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Isuzu Trooper



  • nytroopernytrooper Posts: 14
    They no longer make the PL24458, any suggestions for a larger capacity oil filter ? Or, is the PL14459 a new version with higher capacity ?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    The PL14459 is the regular size, the PL24458 was the extra capacity size of the PL14459.
    Note: The PL14459 is extremely common in Japanese vehicles, fits most Honda cars for example.
    Suggestion for a larger capacity filter: The thread is 20mm x 1mm, measure the filter seal location and then find dimensionally compatible other filters. I once found a reference for a much larger filter made for a diesel engine that would fit, but the pressure relief valve built inside the filter was too high a pressure compared with the PL14459. About that time I found the PL24458 by comparing dimensions and specs in the Purolator book, I used that as long as I could find it.
  • nytroopernytrooper Posts: 14
    Thanks, I've been through the Purolator website, link title and checked out the complete application list for both filters with the one for the PL14459 about triple the size. The majority of those for the PL24458 were for late 80s 4 cylinder models. This is where they note the PL14459 now supersedes the PL24458. Not sure if this was a cost cutting move or if they perhaps had increased the capacity of the PL14459. I realize the Pure One used to be considered the "gold standard", is it still ? Or would it be worth the time to explore a couple other top filter companies (suggestions ?) and see if they might have a cross reference to the larger PL24458 ?

    Related topic. Last oil change at 134K, I switched from Valvoline Max Life to SynPower, mainly using high octane, did switch down once, and the ticking started back intermittently. About to change the oil with 4K on it, but last tank used high octane, and it went away. Not bad considering it's been only 40 days since my last oil change !

    Strange oil change fact. After each, at about 1500 - 2000 miles I'm down about a quart, but at 4000 miles, perhaps a 1/4 quart low.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I recently drove a 6500 mile trip. The first 2500 miles used 3/4 quart or so. The middle 2000 miles in the mountains 5000 to 14000 feet altitude used no measurable amount of oil. The return trip again used oil, about 1/2 quart in 2000 miles.
    I use high octane gasoline to avoid preignition. I also use fuel injector cleaner (Valvoline or Lucas Oil brands) once in a while.
    I have 93K on a 2001 Trooper manual 5 speed. My best MPG was 22mpg in Yellowstone park at 45mph. Next best was 21mpg driving 65-70mph with a tailwind. My worst was 16mpg keeping up 65 to 80mph on 6% up hill grades with a sports car over the Rocky Mountain passes on Hwy70 West of Denver.
  • gtroopergtrooper Posts: 1
    My 89 2.4 5 spd trooper has a problem that I cant figure out. It started whining under load at about 1500rpm. It idles rough but was on blocks when I got it 3 months ago and I have done little to it (shameful). Also it doesnt seem to have much power, and tried to run hot along with the whining. I parked her as soon as I heard the noise and noticed the temp raising, I need some help getting pointed in the right direction.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I would do the stuff you do before buying a car: start with air cleaner and fuel filter condition then compression check and inspect the oil for water and water for oil, then go through everything looking for anything that seems not the way it should be. Next places to look: vaccum leak where air bypasses the carb and makes the engine run too lean and without much power. Inspect the spark plug wires and plugs. If these need a complete replace check out for a complete set of wires and plugs.
    Ask a great Trooper mechanic at
  • nytroopernytrooper Posts: 14
    Back from a 500 mile weekend through New Hampshire and Vermont. Easy 20/21 mpg highway. Ticking had returned pre-trip even with the high octane, ruled out that possibility. No time for an oil change, plus I want to do the research on an alternative solution for the PL24458. Decided to try the Greased Lightning oil additive for lifters, with the 4K old Syn oil. 5 minutes later she had quieted down, but returned after about 40 miles, however 500 miles later, she's very quiet and smooth, probably realizes fresh oil is coming tomorrow. Did manage to briefly cross reference other filter manufacturers who produce the comparable larger filter. Fram's 3593 series crosses to the PL24458, and the size when compared to the PL14459 is that 1" larger. Need spend some more time checking specs, I'd guess that they're Extended Guard is comparable in quality to the Pure One, but could use some input, think I'd like to try the Mobil One version if I can find one.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    The Fram 3593 is the same size as the smaller PL14459.
  • nytroopernytrooper Posts: 14
    K&N 1004 and Mobil M1-104 appear identical and both cross to the 14459 and 24458. Did notice the 3593 series also crossed to the 14459, but thought I did see a taller version at an Advanced Auto, possibly older stock before being phased out like the 24458. On my way back a little later to verify what I saw. If I can't track down the elusive larger one, then I'll most likely opt for the Mobil 1 at 10.95 vs 12.95 for the K&N, curious who's manufacturing for them ?
  • ingmaningman Posts: 1
    Hi my name is bob ingman. I live on remote island in SE alaska. My 91 trooper has a bad waterpump. I purchased another and began changing without a motor manual. I have removed the radiator to gain access to the components more easily. All has been a guessing game . Have reached the point of realizing that the lower timing cover must be removed to gain access to one of the pump mounting bolts. It seems that in order to remove the lover timing chain cover I must first remove the harmonic balancer (big pulley at bottom f engine). Is this correct? I am not able to hold the balancer in position formly enough to loosen the boly holding it. Any suggestions? Any help I can get will be appreciated. The cars sits disassembled right now. Thanks. Bob
  • tburketttburkett Posts: 1
    Looking at a 1999 Trooper, with 100K miles. Excellent shape and runs great. No ticking... ;) Is there anything else I should be looking for? This will be my third Isuzu in a row, had a 2000 Amigo, then a 2002 Axiom XS... looking to sell the Axiom and get something "cheaper". I have always loved the Trooper!! I just need some reliable basic transportation with plenty of room.

