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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • punshkapunshka Posts: 20
    What was the outcome of your problem? What you went through, sounds like what we are going through right now! Let me know! Thanks.
  • punshkapunshka Posts: 20
    Right now, we've got everything off of the motor and noticed that there is oil in the lower intake. Could this be a problem? We can't remember if it's supposed too or not, can someone help me out with this? Please, let me know. Thank you
  • punshkapunshka Posts: 20
    Recently we just replaced a bunch of parts on our Blazer. So far, we have, replaced the timing chain, timing chain cover, crank, bearings, oil pan gasket, oil sensor, upper and lower gaskets, oil pump, 2 lifters, rotor cap, modulator, and distributor, distributor cap, and we are still having the same problem. We finally got the timing set and it still jumps and cuts off when turning or braking. We know it needs a new cam, which we're putting on tomorrow, now it has oil in the lower intake. We're not sure if it's supposed too or not. Is the lower intake supposed to have oil in it? Please help us with this issue that we are having. Thank you.
  • punshkapunshka Posts: 20
    Good Morning,

    I have a 95 Blazer 4.3 that we're having major issues with. Right now, there is oil in the lower intake, runs fine for a couple of miles and then starts to act like it wants to cut off, finally, we think it has a bad main bearing and considering that this may be the cause for the cutting out of the vehicle. What do you think? Thank you
  • Just a guess, but check both vacuum and electrical and please let us know what the problems is.
  • punshkapunshka Posts: 20
    Alright, we have checked the vacuum and electrical and still no good. Any other suggestions? Let me know. Thanks.
  • Did you know for sure you were at TDC before you put the timing chain in? If it jumped time and you just replaced the chain, that’s most likely your problem.

    Just from prior knowledge, if the chain had jumped, you may have bent a valve or more and I believe that you must be at exact TDC when you put the timing chain on, if it’s not TDC, you should have asked before putting it together to be sure. If it had jumped time, the valves should have been checked and by the chain jumping, everything could be out of whack.

    I had a Chevy van that I couldn’t keep good time on and brought it to someone to get the chain replaced. He told me there was plenty of life left in the timing chain. On the way home it cut out, so I put it in neutral and revved it up to clear it out and threw the chain. Cost me the price of a rebuilt motor, the over inflated charges he made and then more to check the valves because he didn’t do that when he took the heads of the motor he caused to get screwed up.

    Please post when you do figure this out, as I’d like to know the answer for sure. I’m just going by a couple bad experiences.

    How many miles and how did you determine the timing chain needed to be replaced?

    Probably not related, but when the timing chain jumped on my Toyota pickup at 65 MPH, it was like someone dropped an anchor. Ran great till you hit a certain RPM then cut out big time. If it is cutting out at certain RPM/speed, the timing is probably off.

    Rick
  • Again I'm only guessing, but oil where it's not supposed to be could be a gasket or possibly a valve seal. If you replaced the gasket and tourqued everything to specs, that's all I can think of.

    Had you jumped time before you replaced all the parts?

    Did you have the head checked - all the valves, to see if any were bent. That could cause problems with valve seats.
  • punshkapunshka Posts: 20
    Mr. Rick,

    The reasoning on us replacing the timing chain was due to the oil pump going out and spinning a rod bearing. We replaced the crank, oil pump, oil pressure switch, new timing chain and gears. Sense then, we have been trying to get the timing right. It's almost there!!!! Now we think it may have a main bearing loose and we're going to have to take all of this back off. What fun it should be, especially trying to get the timing back right.
  • skiextreme2skiextreme2 Posts: 30
    edited January 2011
    Pull the spark plugs and it should be easier to find top dead center and see if the timing chain is correct. As I mentioned, if the timing is off, it can cut out after you reach a certain RPM depending on how far off it is.

    If the timing chain is not correct, the distributor will not be correct.

    If the timing chain is correct, possibly the distributor is not inserted correctly.

    How many miles were on the motor before these problems started? Did you check the valves to see if they were bent or check the valve seats to see if they were worn? Also, did you use a new gasket for the intake?

    Did you get smoke from the exhaust when you tried to keep it running.

    If you list everything you've done, step by step it would be better to help you.
  • punshkapunshka Posts: 20
    The reasoning on why it's cutting off is not due to the timing. We've got it TDC and it cranks fine, runs fine, and even brakes fine. Right there at the distributor behind the motor, it starts to smoke and we haven't been able to figure out why or what's causing it? It started acting up like this sense 2 lifters became loose and we also know that we have a bad cam. We are replacing the cam this morning, hoping this will fix the problem. What are your thoughts?
  • Have you replaced the spark plug and coil wires? And the distributor cap and rotor?
  • punshkapunshka Posts: 20
    Spark Plugs: Yes
    Coil Wires: No
    Distributor Cap and Modulator: Yes
    Rotor: Yes
  • skiextreme2skiextreme2 Posts: 30
    edited January 2011
    I don't like to ask someone to spend money, but the spark plug and coil wires can cause skipping.

