Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

1102103105107108119

Comments

  • a90myersa90myers Posts: 9
    My blazer is in the shop. They thought the tapping noise was the flywheel. Dropped the tranny, the flywheel is good. Now they are telling me the rear bearring is bad in the engine. Should I have the rocker replaced just to rule that out or get another engine???
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    The labor replacing the rear main bearing is nearly the same as replacing the engine. Get an estimate from the shop that told you the rear main bearing is bad. I would guess that it would cost from $1200 to $1800 to recondition the crank and install new rod and main bearings, depending on the other parts that are replaced. .

    An aftermarket rebuilt long block (including rebuilt heads) will cost $1000 to $1100 outright less $200 - $300 credit for your old long block.. That will be about $900 -$1000 net for a rebuilt engine plus $1000 labor cost so expect a total cost of $2000..

    A Mr. Goodwrench V6 4.3L (GM-12361243) engine will cost abouut $2100 plus the $1000 labor cost from an independent automobile shop is $3100-.

    A Mr. Goodwrench engine indstalled at a Chevrolet dealership will cost $1600 labor because a dealership usually charges $100 an hour because they want to discourage non-warranty work. Chevrolet dealership have all the new car warranty work they can handle and new car warranty work takes priority over non-warranty work.
  • I have no brake lights ( all 3 inoperatable) when I press on the brake..
    1.Hazard lights work
    2.turn signals work
    3. all bulbs are good
    4, wiring harness under rear bumper is ok

    is this a possible bad brake switch???? where is it located? and how hard to replace?

    or is it something else???
    any help is much appreceiated!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Probably a bad brake light switch. It is mounted down by the brake pedal arm, cheap part, easy to replace.

    Does your cruise control release when you step on the brake? Be careful, that could get exciting! The release of the cruise comes from the same switch assembly, but may be a different set of contacts in the switch.
  • unt5504unt5504 Posts: 1
    I have a 96 S-10 Blazer and it stalled on the highway so i took to a repair shop they said it was my fuel pump, did not believe them because it had it replaced 3 years ago so i took it home and worked on it replaced the dist cap starter cleaned the fuel injection system and replace the in line fuel filter, and before all this i had a slight knocking noise like the guy had in his s10 but now the engine will not crank at a certain part we tried to turn it over manually with a wrench and it is gets stuck and it really tough to get past that part any suggestions
  • How many miles on your Blazer? Do you smell fuel? Has the fuel regulator valve been replace? Remove all spark plugs and see if the engine cranks freely... Have someone watch from the front to see if any fuel comes out of any cylinder. Pull plentum... watch fuel regulator... it will probably be leaking.

    Hope this helps,

    TJ
  • hi i have a 98 chevy blazer and my transmission makes a howling noise and the floor boards get hot and somtimes it makes a grinding noise as im driving but the transmission still shifts and drives and my rpm gauge also stopped working i need help i dont wanna have to change the trany
  • i have a 98 chevy blazer and the trany makes a howling noise i can feel it on the floor and the floors in the front get hot and somtimes it makes a little grinding noise can some one tell me wahts wrong with it
  • How many miles on the transmission? I had over 160,000 on my when I lost the 3/4 clutch pack (final drive gear)... no noise... just didnt go anywhere when you applied throttle.

    It just may be time for a rebuild... do your homework and find someone good. The dealership would not touch mine because of the milege... go figure. The shop I went to had all the equipment for testing the solenoids, valve body, etc under operating temperatures and conditions... so when they put these components back into the tranny... they knew for sure that they work. Also... they insisted on using synthetic transmission fluid... or no three year warranty... I was using Amsoil anyway... so I had no problem with that.

    I had them do one upgrade to the tranny... 3/4 clutch pack originally has seven clutch plates... they suggeste an upgrade to one that had nine clutch plates... Tranny feel just like original... very pleased with work.

    Hope this helps,
    TJ
  • mwolf9000mwolf9000 Posts: 29
    The water pump on my '96 Jimmy (4.3L V-6) is leaking badly (from the back on the right side). But I'm having difficulty removing the fan clutch so that I can get the fan off first. How does it come off? I can see that it has a coil spring on the end. Is this it?

