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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • auto9999auto9999 Posts: 86
    Hi everyone,

    Here is my update. My Blazer's SES light is turned off after I cleaned the MAF sensor with a sprayed a few days ago. I was planning to have the SES light cleared at Autozone today but when I started the engine the SES was no more lit. I did a lot of homework about the vacuum and PCV hoses and I will keep my research for the next time I need it.

    Thank you again for your help. Have a good Memorial Day weekend.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    If you turn your AC on and it will only blow out the heater/floor vents, the vacuum line has collapsed. But now you know what to look for!

    Have a great weekend
  • kifkif Posts: 1
    i have the same problem what did u come up with?
  • pkirwinpkirwin Posts: 1
    My 04 Blazer with the big V-6 has an AC Clutch that is stalling and squeeling. I thought that the problem just might be low freon, but I can find no leaks and the systems is still putting out ice cubes.
    I need to know what kind of tools and the proceedure for doing this myself. I have worked with AC before, own two classic cars, and have a wife with an extensive first aid kit.
    While I am there, I plan to replace the water pump and the big rubber band.
    Pat
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,050
    COMPRESSOR CLUTCH PLATE AND HUB ASSEMBLY REMOVAL (V7 - DIRECT MOUNT)

    TOOLS REQUIRED

    * J 33013-B Hub and Drive Plate Remover/Installer
    * J 33027-A Clutch Hub Holding Tool
    * J 41790 A/C Compressor Holding Fixture

    COMPRESSOR CLUTCH PLATE AND HUB ASSEMBLY REMOVAL (With RPO Code HT6/HD6/HU6)

    TOOLS REQUIRED

    * J 34992 Compressor Holding Fixture
    * J 33013-B Hub and Drive Plate Remover/Installer

    This is all done off-vehicle of course so you'll need to evacuate and recharge the AC as well.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • 95jimmy95jimmy Posts: 1
    I have a 95 2door jimmy. It has about 194k on it. For the most part it runs great but when it shifts from second to third the truck jerks forward a little bit. Is this a big deal or no?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,050
    Well hard to say. As a car ages the seals in the trans get old and less flexible, and the valve body might be sticking---and then there's the usual wear and tear on clutch packs, etc. If you are really concerned, you could drop the pan and check for excessive amounts of metallic debris. That would be a warning sign. Also some nice clean fluid and a filter, and perhaps a good conditioner, might help you along.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • bden1bden1 Posts: 2
    A shop just changed the lower gasket on my intake manifold and the spider fuel injector on my 2000 cheverlot blazer. Before I took it in the heater worked. The next day when I got it back the heater did not work. The shop checked and said the heater core is clogged. They flushed the cooling system but said the core is bad. Can the work they did somehow contribute to the heater core getting clogged?
  • bden1bden1 Posts: 2
    2000 Chevy Blazer ABS problems, engages even with normal breaking. pumping the breaks helps. Could this be a bad master cylinder?
  • auto9999auto9999 Posts: 86
    It may be a bad speed sensor. It is a relatively cheap fix. It happened to my 2000 Blazer, too. Good luck.
  • auto9999auto9999 Posts: 86
    My 2000 Blazer also had bad heater core and I had to replace it. The heater core can be clogged over weeks or months. In my case the symptom was the gurgling sound in the heater core. Then the coolant leaked from the heater core to inside cabin and then to the outside of the vehicle.

    Looks like your heater core is just clogged and is not leaking. If I were you, I would bring the vehicle to another shop (maybe a reputable dealer or someone you can really trust) and have it examined. They might be able to flush your heater core.

    Good luck to you.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    They may have gotten debris in the cooling system. Quick repair attempt would be to pull the hoses off the core and backflush the core with a garden hose. Note what comes out of the core. If it backflushes to clean water, and forward flushes okay, hook the hoses back up and top off the cooling system with Dexcool or equivilent (long life antifreeze. Don't mix with the 12 month stuff, bad things happen!), assuming that's what was put in after the gasket repair.
  • danvega13danvega13 Posts: 1
    2002 BLAZER with a stuck steering wheel. key goes in and makes "bong" noise but will not turn at all. steering wheel is locked and won't turn either.HELP!!
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    Some debris could easily have been knocked loose during the maintenance work. GM's Dexcool will form crud in the cooling system if it isn't flushed and replaced every two years. Also, mixing other antifreeze with the Dexcool will cause the gummy stuff to form.

