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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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  • dp2226dp2226 Posts: 28
    I had trouble finding this info and though it may help someone. Ordered a new cover and neglected to see it did not include the bolts.

    This was on a 99 Chevy Blazer 10 bolt and believe was the same for 12 Bolt.

    Min Grade 5 5/16 - 18 x 3/4

    5/16 is the diameter, 18 would be threads per inch, 3/4 lenght

    Found 3 packs of the bolts at Lowes for $1.04 Grade 8, Washers Grade 8 $1.04 per 5 pack
  • dp2226dp2226 Posts: 28
    This is just based on experience with my 99 I just picked up. I replaced all items noted except the sway bar. Looked new. Plus the wheel hubs, idler, pitman arm. My steering wheel is a little off center after a computerized alignment and notice sometimes at higher speeds tends to pull a little in the lane each way. Think most is just the fact it is an older truck.

    When I first bought the vehicle as soon as I turned on the truck, the wheel would sink to one side and the same side the wheel was wearing poorly. (Very unsafe ball joints)

    Turns out the ball joints, were very poor quality, one wheel hub was bad, pitman and idler arms were bad.

    To check wheel hubs, put the front end on some stands or even a side at a time may work. Grab the tires on the side and shake up and down. There should be no movement. Even a little is too much and heard these go frequently. Luckily they are $99 each at Autozone including the sensor which is another issue. plus $20 to replace the nut which is suggested. A garage replacing one side is around $450

    To check Pitman and Idler arms I believe there would be play on tires if you grab it and move it side to side. These are about $35 each. Is a little tough to install because of the location. I had to take off the steering box.

    To check if its a ball joint take the tire off grab the rotor and pull out on it if it moves its bad get it replaced. They range from $24 for the value brand and $45 each for the higher brand. Remember 2 per side. A garage gets 2.5 hrs per side plus double the cost of the parts.

    For the tierod someone wiggle the steering back an forth 10 to 2 o'clock should be enough to see play in the pitman arm,drag link, tie rod ends. If its a sealed boot around the inner tie rod end you can still check it, But just a little more difficult, Still takes anyone that can move the steering wheel back an forth.while you observe the steering knuckles move, No movement at the joint should be scene. No clunking, (if these are fine you may want to avoid replacing, can be a pain to thread the nut on the stud)

    If you can do the work yourself depending when any of these were last replaced, it would make sense to do them all at once because you will need an alignment and I paid around $75 .

    Make sure you are careful, ball joints will pop right out of place and spring the control arm, that is once you are lucky enough to get them off. Plus the more you take off the easier all this will be.

    I paid a Garage $80 to diagnosis the problems unintentionally because I was very new at this. They wanted $1000 for ball joints and 1 wheel hub. I was able to do all this work myself for $800, (not counting shocks, that does not sound like your problem.)

    It was very tough work the first time but learned a lot and could do so much faster now. You need good tools. Min 1/2" drive rachet, some PB Blasters, joint pry bar tools, a 24 inch breaker bar, possibly a cheater pipe, I used a 6ft metal fence post.
    Wear gloves to protect your hands. Most of the sizes are metric, one of the caliper bolts is 18mm, drove me nuts and almost stripped a nut.

    It is easier to loosen the wheel hub while, truck is on the ground, not to take off fully, just loosen.

    Hope any part of this helps, this is a ton of research and self expereince I found in many different places.
  • Hello I have purchased a 1997 blazer. I have had it about 1 month now but cant get it inspected. All he gets are incomplete and not ready codes IE: Evaorator unit: Not Ready
    Oxygen Sensor Heater: Not Ready
    EGR something: Not Ready
    Someone please help I already have 1 ticket for no inspection.

    Thanks
  • Try taking the EGR valve off and cleaning it. It will cause the same symptoms
  • My '00 Jimmy squeaks all the time. I decided to change the belt tensioner to see if that will fix it. Are there any online guides or anything that I can refer to if needed? I searched around but couldn't find anything.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    You don't have to change the whole tensioner, you can just change the wheel and bearing. First take the belt off and see if the bearing is bad.

