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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,539
    I'm wondering if you could hook up vacuum temporarily to that actuator to see what happens. You could hook up a vacuum line to a known vacuum source and use an aquarium valve to turn it on and off in the passenger compartment. A bit of a hassle but it would tell you the problem area.

    MODERATOR

  • hi you are right it does go in the back of the motor on the left as you look at the motor.get up on the motor and you will see it.also get someone to engage the 4x4 while you put your hand under the battery tray and see if the pump does work you will feel it moving if it does the transfercase motor is not working i had to change mine
  • get them made at a hydraulic shop like i did they will never burst again it cost me about 250 dollars but its worth it never had a problem again.
  • I have a 79 K5 with a 9 in lift with 37 in tires. I get less then 8 miles to the gallon and a friend of mine has the same exact truck and lift and he gets 15 miles to the gallon. What is my problem? I have a new throttle body,carburator, and air filter. Just changed all the fluids but nothing seems to help it.
  • You might want to get your gears checked out. The only thing i can think of is since you put a lift and a little bigger tires it can slowly wear the gears down so you might want to get the gears checked out see if the pumpkin has any metal shavings from the ring and pinon. As for the heat check the connection between the wire and the fan. Mine use to do that until i got a new wire. And if its not that then its the fan the reason it work when your driving is cause the fan moves when you drive when you don't drive it stays still. Does it stop working when your at a light or stopped.
  • I hooked up a vacuum source to the actuator under the battery and when I put it in 4wd the front wheels engaged like they should. That tells me that the transfer case and switching are o.k. I have traced the vacuum hoses but cannot see any breaks or cracks. Do you know where the original source for the vacuum connects? The only other part that I see that has a vacuum hose connected to it (other than the transfer case switch with 3 vacuum hoses and the actuator under the battery) is a switch mounted on the passenger's side fender beside the battery. This same switch also has an electrical connector to it (vacuum hose at one end, electrical connector at the other). Would you know what know what this switch is used for? Thanks.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    I am posting this for anyone who wants to add RKE to a late model Blazer/Jimmy.

    If your glove box RPO label does not show AU0 on the codes, you do not have remote keyless entry from the factory.

    Now, the good news.

    Used RKE receivers are available (cheap) online. I got mine on eBay from s10warehouse for $15 including shipping. It installs on the backside of the panel above the parking brake pedal, and the wiring harness is already there. Takes about 5 minutes to install.

    Now for the fun part. You MUST have a GM dealer enable the module. My dealer had never done this before, so I figured it would be good to share the knowlege.

    The technician will need to download the BCM (body control module) software into a TechII programmer and transfer the information to the shop computer. Then, you scroll down through the list of details till you get to "Equipped with RKE" or something like that. It will show "NO". The tech just toggled this to "YES", saved the data back into the Tech II, and reloaded the program into the vehicle BCM.

    That's it, now the vehicle knows the module is there. I wanted to be as specific as I could on this because dealers generally have never heard of this procedure. They regularly re-program key fobs, or add key fobs, but telling a car that was built without RKE that it now has it, is just not something they often do, if ever.

    FOB programming varies somewhat from model to model, but if you check http://www.programyourremote.com/
    you will probably find what you need. There is a company advertising on their website called ChipKeys.com. I bought my key fobs from them, the prices were the cheapest I found, and delivery was quick, and new product.

    I don't work for any of the companies mentioned here, nor do I know anybody at the companies. But I had really good support and delivery and thought I would share the experience.

    Jim
  • I have a 96 LS... 182K miles... I have changed the spark plugs twice... I had no trouble changing this plug... I used a box end wrench. I will take a pic and post sometime soon.

