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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mrrydiamrrydia Posts: 2
    repairdog, I will definitely use your response to seem more knowledgeable at the dealer.. thanks very much.

    Your reply reminded me that I did have my heater core replaced about 7 or 8 months ago (after steam started coming through my air vents). It was after the heater core was replaced that I started hearing gurgling behind the dash and was told that it was normal, so I never did anything about it. The heater core being replaced didn't seem to have any affect on my consistently leaking coolant.

    What I am still not sure of, is whether this on-going coolant problem had anything to do with my engine throwing a rod, and the oil level apparently being low. Is it normal for the oil level to be so low and sludgy after 4k miles since getting it changed? I am very worried that they will say it is my fault for not keeping up with maintenance, but I have been dilligent about it (despite being 1k past due this time). Or is it my fault? repairdog or anyone?
  • zaayzaay Posts: 6
    I have a 97 Blazer 4 door with 4x4 and my gas gage jumps, it is not reliable, my tank my be empty and it will read half, full, or quarter tank. It just jumps back and forth. I was told that it could be a fuse or that a circuit board needs to be replaced but I'm not sure. Do anybody have any knowledge about this situation?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Was the oil just low or sludgy (oil and water in a milky mix) cause these are two different things. If the oil was lower than showing on the dipstick but not mixed with water that could be your fault because I believe that GM still states about 600 miles per quart use is within their specs so at 4.5 qts when full oer their spec you where in the wrong - actually more realistic for a 99 would be burning about a qt per 2000 miles so you would still have been down 2 qts - only a guess from me on the last. All Blazers have remote oil cooler lines running to the radiator and all leak at the crimped pressure fittings and if one of them started leaking fast it could dump all your oil in a short time also - not their fault then either. Look under the Blazer for lots of oil covering the underside for this.

    If it was a milky mix of Dex cool and oil that would throw a rod for sure as well as trash all engine internal bearings. That would be the contestable area if the dealer checked and never found where the coolant was going when you took it in.

    Bottom line is you have to known specifically which condition occurred in the engine. Oh, that gurgling was definately not normal and the new heater core should have fixed that but if the coolant was still leaking then a low level would get air in the core and cause it and also may have overheated the engine, again the dealer should have found this if asked.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Common problem and if the fuse or pump relay the engine would be stalling or not start normally. The pump and level sending unit are 1 piece and a search will shown you all the people that have had problems. The sender has contacts that slide with the level all internal to the tank. You can check the connectors at the top of the tank for corrosion and hope its there but if you are near 100k its time for a new unit or set your trip OD and get used to it. About $500 for the pump and install at most shops.
  • wavef0rmwavef0rm Posts: 1
    2000 Chevy S10 Blazer LS:
    Just last night my steering started to bind at every turn. If it's a slight turn the binding is almost not noticeable. In a sharp turn (pulling in to a parking space) the truck almost stops. It feels almost like the tires are hitting the inside of the wheel well, but there are no rub marks in the wells or wear on the tire. I assume it's a problem with the suspension binding somewhere. Any idea where I should begin looking?
  • zaayzaay Posts: 6
    Can't that part be pulled from another vechicle instead of paying that?
  • zaayzaay Posts: 6
    Can that part be pulled from another car?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    If 4wd sounds like you hit the 4Hi or Auto4Hi switch.
    Otherwise could be ball joints or steering linkage based on mileage and how often it was greased. Hubs usually grate or grind. If 4wd cold be CV axles.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Used pumps will probably do the same thing very soon. Its a pain dropping the gas tank at home without lifting the vehicle up, gas in tank, straps to unbolt, several gas lines and filler to disconnect so - Yes you can but I would not spend that much time and effort on a used one. There are aftermarket pumps/sending units but seen lots of reports on wrong gaskets with them so if you get a cheaper on closely match them up.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 869
    Check with the dealer, a lot of the new vehicles the sender is serviced separately, even GM does not want to replace a whole module on warranty just for a sender. The Malibu, the 2000 Cavalier and others.
  • zaayzaay Posts: 6
    Are the chances of me finding a good pump against me? If not, do I need to look for a pump from just blazer, jimmy, and bravado, or do others carry the type?
  • wahlwahl Posts: 1
    The Red BRAKE light on my dash came on today. What does it mean?
  • il203il203 Posts: 3
    Two problems: 1) I have a 2000 Jimmy that for the past year has had a gas gage that jumps around. Particulary once down to 1/2 a tank. (good thing the trip odometer still works!) Most recently, the car truck periodically will not start. Turns over though. The mechanic checked the fuel pump pressure and found it to be low. Otherwise, he can find nothing else wrong. He is hesitant to replace the pump due to the cost without knowing it is the problem for sure. I have heard this problem could be everything from a bad fuel pump to bad battery to frame rail cable. Any advice on the best way to find the problem?
    2) Driver side power window periodically will not work. Could this be an electrical problem or just a bad motor?

