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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Boy, I understand the frustration. All I can say is everytime I've had those symptoms (several), it's been the timing chain/gears.

    I'm working on the same idea of the engine swap for my S10 pickup, not my Blazer. should be a lot of fun.
  • ya might be that but it drives perfect in 2hi only makes the clunking noie in 4wd. just tried it yesterday and it did it again but only when i turn the wheel or accelerate
  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    Problem solved: gummed up fuel filter. $12.62 later and it runs fine.
  • I just did the lower intake on my 99 blazer. put it all back together and fired it up. I fired up and i shut it down quickly. Went an ate dinner and returned to move it onto ramps to change oil before i test drove it and no it wont start. It cranks and sputters but wont kick on. Plugs are wet, i dropped the dristributer right back into place and my marks matched. dont know what to do or where to start. :mad:
  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    Last starting issue was also due to a really bad, messed distributor cap and rotor. Replaced and she runs fine.
  • Hi all,

    I just wanted to share my recent experience. My 18-year old son crashed my 2000 Blazer. I had to pay more than $3,000 to fix it but the pain was more than the one-time expenditure. My Blazer now has subtle vibration on the steering wheel at acceleration and coasting, and the vibration is accompanied by the loud road noise. I think that the collision caused a misalignment of axles.

    I really miss the smooth, quiet, silky ride of my Blazer. Now my Blazer is driving like a rough, noisy truck. I bought it new in 2000 and it has 83,000 miles on it.

    Just a thought for everyone: if you test drive a used car or SUV, pay attention to any roughness of ride on accelaration and coasting. If you feel any roughness or excessive road noise, it may be because of misalignment of axles from an accident.
  • It will likley be the front wheel bearings.. does it have a humming noise to it at all when u turn the wheel one way or the other? if so let me know and i can help narrow down which bearing it is.
  • Hi Sealteam8,

    Thank you for your kind words. I will test it and let you know as soon as possible.
  • I just replaced my 4WD transmission module. I haven't been using 4WD for 2 yrs, but now I can't turn fully easily. If I'm going slowly It acts like I'm applying the brake.Any idea's?
    Doug
  • Hi Sealteam8,

    I tried and listened to the sound from the front end and feel the vibration on the steering wheel while the vehicle was making right and left turns and moving straight. It sounded like those problems were significantly reduced during the turn, both right and left, even though the weight was on the front wheels. I do not seem to hear humming noise during the turns. In the meantime, the noise and vibration seemed to exist whenever the vehicle was moving and they increased and decreased as the speed went up and down on the straight path and during the turns.

    Do you have any ideas?

    Do you think the noise and vibration could be from over-inflated tires? The body shop seems to have kindly cleaned and inflated the tires for me.

    I will try and hear the noise and feel the vibration when the vehicle is driving on the very smooth road surface, where the tire noise is expected to be minimum. Thank you again for your help. I will post my message again.
  • Ok...my GMC is parked due to expired tags and engine problems. I have a full tank of gas and want to siphon the gas out to put in my van but there is apparently a screen on the tank..is there a way to get the gas out WITHOUT having to drop the tank?? there is skid plate over my fuel tank so it would be a big pain in the keester.....and my fiancee is sick and cant help me do it right now...so i would be emptying the tank.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    2001 Blazer with 122,567 miles. Coming home I got the 0446 code. What is it and where do I need to look and/or need to replace. Solenoid, canister??? Never replaced those so I am not sure where they are. Just replaced distributor cap and rotor two weeks ago. Had it inspected at our local MVC and they tested the gas cap and it passed. Replaced fuel pump and filter two months ago. It seems that when it rains, the SES light pops up. Once cleared it stays gone. Would appreciate all/any advice/help. Thanks. . . . . .
  • I have a 2002 Chevy Trailblazer with 64000 on the vechicle. Yesterday the driving lights did not come on. Are there seperate bulbs for the driving lights? I have low and high beams for the regular headlights.
  • my 98 blazer loses power put in neutral turn off restart has power again for minute
    has new fuel pump,fuel filter,egr,maf, dist. cap,rotor,plugs, wires,thought maybe exhaust drop converter still the same
  • It might be the converter or muffler is plugged up. it could also be the fuel pressure regulator.
  • My son just had his dash board cluster replaced on his 1989 Jimmy and a week or so later, his steering wheel started getting giggly and eventually (over the course of a day or so) would flop around like a dying fish and no longer turn the front wheels. Had wires not been connected to it, it literally would have fallen off. We towed it back to the place that replaced the dash board cluster and they claim they never touched the steering column, and that the Jimmy is known for steering column issues like this. Is he getting screwed with here or is it normal to be able to replace a dash board cluster without touching the steering column. And if so, what would cause the internal components of a steering column to fall apart on it's own? :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,832
    No, you don't have to touch the steering column to replace the dash cluster on this truck.

