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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    First, change the oil. You have a dangerous situation when gas gets in the oil pan.
    Second, it sounds like you have a leaking CPI that could be flooding the cylinder when the engine is not running. There is a regulator and a "spider assembly" involved in the fuel injection system, and the leak could be coming from here.
  • I had a 93 Astro, with A vortec motor.Did the same thing to my van, Spider Injecter broke a line,filled up my oil.Not to hard to change,but cost $300 for the part .Hope it helps you to know?
  • Hi guys I was wondering what kind of injection system my 2000 blazer 4.3 v6 has?It looks like throttle body injection to me.Its definatly not multi
    port.The reason I'm asking is my blazer which i just did a tune up on runs AWSOME except for when I floor the gas it seems 2 stumble a little and seems to struggle gettin up to rpms.3/4 throttle it RIPS!This truck
    does not smoke,burn oil or leak any fluids but it does have high mileage!

    PS:If I start this truck and take off right away it the engine doesnt seem to wanna go .I have to let it warm for 20 seconds or so.What do you guys think?Has anyone else had this problem?Remember this truck runs very very good except when I floor it and even then its not terrible buts its not 100% either.PLEASE HELP!Thank you guy's very much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • I have a 2000 s-10 style blazer and have problems starting with out shooting throttle body cleaner into it. Fuel pressure is low. we've come to the conclusion that its the pressure regulator. Can someone please link or tell me how to change it? I have the part but not sure if there is something I need to know about changing one beffore I get into it. Thanks in advance :sick:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Depending upon the mileage, you could have a bad throttle position sensor. Fancy name for a little device that tells the computer how far down you are pushing the throttle. When bad, these can do everything from screw up the idle to causing stumbles during throttle transitions to the symptom you described.

    And yes, you do have multiport fuel injection. What you are seeing that looks like a throttle body injection is just the "air valve" to the engine. The injectors are not visible from the outside.
  • tim153tim153 Posts: 4
    I am having the same problems. 98 Jimmy that starts and drives but many electric items are not working. Head lights will not come on, but high beams work, No radio, heater, outside temp is not working. NO inside lights, 2WD/4WD lights are not on, and no tach, speed, mile indicator.

    This is strange any ideas where to start? I though it was the wire harness going from the fire wall to the keyed switch so i changed that and it did not help.
  • Any one have an idea on how to lube the cable assy. that holds the spare up under the blazer? Glad I was home in the driveway when I tried to lower it and not out on the road someplace, had to use by biggest screw driver and 12" cresent wrench to get it started down, after about 3" all was fine but I would rather not try my luck when I need to use the spair.
    Thanks
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Wash all the dirt and grime out, hit it with WD40 to stop any rust, then go with a good dry lube. You want to use a spray on dry lube liberally, but avoid things like grease as they will tend to catch and hold road grime.
  • Thanks I had been thinking along the same line.
  • grobygroby Posts: 2
    I have a 95 jimmy. it has started to idle rough, and now comes close to dying when I stop suddenly or shift gears. it also failed emisions testing in the idle with 391 HC (PPM). check engine light is on but i can't get a scanner to work. scanner says it can't make a connection with my car? Any ideas? thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,781
    Well you're kinda screwed if you can't get a scanner to work because you'll probably need one to turn that light off. You can't pass a smog test with that light lit up.

    I think first thing I'd do is try another station to see if their scanner works. If not, you could have an issue with communicating with your car's PCM.

    As for the high HCs, this is usually indicative of a misfire, which could be tune-up related, or a bad 02 sensor, just to name 2 things. Also could be a lean misfire, caused by vacuum leaks.

    MODERATOR

  • I am changing the spider injector on my 1995 gmc jimmy but does anyone know which line goes into which hole in the intake? thanks alot
  • doesnt matter which hole , all same, ...least it was when I did mine.
  • I am trying to remove the stater motor in a 98 Chevy Blazer 4.3L vortec V6 4x4. It isn't a very easy part to get to, and I had major issues getting the bolt closest to the right side out, and am struggling with the second bolt. From what I have read and researched, it only takes the two main bolts to free up the unit for removal (aside from the wires). I also saw an additional page that states it may have a heat shield. Do you know if this vehicle has said heat shield?

    On another note, while I am doing the stater, am also considering installing new wires at the same time. What wires on the distributor go to which spark plugs? And where does the 7th wire go? The passengers side has 4, drivers side has 3 on the cap.
  • Yes there is a heat shield...access to the heat shield is through a hole cut in the inside of the wheel well, covered with a rubber flap. Wires I don't know about...replace them one at a time as not to mix them up.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Three plug wires each side. That fourth wire you see on the passenger side goes to the coil. If they are the original wires, they will be numbered. Otherwise you need to know that the cylinders are, front to back, drivers side 1,3,5, and passengers side 2,4,6. If you don't have a manual, look at the wires on the old cap before you take them off and make a diagram.
  • Hi I have a 99 GMC Jimmy, When I accelerate I notice a very low pitched but repetitive humming noise coming from what seems to be the rear of the vehicle. I notice it the most when I am getting onto the highway and am picking up speed at a faster rate. Once i reach my cruising speed on the highway the sound fades to nearly nothing but when i give it more gas the sounds comes back until i let off the gas. I'm am totally stumped on what this could be..I will mention that sometimes when i get off the highway and come to a stop, then start to move from a stop, I can feel the gears slipping into place for about the first 10 yards.. any ideas?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Stopped, engine running, and with foot on brake, shift from drive to reverse. Listen for a loud "clunk" from the rear axle. This could indicate a bad rear u-joint. Other causes of rear axle noise are a bad axle bearing, or (hopefully not) a bad pinion bearing. You didn't mention how many miles are on the vehicle, or if any work had been done to the differential recently.
  • 90,000 miles and no work had been done on the differential since i bought the vehicle...i will try the brake thing when the snow clears up here in a couple of days
  • Check fuse #7 (25 amp) in the fuse block to get the scanner to work.
  • I have a 1997 GMC Jimmy. The minute you get in it smells like a wet gym bag. It is nothing I have put in the vehicle or left on the carpet.
    I was told by a repair man that worked on it and commented that the mildew smell is from a part that needs to be replaced. Unfortunately, I forgot what it was. He said it is a very common thing with Jimmy's and not expensive. I could do it myself. Has anyone had this problem? Do you know what this part is that causes the smell?? Please help!
  • Not sure of the exact name or part number, but could it be the filter for the fresh air system?

