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Isuzu Trooper



  • I will attempt to answer the performance stuff for elctpk. My 2 cents worth:
    1.) The engine must breath well to perform well. I use a K&N original equipment replacement air filter which seems to breath a little easier than a new clean paper filter. My mecanic shop will do the K&N filter cleaning for me cheaper than replacing paper filters. I tried the kit where you replace the whole intake box with a cone shaped one, but I saw that the filter was too exposed to flying debris directly off the radiator fan, so I sent that back.
    2.) The exhaust I once researched in depth (several years ago for my 1995) I found an exhaust manufacturer in the UK that makes an aftermarket exhaust for the "Isuzu Duty" what they call a Trooper over there, and he said that the stock exhaust is about as efficient and free flowing as it can be without making a lot of noise. So I keep a stock exhaust.
    3.) Braking. It is my personal preference to stay on top of brake maintenance maybe to the extreme since braking is important to me. When I bought my 2001 Trooper used with 29K miles on it I immediately flushed the brake lines with new fluid.
    4.) Not wanting to take any chances with oils, I had all the oils changed. Front and Rear Differentials, manual transmission, and power steering. All with products from
    5.) My 2001 has always used synthetic oil, I promptly changed the oil again keeping with synthetic.
    6.) Tires make a lot of difference in handling. I have run Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo tires and am now using Yokohama Geolander G051's. Both are great performers. The Revos would be my first choice off road or in snow country, the G051's for mostly road driving are a little quieter than the already very quiet Revos. Size 265/70R16 look better without killing fuel economy. 275/70R16 and even 33 inch tall 285/75R16 would fit even without a lift, but if you're into big tires go with the OME set for suspension. Compare tires online at places such as
    7.) Suspension. I use the OME kit for medium firmness. This gives a very soft nice ride on slow little bumps and great control on larger faster bumps. It also gives a 1.5 inch lift. I'd prefer only half that much extra lift since the Trooper seems to have plenty of clearance for my use alrady, but the great ride and control are worth having to have the 1.5 inch lift.
    8.) I don't have this but If I put on an aftermaket front bumper with a winch such as the ARB unit, I'd also go with the SwayAway stiffer front torsion bars because of the extra weight to prevent diving when stopping.
    9.) Poly sway bar bushings are nice for better cornering, but if you have tire vibrations might transmit the vibrations to the frame more than the stock rubber bushings.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 835
    I checked with my local dealer about getting the timing belt and water pump replaced on my 2000 Trooper LS. He quoted about $800 for both. I think it's time to look around for an independent mechanic to get a price. Anybody been through this lately?

    Thanks and have a happy new year.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Yep, I used an independent a few months back and it cost me $200 to get the timing belt replaced. He said he would recommend replacing the water pump at the same time since he would be there anyway with the tear down. He called me when he got it dis-assembled and said the water pump looked so good, that he did NOT recommend me replacing it. So I didn't. The price included the new belt which was about $90 bucks. Very reasonable price I thought. :)
  • Usually the labor cost is high for timing belt changes. So, most people will also change the water pump and timing belt tensioner while its all apart. These extra parts get "free" installation since the timing belt replacement clears the way. On Troopers the timing belt tensioner might make a clicking noise if it starts to fail.
  • serranotserranot Posts: 113
    That's interesting. I'm not sure I agree. Short of them leaking or having the bearing go, they always look fine. I will replace anyway regardless of how it looks. In my mind, the whole point is to zero-time the pump, tensioner, and idlers so that they don't individually fail down the road.

  • xkipxxkipx Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 isuzu, it had keyless entry on it, but limited to like 20ft, and ugly remote. So i purchased a bull dog ( remote start, and keyless entry.

    For the remote start working easily, Now this is my problem, I can't get the door locks to work. I got the door lock to work, not door unlock. (already replaced the bulldog unit, it's not that)

    When i press the unlock it makes the click in the box, but nothing happends. It says in the car, that the blue/yellow and orange/blk wire is unlock, and the lght green/red and orange/blk is lock, since the orange/blk wire is the same, this is how i have it hooked up.

    unlock wire (from bulldog) going to orange/blk and blue yellow

    lock wire (from bulldog) going to same orange/blk and light green/red wire

    Lock will work, but not unlock. Now if I take the wire and ground it, it will continully unlock, so i know it's the right wire