    MODERATOR

  • over the past few months my 99 jimmy (4.3L) has had problems starting when it was wet or damp outside. and now over the past few days it has been extremely cold and the car acts like that battery is dead. when i go to start it, the key turns, the starter clicks and then everything is dead, so i pop the hood and the light under the hood is out. After waiting a few seconds the light comes back on, until trying to start the car again, the power leaves again. So I jumped it today and got it running and had the auto parts store do a battery,alternator,starter and load test and it passed without any problems...does any body have any idea what the problem could be, all i can think of is that the battery may have acquired a bad cell, unless this issue is an offspring from the wet condition issue.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,832
    I would thoroughly clean the battery cables and check the battery cable ground and positive connections on the other end as well--the chassis and starter.

    MODERATOR

  • I think your battery is Dying, but I would certainly clean and tighten all the connections, just to be sure. There isn't any computer stuff between the key and the starter, just old fashioned wire and electrons. If you have a test light or Multimeter, see what they show during the start process. I once had a bolt that was too long for the battery, so It wouldn't tighten properly, and would act sort of like that. It really has to be a connection thing if the battery is really good.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Check the ground cable on the low side of the block. Just follow the large cable down from the battery and you will see it. Not too hard to get to.
  • The brake lights on my 1997 Jimmy don't work. The lights work and the turn signals work. Also, how do you remove the hydraulic arm on the tailgate? Thanks
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    If everything on the back is working except the brake lights, check the brake light switch down on the brake pedal arm. Easy fix, and cheap, too.

    To remove the hydraulic cylinders, take a small flat blade and pop of the little flat c-clips at both ends of the unit. Watch your eyes, those things will fly when they come off!
  • YOUR PROBABLY CORRECT,THE PROBLEM IS IN THE FRONT DIFF. LIFT THE VEHICLE,REMOVE THE HOUSING ON THE PASS. SIDE OF THE DIFF HOUSING WHERE THE SHIFT CABLE FROM THE VACUUM ACCUATOR IS ATTACHED. PULL IT OFF ABOUT ONE IINCH AND DETACH THE SHIFT CABLE FROM THE SHIFT FORK. NOW,WITH YOUR HAND, PULL THE SHIFT FORK OUT AS FAR AS YOU CAN. WHILE DOING THIS TURN THE FRONT DRIVE SHAFT[MAKE SURE THE VEHICLE IS IN 2WD SO TRANSFER CASE IS NOT ENGAGED] AND SEE IF THE FRONT PASS WHEEL TURNS. IF IT DOES TURN TOUR SHIFT CABLE COULD BE BAD ALONG WITH THE POSSIBILITY OF A WEAK DIAPHRAM IN THE ACCUATOR ITSELF. IF YOU GET A WEAK TURN OR A RATCHETTING SOUND IT PROBABLY IS ONE OF THE FOLLOWING. BAD SNAP RING THAT HOLDS ACCUATING GEAR IN PLACE--BAD OR WORN GEAR--BAD OR WORN THRUST WASHERS. COST TO PURCHASE PARTS TO REPLACE ALL IS AROUND $300 FROM A CHEVY DEALER. HOPE THIS HELPS. I AM A NEW MEMBER OR I WOULD OF ANSWERED A LOT SOONER.
  • Hi, thanks for your answer. I've suspected that it would be something like that, but I was hoping to get it confirmed before I disassemblied it, so your answer is appreciated. I have bought a new actuator just in case, but the old one seems to pull real hard. I have lifted the vehicle, started, put it in D, in 2HI, 4HI, and 4LO, but I can't hear any abnormal sounds in the front axle. I will remove the housing as soon as it gets a little warmer here. It will probably cost a bit more than $300 if there's some other problem in the gear, I live in Sweden :) . Thanks.
  • I know your message is old, but I alos have 97 Blazer with oxygen sensor problems. Are there 3 sensors? Ans were they located where your message said?
    And did you change them? If so, was it a hard project? Any help would be great
  • my security light is comming on, the truck runs like crap when it is on, hooked a snap on scan tool up to the truck for a no start problem and when ever you start the truck it looses connection, does anyone have any advice?? thank you for your time and advice
    :sick:
  • s10mojos10mojo Posts: 2
    Hi this is my first time here. I had a simple question. I have chance to buy a 1993 s10 Blazer 4x4. It only has 63000 miles on it. I was told it has fuel problems or bad fuel pump. Is there any major costly repairs involving full system in the 93s? Is there easy test to determine if its pump. Before i buy it. I figured for 700 bucks i cant loose either way. The main reason i was buying it was for parts for my 91 s10 that was in a wreck. But i may keep the 93. Thanks this is a real cool sight.Have A good night all.
  • auto9999auto9999 Posts: 86
    I am thinking of replacing the front turn signal units. My body shop installed the ones without fog lamps for my 2000 Blazer 4WD trailblazer trim. My vehicle was originally equipped with the fog lamps.

    Do you have to remove the bumber, or can you replace them from under the vehicle?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Well, the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank. Quick way to tell if it is totally dead is to turn the key to on, not start, and see if you hear a buzz/hum come from the gas tank. This will tell you if it is getting power. Then, a pressure test will tell you if the pump is working to spec. Any shop should be able to check this for you. If those are both good, there could be a problem in the "spider" that feeds the fuel injection. At this point, you are probably approaching the purchase price, but if this vehicle is in otherwise good shape, with 63K miles on it, there are still a lot of valuable parts to work with! Salvage parts have gotten very pricey, so weigh your alternatives.
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