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Isuzu Trooper

1566567569571572582

Comments

  • matausmataus Posts: 43
    I was wondering. I have a Auto Zone right by my house. If I take the chance and drive my truck down there, will they be able to plug my truck in to check for ECM errors? Do you think with my issue, it would be a good thing to do? I was able to download the error code sheet from the internet.

    Tracy
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    If you have OBDll then AZ may be able to check for you. If you are pre 96 then chances go way down they will have the right adapter. Doesn't cost anything to ask!! Good luck.
  • Went for inspection and the mechanic said the u joints won't make it through another inspection. I'm not a mechanic but I thought the u joints were in the rear. Anyway took trooper to my boyfriend and confirmed u joints in rear but checked front for play. We did notice a very slight play in front on both sides(side to side and up and down) but wondered if this is normal. Tires are not wearing or feathered. We have never touched the bearings and don't want to err. Oh, tie rods and ball joints seem okay. Any ideas? :confuse:
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Ok, are you sure he did not say the CV joints, which are located in the front axles? Worn CV joints would not influence the alignment of your truck. If they are worn, you would probably only notice them if you are in 4WD and turning as you drive.... a shuddering and or clicking noise often accompanies their failure. Look at the rubber boots around them for tears or leaks. It is a big job to repair them, many people just buy the rebuilt replacement shafts. If you don't do much off roading that is probably the cheapest way to go.
    To check for ball joint wear, jack up each side of the front until there is clearance under the tire, slide a pry bar or other lever under the tire and try lifting it or moving it in or out. Any slop while doing this would indicate worn ball joints or bushings. Have someone observe the mounting locations while doing this to detect where the movement is occuring. The inner and outer wheel bearings require adjustment periodically, along with lubrication. I think Isuzu recommends every 30,000 miles or so. Make sure they are adjusted and that movement, if any, of the the wheel is not due to loose bearings. HTH
  • I'm in the process of selling my 2000 Limited 4wd and a buyer was interested in exporting the vehicle overseas. Any idea what country would most demand the Trooper?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Troopers were rebadged in other countries, but many are rh drive. Britain and Australia have active Trooper/Bighorn Forums. HTH
  • oldgoat3oldgoat3 Posts: 4
    i just did a motor swap for one of my best customers. it is a 98 trooper. before i put the used motor in i thought it wise to put a fresh belt on. to make a long story short, it is running like sh** and has no power at all. i tore it down and the crank is one tooth off the new belt from gates has the typical 2 solid lines and one dotted if you put the cams in the correct place, the dotted line for crank mark will not make it down to the notch on the crank pulley, so the first time i put it in one tooth off but on the line. the second time i make sure all marks (cams and crank gear/pulley were dead on to the marks on the motor, either way no power rough running. now with all marks on gears correct but one tooth off according to belt im get a slight puffing back through the air cleaner box, which tells me i have intake valves open on the compression stroke. i had the same problem a while back on a 3.2 rodeo. what is the secrete or trick to getting these POS correct? help please !! my customer is a young sweety who is balling her eyes out since friday!
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Looking for opinions on what to do with this truck as well as thoughts about the transmission problem...

    My parents bought my 1998 Trooper w/Performance Package from me a couple years ago. It had 120k miles and very very few problems in all the time I had it. Since they took it over, it has had nothing but problems.

    My Dad is going to get rid of it because of the latest problem -- trans is not working right, rarely shifts into 2nd gear and won't go past that. I don't know the details, but the local shop said a rebuilt transmission would run $800-1,000 and a new trans would be quite a bit more, I think my Dad said $2-3k.

    That price quote for the rebuilt trans seems VERY reasonable -- is it way too low?

    I think the problem may have started when my Dad had the trans flushed about a year ago, approx 130k miles on vehicle. I warned him not to do it

    My Dad is leaning toward donating the vehicle but with the current IRS rules, I don't think he will get much out of this.

    Selling it might be an option, but who would buy a truck that needs a new transmission? I'd love to get him to fix it then sell it, but I don't think he is willing to sink any more money into it.

    Parting the truck out might not be worth it, but I wanted to explore all options. I've convinced him to let me help remove the running boards and sell those on Craigslist, so that's a start.

