Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

178101213119

Comments

  • while driving or in park, i would push the 4hi button and nothing happens, when it is in neutral and im stopped the lights go off but it wont engage to 4hi it just stays in 2hi. but if i try 4lo in neutral it does engage, weird i know.
  • Thanks, I did go back to the 87. Generally I fill up at the same station each week. The Blazer is brand new w/5000 miles on it. Must be the little quirk for this vehicle, I cannot seem to find a link to the problem no matter what I do. If you hear of anything or have any other suggestions let me know & thanks again.
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    continuation of #97 & #109 re: 97 jimmy
    I got word from a friend that GM had issued "Campaign Bulletin" #01048 regarding '96-'97 upper ball joints separating with no warning. It was for Jimmy/Blazer/Bravada registered in 21 states, all of them northern US so I'm guessing salt related? Anyway, I go to my dealer to tell him that it already happened to me 2 mo. ago and he looks up my VIN and says I'm not included. A '97 Jimmy bought new in the fall of '96 and it's not included???!!! I called the 800 GM customer service number from my manual and we'll see what happens. In the meantime folks, please have your trucks checked out. At 25 mph the inside of my wheel was cut through enough in one block for the tire to start losing air through the wheel itself. At highway speeds do you think you could get off the road in one block?
    ¿spoom
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    oh yea, forgot to mention that my ABS light came on 3 days ago. Trouble code scan says " front left wheel speed sensor". If I do get any reimbursement from the ball joint falling apart I can spend it on the braking system. In the meantime I had to unplug the wheel sensor so it kils the ABS during the start up system check instead of having limited braking after each ign off/on sequence. I have never had a vehicle experience like this, even with my old beater cars as a kid.
    ¿spoom
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    GM says "too bad" my truck isn't covered under the recall 'cause it was made in a different plant with ball joints from different supplier. Guess nobody told the ball joints. ABS was "just" the wheel speed sensor. I couldn't get one from an aftermarket place so I had to give the dealer $55 for one. At least it was simple to put in. Looks like I'll ignore the wiper problem and gas guage 'til I hit the lottery :)
    ¿spoom
  • qdiscqdisc Posts: 29
    Latest problem with my 96 Blazer: the AC. It won't stay on! When I turn it on, it will engage for 1-2 seconds, I can hear it and feel the engine rev higher, then it disengages for 4-5 seconds and repeats, over and over and over. Anyone with any advice on what this might be, how much it might cost me? My wife is truly ready to kill me as she wanted me to get rid of it 6 months ago when it had other problems, but I naively held on to it.

    Thx in advance

    Q
  • Q

    Sounds like the system is low on freon. Had the same problem with my 97 S10. Took it to an independent garage. He checked for leaks (none) and recharged the system. Cost was about $70. Been working great for 10 months now....

    Dave
  • qdiscqdisc Posts: 29
    Cool. Makes me feel better that that may be all it is.