    Please help.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    2001 Blazer 4X4, 120140 miles, replaced the battery 10/05, new alternator 8/06. Problem is there are no lights (dash, radio, etc.). No horn headlights; absolutely no power at all. My wife jumps me with her car and after about 10 minutes of letting charge it finally turns over. Once the cables come off, it runs but then stalls when I drop it into drive and then back to square one. Absolutley no power to anything. Is it the ignition switch or a bad battery. A little frustrating. PLEASE HELP ME! It is almost paid off and I really don't want another car payment!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :cry:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Find a volt meter and measure across the battery when the engine is running. Anything less than 13.6V and you have a charging problem. If that was a new alternator two years ago, it should be fine. If a rebuilt, all bets are off. I have seen high quality rebuilts last as long as the OEM. I have seen other rebuilts barely make it past one year.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    Ok here's the poop. Found my delapidated volt meter and used my wife's car to jump start my Blazer. Hers of course was right on 14V. My truck started and mine was also 14V - altenator was not the problem. Disconnected and tried to pull out and it stalled. Took the battery to Advance Auto and put it on their analyzer. End result - bad battery. So bought a new one and installed it. Runs like a champ!!!!!! We like simple fixes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :shades:
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    The fan and clutch come off as an assembly, This assembly screws onto the water pump with left-hand threads (reverse of normal) so that is tightens as the engine runs. There is a special open end wrench for this(I foprget the size) but it can be rented at many parts stores. Put it on the nut and whack it with a big hammer, then the whole thing screws off.
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    The heater core replacement isn't hard, just really time consuming, like all day, or maybe 2 days. Chiltons or one of the other repair books have directions. Lots of screws to keep track of.
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    When you do this (or get it done) buy the best heater core you cna get, like the Delco one. The labor to replace a cheap core again will more than offset the extra cost of the core.

    Also, a mix of orange and green coolant will contribute to this, as well as leaking water pump seals. The seals in the water punp were changed to be compatible with the Dexcool, not so compatible with the green stuff.

    Use the Dexcool ( orange stuff) but be sure to replace it completely no more than every three years.
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    One thing to check is the battery cable connection at the battery. I had a situation where either the bolt in the cable was too long or the hole in the battery was too shallow. Either way , the battery cable wouldn't tighten down correctly. I put a washer under the battery cable bolt, then put the cable on the battery and tightened the connection. No more problems. Another battery wold probably also fix it, but the washer was cheaper.
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    It's supposed to work this way. The purpose is to assist with the defog of the interior of the windshield with dry, de-humidified air that is created by the A/C. Not so important in AZ, but really helpful in the humid southeast.
  • The fan/clutch assembly comes off the water pump together. Do not mess with the spring. It takes a special tool set to loosen and remove this assembly... unless you are very creative with your tools. When you put the assembly back together... do not tighten excessively... just a tweek... and use plenty of anti-sieze on the treads of the pump and the fan/clutch assembly... this way... the next time you need to remove... you only need an adjustable wrench to loosen the nut... the belt should be tight enoutg to hold the water pump from turning.

    Take care
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Two things that can kill a weak battery are extreme cold and extreme heat. I just replaced the battery in my '02. It had shown no problems at all until last week when I turned the key, it started to crank, and then stone dead.

    There are six cells in a 12V battery, approx 2.2V each. When you measure a battery and get 10.4ish volts, two of the cells have shorted. In my case, I measured 5.6 volts, which basically means the guts came apart in the battery.

    Now, boys and girls, here's a neat trick. If you get caught somewhere with no jumpers, turn on the lights and note how bright they are. If very bright, but go out when you turn the key, the battery has a partial short. If the lights are just dim and go dimmer when you turn the key to start, the battery has run down, possibly from a weak or failed alternator.

    But for the big trick, if the battery has been working fine and suddenly did a face plant, find a wrench and loosen the battery anchor. I know everyone here always has the battery anchored down, right? Anyway, once the battery is loose, lift it about an inch or so and drop it. Don't get the goo from the battery on your clothes, unless you really like the grunge look.

    Dropping the battery like this can dislodge the pieces of lead plate that have shorted and give you another start. This is a great trick, and I have used it successfully several times. Now, it doesn't fix the battery, you are still going to shell out for a new one, but it can get you to the parts house to do so.