    I have heard of this before, but my manual does not show where that filter is and I would like to know also.
  • I have 2002 Blazer, 4.3, auto, 4WD, 95K and have had one problem for over a year, the other problems started a couple months ago. I have had different guess's but they don't seem to fit or solve the problems.

    The first problem was the gas gauge. I can have a full tank of gas and the gauge will drop to empty. Sometimes, if I put the shift lever into neutral it will go back to where it should be and sometimes I have to rev the engine up a bit to make the gas gauge get back to where it should be. The only suggestions were, wiring or the sending unit in the gas tank. Oh yes, the trip computer seems to be fairly accurate as far as the amount of gas used compared to the mileage. This bugs me to no end and I could use some help with this problem.

    The second problem I need to get solved is a trouble code P0440. Everyone told me it was the gas cap. I had a new locking gas cap on it from the day after I bought it two years ago. I did keep the old cap, so I put that back on and erased the code. It worked for a few days, then came back on.

    I don't know if the two problems are related and because I changed the gas cap and the problem was OK for a few days then the CEL came back on, I am thinking it is not the gas cap.

    Have to get through inspection son and need to get that taken care of.

    One thing I should mention is that the smaller vacuum hoses had to be replaced several months ago. I am referring to the ones that control 4WD, and the fresh air system. They were all around 3/16ths size hoses.

    Any chance something could be plugged or another hose that is bad?

    The manual mentions the charcoal canister, but doesn't have a photo. It also mentions the EVAP purge control valve and mentions a couple tests, but not in good enough detail (I'm better with mechanical problems) for me.

    I posted the gas gauge problem here a long time ago, but probably worded it differently because I got no response at all.

    Help!
  • I have 2 problems. I purchased a 1997 Blazer. AS I was buying it the heater stopped. When I direct wire the fan motor to the battery the fan runs fine. I then replaced the fan speed switch and it worked fine for a week. Now it works sometimes and it doesnt work sometimes. I also noticed that the different doors do not open for heat options. I live in upstate NY (16 degrees today ) so i need this to work any suggestions?
    Also when I purchased the truck it needed a new battery. I installed one and after driving 40 miles tried to get it inspected. the mech said it was to soon to read the computer and told me to drive it more. 3 days later the service engine light went on and stayed on all afternoon. The next morning the light was off and has been since. When I reached 145 miles I tried to get it inspected and again the mech. said his message still read not ready to read. I have noticed small electrical items not working IE compass is backwards, gas and temp gauge dont seem to work, could they all be computer related?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Not a filter, the evaporator core drain is plugged. Water collects where it shouldn't and you get mildew. Easy way to tell is on a warm humid day, turn on the ac and see if you get any dripping under the car.

    Fairly common problem, the drain just needs to be cleaned. I know it is behind and below the dryer (that big silver thing by the firewall) but I can't tell you exactly where.
  • emydee23, did you every get your blazer starter replaced? I'm in the process of replacing my 1998 blazer 4x4 starter now and cannot figure out an easy way to unbolt the wires connected to the solenoid.

    After a bunch of twisting and moving around, I finally got the starter to a point to where I can pull it out, but it wont come out unless the wires connected to the solenoid are disconnected. How in the heck do you get a socket to these bolts?
  • edmccedmcc Posts: 1
    I've read a number of posts about the vacuum lines, but nothing happens when I push the 4HI or 4LO buttons on the dash - no clicks, no nothing. The 2LO and 4LO lights on the buttons didn't work when the 4WD worked last year, I get that they may just be burned out. The 4HI light still turns on and off when pressed. So is this still a vacuum problem? There was another post that there is a separate electronic control module that controls the shifting between 2 & 4 wheel drive that may need replaced. Should I look to replace that first? It just snowed here about 15", but better late than never.
  • Did you get it fixed?
  • This fan problem is the same on the 97 Jimmy. I live in Calgary Ab and It hit -34.6 degrees the other day and sure enough the f-ing thing stoped working. I have tried switching out the speed switch as well and its not that. I think it is something wrong with the fan its self. Somtimes if you do not use the fan for a while like me (never use it in summer at all) it tends to build up with crap and doesn't work. Problem is that in the Blazer as well as the Jimmy you have to cut away at it to get in there and patch it up after. Not sure if thats your problem but it worked for mine. Good luck man.
  • Hi guys I've got a problem with my blazer?This problem is not so bad that I can't drive the truck or anything like that.The truck rides very nice on a smooth road.It pulls to the left just a little.Now when a get on a road with a lot of little bumps or potholes it kinda cuts left and then back right and can be kinda difficult for some to drive.REMEMBER this not terrible but not 100% right,it's maybe 90% percent right.Its like the steering is a little loose or something?I dont know if this is a steering stabilzer,ball joints,tierod ends or maybe even shocks which the truck NEEDS REALLY REALLY BADDDDDD!!!!!!!!!!!!! :cry:
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