    thx.
  • eddie24eddie24 Posts: 2
    my 1997 s10 blazer is 4wd and has 115,000 miles on it. the problem i am having is a noise from the front right wheel that sounds like an airplane landing when you slow down. if i put it in 4wheel high the noise stops. i take it out of 4 wheel drive and it will start again after a while. any idea what is causing this? thanks
  • I am replacing the intake gasket on my 97 Blazer (4.3 Vortec V6). Does the distributor connect with the intake manifold on this engine? Just wondering before I dive in if I have to take the distributor off to get to the intake gasket. Thank you.
  • blaze4x4blaze4x4 Posts: 29
    If the Dex cool turns to sludge, why can't you completely flush system and replace with the glycol based coolant?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Assuming not the yellow ABS light: Probably that your emergency brake pedal is not releasing all the way - see if after you pull the handle that the pedal is all the way up. Has a spring under there that may be catching or there is a switch that the pedal arm contacts to turn the light out.

    Do you have brake lights - all of them? If not there is another switch on the brake pedal that activates them when the pedal is pushed.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    As you found in searches you know what to check.
    When the Blazer does NOT start, do you hear the fuel pump spin up when you try (if not sure turn key to RUN position before START and listen - can't miss that hum. A low pressure could be a clogged fuel filter so try that first. Then if the pressure is low (how low?) the start condition needs over 60 psi for the richer start mode so after the first try does it start the 2nd try? Check the pump relay under hood drivers side case.

    Yes on the window - could be a motor or electrical. First push the up/down switch several times and see if dirty contacts. Then open/close door a few times to get a good ground on the pins/bushings. Then, pull the door panel (remove 2 bolts under the arm rest handle and 1 screw on opener plastic behind handle, then pull out - plastic push pins - then lift off the window lip). The whole switch panel on the door just snaps out (push to rear and leift out) and vcan be passed thru the panel as you remove it and set aside. Check that the door switch works with a volt meter at the motor plug in, if switch good tap the motor and see if it works, if not take a jumper wire from a good frame ground (bare metal) to the window motor mounting metal and see if it works (door pins/bushings may be rusted and not good ground). Otherwise put a new motor in.
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    So, are the brake rotors and pads good up front, i.e. is this brake related. If not hubs should grind or make noise always when going bad and the right will be noisier when turning left (pressure all goes on right). Did you look at the CV axle boots - ripped and grease all over then replace. Also the pass side CV axle has a coupler that locks the CV axle to the front diff when you push 4Hi/Lo - check the gear oil in the front diff by unscrewing the bolt/plug on upper side and level should be up to bottom of hole - easy way most lube places will suck out and change it. Hope one of these easy things. Oh, are you sure its not the fan clutch acting up -locking the fan on full (thats a wind noise like a jet)?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Yes, there is 1 bolt/holddown bracket that must be removed and then the dist pulls out (after cap removed - careful on that cap and the torx screws so you don't break them) and remember to mark or take a pic so you know where to line the rotor up on reinstall - have to be right on or if off 1 tooth it will not start.
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