    Are any of the plug or coil wires touching metal or each other?

    Don't touch the wires when trying to start or while the Blazer is running!
  • punshkapunshka Posts: 20
    Yea, we've replaced all the gaskets and torqued everything down to specs.

    We do have another question, if the upper seal is leaking oil and getting into the lower intake, what kind of problems would you say this would cause, if any?

    We just bought this truck a couple of months ago. We drove it for about 4 months after replacing 1 lifter the day we bought it. Never had a problem out of it until one day we decided to drive down the interstate to go see some friends and that's when we lost oil pressure and slung a rod.

    The head has been checked and everything seemed fine in that area.

    Thank you for all of your help and hopefully we can get this truck running again by the end of today. Knowing my husband he will have me all this thing all day long to make sure what we're doing seems like the right thing too do. I'll let you guys know.
  • punshkapunshka Posts: 20
    The spark plugs are new and the coil wires look almost brand new, so, we didn't replace the coil wires yet.

    None of the plugs or wires are touching each other or metal.

    What else might it be??? God, I hope we get this truck running today.
  • Do you know where the fuel filter is? Check to see if there's anything showing, like water or anything. If that is clean and the plug wires are good, I don't have anything else to suggest. If the distributor is off by even one tooth, that can cause problems.

    As far as the oil in the lower intake, aside from a leak, I have no idea. It's been a long time since I got that far into a motor and I'm just trying to remember possible reasons. Does smoke come out of the exhaust when it runs?

    Does it run at idle?
  • Just for the heck of it, is there supposed to be a gasket under the distributor and was it replaced when everything got put together? I don't know if that would cause smoke, but if oil gets on the manifold it would smoke.
  • punshkapunshka Posts: 20
    Ok, I guess the question I want to ask would be..... would this cause the vehicle to cut off, the motor jump, lose power, and so forth? Maybe we're asking a dumb question, but it's like I tell my husband, I'd rather ask a dumb question, then, not have an answer all together. You know. Let me know what you think. Thanks...
  • I was given a 96 blazer LS because the previous owners were not using it and we desperately need another vehicle. One of the problems was the front brakes. They've been replaced twice and they still squeak. I am curious how you eliminated the problem evidently replacing the pads is not the problem.
  • First question... do they squeak all the time? or ... Just when you are applying the breaks?

    What kind/brand pads are you using? How long did the vehicle sit before you took delivery of it? How many miles are on the vehicle?

    I would advise you to replace all rubber brake lines... if they have not already been changed... Why??? Because… if it is made out of rubber... change it every ten years. I have experienced brake lines failing on the INSIDE... (no visible sign)... and causing damage and the need for replacing many parts in the brake system downstream of the line itself.

    On the brake pads… do yourself a favor… use Bendix… or the best quality pad Advance Auto parts has to offer… I don’t recommend the ceramics… good braking characteristics… but leaves a lot of gray dust on the wheels.

    I have a 96 Blazer... I can tell you just about everything there is to know about what they need as I have done just about everything to it since owning it.

    TJ
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited February 2011
    Next time install ceramic brake pads instead of semi-metallic brake pads.

    The advantage of semi-metallic pads is that they last longer than ceramic and are more fade resistant for better high speed stopping power. The disavantage is they wear the rotors faster, are noisy and creat a lot of oily black brake dust. I have alsways used AC Delco ceramic pads on my 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4. Ceramic brake pads are quiet and do not create rusty-black brake dust that sticks to your wheels, however, they do create a small amount of brake dust but it is not black and it does not stick to the wheels. Ceramic brake pads dampen noise, have good fade resistance and are easy on your rotors, but they wear faster than semi-metallic pads.

    I will install Bendix CT 3 ceramic brake pads next time. I like Bendix CT 3 ceramic pads because I feel like they are just as good as the more expensive AC Delco ceramic brake pads. The use of quiet ceramic pads requires that I must replace them more often but I do not have to replace the rotors.
  • They put new rotors and thermo-quiet brake pads and O2 sensors but have noticed the problem started since they've changed the brakes and pads for inspection. The previous owners are a pair doctors and did not need the vehicle so they let it sit unused for some time till my wife ask about the truck. They said that they never had a problem with the brakes and never had any work done. It has 110k miles and I am amazed that it still drives like a new truck. The problem I am having is when you initially use the truck I have no problems but during the day of stop and go traffic or long distance driving the brakes start to squeak. Then the following day nothing till you drive it all day again. Advance auto suggested that there is a lubricant they you can apply to eliminate the problem, My mechanic is suggesting changing the rotor and brake pads for different ones.
  • Lets review... It has new rotors... new pads... Who did the work?

    I have used Thermo-quiet... .and they are very good. Currently I am using Advance Auto ceramic pads. I have 222220.0 miles on my Blazer. To this date... I have never had to change rotors... not even close to needing changed.

    When a vehicle sits for a long period of time... (over six months), the brakes are going to need some service...

