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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    Thanks for comments on my Blazer idle speed. Can't really set the idle speed as the computer program controls this. If the 5.3 also idles this slow maybe this is the correct rpm. Be due for an oil change next month and I'll ask the dealer tech about this. This particular dealer has some people who seem to know something about cars.
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    My Blazer seems to idle around 550 rpms too, but runs fine at that speed. I suspect you have dirty fuel injectors. I would run injector cleaner through it for a few tanks.
  • I have a 1995 Chevrolet Blazer LT 4x4 4-Door. I'm driving last night and I notice the oil pressure gauge is reading only 40PSI. Thats funny I think to myself, its normally at 60-70PSI . Well then the oil pressure drops to 0, then back up to 40, and then 0 again. By the time it was hitting 0 for the second time I had already turned on to a side street & was just shutting her down. I pull off to the side, pop the hood, & get out to have a look. Well by the time I get out I notice about 3quarts of oil already on the ground. I pop the hood and I notice that my engine compartment (which was spotless previously) is covered in new engine oil. I look down and begin to see the oil drip out even more, starting to get onto my shoes. Well I hop back in and call Chevrolet Roadside Assistance. I get a tow, but now it's stuck at a dealership, I think it is the dreaded oil cooling lines.

    Anyone have any advice for me?

    Thanks,

    Joe
  • I had a bad creak from the driver's door. The creak started after the dealer replaced the window regulator. After trying many things, I found it to be the bolts where it connects the front of the window frame in the front of the door. I put paper and plastic washers between the connection, but the creaking started back up in about 2 weeks time. I ended up giving the front window frame guide a very slight bend with a large pliers. It has been quite for over a month now.
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    My door is still has a creak. Where did you bend the front window guide? Did you bend the guide or the bracket? I have taken the front door panel off twice now for this noise. Do you have to remove the panel to do this?
  • mrchwmrchw Posts: 2
    anyone have an issue with a sticky accelerator? for the past few weeks it's been getting pretty bad, lurching out of parking spaces is getting a little dangerous!

    99 with 44K miles....
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    sounds like its the throttle body. Did you have it cleaned around 30K? Might be a good idea.
  • The Service Manual for the 4.3 liter V6 expects a scan tool idle reading of 650 RPM. This desired reading is with the engine at operating temperature, engine idling in closed loop (full computer control), closed throttle, accessories off, and transmission in park or neutral. The VCM (Vehicle Control Module) primarily maintains the engine's idle speed through postioning commands to the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. A faulty IAC valve or a build-up of deposits on the valve's pintle can degrade idle performance. Since crankcase ventilation passes oil vapor into the intake air, the IAC valve and throttle plate are prone to the accumulation of deposits.
  • To all of you thinking about purchasing a Chevrolet Blazer of the 1999 vintage: D O N' T...
    I have owned mine since February of 2000. Below list shows the problems that I have encountered so far:
    1. left front pinion seal: replaced twice
    warranty repairs.
    2. fuel sending unit-warranty repair
    3. fuel gauge-warranty repair
    4. oil cooler lines: replaced both lines twice
    warranty repair first time,
    second time out of pocket $$
    5. intake manifold gasket replaced-out of warranty
    6. dead battery: warranty repair

    This is all that I can remember at this time. I am sure that if I think hard enough that I will remember additional things that I have had to get fixed. The last repair occurred last week when I needed the oil cooler lines replaced for the second time within 18 months. There is a 12 month warranty on GM parts so I was forced to pay for the second round of replacement lines. This is the BIGGEST piece of American made junk ever created. Please stay away from this vehicle if you are thinking about a purchase. My personal opinion is that if you haven't had any of these problems so far; you will at some time in the future.
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    I had a problem with my 96 Jimmy not delivering enough heat in the cabin. I think the problem started a couple of years ago. After changing the thermostat to no avail I decided it was time for the 5 year change of dexcool. I flushed out the cooling system and even took the heater hoses off the engine and flushed the heater core with a garden hose. I noticed a lot of slime and crud come out of the heater core. Now the heat works wonderful, but I notice a coolant smell anytime the heater is on. I can't find a leak anywhere. Is it possible that flushing the heater core "unplugged" some pin holes and now it is leaking enough to smell, but not enough to see on the floor? Is there any way to leak test the core without taking the dash apart?
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    Why did you need to have the intake manifold gasket replaced? Was it leaking coolant?
  • zr2randozr2rando Posts: 391
    I have a 99 S10 ZR2 P/U that also HAD a sticky accelerator..
    Look at the accelerator cable connector at the throttle body on top of the motor, you will see the lever that you can move with your finger as if you wanted to rev the motor while standing by the engine. It seems to have a magnetic connection where that lever touches the mechanical stop, that magnetic connection made the lever "sticky". I put a piece of electrical tape over the stop so it was no longer a metal/metal contact, now I don't sometimes "jump" out of a parking place like it used to want to do
    Hope this helps
    Rando
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    As you suspect the heater core may have a leak.

