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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • friend2friend2 Posts: 2
    I recently bought a '96 Jimmy for my son. We have been looking at fuel economy and I thought we should look at the spark plugs to see what kind of shape they are in. This is a 4 x 4 with 87600 miles on it.

    I am embarrassed to say I could not trace down the spark plugs. I need someone to tell me where they are located at on the engine. Also the best way of pulling each of them.

    It is the 4.3L, V6.

    Thank you
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    It's a Chevy engine, and the plugs are under the exhaust manifolds instead of above. Most are easy to get to, except the #3. That's the middle plug on the drivers side. Easiest way to get that one out is to disconnect the steering shaft from the steering gearbox and move the shaft out of the way an inch or so.

    Be sure and put platinum tip plugs back in. They will last a good 75K miles or more. Also be sure to change the rotor and cap. The rotors will cook off twice as fast as the plugs. Easy to change, and should be done every 50K at least.
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    Also, get a good brand cap and rotor, like Delco. The house brand ones don't last very long.
  • friend2friend2 Posts: 2
    Thanks for your input.

    I am looking on how to improve the gas mileage and performance. Are there other things we can do ourselves to the engine?

    Any additives that actually work out there as well?
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    The 3.4L Chevrolet V6 is very limited to performance up-grades. It was about optimum in performance when it left the factory. The exhaust system is very good and the ignition system is excellent. The S10/S15 Blazer/Jimmy fuel injection system can support up to 300 HP without any modification.

    Use a premimum NAPA distributor cap with brass electrodes. The AC Delco distributor cap is equipped with aluminum electrodes which will oxidize and fill the cap with alumium oxide dust which will cause spark scatter, especially with the factory high voltage electronic ignition systems.
  • beneycebeneyce Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 1995 GMC Jimmy. I have replaced the water pump and thermostat due to a percieved overheating problem. I have a snapon mt2500 that I hooked up to the computer. The temperature is running from 185 degrees to about 195 on the scan took. No over heating. It is cooling just as it should. The gauge reads about 250 degrees. Is this a common problem? How can I fix this problem. temp sending unit? or different gauge cluster? Any ideas? Thanks -Ben
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    The sending unit is more likely the culprit. If you have access to an ohm meter, you can check the resistance of the sending unit. It should read around 2.5K to 5K cold, and below 200-300 ohms hot (170 to 200 degrees).
  • deniceddeniced Posts: 1
    Last week while driving my 97 Blazer i noticed the volt gauge dip down to about 12 and the running lights went out. It immediately went back up to 14 but the lights never came back on. When i restart it the lights come back on again. I had the alternator replaced even tho it tested fine. The battery also tested fine. It continued to happen about 3 times on my 20 mile drive to work every day for the last week. This morning i started it and was backing down the driveway and it died. It restarted and i got it back up the drive. It died again. Now when i try to start it i dont hear the fuel pump. Are these problems related?
  • This really sounds like a loose connection. Alternator is 14 volts, battery is 12 volts, so the alternator is going offline when the voltage drops to 12. Could be alternator or battery, or ground. I had a similar situation and it turned out that the hole in the battery for the positive cable bolt was too shallow, so the bolt bottomed out and was not really tight. A washer under the bolt fixed it.
  • Hi

    I am new to the forums and as such don't have much of an idea how it works. I recently bought a 95 GMC Jimmy and have noticed that the truck seems to dart to the left of right when I am driving. There is also quite a bit of play in the steering wheel. I have also noticed that the truck seems to lean to the passenger front side when turn sharp corners. I am wondering if anyone would have a general idea of what could be causing this problem. The truck is in mint condition other than having 314,000 km, but the engine and transmission were re-built at around 170,000 km. I will be taking it into a shop soon, but i don't want to get ripped off, so I though I would ask here first. Thanks, in advance, for your time and help.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Ouch! If a 4WD, probably ball joints. Also should have a close look at the tie rod ends, centerlink, and idler arm. Idler arm, tie rod ends, and center link are easy to change. Ball joints, you need to know what you are doing as the springs are involved and care must be taken to compress them safely during the repair.
  • Does anyone have any info as to why my 4X4 comes and goes as it pleases? The lights on the dash blink or go out completely and the truck runs like garbage and now the service engine soon light comes on. It feels like the brake is on until it gets into second gear (auto trans). If I manually shift gears it's not as bad, though (again...auto trans). I've been searching for related issues for 4X4 problems but can't find any. I'm trying to diagnose this myself so I don't have to pay a mechanic a couple hundred bucks just to look at it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • the anti-theft system is full of bugs. there is only one way to fix it and that's by bypassing the system. however, the only way to do that is by having a remote starter put in. i went through the same thing and replaced the ignition and switch but it still happened. after i put the remote starter in i never had the problem again and that was 2 years ago.
  • Slop in the steering could be a lot of things, as mentioned. Also, if 4WD the axle hubs and wheel bearings may need to be replaced. Thats a lot of miles, and most people don't lube the front end parts very regularly, so a lot of wear is not suprising. I would go to a front end alignment shop first, preferably non-chain, and have them check the alignment, usually $25 or so. Stick around while they do it, and they can show you where the free-play is. Once you know what is needed, then you can get some estimates on repairs. For parts, I've been using Rock Auto, online store, good prices, quick shipping, usually name brand parts. I don't have any vested interest in the store, just good results. Tie rod ends are less than $10, not too tough to do at home, ball joints less than $20 each, much harder to do at home.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    Unfortunately, most repair shops will charge you a diagontic fee and it may be as much as $90. It may be waived if the shop does the work, but then you must trust them to install the better quality parts and not just charge you for the better parts and install junk parts made of Chineseium. Rock Auto is an excellent source of good quality name brand parts and I use them quite often in my restorations. However, but you must intstall the Rock Auto parts yourself. If there is a job above my pay grade, I have a younger gauy I found on Craigs List who will install my parts while i watch. I pay him $40 per hour and I still come out cheaper than taking it to a crooked repair shop. I would estimate that 85% of the auto repair shops are crooks. That is the only way they can make a decent profit.
  • I have a 99 blazer 4x4 that I put in 4 low and the light on the dash just kept blinking, althought the vehicle felt like it was in low I don't believe the front was working. I then put it in 4 high and the light wouldn'tstop flashing also. when I put it back in 2 high all was wll. I tried this a couple of times and had the same result. Whaddaya think? Thanks Lorenzo
  • Your Blazer needs vacuum pressure from the manifold to shift into 4wd. So I'd start by checking the vacuum lines from the manifold.
  • I would change the dimmer/headlight switch. i had no dash lights only my aftermarket radio.
  • The first thing to check is that the front drive axle is engaging. The most common failure is the vacuum that activates it. There is a vacuum line that goes to the shift mechanism passes under the battery on its way to the front axle. Fumes tend to disintegrate this line. Crawl under the front while someone inside switches from 2wd to 4wd and see if the actuator moves. Unplug the vacuum line and see if you feel vacuum. If not,replace the line.