    What I really don’t know... and what I can not know... is exactly... what the noise sounds like. That would help a lot... and your mechanic... if he is good... should be able to tell by the sound... what the problem is. Vibration can cause a squeaking noise. Where the mounting tabs on the pads compresses with channel locks when installed... if not... they are riding loose and could vibrate.

    From time to time... my rear brakes will squeak... when I am leaving the driveway in the morning... (not warmed up yet)... Once they warm up... no more noise... About every six months... I check the rear shoes... (Bendix... they last forever)... usually have to change the front pads twice for every one time I change the rear shoes. During a checkup... I will take some sand paper... 100 grit... and knock the glaze off the shoes... I will then put a large container under the wheel... and use the hose to spray everything clean... then dry with compressed air... or sidewalk blower. Then I check all my lube points.

    What about the rubber brake lines? Where they ever changed? If not... you are running on borrowed time... They will fail... had it happen... they collapsed on the inside... the fluid could not release pressure on the rear wheel cylinders... the brakes stayed engaged... and I burned up both rear drums... shoes... wheel cylinders... and the seals overheated.

    The single rear axle hose had failed... (it cost about 15.00)... but it cost me a lot more to replace everything else. Rubber is good for about ten years... Also... what kind of brake fluid are you running? I would go with the Valvaline Synthetic...

    Let me know what happens...
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited February 2011
    Where I live, the independant repair shops have so much business they can "cherry pick" the cars they will work on. A 1986 - 1995 S10 Blazer is one they will try to avoid. Full service auto repair shops that do state inspections will not inspect a 1986 -1995 S10 Blazer with ABS 4WAL brakes because if there is problems with brakes, they are bound by law to fix the problem. The repair shop can run up a bill on those cars which is three times more than the car is worth. For example, a rebuilt ABS modulator for 4WAL brakes cost $800, if one can be found . When the customer gets the bill, the car owner will say, "keep it" and walk off and abandon the car. I would not trust an independent auto repair shop to check the air in my tires. There is no way to know what parts the repair shop put on your car. I will guarantee, it will be the cheapest parts thay can find to maximize their profits. if a auto repair shop was honest, they would go broke. The best independent auto repair shops are found in small town with a population of less than 15,000. If they rob a customer in a small town, it will all over town in three or four days. Therefore, an auto repair shop in a small town cannot afford to rob a customer because there are so few of them. .

    Rather than trust a buch of crooks at a auto repair shop, I personally replaced my entie brake system, including a new combination valve, master cylinder, new hoses, pads, front brake rotors, front pads, rear shoes and rear brake drums. It took about 5 hours to do all that but it took me and my associate about 10 hours to bleed the brakes with new brake fluid. That was before I found out I needed to use a Tech 1 scan tool to cycle and bleed the ABS modulator before I could bleed the rest of the system. It is nearly inpossible to bleed the 1986 - 1995 version of ABS brakes by foot pumping if you don't have a Tech 1 scan tool. Auto repair shops don't have a Tech 1 scan tool because those things cost from $800 to $1500 and a shop will not invest that much money in a tool that they may only use once a year. They just tell a customer with a 1986-1995 S10 Blazer..."Take it somewhere else".

    I will see in my lifetime when automobile technology will put all the independent auto repair shops out of business. Who will be able to afford to repair or maintain an automobile that is out of dealer warranty??
  • Hi I have a 97 Jimmy and I just put a new alternator, battery, fuel pump into the truck. Its having trouble firing up in cold weather. It gets to the point where it starts hiccuping like its about to fire up but then stops... It starts in warmer weather and if I do get it started it takes a bit for me to get going when i step on the gas. Could someone help me???
  • Hi
    I had the same problem ...It was the fuel pressure regulator ;)
  • I dont know anything about cars. Is that part expensive to replace?
  • skiextreme2skiextreme2 Posts: 30
    edited February 2011
    If you've tried starting fluid and that didn't work, when's the last time your distributor cap, rotor and plug wires were replaced?

    Check the cap for corrosion, but if it hasn't been replaced in a few years, it's probably time.

    When the cap fails, the vehicle won't start. It might seem like it wants to start but won't. Plug wires last for a long time, but if they are bad, just as a bad distributor cap, they can work on and off.

    If you've tried starting fluid one time and that didn't work, go for the cap. If you get it running and you get very high idle, email me and I'll explain what happened to me.

    Rick
  • Does anyone know what the service life span of the ignition coil should be? In other words... If there is 225,000 miles on the vehicle... would it be wise to change the ignition coil?

    My concern... I noticed smoke... coming out the back... during hard acceleration the other NIGHT... from onramp getting on the interstate. Changed 60K miles ago… Wires-AC Delco, Plugs- Bosch Titanium, Cap/Rotor-Jacobs Electronics but has aluminum contacts… changing out this weekend for AutoZone Gold Set with brass contacts $59.99. Searched the internet... best deal I could find.

    Thank you in advance for any info on this subject.

    TJ
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