    You are leak testing the heater core every time to run the vehicle up to normal operating temperature and pressure. Are you losing engine coolant?
  • I have had my 99 Blazer for two years and the push buttons to change from (2HI) to (4HI) or (4LO) or (auto4WD).(4HI) only blinks and the light never stays solid --but it seems to be in (4HI)or (4LO) but it just keeps blinking(they will blink for as long as I pushed (4HI)or (4LO)-- until I push (2HI)again- and I'm back in (2HI). No other things wrong just the blinking for (4HI) or (4LO)when pushed.When I push the (auto4WD) button it will blink for a while then just go back to (2HI)by itself. They stop blinking when I push (2HI) and its solid and I'm in (2HI)..
    Any comments would be appreciated.
    tomgregory@lisco.com
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    Thanks for the feedback. I have since confirmed that the heater core is leaking and have an appointment to have it replaced. The best price I could find was $420. They all say it is a long and difficult procedure because the dash has to be removed. I have talked to several mechanics who say the problem is the GM dexcool. After surfing the net looking for dexcool I tend to agree there are some issues here. I complained to my GMC dealer, but he could only provide sympathy. I have a suggestion for everyone with GM vehicles about 96 and later: don't wait for 5 years to flush the cooling system. I suggest 2-3.
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    As I emailed to tgregory3, his encoder needs to be replaced
  • revkerrevker Posts: 33
    Hello all. I've got 2 '98 Blazers, 4x4 LS and LT. I pull a 4500lb boat w/trailer. both trucks have just about 70K miles. I am just changing the brake pads for the first time since owning it. problem i'm having is that i can't take off the rear brake rotor. the brake rotor has a score and i'd like to have it resurfaced at autozone. i've got 4 wheel disc brakes. the rear brake rotor is the drum type. i just can't pull it off like the ones in the front. i'm thinking maybe the parking brake is holding it. i tried tapping it with a mallet lightly but it's the same thing. is there something i'missed? calipers are already off the hub. anyone have done this before? any input on this matter is greatly appreciated. thanks.
  • Since you have 70K miles on the vehicle and this is the first time you are attempting to remove the rear rotors, I suspect your primary problem is adhesion between the rotor and axle flange mating areas. Debris and rust will create a seal between the mating surfaces. I suggest you apply a bead of penetrating oil to the center hub area of the rotor where it contacts the axle flange. Careful tapping of the area with a small hammer to create a vibration wave should dislodge the adhesion (no heavy pounding; the vibration not brute force is the key - the rotor metal is brittle at certain points). Slowly turn the rotor as you pull it from the axle flange. This should also help to break the bond between the rotor and the flange. So that nothing is overlooked, I assume you have removed the any sheet metal retainers on the wheel lugs. These are installed at the factory and must be clipped off before you can remove the rotor. Also, I assume the parking brake is fully disengaged. Since you use your vehicle for towing, I would be extra careful to be sure the score in your rotor can be removed by the brake lathe without cutting off an excessive amount of the rotor width. While there is a minimum width specification, I would not want to get to that point and rely on it for demanding brake service. As a point of precaution, do not attempt to pry the rotor from the flange. It can damage the rotor beyond repair. Good luck!
  • revkerrevker Posts: 33
    thanks for the detailed input. i will try doing that tonight. hopefully i'll succeed. i'll use WD-40 since i've got that in the garage. what you're saying makes sense because i can rattle the rotor in and out by about 8th of an inch. it seems like something is holding it from just sliding out. i'll use a hammer instead of a mallet this time to create a vibration. any idea what would be my other option if the rotor still won't budge? thanks again!
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    Since you can move the drum about an 1/8 then it is a rim of corrosion holding it on.

