anything like this? Have checked the engine and no leaks or anything noticeable. Seems to be running fine. Just checking here before I take it to the dealership. Thanks.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    How old is the engine? Under 5000 miles? A newly replaced engine could have that smell, but if it is a few years old and been run for over 5K miles then I would think something else is going on.

    A couple of ideas...If the motor was just replaced then it could just be oil/gasket sealer/residue burning off the motor (and normal). If the motor is older it could be a wearing belt or oil or something got on a belt and causing it to burn whenn hot?
  • Thanks for the reply. The engine has about 35,000 mis since being replaced. The tires have 50,000+ mis on them but I found it hard to believe they would be causing the smell. I notice it after driving on the highway at about 65mph for 5mis. When I come to a stop at the exit, the smell is really noticeable if you have the outside air on. Just seems strange. Other than that, I know the A/C compressor needs to be replaced. The bearings are making that rattling noise but it still works fine. Have you seen the price on an A/C compressor? Unbelievable.
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