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Ford Fusion/Mercury Milan Maintenance & Repair

135

Comments

  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    I see no one has answered your question and you posted in January. If you are still around, yes the 3.0 DOHC in the current Fusion is the same engine as the DOHC Taurus, but with some tweaks, such as increased HP and torque, probably other modifications as well, and it is linked to a 6 speed transmission rather than the 4 speed when it was in Taurus. I have this engine in my 2000 Taurus now at 79k miles and it has been a great engine. For that matter, the car as a whole has been excellent.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,668
    They added variable cam timing to that engine in the 2000 Lincoln LS version which I don't think was on the Taurus version and that's what was used in the 06-09 Fusions - more or less. For 2010 the 3.0L got a lot of updates resulting in more power while keeping the same fuel economy - and it was upgraded to be flex-fuel capable. The 2010 Fusion also offers the new 3.5L Duratec V6.
  • jj48jj48 Posts: 1
    I HAVE 2007 FORD FUSION WITH A POPING SOUND IN IT DEALER CAN NOT FIND IT THEY HAVE HAD THE CAR FOR OVER A MONTH ANYBODY HAVE ANY IDEALS OUT THERE JJ48
  • stephen987stephen987 Posts: 1,994
    Don't yell, please. We have lots of ideals. When does it pope?
  • I would take it to another dealership for service.They are not all the same.You could just need a minor linkage adjustment,but I wouldn't wait too long you could ruin a gear. Good luck
  • Read your warranty.I believe all Fords have a bumper to bumper 36000/three year or better warranty.
    Good luck
  • ktmaiktmai Posts: 1
    My 2006 Fusion sounds like it is having the exact same problem. What year is your Fusion?

    Any updates on what you found out? And/or price of the clutch. My dealer quoted me $1200 and I thought they were just trying to rip me off because I'm a female/college-student.
  • The clutch was around that amount to fix each time. Actually ended up having two clutches and an engine put into this car. The engine was under warranty, but after having it replaced, I decided I wanted a car that can actually be driven, instead of sitting in a mechanic's workshop. So I ditched the car.

    My advice to you - get the clutch fixed, then trade it in. Not worth the hassle.
  • lazzolazzo Posts: 8
    My new Fusion is making a gurgling noise when I press down on the accelerator.
    This always happens when the car is just started (cold), but occaisonally happens under normal conditions. I took it to a dealer and of course the car was warmed up and they could find nothing wrong. They tested the pressure as well and said it was fine. I guess my next option would be to leave the car at the dealer for a while so they can hear the noise when cold.

    I did find this post online which sounds very similar:
    http://www.justanswer.com/questions/2q7xp-2010-ford-fusion-makes-gurgling-sound-- when-accelerating-can

    Anyone else have this "noise?" Any ideas what it could be?
  • xmechxmech Posts: 90
    "They tested the pressure as well and said it was fine. "

    What pressure?

    I've seen similar issue on another forum, and they suspect air in the coolant system, and you're hearing it gurgle in the heater core. Forgot if a flush helped, search some other Ford Fusion forums and I think you'll find it. I'll post back if I see it again and have the time.
  • lazzolazzo Posts: 8
    "What pressure?"

    Pressure check to see if there was a leak in the coolant system. They said there was not. Let me know what you find.
    I've seen a number of forums but no solutions.
  • xmechxmech Posts: 90
    Hope I'm not breaking any forum rules here, but there is this thread:

    http://www.fordfusionforum.com/index.php?/topic/3085-2010-fusion-sloshing-sound-- - when-first-driven/

    Unfortunately it appears they don't have a solution yet. I guess it's one you've seen already?
  • lazzolazzo Posts: 8
    xmech,

    Yes, that fordfusionforum sums it up nicely. That is the exact problem I am having.
    Is there a way to contact Ford to let them know we are having this issue?
    Or is bringing it to the dealer for service good enough?
  • xmechxmech Posts: 90
    I'm pretty sure there is a place in Ford you can contact, and the info should be in one of the manuals you got with the car, but I haven't dealt with anything like that before. I've read of other people going this route, but I haven't ever had any issues nearly bad enough to require this. You may have to have repeated unsatisfactory dealer visits before they would step in and do anything. I'm not having this gurgling issue. Had the slow crank/no start issue, and the dealer did the TSB, no problem. Good luck, and I hope there is a solid solution soon.
  • I was the one who started the thread in Fordfusionforum discussing the problem. I would take the car to the dealer and reference the forum comments and solutions so far that haven't worked. The most recent one today discusses the placement of the coolant supply lines to the heater core. Interestingly enough, and I verified it, you can't order a replacement core because that part has been recalled!