    If this is OK, get the Haynes or Chilton manual (I have both) to see how the shifter motor is attached.
  • I may have a slightly bent front lower control arm that may be causing alignment problems. If so, could this be adjusted to some degree?
  • I think the answer is Maybe. It depends on direction and how "slight" the damage is. The only way to know is to take it to an alignment shop. I would go to a non-chain (individually owned) shop and have them check it.
  • I took my Blazer to a buddy for him to look at and they told me it was the over drive bearing. I have never heard of an over drive bearing They told me that my whole engine had to be replaced and that just didn't sound right to me. Because Overdrive has everything to do with the transmission now if there is such thing as over drive bearing it would be in the gear box or somewhere in the tranny right? and how would I fix it
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Forget the "buddy" and find a reputable garage to look at the vehicle. Might cost you $100 for their diagnostic services, but save you thousands in an unwarranted repair.

    There is no such thing as an "overdrive bearing" in an engine.
  • ok so let me ask u this is there anything along those lines in tranny the blazer won't move so i can't take it to a shop its 4 wheel drive
  • Hi all,
    I had to buy a new remote the other day. But as of yet, havent gotten it to work.I called several Chevy dealers an found out that the one I bought was the only one for my year blazer. So, that is not a problem. IS there a set way to get the camputer to learn the new one,besides using a hand comp plugged in.?
    I did find out that someone changed the remote before and the old one I had was never for the blazer( but they did get it to work)
    The same dumb azz had an aftermarket alarm put into. (but this doesnt work and hasnt since I got it. ( dealer probally unplugged it.)

    So, I hope yall can help me here, because I miss using he remote.

    2000 blazer LS 4x4 :confuse:
  • Hey Folks! I have a 1999 Blazer and am wanting to replace the OEM speakers. I can easily get the front and rear door speakers, however when I'm looking at the crutchfield site, it doesn't show anything for the dash speakers. I belive they are 4x6 but all of the 4x6 speakers they have shows the they don't fit my vehicle. Any reason why? Has anyone replace all 6 of thier speakers and if so what with? I'm also interested in replacing the head unit with maybe a power amp and a sub. I'd be interested in what folks have done. I'm not going to spend a bunch of money, not interested in showing or anything, just a good system.

    Thanks for any help and suggestions.
  • Hey 20blazer00 ,

    I just had to buy a remote last weekend, and have the same problem, I can't get it to program. The only thing I can figure is that the remote I bought changes "codes"each time it's pressed (to keep other remotes from opening my door) it's a security feature of my opener. I think the blazer is not capable of this feature, therefore isn't compatible. Just a guess on my part though. I just go ahead and use the remote clipped to my visor.

    p.s. the last remote I had programmed just fine and I had been using the overhead button for the last 5 years! I lost the remote because I never used it..
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Well, not an "overdrive bearing" per se, but there is a sun gear that will shut things down if it breaks. Did this come on suddenly, or were there earlier symptoms?
  • +This may be too late but just read this post. As I work for a car rental comp. We
    see this all the time. The main 2 reasons this happens is the cable that drives the door is loose, broken, or unattached. 2nd, is the control head itself.
  • yes, there is a procedure to enter programming mode, using just the ignition switch. I used it to reprogram the 2 used remotes I bought off the net, I won't be able to look for it until the weekend. If I find it I'll let you know,
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