    thx Dave

    Q
  • I had the same problem w/99 Jimmy - annoying squeak going over speed bumps etc. Service write immediately knew it was the rubber cushions on the springs - problem totally resolved - 28000 on warranty - it was $20 parts and 150+ labor inc. alignment. seems to be a regular/known problem.
  • i have a 94 jimmy with electronic transfer case.when i start my vehicle both indicator lights come on;as it's supposed to.when u push switch to 4hi,nothing happens.if you put the transmission into neutral ,push switch into 4wheel, the hi/low indicators just blink.
  • We have a 1991 Blazer S10. We bought it off-lease with 24000 miles on it. We now have 138000 on it and it is still going strong. Never had to make any major repairs expcept for a couple of heater cores. I love it and will not part with it until it finally goes to Blazer heaven. On the flip side, I have been looking for a Blazer for my son to go away to college with. I was looking at 95's.
    When talking to my GMC dealership( who does my repairs ) I was told to stay clear of that year Blazer and Jimmy because there were way too many problems with them since they were the first year of the new style.
  • g159g159 Posts: 23
    Hey, I am thinking of buying a AWD Blazer, Jimmy or Bravada from 95-97. It was probably a rare option, except as standard on the Bravada. Any problems with it. I hate relying on electronic sensors to shift into 4wd as they always break. I don't need low range. I might consider the 98 and newer 4wd, but worry about the reliabilty of the sensors. Any thoughts on these years? Any other problems to worry about? Thanks.
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    I would bet AWD is more reliable than the hi/lo setup. I have been reading these post and many people have had the encoder on the transfer case or the front axle actuator go bad. Neither are used on the AWD, it has many less parts because the front diff is always turning.
  • I have a 2001 Jimmy, I had a 98 Jimmy that I miss it was perfect compared to this new one
    I have the blinking headlights and 4WD-Hi-Low problem as well they don’t bother me as much as the pulling problem that may kill my family or me or maybe someone else.
    This vehicle has been in the shop 7 times in less than 6 months for just this pulling problem.
    It has been aligned 3 times by two different shops. The tires have been rotated 4 times.
    The brakes have been replaced. It appears that something else is wrong. Any ideas?
    The independent shop did make it drive straighter than the dealer. But still pulls right when braking.
    The dealer alignment seems to try to hide the problem by shifting the alignment to the left. The problem with this fix is it abnormally wears the tires. And when slippery the ABS kicks in and the front of he truck slides left as the back starts to slide to the right. I fear that when it gets icier that the truck will spin. I am surprised the ABS allows this. The pull to the right is freakish and they can not find the problem. The way the dealer has it set now is unsafe for winter. When driving you cannot take your eyes off the road for a second as you have to constantly correct the wheel. You have to rock the steering wheel back and forth. I feel like I am driving a 10yr old Ford. I have seen this problem here in GMC Jimmy Front End Repair. I have also done extensive research and found others. If GMC knows what the problem is they are keeping it a secret. As much as I like the ride and my last Jimmy, this problem has turned me off to GMC. They have not fixed it, and under the law they will now buy it back. I am upset that they will not do what is right. They are forcing me to Lemon Law. Hopping that I may go away or maybe have a fatal accident.
    This vehicle may someday be a part of a recall as I have found others with the same problem. I have spent a great deal of time and money on this problem. I have narrowed it down to 3 possible causes, One-- defective rear rotors or calipers, as they have not replaced them yet only the pads. Two-- the brake booster valve assembly as it controls the brake pressure to each wheel. Third-- a bent frame, miss-aligned suspension parts as the right rear leaf spring appears to have a older replacement part and it does not match the one on the left side. GMC would rather hide this problem, or put me through hell instead of fix it.
    I have a message for GMC Bone-appetite. Sorry that you could not stand behind your vehicle.
    Anyone that may know what this problem is, I would be appreciate the fix. I still have to drive it till the lemon law will feed it back to GMC. This could take the rest of the winter. I am going to take it back to the independent shop as they can make it drive straighter than the dealer hide the problem job. I do have extensive documentation and research on this vehicle and problem if you need it for your lawsuit.
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    Could it be that the vehicle is not sitting on its springs evenly? Some past post talked to the front torsion bars needing adjustment to get the the front tires evenly loaded. This could manifest itself in some of the symptoms you describe.
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    2000 Jimmy, 15000 miles: wouldn't go into 4hi the other day. Could get 4lo. Got it into the dealer, one hour later it was fixed. Bad encoder.

    Someone say this is a $700 item?