    For drum brakes there is an adjuster that keeps the shoes out near the surface of the drum to compensate for wear of the brake shoe. There usually is a small oval cut out behind the brake housing that has a rubber plug in it. A special bent sdcrew driver type tool is used to back the adjuster off which brings the shoes in toward the axle and then the drum will slide off.
  • zr2randozr2rando Posts: 391
    Like CLIFFWILLSON said those lug clips are put on at the factory as an assembly aid and need to be cut off before you can get the rotor off. The design on those rear disk brakes leaves a lot to be desired...The drum portion is nothing like normal drum brakes.
    The parking brake caliper is only a partial ring of very thin brake material and your parking brake mechanism only bends it out at the end of the "c"-shape. If it has ever been accidentally left engaged and you drove off (which is easy to do because they don't grab very well) they are toast...literally...and will need to be replaced.
    Mine were replaced under warranty, My parking brakes did not work when I picked up the vehicle so I took it to Chev...they were clearly (visibly) overheated and did not function at all. Someone probably didn't realize they were on during one of the first test drives and there they went.
    The Chev mechanic told me that the retract mechanism had therefore locked up (overheated in the extended position) and therefore were locked into a groove in that mini-hub...whole rotor assembly had to be replaced...under warranty luckily. If that is the case for you, you may want to check with Chev for any hints how to get the rotor off, There is no opening on the back side to mechanically retract that parking brake caliper..like I said ....design leaves ALOT to be desired.
    Possibly may be so expensive you may just have to replace the pads and go with it as is, next time it is up for replacement then replace the whole thing, frequently the rotor cannot be resurfaced twice anyway.
    Good luck.
    Rando
  • HELP!
    Has anyone had to replace fuse to turning signals
    for 97 Chevy Blazer. Was told it was under the dash. Almost tore the car apart looking for it. Will appreciate any advice to the location.
  • I have a 99' Blazer, the fuses are on the left side of the dash, between the dash and the door. There is a little door there, you turn knob clock wise and it will open. There is a 2nd. fuse box under the hood, driver side halve way between the front and the windsheld. Good luck, hope I helped.
  • Rather than a fuse, I believe you are interested in replacing the turn signal/hazard light flasher. It is located behind the glove compartment. You need to open your glove compartment, depress the clip at the top of the backside of the compartment. The unit will slip forward and reveal the flasher assembly. It is a small square shaped component that plugs into an electrical socket and is further held in place by a plastic snap tab around the outside. If you still get a clicking noise from the flasher, engage your signal light and the clicking noise will guide you to the flasher once you have the glove comparment moved out of the way.
  • beejoobeejoo Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 4dr LS Blazer with 145,000 miles. The list is long. Brakes go out every 30,000 to 35,000 miles @ $300 per pop. After the 3rd set of GM brake pads I went to PepBoys and put on their Lifetime pads for $60 and have 45000 miles on them. Still have not changed them.

    The alternator went out at 60000 miles ($350). The Air Compressor went out at 75000 miles ($850). Heater coil out last month ($450). Today, the gas intake seal leaking coolant fluid ($350). The transmission shifted hard out of 1st gear after 3 months. Brought the vehicle in twice, GM says it shifts perfect. So I drive it like that for 4 years like that. Finally brought it in because of the SES light on. After another $800 for 3 parts for other problems, the transmission shifts perfect. I have had to change the battery every 12 months for 4 years. No questions asked. The current battery is 14 months old. It could go any day now. At 65 mph and above, it has a very annoying front to back shake. Balanced tires, shocks and new tires. Never got any better. There is more, but that is all I can think of at this time.

    Bottom line, this is the worst vehicle I have ever owned. About the only good thing I can say about this vehicle is the engine has lots of power. Other than that, nothing. This was my first GM product. I will not buy another.
  • Your story sounds an awfull like my 95 that I got rid of. The final straw was when I needed a new fuel pump at 47K (around a $300 repair).
    They should change the commercial to:
    "Like a Creampuff"
    Ron
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    It's nice to know there are so many out there who can feel my pain. I have a 96 Jimmy with all the problems in the last two messages except for the alternator, which will probably go out tomorrow. I have also had other problems such as the infamous leaking oil cooler lines. That was the least expensive because a friend of a fiend got them for me at a dealer for about 30 bucks. I have always had good luck with GM vehicles until now. For those who need additional therapy, just read some of the Explorer messages.
  • Transmission hard shift out of 1st is probably a worn modulating valve in the valve body. I was lucky, my SES light went on and the dealer quickly identified the problem. Typically happens when the tranny fluid is hot (mine happened an hour into a 400-mile highway trip). Not isolated to just Blazers/Jimmys/Bravadas, but any GM truck using the 4T60-E tranny. The cure is an updated valve body... the original one used a plastic modulating valve that becomes ovalized over time and allows fluid to leak past, resulting in the hard upshift.