    I've never had any luck clearing a clogged cooling system with flushing,. The chemicals just don't eat away the stuff. The only sure cure is to Remove and Replace. Your radiator and heater core may begin to leak due to the corrosion of the aluminum. This is usually due to the electrical current created between the aluminum radiator and iron engine block by the weak antifreeze (same as above).
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    Two common problems create this. 1) worn/broken ignition switch or 2) the front wheels are turned when the key is turned off, creating tension on the steering wheel lock pin. It can take a lot of effort on the steering wheel to relieve the tension enough to allow the key to move.
  • bagwanbagwan Posts: 1
    Could you tell me the location of the A/C drainhole on a 1995 jimmy? thanks.
  • Does anyone know where the drains are for the moonroof? My 2002 2-door blazer smells of mildew. I think my moonroof drains are clogged but I can't seam to find them so that I can blow them out with a compressor.

    There are no signs of leaks, I just smell mildew when it rains.
  • I have a 98 Chevy blazer LT and just about a month ago only the day time running lights would work, and at night they will shut off. me and my friend figured out you can make the DRL's stay on with a flashlight up against the photocell. but I still cant get the actual headlights to work, also the brights wont come on, not even the indicator light telling me that its on.
    What do you think could be the problem?
  • I have the same problem! No power to the cab at all. I have power at my starter and my alternator but no power at my ignition. Someone told me that it could be a bad fusable link too but I had power to the cab before I changed my engine. If you get any help with this or find the problem let me know. thanks
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    I haven't dealt with this problem myself, so all I have is general advice.

    Since the DRL work with the flashlight and in daytime, the photocell must be OK and the body control module (computer) is correctly switching the DRL off, but the headlights aren't coming on.

    Could be fuse for headlights or headlight relay. A wiring diagram (mine is in another state right now) would let you track down the headlight relay wiring, and then follow the wiring to the trouble spot.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    When DRL was first coming to the US, I remember that there was a module that was in series with the headlights that switched the voltage from low to high for the DRL circuit. I don't know if such a module is still used, or if this is handled in another way, but your sensor is working, and something is switching the DRL off and on, so the "control" circuit is good.

    I just checked a GM parts listing for a '98 S series Blazer, and there is a DRL module listed. It is mounted on a bracket next to the headlight relay. There is also a diode listed in the circuit. I wish I could be more help, but the detail on this is very sketchy. I did just find a DRL "typical" schematic for GM, and it shows that if the headlight switch is bad, the DRL will work, but not the headlights. They are fed from different sources.
  • I have a 2002 Chevy Blazer that I took into a local dealership in Miami for exchange of the ignition switch. They returned the car to me with the steering wheel slightly out of center to the left. If you center the wheel while driving the car veers to the right. It did not do this before I had the ignition repair done. Now the dealership tells me that the steering wheel cannot be re-installed out of center since there is a pin that prevents this from happening. They say that the car needs a front end alignment and want to charge me $85 to do it. Are they trying to fool me or does their explanation make any sense? Thanks in advance!
  • Tell them you are speaking with an attorney/lawyer. If you have the money to do so, please do. Then send a registered letter that has to be signed for to GM/Chevrolet that is very carefully and respectfully worded, explaining the end result of the repair.

    Try not to be demanding, but explain that this was a problem caused by the dealer and you should not have to pay to correct something they caused.

    If you bought the Blazer new, that is in your favor and add that to the letter, as well as any GM/Chevrolet purchased new by you or your family.

    After you've sent the letter, you might try calling, but expect many delays in contacting anyone that has the authority to make them fix the problem.

    This is just a suggestion because I did that for my mother once and it did work at that time.

    Good luck and let us know how this turns out.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    The front suspension is out of alignment in relation to the steering wheel. The car will not wander or drift in one direction if you don't mind looking at a off - center steering wheel.

    If it was not that way before you took it to the dealership, they may have hit a curb or something while moving it around b ecause the steering wheel is not going get off center by itself. The dealership is correct in saying that the steering wheel cannot be realigned without realigning the front wheels.