    I am aware of the major Isuzu issues, lack of dealers, etc... :(

    Any other issues I should be looking for??? Any advice is welcome.

    Thanks in advance,
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    When I purchased my third Trooper it was the first time a bought a used one. I found huge differences in the suspension and transmission performance in different copies of the same year Trooper.
    1.) Stay away from a Trooper that looks beat inside, because that means they probably have not done the maintenance.
    2.) See if all the tires are the same type and size, sleazy tire selection to save a buck also means they probably have not done the maintenance.
    3.) If the suspension feels worn out and the handling is very sloppy the Trooper has seen some very hard use. Do a good evaluation before buying, then upgrade using an OME or similar suspension upgrade kit.
    4.) Have a mechanic that you hire for $100 to $200 do a thourough check out of the new Trooper, this way you know what you are getting, remember engine/transmission replacement are far too expensive for a used car, unless you are emotioanlly attached to it.
    5.) If you buy it, have all the fluids changed right away. Do the 90K maintenance includes oils for engine, trans, xfer case, 4wd or TOD selector, power steering, front diff, rear diff, and engine coolant. I would also add a full flush of the brake master cylinder and lines. I did all of this on my 2001 Trooper when bought it had 30K miles. I have had 63K trouble free miles and am doing the 90K maintenance today. Doing the service might identify issued to take care of before they become a problem.
    Ask this discussion to tell you of particualar issued for your model. example on my 2001 the intake manifold gaskets are prone to crack, so check for the cracking and change them before dirt is sucked into the engine.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, Yes, you will have to remove the harmonic balancer to change the water pump. You will also need to remove the timing belt, and now is a good time to replace that if ithas not been done, the belt life is 60,ooo miles. If you are even half way to that, I would change it. You will also have to release the automatic tensioner for the belt. Note how it is removed so that you can reinstall properly. The trickiest part of your job is that the belt and timing marks on the timing gears are critical, and must be correct when performing the work. While you are doing this, it would help to put reference marks with a paint stick or marker on each gear pulley and the cylinder head so that when you replace the belt, the gears will be in the right place. The new belt will be marked for the direction of travel and have an indicator on it for timing placement. If you have already done all this, great. If not, In a couple days I can email you excerpts from manual, but you may not want to wait that long. One resource, not free, is, where you can purchase online access to a manual. If you wait until next Monday, I, or another forum member, can email you the manual instructions.
    To hold the balancer, a strap wrench will help if you have one. If not, I have used a piece of half inch rope and made a tourniqet with a screw driver on the balancer to hold it. You may need a balancer remover to pull the balancer off of the crankshaft. Be careful not to hammer or pry the balancer, as it can be damaged. There is an alignment groove and key that you will need to keep track of once you remove the balancer. Good luck. Let us know how you do!
  • kobokokoboko Posts: 34
    Hi, i just went thru exactly the same problem. it turned out to be a bad accelerator pedal sensor (remember this car has drive-by-wire). the part cost like $160, plus another $100 for labor. wasnt a cheap fix. dont waste time messing with catalytic converters or other stuff, this is an electrical problem. have autozone pull a code for you, that way you'll know for sure. good luck!
  • silverghostsilverghost Posts: 154
    Anyone have any experience servicing the Auto-Climate Control on an '01 Trooper? Mine (w/65K) has gotten to the point of running flat-out 100% of the time, with only marginal cooling effect. My guess is that the refrigerant level is low, so I'm driving with no A/C for the moment to avoid damaging the compressor until I can have it checked out.

