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Ford Fusion/Mercury Milan Maintenance & Repair



  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,614
    if you have a vibration all the time, maybe it is a tire?
  • koho955koho955 Posts: 97
    I've had my 2010 Fusion since November (4,000 miles). Anytime I would open the hood, the engine was quiet and all I heard was that nice quiet ticking sound that engines make these days. That all changed after my first oil change. Now I can barely hear the ticking sound because the engine has a very load grumbling idle. I hear this loud engine idle at a stoplights over the radio. If I turn off the radio and the heat/air system the noise is just plain loud.
    Maybe a loose belt? Any ideas out there???
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,665
    Check the air intake and air filter housing. Also check for loose or missing caps. It could also be the exhaust but that would be a coincidence having nothing to do with the service.
  • inkieinkie Posts: 281
    edited April 2010
    Just came home with a 2010 SE and started to check the car out. Was surprised to see the bottom of the engine all covered up. Just curious, where is the oil plug and filter? I too, am surprised their is not much info in the manual on basic maintenance. Although Fords manual does not list any place I can get a shop manual, I will try Helm and hopefully they will have one. :confuse: :confuse: .
  • newowner10newowner10 Posts: 227
    I experienced the same think. No information in the owners manual for normal maintenance. I purchased a DVD on E-Bay for $25
  • inkieinkie Posts: 281
    I will answer my own query to post 85. Second day I have car opened hood to check fluid levels and I saw the oil filter [non-permissible content removed]"y. Its at the bottom of the engine in the front center. You can't miss it because its a large screw on filter. You have to remove the bottom cover to get at it and I am sure the oil plug is somewhere nearby.
  • cannon3cannon3 Posts: 296
    Spread the word. The cause of this air bag light coming on may be caused by a battery issue. I found this information on the internet when mine started coming on this last week. The dealer tested by cranking power and it was way down. This will cause weird fault codes. Changed the battery and its fine now.
  • andy1050andy1050 Posts: 2
    edited November 2010
    For those of you who DO change your own oil and filter, this can be of interest.

    I've "done my own" for the past 30 years or so. Saves time and money for me, and also have seen too many mistakes when someone else changes my oil...even for such a basic automotive procedure by factory service or independents.

    Relating to the 2.5, 4-cyl engine (2010 model Milan):

    On the Mercury Milan (probably the Fusion clone, too) the oil filter and oil drain
    plug are under the car and covered by plastic/composite sheeting for aerodynamic
    purposes, I imagine. Each cover has an embossed label on it, easy to see. The oil
    filter access cover is forward and secured by five (5) hex screws. One, 10-mm and
    four, 7-mm screws. Time consuming, even if crawling under an elevated front-end.
    It is a somewhat rectangular cover. The filter is the standard spin on, spin off type, and suggest using a cap wrench fitting on it. When dropping the filter, a lot of oil
    will spill down, onto your hand if not careful. Beware when oil is HOT! Wear neoprene gloves. Hot 5w20 oil looks/feels water-thin and it splashes.

    Oil drain plug is about 14" rearward of the filter opening. The a plastic covering is
    secured by one, 7-mm hex screw and a tab insert, opposite This is a round shaped plastic cover.

    The oil drain plug has a 13-mm hex fitting, and it is mounted horizontally and oil
    empties vigorously to the rear of the car. The 5w20 oil flows straight out, even when
    cold, from the drain plug location at the rear-side of the engine oil pan. So, guard against over-run of your oil catch pan(s) carefully, maybe use a funnel type
    of shield to avoid oil splash. Or, use two for filter spillage and one for the
    drain hole "forceful pee-out" on the backside of the engine oil pan.

    So, the self-oil change drill is a bit more complex than in most cars. Take notes on
    how this is done so you have your own guide for the next time (that's my best method for remembering).

    GM cars are now starting to put oil filter access top-side, just as they did in the
    early 50's. Smart move. Easy, compared to the under-car filter drop that always
    spills oil down your hand.