    When you aligned the front end of the cars before the late-1970s, you seldom got the car back from the shop with the steering wheel centered when the vehicle was traveling straight ahead. That is because the shop technician did not use the special tool that holds the steering wheel in the correct position while the technician aligns the front wheels. When that happened to me, I just removed the steering wheel and realigned it on the splined steering shaft. That is not the proper way to do it but it achieves the same thing as doing it the correct way by realigning the front wheels. The end of the steering shaft has a "pip" mark at the steering wheel retainer nut and a pip mark on the center line of the steering wheel under the horn button assembly and those should be in alignment. There is also a "pip" mark on the steering shaft at the steering coupler . The coupler is mounted on the centerline of the steering shaft and should be aligned with the pip mark on the end of the steering shaft and the pip mark on the steering wheel. The flexible steering coupler connects the steering shaft to the steering sector.

    It is more complicated on modern cars because the wheel alignment alone determines the steering wheel position.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Assuming the wheel has be reinstalled correctly, a simple toe in check should be made. The alignment of the steering wheel is a function of setting the tie rod adjustment in a balanced fashion, ie if four turns are needed, you take two on each adjustment, not four on one side or the other.

    That being said, this vehicle DOES NOT use an alignment slot, though some cars do. And if the steering wheel is installed just one tooth off, it will definitely be turned when the car is going straight.

    How about this; take it back to the shop and tell them to remove the airbag cover and air bag. This will allow a visual inspection of the steering wheel and shaft. If the alignment marks are not lined up, they pull the wheel and make it right and you should owe them nothing. If the marks are lined up properly, then you need to find out how the alignment became altered.

    One other question; have the tires been rotated? It is not uncommon to have a bad tire cause a slight pull on the steering, resulting in the wheel being turned slightly when the vehicle is going straight. I have a BFGoodrich Radial T/A on a '99 Blazer right now that is doing this. Tire is smooth, wearing properly, but if I rotate it to the front, the vehicle will pull slightly in the direction it is installed. Put it on the rear, no problem.
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    The dealer service department is usually the worst place to get your car repaired. Use someone else if at all possible.

    You are going to have to be really firm with these people. The service writer's job is to generate as much work and income as possible. Customer Satisfaction is not on their list of things to do. As a matter of fact, they are experts at stonewalling, to minimize the amount of "come back" work, since it reduces the incoming cash flow.

    Demand to speak to the service manager, and don't take "no" for an answer until they have taken the necessary steps to resolve the problem. It doesn't hurt to reference the regional service organization, and the better business bureau. If this steering wheel was straight when you took it in, then they are obligated to return it in that condition, one way or another.

    If it has to have an alignment, I wouldn't have the dealer do it. Take it to a locally owned, independent alignment shop.

    I think the suggestion to pull the airbag and check the marks is a really good one.
  • royglenroyglen Posts: 2
    I took the starter off of my deer lease blazer a couple of months ago and had it tested at Autozone. It passed and I am just now getting around to installing it again and my memory is failing. The solenoid has 1 large post in the middle and 2 small posts, one of the small posts has an S beside it. I know that the heavy positive cable from the battery goes on the large post and I think the small purple wire goes on the S terminal. I don't remember where the other two wires go (they are joined together). The connector on those 2 is large enough to go on the large post and I think that is where they go. I seem to remember the second small post didn't have anything on it. Before I put these other 2 wires on the large post, I am hoping to get some advice from someone who knows the correct connection. Thanks. Roy
  • I'm stuck in costa rica with my 98 S-10 blazer 4x4. i need a new pitman arm, but they tell me they have to raise/lift the engine to replace it. it makes no sense to me, but i'm far from being any kind of mechanic. a friend recommended this forum. thanks for any advice.
  • I replaced the pitman arm on my 98 Blazer w/o lifting the engine. It was a bear to get the arm off (even with the right puller).

    Maybe they do not have the right tools to do the job.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,050
    No you don't have to raise the engine, but of course you have to lift the car and you need to get a few things out of the way to pull the arm off. Having the right tools helps a lot.

    * Tools Required:
    * J 24319-B Steering Linkage Puller.
    * J 29107-A Pitman Arm Puller.
    * J 6632-01 Pitman Arm Remover.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

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