    I had an Audi that developed a $1300 leak in the evaporator core at 50K. I'm hoping that's not the case with my Trooper.
  • laparka55laparka55 Posts: 8
    Hi all,

    I owned a sweet '92 Trooper for 12 years before I foolishly sold I am looking at a 2000 limited 4wd at a local shop down the street with 62K. They are asking 10500 which I think is high. Reading the posts, I am hesitant to buy -- transmissions, timing belts, oil consumption, ect. I've gathered quite a bit of helpful information from posts, but are there red flags I might check that would indicate whether to avoid this Trooper. Also, carfax showed it was a lease vehicle -- could this mean a rental?? I thought i read something about specific features of rental fleet vehicles??

    Any suggestions are appreciated...

    Thanks, Scott
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, You can also check out value at I ran a quick check and the value you show is in the ballpark.
    One big consideration for me would be how readily you can get service AND parts given Isuzu's departure from the American market. I have a 94 which my son drives, and I too like the older models, but they are not without their problems too. Manufacturers are only required to service emission parts and warranty parts for 10 years after discontinuance of a vehicle, so factor that in too!
    Good luck.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,981
    I think the rule is that parts need to be available for the warranty period to comply with UCC regs (I've read all sorts of opinions about this over the years here, so if you have a link I'd love to see it, since I've never found a definitive one. Or maybe I've forgotten it, lol).

    Even if there's no legal requirement, parts for 30 year old obscure models seem easy enough to find. Daewoo owners were very concerned when parts dried up, but that shortage only lasted a few months.

    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • bradespbradesp Posts: 21
    If I'm looking at buying a 2000, 2001 or 2002 Trooper. Can you recommend which you would buy and why? Obviously the newer models and lower mileage are obvious candidates, but what about comparing these three years in terms of durabilty and known problems that have been occuring between the 50k and 100K and beyond mileage levels.

    It seems the Tranny is the biggest risk with these vehicles??

  • lamprolampro Posts: 2
    Greetings. I own a 2001 Trooper that has begun missing at idle -intermittently. The onset of the problem coincided with the rear door lock (most distant) having trouble "unlocking." I am guessing this is probably a vacuum leak - probably at the intake manifold gasket which is apparently a common problem with this engine. My vehicle is used hard off and on road but maintained well. I live in a remote location, dealers and diagnostic apparatus are difficult to access and so far have done all my own engine work on this vehicle. So, cutting to the chase - does anyone have any ideas for confirming the problem short of popping the manifold off and looking? Trying not to create work for myself when not necessary. Any ideas appreciated.

    105K miles
    new timing belt, plugs

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