    The more people with this problem who take their 2010 Fusions with this problem to the dealer, the more Ford will be ready to fix it. Remember the old adage....the squeaky gear gets the grease.
  • lazzolazzo Posts: 8
    68jode,

    If the 2010 Fusion's Heater Core has been recalled why haven't we received any word from Ford on replacing it? Is this something that just takes time?

    My tech told me that Service Bulletins only come out once a quarter. So perhaps this recall will hit the streets in early March?

    Yes, I have been following FordFusionForum.com daily. My dealer only wants to "burp" the air out like already has been tried and failed, as you guys proved.
    Frustrating!
  • bud42bud42 Posts: 2
    Is this only a 4 cyl problem or does it also apply to the V6? Does anyone know?
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,668
    The gurgling is limited to the 2.5L engines.

    There was no RECALL on the heater cores. It's an extended warranty in case a problem occurs. It's not a safety issue.
  • Any one out there ever re-indexed their Fusion AWD drive shaft to eliminate the vibration. Mine vibrates at between 50-65 mph. I do my own mechanical work, but don't know how much Ford recommends to index it. If the indexing don't work , then I will have to put the up-dated drive shaft in it. Thanks if you can help.
  • newowner10newowner10 Posts: 227
    edited April 2010
    I just purchased a 2010 SEL 3.0 Liter Fusion. I have the maintenance schedule and the owners manual. I do not see basic information like how to change the oil or the cabin air-filter. I see how to check the oil level and things like that but not how to perform normal user maintenance items. Is there a separate book I should also have received? Is this information available on-line? Hyundai had an on-line manual that was like the dealers service manual. . My Nissan I purchased a CD with the dealer type information on Ebay for $20 also. I do not need this much information. I need to know what to torque the oil filter and drain plug to and normal owner type information. Is there a book available with the user maintenance information? How close would the 2009 be? I see these CD's for less than $20.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,618
    if you have a vibration all the time, maybe it is a tire?
  • koho955koho955 Posts: 97
    I've had my 2010 Fusion since November (4,000 miles). Anytime I would open the hood, the engine was quiet and all I heard was that nice quiet ticking sound that engines make these days. That all changed after my first oil change. Now I can barely hear the ticking sound because the engine has a very load grumbling idle. I hear this loud engine idle at a stoplights over the radio. If I turn off the radio and the heat/air system the noise is just plain loud.
    Maybe a loose belt? Any ideas out there???
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,668
    Check the air intake and air filter housing. Also check for loose or missing caps. It could also be the exhaust but that would be a coincidence having nothing to do with the service.
  • inkieinkie Posts: 281
    edited April 2010
    Just came home with a 2010 SE and started to check the car out. Was surprised to see the bottom of the engine all covered up. Just curious, where is the oil plug and filter? I too, am surprised their is not much info in the manual on basic maintenance. Although Fords manual does not list any place I can get a shop manual, I will try Helm and hopefully they will have one. :confuse: :confuse: .
  • newowner10newowner10 Posts: 227
    I experienced the same think. No information in the owners manual for normal maintenance. I purchased a DVD on E-Bay for $25
  • inkieinkie Posts: 281
    I will answer my own query to post 85. Second day I have car opened hood to check fluid levels and I saw the oil filter [non-permissible content removed]"y. Its at the bottom of the engine in the front center. You can't miss it because its a large screw on filter. You have to remove the bottom cover to get at it and I am sure the oil plug is somewhere nearby.
  • cannon3cannon3 Posts: 296
    Spread the word. The cause of this air bag light coming on may be caused by a battery issue. I found this information on the internet when mine started coming on this last week. The dealer tested by cranking power and it was way down. This will cause weird fault codes. Changed the battery and its fine now.
  • andy1050andy1050 Posts: 2
    edited November 2010
    For those of you who DO change your own oil and filter, this can be of interest.

    I've "done my own" for the past 30 years or so. Saves time and money for me, and also have seen too many mistakes when someone else changes my oil...even for such a basic automotive procedure by factory service or independents.

    Relating to the 2.5, 4-cyl engine (2010 model Milan):

    On the Mercury Milan (probably the Fusion clone, too) the oil filter and oil drain
    plug are under the car and covered by plastic/composite sheeting for aerodynamic
    purposes, I imagine. Each cover has an embossed label on it, easy to see. The oil
    filter access cover is forward and secured by five (5) hex screws. One, 10-mm and
    four, 7-mm screws. Time consuming, even if crawling under an elevated front-end.
    It is a somewhat rectangular cover. The filter is the standard spin on, spin off type, and suggest using a cap wrench fitting on it. When dropping the filter, a lot of oil
    will spill down, onto your hand if not careful. Beware when oil is HOT! Wear neoprene gloves. Hot 5w20 oil looks/feels water-thin and it splashes.