    Jim
  • 380kmiles380kmiles Posts: 1
    have you considered THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER ?? I HAD THAT PROBLEM..RAN FINE UNTIL THE TRUCK WOULD WARM UP ... then i would have to wait until the car cooled down a bit and it would be ok until another 5 miles or so...replaced the catalytic converter and that took care of the problem...
  • sam1969sam1969 Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Chevy Blazer, it keeps locking itself into 4 Lo. I put it back into 2 HI but today, it locked itself into 4 Lo and wouldn't come out. The Service 4WD light is on and my mechanic kept pushing the buttons on the dash until he got it into 2 Hi then he unplugged the 4X4 pushbutton switch on the dash. Is this a costly item to replace???
  • My 1998 Blazer has problems switching from 2wd to 4wd. When the 2wd light is on I can switch to 4wd sometimes. The 2wd had switched to 4wd by itself when starting the car. When this happens the buttons stop working and the car is stuck in 4wd. The lights are unpredictable, sometimes on sometimes off, they change while I'm driving. I've been told to disconnect the battery, ground the cables, reconnect the battery if I push the buttons and nothing happens. Most of the time this works, but you can emagine the headache this is! I'm looking for a fix that doesn't require several failed attempts at finding the right solution. We all know how expensive and time consuming it is to keep guessing at what the problem is. Anybody had this problem?
  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    2001 Blazer 4X4, 120,630 miles. Problem: refuses to start. New battery, altenator; starter is turning over engine. It sounds like it wants to start however it will not "catch". Where should I check first? Wires, plugs, distributor cap, rotor??? I have changed any of the above in a while (really long while). Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!!!!! I really need to get this thing up and running.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    Now for the strange thing. It sat since Friday morning when this all started. It didn’t start. We took off for the weekend in my wife’s car and came back Sunday. Tried again. No luck. Got up this morning and again it wouldn’t start. Then I got thinking did I hear the fuel pump “whine up” as I call it. Well I tried it and sure enough it was, which to me meant at least the pump was doing something. I did it twice. Then just for grins and giggles, I tried to start it. It fired right up!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Have no idea unless my fuel filter was clogged and I broke something loose. So this weekend I am going to replace the fuel filter and run a fuel treatment/injector cleaner through the system.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    Ok, it has to be the fuel pump. It did start and ran great for three days. Then the same thing. I did get stranded but it was at work so no foul. I finally got it to turn over so the wife and I went back to my office and I drove it home. Now that it is here, I can search for a fuel filter and if I am lucky have it start just one more time so I can drive it to the shop and not have to have it towed there. Any suggestions on where to look and what a good price would be? Thanks.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    NAPA has good products. The NAPA premium 65 lb. output fuel pump is $95 including seals. NAPA fuel pump strainer is $8 and fuel pump wiring harness is $10. All those items should be replaced when the fuel pump is replaced or the new fuel pump will prematurely fail again.
  • I am trying to change the passenger side head light with little success - tried to remove the battery to get to it with no success - can you help resolve my issue ?

    Lights out in missouri
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    I can change a 1991 Blazer headlight blindfolded. They can b e replaced from the front just like all GM headlights have been replaced as far back at 1948. All you need is a wire coathanger with a little hook on the end, a long, thin, flat-blade screwdriver and a little stool to sit on. Reach in with the hooked-end coathanger to pull out the headlight spring and unhook it from the headlight retaining ring, unscrew the two headlight ring attachment screws from the headlight ring , pull out the headlight and unplug it from the wiring harness. . Then reassemble it in reverse. Don't remove or unscrew the headlight aiming screws.

    You probably have the "new and improved" headlight assemblies.. I have never replaced the whole headlight assembly on one of those but the little bulb is the twist in type that twists into the socket hole in the headlight assembly. I assume you are having a problem finding the headlight socket hiole. The headlight bulbs on the other later model cars I have replaced does not require removing the whole headlight assembly. Don't touch the new bulb with your fingers or it will prematurely fail. Those little twist in headlight bulbs burn hotter and the oil from your fingers will cause the glass to fracture.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    What year model? The newer (96 and newer) just use two tabs that are pulled up and release the headlight assembly. Bulb change takes less than 5 minutes.
Sign In or Register to comment.