    Does anyone follow this, and know what the problem is?
  • n9pugn9pug Posts: 3
    when you say you installed the 750 ohm resistor in series, does this mean you plugged it back in? wouldnt that cut the resistor value in half? I am curious, the other posts
    I have read on this say to install a resistor value of about 7500 ohm, depending on your location in the US. Also, would this mean not to plug it back in to the thermistor? Give me some help here. I want to install a 7500 ohm resistor, but I am unclear as if I am to plug it back in, or just install the resistor across the leads of the plug. please advise...... :confuse:
  • recently bought a trooper duty 3.1 td.1993 model ran out of fuel. everything primed up ready to go but wont start. anti-theft light keeps flashing. help
  • Are there any engine computer codes or check engine light? More clues needed.
    I always wanted a diesel for the fuel economy but never had one due to import rules. Maybe after the low sulfur diesel fuel regulation is enforced later this year, Isuzu will finally bring in it's diesels to the USA. I'd love to see:
    1.) diesel versions of the Isuzu pickups and Ascender 30+ mpg
    2.) Isuzu's cars to return in both DI gasoline and diesel 50+ mpg
    3.) Isuzu to bring back the Trooper or GBX as diesel
    4.) Isuzu diesel inline 4 cylinder in a minivan 40 mpg hwy. and designed to be maintained from one side (way easier than V6 maintenance) since it would be mounted transverse.
  • sorry cant give n e more clues. completely in the dark. my mechanic suspects immobiliser might need reset. unfortunately isuzu dealers quite unhelpful unless you give it to em and then they charge an arm and a leg to put it on to the computer and then about£40 per hour labour to fixit
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    I can give you the electrical schematic for your vehicle, but it is a file and I am not sure if I can do it through this website. That may help you if you are familiar with troubleshooting?
  • any help would b greatly appreciated. thanks
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Mike would be able to email it to you if you made your email address visible in your member profile. We discourage posting your email address in a public message.

    tidester, host
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    My email is profile posted, if you want to send me yours, I will email file.
  • yngveyngve Posts: 12
    After burning 4+ quarts over the last 1400 miles regardless of what additives were added to the oil, My troop finally got traded in on a CPO Saab 9-5 wagon. As competent in the snow, faster, better handling, same interior space, 31+ mpg, and a warranty. Good luck y'all!

  • Did you get much for it? Did you tell the buyer about the oil consumption being 4qt ix 1400 miles? Just curious. I love my Trooper, but that much oil use would force me to give it up too. I would search for another Trooper to last till the diesel SUVs arrive. My wife would rather me get a compact sedan instead.
  • bawbcatbawbcat Posts: 118
    Sorry to hear about your Trooper experience, but good choice on the Saab, it's a great car. I have a Trooper and a 9-5 and really like them both. There is some great saab-specific info on the net.

    My 98 Troop uses some oil, but it's not terrible. The original owner changed oil only about every 7k miles with dino oil. I got the truck with about 50k miles on it. I change the oil every 5k with synthetic. The truck has about 70k now, and I probably have to add about 1 quart between my 5k oil changes.
  • elctpkelctpk Posts: 3
    thanks for all the input on my new trooper...i bought the rancho 9000s and also the Yokohama Geolandar tires...i put in the k&n air filter...nerf them..put on a outs..also vent visors..fog lights...clarion 6.5 dvd ..i LOVE my trooper...i will post a pic of it in the next couple of days..from before and comes to Check Engin Light ....the codes came up..and they where egr conc eff low bank one and g sensor.......HELP...i know the cat conv...but the rest i dont ...what do they do and i want my trooper to run the best i can make where can i get these is a 96..thanks i live in nd and the nearest isuzu dealer is in mn...about 600 miles...
  • I had the EGR code come up, so I had the EGR valve changed. The EGR valve going bad will cause irratic idle or when realy bad stalling, or no ability to idle. The EGR on my 2001 is easy to get at right on top of the engine near the firewall on the passenger side. I was told by my machanic that the labor for changing the EGR valve is for cleaning out the crusty buildup in the engine side of where the valve bolts on. I was also told that the EGR valve is a GM made part and is supposed to last the life of your Trooper, but some were made poorly, and the new replacement EGR valves are better and will last the life of your Trooper. You should have no trouble buying an EGR valve, look for discounts at St. Charles Isuzu. My Mechanic is Creech Imports which started out as an Isuzu only shop.
  • Happy new year!
    Wouldn't you know it, I'm the second owner of a '02 trooper with TOD and at 62, 200 miles, I sprang a leak. It's tranny fluid. I checked underneath the vehicle careful not to wipe off any telltale drips and found that it seems to be coming from the small oil pan in front of the big tranny oil pan. That's where the puddle is on the driveway. Anyway, I warmed up the trooper and put it in drive and nothing, must have lost most of the load. Was talking to the mechanic at the local service station and he said that the fluid fill is in a place that cannot be reached by lying down in the driveway. My secretary's husband is a mechanic and he said that '02 troopers do have a very small fill dip stick located on the passenger side top of the tranny behind the fire wall. Has anybody heard of this? Well, I don't think I'll be able to top it off in the drive like most normal vehicles, any suggestions on how to have the trooper towed? I am not in 4 wheel mode. Should I specify a flat bed? I think I'll will have our local service station mechnaic look at it. I'd like the pan dropped and the filter changed along with the fluid change. That's assuming the leak can be found. Any thoughts on what this might cost and any thing else that I might be able to do. Still winter time in NE and TOD is a great thing to have. Thanks!
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