    Also, I had this problem and was going crazy trying to figure it out. I could spray a little belt dressing on the serpentine and the squeak would stop for a while, then come back. Finally figured out it was the Gates belt (new) I was using. Changed to a Goodyear Gatorback belt and never hear another peep.
  • Well, I already have the tensioner, but I'll check the bearing first. I didn't know I can just get the bearing.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,127
    Finally figured out it was the Gates belt

    One theory is that the painted Gates logo on their belts can cause the squeak. Belt dressing fixes for a while but it comes back, at least until the paint wears off.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Yep, that's what I found. Also, the grooves in the Gates belt are continuous and can trap dirt/oil. The Goodyear Gatorback belt has a segmented groove pattern that is "self cleaning".
  • dfiskedfiske Posts: 2
    I had the same problem with my 95 S-10. I found the tan wire w/ black stripe on a wiring harness coming out of the ECM (computer) under the dash on the passenger side. I had to remove the panel under the dash on the passenger side, lower the computer and found it as a loop on the side of the wiring harness. It has a jack you can disconnect.
  • dfiskedfiske Posts: 2
    My idle speed surges intermittantly when in gear. I have changed the throttle position sensor and purge canister solenoid. I think my next step is to clean the idle control valve.
    Any suggestions?
  • jefe63jefe63 Posts: 5
    Carlos, Thank you for your post. My 2000 s-10 blazer had the same exact problem, and after trying your 3 step procedure, It is working right. Sometimes when I am driving tho, all my warning lights will illuminate, or the security light comes on, yet it keeps running. Jeff
  • Anybody have any secrets for replacing upper ball joints. I need to replace the driverside upper ball joint on a 82 jimmy.
  • all of a sudden my turn signal does not work checked the fuse it is good and has power when switched on but the turn signal does nothing when i raise the lever up or down its dead, any suggestion , i havent shecked the turn signal flasher yet
  • my fwd doesnot work and the cvc is leaking i thought i would remove them would this cause any other problems?
  • MY 2001 GMC JIMMY 4.3L
    MY PROBLEM WHEN I START IT IT POPS (BACKFIRES I GUESS YOU WOULD CALL IT) AND A LITTLE SMOKE COMES FROM UNDER HOOD BUT IF PUSH GAS PEDAL ALITTLE WHILE STARTING IT WILL START RIGHT UP RUNS ALITTLE ROUGH FOR ABOUT 30 SECONDS AND THEN RUNS FINE IT DOES IT MORE WHEN IT COOL (FLORIDA) AND IT WILL DO IT WHEN THE ENGINE IS WARM (AFTER DRIVING) SOMETIMES
    THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ANY HELP WITH THIS MATTER

    SMILEY
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    No caps, please!

    To answer your question, this sounds like a classic fuel regulator failure where the regulator is leaking, adding additional fuel into the engine. The additional fuel causes the backfire/hard start, followed by rough idle. Once the excess fuel is burned off, the engine will run normally as it can deal with the small amount of leakage coming in.

    This repair can be performed by a skilled doityourselfer, otherwise needs to be professionally repaired as the regulator is part of the "spider" fuel delivery system in the intake manifold used by the 4.3L and other GM V8 engines. I had this failure on a 6.0L v8, with the exact symptoms you describe.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    This is probably the best write up on GM's CPI fuel system operation and repair I have come across, written for automotive repair students:

    Tomorrow's Technician
  • coolant temp sensor 10.00 part at advance :) :)
  • sender in the take taking a crap . tony
  • 82mustangs@bellsouth.net probabaly heater control switch or a vacum line more like the first.tony
  • try coolant temp sensor 10 part makes injectors run wide open if not working right . tony
  • could be module distribur.
  • Hi
    Sorry about the caps.
    Thanks for the reply
    I will let you know how it turns out
    thanks
  • I have a 2000 Jimmy. Someone was able to break into my truck by jamming something under the door handle while I was shopping. In under 10 mins they cleaned out my car. I don't know if these locks are particularly easy to open, but if you read this, be careful about what you leave in your truck.

    Not repair related, I know, but I wanted to let you other Jimmy owners know.
  • t2mbbct2mbbc Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    My throttle cable broke right at the gas pedal tonight. The pedal went right to the floor without accelerating or springing back. How do you fix that? I can feel the top of the pedal and the cable itself that is no longer connected. I am guessing that I have to replace the cable but I can't find any instructions anywhere. Can you tell me how to replace the cable if that is what I should do?
    Thanks!
  • can any one help my 1998 jimmy has been acting up. i changed acuator acuator cable encoder motor and dash switch. didnt have four wheel drive sometimes untill i changed the dash switch. now it goes into four high and dont want to shift back. any suggestions?
  • hewybohewybo Posts: 10
    bought my 95 last summer -am pleased so far........except - I can't find the dang door lock solenoid by feeling around inside the door! Where the heck is it? I'm thinking back by the door latch mechanism, but cannot be sure. How to remove/replace? :confuse:
  • johngjrjohngjr Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Blazer w/ V6 4.3,the engine has 126K on it. There is a rubbing noise coming from the distributor. With your hand on the distributor, you can feel it while the engine is running. The frequency of the noise increases as the rpm increases. The cap and rotor have been replaced with no change in the noise. Is it the distributor or something more internal with the engine?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,518
    Might be a bearing in the distributor. You might need to pull it to test the play in it and also check the drive for damage.

    MODERATOR

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