    For your 4-cyl. Milan or Fusion:

    Topside on the engine, oil fill and dip-stick check are fairly standard. The dip-stick
    does have a notch that must be fitted when securing and it's easy to overlook this.
    Look for this notch on the stick neck, just below the round finger-pull (yellow).

    If overlooked, the stick will fit about 1/2" high (not fully seated) and a small amount
    of oil will spray out at speed, over time. Yes, that 5w20 oil flows like water when hot or even just warm. Check this to avoid a small oil-slick coating in your engine

    Oil filters in major brands for this car (like Motorcraft and Fram) are readily available and cheaper compared to most types. Also, Motorcraft (Ford Motor Brand) 5w20 synthetic blend oil is available at Wal Mart and comparatively reasonable, too.
    Sold in red, 5-quart containers.

    Now you are set. Just plan for a little extra time when doing the oil change and filter yourself (mainly due to the cover removals and care with the drain plug gush).

  • xmechxmech Posts: 90
    Thanks for the info Andy1050. It's nice to know something about what to expect for even this kind of job before starting.
  • podpod Posts: 176
    I have an I4 2010 Milan which so far has greatly exceeded my high expectations in all regards. I am a stickler (some would say-obsessed) for a quiet ride and that is one of the reasons I chose Milan over Fusion. I beleive the Mercs have more noise quieting features. This is in no way a complaint but when I hear noises I go on a mission to track them down. Some unexpected sources of minor noise that I have discovered:
    1) rear bumper plastic cover. This is remarkably loosely attached to the bumper at the bottom. It is of course concave in its contour and if you just pull back on it and let it snap back it is noisy (to me). I imagine at high speed it acts like a sail and with change in direction (whether road or wind) it could cause noise. I intend to anchor and foam fill it to alleviate the problem (real or not).
    2) I am a golfer and love the big trunk. While fiddling about the trunk I discovered a metal divot repair tool that had fallen into the right sided aperture that houses the jack, funnel and other paraphenalia. The rear of this space has no insulation or carpeting (there is a carpeted flap on top but things can fall through as the divot tool did. The surface is not flat and it was contributing a rattle at certain speeds. There is a similar carpeted flap on the left rear floor of the trunk. Look in there for fallen objects before you look elsewhere. I may stick some padding in there for good measure.
    3) the dealer license plate holders were a rattle source desite the attachment screws being tight. A foam shim solved that problem. Be sure to use four screws to fasten the plate since some of the holders allow the plate to rattle in the wind.
    4) It is now a wonderfully quiet car (it was good as delivered but these fine tunings have further pleased my sound sensitive ears). There remains one intermittent very low frequency "moaning" that is not speed sensitive or rpm sensitive which has thusfar eluded my search. I note that there are many shields on the underside of the engine and the chassis but since I do not have a lift I haven't been able to properly scrutinize them as a possible source. I do not have AWD. It sounds like a tire noise (in frequency) but is not. It does not seem sensitive to road surface type. It has me baffled (no pun intended).

    A great car. I also love that you can turn off all the inside dash and door lights while night driving. Dark and quiet--that's my preference.

    If there are any other noise knuckleheads like me who have discovered minor noise sources please share in this forum.
  • I've got the 6 and am hearing the same noise. Dealer couldn't find the root cause because it only happens when the engine starts up from below 35 or so. I bought the car in April, but didn't start hearing the gurgling sounds until late November. Still no TSB :( No leaks seen.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    I purchased a 2010 Mercury Milan in early January of this year. I am generally satisfied with this car except with the transmission.

    When it is cold, it shifts harshly for the first few miles and then settles down. I have made a comment to the dealer and they have told me it is due to the fact that the trans fluid is a non-synthetic. That kind of makes sense.