    TJ
  • does anyone know where the heater core is located on a 96 jimmy and how to access it. i have half the dash apart and starting under the hood? help
    \
  • sir do you know anything about the heater core? mine is leaking into the passanger side floor boards
  • nmartnmart Posts: 3
    :sick:

    I have a 1989 S10blazer The 4.2 V6 fi 175,456 mileas. Went for emissions test and Air inj sys, egr,pcv,fuel inlet restrictor, Cat Coverter,Evap control sys, gas cap integrity all passed, tail pipe #'s
    CO%
    Idle limit 1.20 reading 7.22 fail
    2500 rpm 1.20 reading 6.86 fail
    HC ppm
    Idle 220 ...382. fail
    2500 rpm 220... 267 fail
    :sick:
    Seems there is to much emisions coming out of tail pipe all other things are ok. I do smell fuel when it starts though, and iot runs rough sometimes. I always kept up on tunups. also seems to eat more gas.. Need to know what parts would effect emissions that would cause high CO%. need to know something before having it fixed. thanks

    thanks for any help/
  • Yeah my brother has that problem every, i don't know how it happens but it just developes a small hole over time, the heater core its self is not alot but the labor is. You have to take the entire dash off.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Had a similar problem on a 6.0L. Turned out to be a bad fuel regulator that was "leaking" for want of a better word.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    2002 Blazer Xtreme, 61k miles.

    I bought this little gem a few weeks ago and have been going through the myriad of mechanical and electrical eccentric behavior. Knocked out the last one this morning. In the transmission thread I wrote about the off the wall behavior of the transmission, shifting into neutral at high RPM. Well, the mechanicals all checked out great, drained and refilled with a fresh filter, and had the software purged and reloaded with the latest updates from GM. Shifts great, no issues, until ...

    5000RPM, just before the shift, engine has a major misfire and shuts down fuel momentarily. No codes set. Fuel pressure good, installed new cap and rotor, repositioned the coil wire to be sure it wasn't arcing. No dice, same symptom. I read where if a problem could be repeated several times in a short period of time, a code would be set. So, as much as it pained me to do it, the third time set a CEL, crankshaft position sensor. The sensor checked out okay statically, but these things are Hall Effect sensors. If the output is weak, the faster the pulses come through the greater the chance of the sensor missing it. Which is exactly what was happening. And when the CPS doesn't see pulses, the fuel and ignition shut down. After all, the CPS says the engine is not turning.

    So the sum is this; if you have an engine that runs fine under normal conditions, but cuts out and falls on its face at high RPM, look closely at the CPS. It has been revised by AC Delco, and the new part number is 12596851. Replacing the CPS not only corrected the high RPM misfire, but the occasional 'hiccup' in normal driving. This symptom is not limited to the 4.3L, but can occur in any engine using the CPS for feedback to the engine control system.

    Hope this helps somebody.

    Jim
  • Hi, this is my first post so please let me know if I am leaving something out. I have a 98 Jimmy xls 2wd 4dr 150,000mi--I hear a whistling/screeching noise sometimes when I start it up, when driving hear an airplane like sound occasionally that's the best I can describe it as. It sounds like rumbling air. Also when driving for a while check engine light comes on and the car jerks between 1st and 2nd gear. Have been told the airplane sound might be the air intake meter or something like that. Have no clue what the whistling sound or the jerking is. Please help!
  • HI, my name is TJ, I have a 96 LS, 182K miles. Check the ATF (automatic transmission fluid)... What color is it? Does it smell burnt? If so... when was the last time you had a transmission flush maintenance? This is not the same as dropping the pan and changing the filter. This is a good place to start...

    Take care, TJ
  • Hi... I have not had to deal with the heater core... If you are not going to replace the core soon... I would remove the hoses from the core on the firewall... engine compartment side... and run a short bypass hose from the block to the water pump... this will stop the leaking... a major priority at this time.

    Take care, TJ
  • I have read some posts about the five year/150K orange coolant from the factory... used in these vehicles... most said to drain it and replace with the green stuff. Are there any docs available on the damage this coolant causes? Or... what experiences has anyone had with the orange?