    Yes I see the same problem in posts 270, 272 and 281
  • Thank you heng , this fix is along the line of my Third solution a bent frame, miss-aligned suspension parts
    And it may be the cause of this abnormality and it may also be a combination of suspension and brakes.
    The reason being the problem gets worse the longer you drive it. It seems to pull more as the brakes get hotter but the pull is always there. I will try to fix it even though it is in the Lemon law process. I do love everything else about the truck. The condition the truck is in now is unsafe to drive in bad weather. The Lemon Law process can take 40 to 60 days and with Christmas almost here it may take a bit longer. Don’t feel bad about the Bad encoder my encoder when bad the first week that I bought the truck. And the lights have blinked and dimmed from day one. These problems are not safety risks and you will have new car problems with any vehicle. Just a few more with a Jimmy. I don’t mind a few problems if they can be fixed don’t ask me to compromise on safety so GMC can do the cheapest possible thing and ask me to live with the problem. I am considering buying foreign for two reasons One- unfortunately they have a more dependable product. Two- The foreign car companies stand behind their product. After reading many Technical Service Bulletins from GMC it appears to have a corporate mentality of do as little as possible and make the customer live with it. That type of corporate mentality may have short term profits but in the long run it will drive away customers. This why corporate America is losing profits to the foreign car companies. I don’t want to buy foreign but this has cost me so much time and money that it is a matter of economics.
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    Has anyone had problems with the driver's side front door that made creaking noises going over bumps? It is driving me crazy. I have removed the door panel 2 times and found no problems. I think it maybe the doorframe, but not sure. It looks like the frame is glued, not welded, when I peeled back the rubber window seal. Very cheap construction. I have used 3 cans of expanding foam to quite the cargo area.
  • I have had that problem with the creaking noises going over bumps
    I found it to be the hood. The noise sounded like the door, but I found it by pounding on the bumper and listening around the door. After adjusting the hood the creaking noises were gone.
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    my 2000 Jimmy makes a tapping sound in the drivers door. Of course when I had it at the dealer for the encoder, I went for a drive with the service tech and *@%&# it wouldn't make a sound. Of course the next day it was back.
  • Does anybody know how to program the door locks on a 1999 lt Blazer?
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    I thought it was in the front transfer case but that wasn't touched after the encoder was replaced.
  • I have a 2000 4WD LS Blazer w/20K mi. When the vehicle idles there is a terrible rumble sould. The sound is a low frequency sound. It seems to get worse (louder) when the AC is on. It is only present when the vehicle idles. It does not matter if the vehicle is idling in park, drive, or neutral. Likewise, 2wd or 4wd does not affect the sound. The vehicle idles at 600 to 650 rpm depending if the AC compressor is on or off. At these engine speeds the sound is real bad. With the vehicle at a complete stop, in park or drive, if I slowly press the gas pedal and increase the engine speed to 700 rpm the sound goes away. When the vehicle is in motion the engine is completely smooth. Has any one else experienced this?
  • I have delay wipers on my 2000 4WD LS Blazer (20K mi). There are five delay settings. Shortly after I got the vehicle on the first two settings (the longest of the delay settings) would work. Settings 3 through 5 would make a couple of passes then delay then make three passes then delay then make a pass then delay then pass continuously... you get the idea. There was no true delay action. The dealer has replaced the "pulse modulator", twice! Now only settings 1 through 3 work. Setting 5 (The shortest delay) makes continuous passes with no delay. The dealer said that's the way setting 5 is supposed to be. He said he had another Blazer on the lot that he checked and it did the same thing. Yea right, that one was probably defective too! Currently setting 4 works 80% of the time and of course always works at the dealership. Anyone have any idea what's going on? I am sure most of the hardware (control yoke, electronics, "pulse modulator", etc) is the same as other Chevy vehicles. Why am I having so much trouble with the wipers in a Blazer?
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    so where is the encoder located?
    It is located on the transfer case. There is only one transfer case and is on the back of the transmission, about the middle of the truck.

    Rumble Sound At Idle
    Have no idea here. Please tell us when you find out what was making the noise.

    Delay Wiper Problem
    Setting 5 does have a very short delay, it is almost undetectable. Sounds like the switch in stalk or a connection problem for setting 4 not to work all the time.

    By the way, I found out why my driver's door would make a creaking noise over bumps. It was the door weather stripping. I cleaned the weather strip on the top of the door frame with a cleaner and now it is quite.
  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    Got a new Blazer with the 4.3. Idle speed is right at 550 rpm, lights flicker somewhat at night, engine doesn't run real smooth at that speed. Is this the correct speed? Could be a trick to get better mileage, lower emissions maybe, but I'm not impressed with this low rpm. Any comments appreciated.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    Can you adjust the idle to something just a little higher?

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    my silverado with the 5.3 will idle at 500 rpm after the engine warms up.

    When do the lights flicker? For no reason at all?

    I know when you roll down the windows or unlock the doors the lights should dim slightly

    Ryan
  • Makes an awful grinding noise when engaging the fly wheel. Also it is "eating" the first 1/8 of inch of the teeth on the flywheel. Rest of teeth all the way around ok, just missing the first 1/8. Took started off and had benched tested, ie, just applies power and it functioned OK. AM I missing something here? COuld the started still be bad even if it spins on the starter tested bence? ANy other ideas?
  • I own a 97 Jimmy, this is by far the most unreliable, worst built vehicle I have ever owned. I have had the electronic t-case problems, wiper problems, u-joint gave out at 60,000miles, rusty trans. dip-stick. My family and I have been stranded in the mountains twice. The thing that makes me the maddest is that I traded a Pathfinder in on this pile of junk! Never again GM-- as far as im concerned GM shouldnt even be in the car making business!
Sign In or Register to comment.