    Overall, the truck is in solid shape -- the TOD system still works, everything inside is functional and the upholstery is still in nice shape. One ding on right rear above the taillight and some bubbling rust at the bottom of the window on rear door. Other than that the exterior is pretty sound.
  • oldgoat3oldgoat3 Posts: 4
    the trans in that trooper is a gm trans the one im doing just had one doen before she bought it. that guy had one completely done converter and all for 1400.00 that was labor for the R & R as well. if it has a 3.5 i learning that these paticular motors have all kinds of other issues such as ab-normal oil use, piston slap, all kinds of stuff. nothing personal to the guys here on this forum but i think over all the 3.2 and the 3.5 are junk motors terrible duability and dependability.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    the 3.5 is a different timing arrangement as far as the cam to timing pulley....it is a different ratio so since you ran the engine and it was off, it is not as easy to start over. Basically you have to get bot timing pulleys back to the right sequence. it will require you to either remove the timing cover OR use the "feel" method to get each cam timed to the pistons position. There is a method to do this, but I am on vacation and do not have access to it now. Try going to planetisuzu.com and search the engine and drivetrain forum for "timing belt" or similar.
    There is an awes ome post there that gives an easy description on how to do it.
  • oldgoat3oldgoat3 Posts: 4
    thanx mike to make clear i do understand the ratio and how it chages as soon as you start the motor. but, tdc is still tdc and both or should i say all three times i have re-done the belt i have completely tore it down. and you can get to the entire set up and just put the vibration damper and rad. back in (so trany lines dont pump fluid al over) and fire it up to check. only the markes on the belt will not line up again the marks on the gears and how they are matched up to the marks on the heads and front cover for the crank gear will line back up when you are on the compeasion stroke at TDC. that is where it is now and dead on right. im thinking that the cams have to be a half tooth advanced in order for the crank to be where "they" want it. im going to head back out and give it hell thanx for the tip on planetisuzu. ....ross
  • I have owned a 1999 trooper 3.5L for 2 years and it currently has 137k on it. My son took it out for a spin and brought it back with a very loud clacking noise coming from the engine. Any ideas? It has to be serious, my real question is - is this motor worth rebuilding? Are there any GM engines I might throw in this thing instead?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    When the timing belt tensioner pusher goes bad, it can sound like a bad rod knock. If you rev the motor over 2500 RPM and it diminishes or goes away, that is a pretty good sign it is the belt and tensioner. It is pretty common, and while it can be a little pricey if you pay someone to do it, It is not a bad job. Good idea to do the water pump and idler pulley and tensioner pulley at the same time. HOpe this helps.
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    I don't think there's much of the demand for the gas version outside of the US (maybe Russia but I wouldn't risk it.) Most (and the Troopers were rare to begin with) had diesel commonrail engines and those you could potentially resell. The EU has outrageous prices for cars and SUVs especially, so any European country would be ok but, again, gas prices are the death sentence for the Trooper unless converted to liquified natural gas, so the Netherlands, Germany or Poland (where this is cheap and common) are safe bets.

    It pays to export RAVs, CRVs, even US Benzes and BMWs and especially Subarus to Europe now. The prices are literally triple on some of these, so even after all the fees (transport being the least of all) you can still make a good profit.
  • ghost329ghost329 Posts: 9
    I'M NEW TO THIS AND HOPING I CAN BE HELPED. LAST MAY MY 99 TROOPER STARTED HAVING ENGINE PROBLEMS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF COLORADO. I WAS TOLD THAT IT WOULD BE BEST TO TAKE IT INTO A MITSUBISHI DEALERSHIP THAT A FRIEND OF MINE HAD GOOD RELATIONSHIPS WITH. WHEN I GOT IT THERE THEY TOLD ME THAT THE WHOLE ENGINE HAD TO BE REPLACED. IT WAS MAKING KNOCKING NOISES. A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO I WANTED TO DRIVE IT DOWN THE ROAD FOR A 2ND OPINION BUT NOW IT WON'T START. WHEN I TRY TO CHARGE IT THE RADIO LIGHTS AND STUFF WILL POP ON FOR A SPLIT SECOND AND THAT'S AS FAR AS IT WILL GO. ANY SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT WOULD CAUSE IT NOT TO START AND WHAT DO YOU SUGGEST FOR THE ENGINE PRICE THEY TOLD ME 3000 FOR USED 4000 FOR NEW?
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,968
    Welcome to the forum.

    Posts written in ALL CAPS are hard to read so I suggest you not use them. Many people just skip over posts in all caps.

    A friend of mine got a crate engine for his older F-150 for $5,000 a few months ago. That was a Ford rebuild and came with a 3/36 warranty. The no-name crate engine was going to cost $4,000 installed with a 1/12 warranty. That's in Boise - labor may be cheaper in your area.
  • ghost329ghost329 Posts: 9
    Hey thanks, that makes since about the caps.
    So do you have any suggestions about getting it started because I don't want to have to toll it everywhere to get estimates and all that. Do you think it might be the ignition or starter and if so how hard would it be to replace.
    I live on a military base and they have an autocraft shop where I would have all the tools to do it.
    Is it worth a shot to try replace one at a time and see if it works or just take it in?
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,968
    Ah, military - ok, that explains the all caps. :)

    I'm not much of a mechanic so ... I've hung around a base wood working shop a few times and the people there were always willing to help, so why not ask around there?

    Don't know about getting it started either - it sounds like it's cranking so maybe a fuel issue? But if the engine is toast, I don't know. It's not clear to me whether you've tried to jump start it or just are charging the battery. Maybe the battery has a bad cell along with the other problems. Tried any starting fluid?

    Can any Troopers owners help?
  • budermbuderm Posts: 9
    i have a 2000 isuzu trooper and all of a sudden from out of nowhere, my power locks on the doors wont lock. They will all unlock both from the remote and the inside door unlock switches, however they wont lock either way. I manually have to lock the doors. Any help / suggestions?

    Also does anyone know a place to get the speed sensors (auto 4wd TOD) for the trooper other than from the dealer?

    Thanks
  • Thanks for the advice. I eased into, everything fine with the timing belt. Decided to pull motor and found a spun rod bearing on #1 cylinder. Now if i can found out how to remove timing belt with out losing the timing settings, i will remove the crank and have it turned and install new bearings and put this thing back on the road.
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