    Thank you in advance, TJ
  • Hi... I own a 96 LS... 182K miles. I am curious how yours has performed for you?

    Take care, TJ
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Do not mix unless you KNOW all the orange is out of the system. You can still use the orange Dexcool, just don't run it beyond 3yrs/50K miles. The stuff is okay, just not as good at GM wanted us to believe.
  • Subject: Door Hinge Pin/Bushing replacement.

    HI, I have a 96 LS... 182K miles... a note on the door hinge pins/bushings... I just replaced mine... really needed done at 100K... but the door striker just now started hitting wrong. The bushings and hinge pins are the same on my 81 Grand Prix... same bushings with brass/bronze... they use the softer metal so that the hinge pin does not wear... just the bushings. I fairly good system... but what really puts pressure on the upper pin is the door spring. The spring has to be removed to change the pins and bushings... so just leave it out. You can get the door spring removal tool at NAPA for around $21.00. I replaced both upper and lower at the same time. I suspended the door with a rope sling... and a small nylon belt type come a long from my garage door opener mounting hardware in the ceiling... yes I have digital pics of doing it. Was about a three hour project... as I had never done this with hinges that were welded to the body and door. I could do the job again in two hours if I had to.

    Do you still own your Jimmy?

    Take care, TJ
  • Thank you for the prompt reply and intel... I replaced the radiator about two years ago... developed a small crack (barely visible) very small leak... under the inlet neck. Replaces with the orange and I have topped off the overflow bottle with the Prestone Univeral mix with any color coolant stuff... I had a small leak on the water pump... turned out to be a loose hose clamp... I repalces all the rubber hoses at the 100K mark.

    Take care, TJ
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Look at where the water dumps from the door rain channel and you will get a good idea of what is happening to the bushings. Re-grease those little suckers every oil change and they will last a lot longer. All GM had to do was slightly tweak the door design to get the runoff away from the hinge pin and things would have worked out much nicer.
  • how do you take off passenger front seat cover to replace recliner part? It's for a 2000 Jimmy 4wd.
  • i have a 1986 k5 blazer, and what i want to do is swap the carburated 305 with a fuel injected 327 vortec, but i cannot find an aftermarket computer for it, i do know they make them. can anybody tell me where i could find one maybe has a different solution.

    thanks
  • i have an 1986 k5 blazer and i have an problem with the a/c, no matter what position i put the selector switch the compressor will come on exept in the off position. does anybody has any sugestions?
  • Has anyone dealt with this maintenance? I have a 96 LS with 182K miles. I saw one in the bone yard... T/C cover off... no chain... gear drive. Was this OEM... or aftermarket?

    Thank you... TJ
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Looked up the parts for a 4.3, and sure enough, does not show a chain, just helical cut gears, so it would appear that these are gear only designs.
  • Outstanding... thank you for the quick intel... went to AutoZone... they showed me timing gear and chain set. I saw the one in the yard about four years ago... just made a mental note on it.

    I had two 3.8 Buick engines to deal with at one time... and if you failed to change out the factory nylon cam gear... by the 80K mark... it was too late.

    Thank you again.. one less thing to be concerned with... thank you GM too.

    Take Care... TJ
  • That would explain the corrosion on the pins when I first purchased it with 70K miles. Before I replaced the pins and bushings about three months ago... I soaked the pins in MP (Metal Protector) an Amsoil product that I have used since 1978. Then I used Amsoil Synthetic Grease on the bushings and pins before I put them together. Door feels like new again. The door spring puts too much pressure on the pin and bushings... in my opinion. Had they put the spring on the bottom hinge... it would have been a better design. Interestingly enough... I was at the Florida State Fair on Sunday... and they had a Hybrid Chevy Tahoe on display. Want to guess where the door spring was located? That's right... the bottom hinge... a much better design... and the hinges are bolted on... not welded.

    Take Care,.. TJ

    Take Care... TJ
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