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Isuzu Trooper

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Comments

  • The OME suspension upgrade is the best was to keep your Trooper fun to drive. The OME suspension improvement is worth far more than they cost. I have used the soft version on my 1995 Trooper and the Medium stiffness version on my 2001 Trooper. Both are excellent on road, the shocks seem to be progressive just like the OME rear springs. Off road has been limited for me, but the OME shocks do very well over washboard road conditions and make judderbars (Australian for speed bumps) a lot more comfortable to cross.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I have the shocks too and they are fantastic. They take a pounding off-road and never fade. Stock shocks over the sand-dunes of Nantucket would be toast after 15 minutes, these kept going and going.

    Been real busy at work the last year so I haven't posted much lately...but if you are considering shocks, I don't think you can do better for the Trooper.
  • My 2001 Trooper has always used alot of oil. About 1 qt per 1000miles...I dont think that it is leaking, because it is kept in a garage and I see no stains on the floor.
    I have used Mobil 1 10w30 for the past 135,000 miles, it now has 215,000 miles.
    ???s should I swicth to a heavier oil? 20w50 or 10w40?
    One more, I also used K&N Oil filters.
    Thanks to all.....
  • bitsy3bitsy3 Posts: 4
    #480 of 497 2001 Isuzu Trooper by bitsy3 Jan 16, 2007 (11:35 am)
    Reply | E-mail Msg
    Replaced TPS, EGR, Throttle Body, Motor on Throttle body total after second trip to dealer. $1600.00 and still have problems. Engine ran fine for 65 miles and I stopped and got back in it. Problem with smoothering not idling, then running 0-1500rpms, dying and acting up. Drove another 200 miles and would die when stopping. The next morning it cranks and seems to run okay. It seems to temperature and distance/time related. Does anyone have any ideas? All help appreciated. Started to Fluctuate RPM and Smothering and dying again
  • serranotserranot Posts: 113
    It's your intake manifold gasket. Whoever you're bringing it to should try this first. It's common and a cheap fix.

    Regards,
    Tom
  • bitsy3bitsy3 Posts: 4
    Thanks for the information.
  • I bought my 99 Trooper about two weeks ago. The third day I had it the check engine light came on, but went off later that day. It has been coming on and off ever since. The car is inspected till Aug 07, has a clean title, 82,400 miles and looks to be in great condition (no rust, interior in great shape, etc.). The problem is that I get about 4-5 miles per gallon in the city, which I know is not typical. Any ideas? I am not what you would call a car person, so I want to be armed with a little knowledge before to mechanic tries to rape me. Thanks to all responders.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    If the CEL is coming on, then you are probably running in a open-loop IIRC mode which dumps fuel at the highest rate.

    -mike
  • Is your Trooper in 4wd all the time?

    For a new owner of a Trooper: check that all the tires are the same size and close in the amount of wear so that the limited slip does not get hot.
  • Had problem w/94 trooper -changed wires&plugs(were original)-same problem then changed ignition module with one laying around mechanics garage (trying to eliminate problem before buying new). Symptoms went away so purchased new module to replace when used one acts up. I know that not changing the plugs& wires would foul module but would old O2 sensor foul it too? I bet its original. Mechanic says no since CEL would come on constant not just just sometimes. Right now car runs rough then CEL come on and it takes off like a rocket. I don't want to replace the module to just have it fouled out again by a bad O2. :confuse:
  • kobokokoboko Posts: 34
    I too have had the 2nd to 1st clunk for sometime now on my 2001 Trooper, somehow I dont remember it being there when the car was new... but one thing I did notice is that it gets much better after lubing the propeller shaft. I have a feeling the clunk sound is coming form the universal joint or somewhere in the shaft-- but probably triggered by something else (such as the torque converter releasing). It definitely sounds quieter & more muffled after the lube, also if I brake suddenly & it downshifts fast, then i dont hear the clunk at all-- only hear it at slow downshifts. just my 2 cents. thanks!
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Yep, its a trait of the 99' I think. I've had the same 'issue' with my 99' for as long as I can remember. There is 'slack' somewhere in the system. I've had the propeller shaft replaced by the dealer and that didn't fix the problem, or deminish it at all. It also seems to be ambient temperature sensitive. Oh well, I've become accustomed to it, and will live with it another 100K miles.

    I have NOT experienced it with my 01' Trooper though. She now has 65K miles on her and she runs just like she did when new. Really tight body, suspension, and plenty of Gooo.
    :)
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    I thought I'd pass this along: I had my drivers window hang up on me the other day. Wouldn't go up or down without a helping hand. I had noticed that when it was going down just previous to this failure, that it was getting really SLOW, and was pulling the rubber gasket downward out of the front part of the door frame.

    Turns out the plastic clips that retain the glass to the regulator mechanism, one of them had broken. I was told it would take a complete window replacement by the dealer. NO WAY !! I went to my local auto glass shop, he happened to have some 'universal' clips and the special adhesive, so he fixed me up for about $19. The important thing was to spray the window guides down thoroughly with Silicone Spray. That window never worked so good !! :) It hardly slows down now as it disappears into the door.

    And, these windows do NOT have the wire cable drive system. They have a sissor frame driven by a large rotating gear mechanism.
  • I/ve got a 2001 trooper that does the exact same thing -- 2nd to 1st downshift clunks. After I come to a complete stop -- if I let off the brake I feel the clunk from the downshift. Considering my wife has only had the car 2 mo. I was stressed I had a serious tranny issue.

    This is normal??
  • kobokokoboko Posts: 34
    My 2001 Trooper does the same, ie after coming to a complete stop & letting off on the brake I feel a clunk. However, it only does that like 50% of the time, but has been there ever since i bought the truck new. i would relax & not worry, these are great trucks overall, so enjoy your new buy!
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    My dad is telling me that after having his fluid topped off in the trans, the clunk was significantly reduced. It could be related to that.

    -mike
  • Paisan?? Is that YOU???

    Anyway, my 2001 2WD blew it's tranny around 60k, but Isuzu put a new one in under the warranty. I'm nearing 120k with a little trepidation, since the next $4k tranny WON'T be covered by them.....

    That said, I love my Trooper - classy styling, overall very reliable, and a lot of room.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    That's me!

    -mike
  • I have a 92 trooper and i have all kinds of problems. Whenever I would be driving normal and then hit heavy traffic conditions and my engine would turn off. I would try restarting it, It would turn over, rev up, and turn back off again. after a dozen tries i can get it going again. any ideas? also, the other day it just wouldn't start at all. its still cranking, but it wont turn over. also my a/c and heater dont work but I think I have figured those ones out. can anyone help me?
  • i recently had the same problem. i own a 95' trooper and when i would ever go over about 3000 rpms it would almost shut of while coming to a stop. when i came to the bottom of hills i wouldnt even notice until i started to drive again but the car would also be off. i had the same problems when trying to start it and my engine light also came on if i stayed at a high speed for just a mile. i brought it to my mechanic and he found it to be the speed sensor. runs awesome now. it cost me about 150 for the sensor plus labor. hope that helps.
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