    Oil drain plug is about 14" rearward of the filter opening. The a plastic covering is
    secured by one, 7-mm hex screw and a tab insert, opposite This is a round shaped plastic cover.

    The oil drain plug has a 13-mm hex fitting, and it is mounted horizontally and oil
    empties vigorously to the rear of the car. The 5w20 oil flows straight out, even when
    cold, from the drain plug location at the rear-side of the engine oil pan. So, guard against over-run of your oil catch pan(s) carefully, maybe use a funnel type
    of shield to avoid oil splash. Or, use two pans...one for filter spillage and one for the
    drain hole "forceful pee-out" on the backside of the engine oil pan.

    So, the self-oil change drill is a bit more complex than in most cars. Take notes on
    how this is done so you have your own guide for the next time (that's my best method for remembering).

    GM cars are now starting to put oil filter access top-side, just as they did in the
    early 50's. Smart move. Easy, compared to the under-car filter drop that always
    spills oil down your hand.

    For your 4-cyl. Milan or Fusion:

    Topside on the engine, oil fill and dip-stick check are fairly standard. The dip-stick
    does have a notch that must be fitted when securing and it's easy to overlook this.
    Look for this notch on the stick neck, just below the round finger-pull (yellow).

    If overlooked, the stick will fit about 1/2" high (not fully seated) and a small amount
    of oil will spray out at speed, over time. Yes, that 5w20 oil flows like water when hot or even just warm. Check this to avoid a small oil-slick coating in your engine
    compartment.

    Oil filters in major brands for this car (like Motorcraft and Fram) are readily available and cheaper compared to most types. Also, Motorcraft (Ford Motor Brand) 5w20 synthetic blend oil is available at Wal Mart and comparatively reasonable, too.
    Sold in red, 5-quart containers.

    Now you are set. Just plan for a little extra time when doing the oil change and filter yourself (mainly due to the cover removals and care with the drain plug gush).

    Andy.
  • xmechxmech Posts: 90
    Thanks for the info Andy1050. It's nice to know something about what to expect for even this kind of job before starting.
  • podpod Posts: 176
    I have an I4 2010 Milan which so far has greatly exceeded my high expectations in all regards. I am a stickler (some would say-obsessed) for a quiet ride and that is one of the reasons I chose Milan over Fusion. I beleive the Mercs have more noise quieting features. This is in no way a complaint but when I hear noises I go on a mission to track them down. Some unexpected sources of minor noise that I have discovered:
    1) rear bumper plastic cover. This is remarkably loosely attached to the bumper at the bottom. It is of course concave in its contour and if you just pull back on it and let it snap back it is noisy (to me). I imagine at high speed it acts like a sail and with change in direction (whether road or wind) it could cause noise. I intend to anchor and foam fill it to alleviate the problem (real or not).
    2) I am a golfer and love the big trunk. While fiddling about the trunk I discovered a metal divot repair tool that had fallen into the right sided aperture that houses the jack, funnel and other paraphenalia. The rear of this space has no insulation or carpeting (there is a carpeted flap on top but things can fall through as the divot tool did. The surface is not flat and it was contributing a rattle at certain speeds. There is a similar carpeted flap on the left rear floor of the trunk. Look in there for fallen objects before you look elsewhere. I may stick some padding in there for good measure.
    3) the dealer license plate holders were a rattle source desite the attachment screws being tight. A foam shim solved that problem. Be sure to use four screws to fasten the plate since some of the holders allow the plate to rattle in the wind.
    4) It is now a wonderfully quiet car (it was good as delivered but these fine tunings have further pleased my sound sensitive ears). There remains one intermittent very low frequency "moaning" that is not speed sensitive or rpm sensitive which has thusfar eluded my search. I note that there are many shields on the underside of the engine and the chassis but since I do not have a lift I haven't been able to properly scrutinize them as a possible source. I do not have AWD. It sounds like a tire noise (in frequency) but is not. It does not seem sensitive to road surface type. It has me baffled (no pun intended).

    A great car. I also love that you can turn off all the inside dash and door lights while night driving. Dark and quiet--that's my preference.

    If there are any other noise knuckleheads like me who have discovered minor noise sources please share in this forum.
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