    At 15K miles, I am going to change over to a straight synthetic trans fluid from Amsoil that meets the specs.
  • rav4manrav4man Posts: 21
    2007 Merc Milan Premier. Perfect car no noise
  • rav4manrav4man Posts: 21
    I bought this black beauty certified 42,000 Ford used $13,000 a year ago, the ford lots were full of them coming off 2 year leases. Has the heated tan/chocolate leather heated seats.
    I have noticed many of my male buddies ogling over this thing, they seem to be zeroing in this same car, either Fusion or Milan. cruises smooth on the highway at 28 mpg.
    Best used car out there, fusions and Milans, you can't go wrong.
    Never embassed to pull up to someones house driving American, I would last about 2 days
    staring at a Hyundi or Kia sign stuck on the steering wheel but that is just me.
  • podpod Posts: 176
    My 2010 Milan has the 17" wheel package with the painted hubcap covers. I had assumed that they were alloys or aluminum since the base model comes with 16" aluminum wheels but if I put a magnet on the inner rim (behind the plastic cover) it sticks. It wouldn't make sense to cover an alloy wheel with a plastic cover. Does this confirm my suspicion that they are steel wheels? What are the advantages of alloy over steel with respect to unsprung weight affecting handling or road noise?
    akirby, I know you are out there and know the answer. Thanks.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 7,665
    The order guide says the 7 spoke wheel is aluminum but the 5 spoke doesn't say either way so I assume it's steel.
  • podpod Posts: 176
    Thank you akirby. On reading I was surprised to find that for many OEM rims the aluminum rims are not significantly lighter than the steel. Some are as many as 5 pounds lighter but most are only a few tenths of a pound lighter. Apparently the explanations include: (1) the steel rims have stock removed (as large oval holes, etc.) in places which do not compromise their strength, and (2) the aluminum rims are not always 100% aluminum and donot have relief holes as part of their structure. I cannot locate the weight of the Fusion rims but would be interested if anyonwe has that arcane data. Since the steel rims are less likely to deform with a curb encounter (and lose the bead), in the end the steel may be preferable. I presume the Ford engineers made the decision that the steel 17" rims did not significantly compromise handling (via the unsprung weight load, etc.). I trust Ford engineers to be smarter than I am. I do intend to obtain a set of alloy rims with Continental 205/60/16 extreme winter tires (on CL for $250 total with only 6000 miles on them) as my winter option here in New England. Can't beat that price and who knows when big snow will visit the area between December and March. The OEM steel rims and the alloys are high offset 5 lug x 114.3 mm so the fit should be excellent. Beyond these specifications I don't think there are any other fitment considerations but would welcome an education if that is not the case.
  • podpod Posts: 176
    For any others who want to know:

    replacement rims for 2010 Milan

    hub bore diameter=67.1mm

    A different offset will affect how far the outer surface of the wheel/tire comination stands out further than or is further in than the OEM rims. The OEM have a 44mm offset.

    A center hub bore of 67.1mm will fit snugly (the size of the OEMs); larger bores will fit with centering rings; smaller bore hubs will not fit unless widened on a lathe which sounds like quite a nuisance and expense.
  • podpod Posts: 176
    I acquired a set of aluminum 16" rims with good snow tires (205/60/16) mounted on them and intend to use them this winter. How will the lack of the TPM sensor affect the dashboard display? Will the TPM logo light continuously? I do not intend to retrofit compatible TPM sensors to the snowtires unless that is necessary. I can ignore the lit logo but will the computer control system have an issue with this? Does the TPM system interact with the engine controls in any way to limit speed if it senses a low pressure situation? Will a TPM signal that is ignored eventually be recorded as a warranty violation with respect to maintenance, etc.
  • My temp guage goes to HOT when i am traveling in long hilly regions while going up hill,but back to normal going down hill. it is a 2008 Mercury Milan with only 29,000 miles,and this is 4th time i have had it back in to garage. They replaced thermostate once then replaced Temp. sensor,but did it again . Back in garage now and have had it for 9 days now & have not come up with a reason. Have been trying to find out about the Lemon Law for it here in Ohio. Thanks for any help.
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