    Since we are on the subject of the 4T60-E, I've discovered another phenomenom. Even with the new valve body, when the tranny is hot, the 1>2 upshift at light to part-throttle is what GM calls a "double bump" (cold and WOT shifts are firm). I'm going in next week to have the tranny tore into and have the servo rod that controls the shift "adjusted", according to my service advisor, which should firm up the shift (fingers crossed).
  • bioman3bioman3 Posts: 37
    I owned a 95 Jimmy for about 4 years. It was an experience as you can see from the maintenance records below. I removed the regular maintenance items so thing might seem out of sync. I now own an Explorer which has been a gem by comparison. Very few problems, just regular maintenance. If misery loves company, I hope I made you feel better! Sorry about the order of the data base items. They did not transfer well to this email, but you get the flavor of the Jimmy I owned.

    Service Items Repaired Reason Special Comments
    2/16/95 Picked up Jimmy 00002.9 New truck
    5/15/95 Recall- Crankshaft sensor 03934 Recall
    5/15/95 Replaced CMSL 03934 Warranty
    6/95 1st. Repair of water leak 04000 Warranty
    6/95 2nd repair leak replaced gasket on right rear door 04500 Warranty
    9/8/95 Replaced all wiper arms 09576 Pealing paint on arms Warranty
    1/23/96 Replaced front braked & cut rotors 15007 maint.
    11/5/96 New battery 23338 Warranty
    11/10/96 New front brakes 23520 Maint
    7/13/97 New front brakes 32137 6th problem
    10/24/97 Replaced torque converter & pump 35045 8th. Problem
    11/7/97 Replaced oil lines to filter, fuel tank recall 35600 9th problem, fuel tank recall
    4/9/98 New front brakes & calipers 41577 10 th problem
    4/14/98 New rear brakes + Repaired brake light switch 41865 11th Problem
    7/18/98 New right caliper 45434 Leak of brake fluid from caliper
    8/22/98 New left front door elect. Lock 46911 Did not open door
    1/10/99 Front brakes, rotated tires 52508 12 th problem fast brake pad wear
    4/17/99 New shift cable 56809 Cable broke could not shift transmission
    6/12/99 New front brakes, rotated tires 59221 13 th problem- fast brake pad wear
    6/15/99 New front rotors 59290 14th problem- rotors scorched & grooved
    7/12/99 Windshield washer pulse control 60175 15th. Problem Recall
    7/22/99 Replace catalytic converter 60443 16th. Problem Warranty work
    10/31/99 new front brake pads, new left front caliper 65440 17th. Problem
    10/31/99 New Battery+ Found vanity light in right sun visor has been on for four years!! 65455 18th. Problem
    12/30/99 ABS ROM Chip + NYS Inspection 66780 19th Problem recall & inspection
  • gbondgbond Posts: 5
    i am finally getting around to replacing the oil cooler lines on my 99 blazer.

    for one of the pieces, my gm parts shop provided me with part no. 15760333, which is the lines btwn the radiator/oil cooler and filter housing.

    the part is identified as a "replacement part" in the gm inventory, replacing original part no. 15726903. (apparently the original part is no longer manufactured?).

    the original design featured on the upper hose a metal tube fitting with a 90 deg angle and short length to fit into the quick-release fitting in the radiator/oil cooler.

    the replacement part, in contrast, is noticeably different from the original in that this metal tube features, from its end, a longer length before arcing into a gradual downward curve as it straightens and connects to the rubber hose segment.

    the original design seemed to assure that this oil hose fitting would plug into the radiator/oil cooler quick-release fitting with nearly no room to spare between the radiator/oil cooler and air box.

    i haven't applied the new part yet, but just after eyeing the application, it appears there is no way this new-styled upper oil cooler line fitting is going to fit in the space available btwn the upper quick release fitting and the air box. the length of tube before it bends downward is so long that it appears it will stick out far beyond the limit imposed by the position of the air box.

    does anybody have experience with this new "replacement" part?

    is it going to work or does the air box need to be re-positioned?

    many thanks,

    gregg
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