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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • ok i did check the fuses except the metal boxed ones. i suppose those are called relays? i will check the with a multimeter. ps will be a few days till i get back to it. as i am a desiel dummy( truck driver) and on the road right now thanks
  • It is likely that the pump is dead. However, you may be able to access the electrical plugs on top of the tank if the spare is out of the way. Make sure the connections are good before dropping the tank. I found using a motorcycle jack is a nice way to support and lower the tank.
  • csf2csf2 Posts: 1
    4x4 02 Chevy Blazer had service engine lite on 69k miles. Chevy repair shop replaced upper/low ball joints, idler pitman arms. Said thermostat stuck open, waterpump leaking all repaired.
    Blazer now rocks side to side (like wave motion)whenever it hits a bump or road irregularity (ie always). Took back to repairshop-they said drives normal and w/in specs.
    Possible cause? Any help appreciated and thanks.
  • 1993 s-10 blazer voretc 4.3 will not stay running inless i feed it gas through intake.Has newer fuel pump, spider injector,bothsend &return lines.I disconected the lines gas flows good.What eles is there?
  • Hello, my name is TJ. Did you find a reason for the Check Engine Soon light coming on?
  • Hi, my name is TJ, I have a 96 LS. Were you able to correct hard brake pedal problem?
  • i am fighting the same problem with a 1993 jimmy with the 4.3 votec. what did you find to be the problem with it. i have replace the fuel pump, filter, plugs wires, distributor, cap, rotor, coil, used ecm and put a used fuel presure regulator on the orginal fuel injector/spider assembly. it runs fine and doesnt miss but dies at idle when warmed up. i am stumped!! please help :sick:
  • My 1995 Chevy S-10 Blazer will not go into 4WD. The 4WD is electonic with a button for 2H, 4H, and 4L. When you hit the 4H button, the light comes on and you can hear the relay in the control module in the dash activate. I can also hear the tranfer case motor engage. The drive shaft to the front differential is also engaged. I have replaced the vacuum switch on top of the transfer case (ball inside was sticking). I am not getting vacuum to the vacuum diaphram actuator located under the battery tray. This is what engages the 4WD. I have checked all vacuum hoses for breaks or kinks. Where does the vacuum hose go after it leaves the actuator? It appears to go in behind the motor on the back leftside as you face the motor, but cannot see where it connects. Does anyone have or know where I can get electrical and vacuum diagrams of the 4WD system?
    Are there any other items that can be checked? Thanks.
  • I still havnt got fixed yet.Nobody seems to know.Will reply when i find out something. Sorry still hopping on a answer :(
  • My 93 4x4 did the same had to replace front differential.(junk yard ). New one cost over $2000. $250 fixed mine. But im not a professional.Not sure were vaccum line goes my self. Sorry.
  • I'm wondering if you could hook up vacuum temporarily to that actuator to see what happens. You could hook up a vacuum line to a known vacuum source and use an aquarium valve to turn it on and off in the passenger compartment. A bit of a hassle but it would tell you the problem area.
  • hi you are right it does go in the back of the motor on the left as you look at the motor.get up on the motor and you will see it.also get someone to engage the 4x4 while you put your hand under the battery tray and see if the pump does work you will feel it moving if it does the transfercase motor is not working i had to change mine
  • get them made at a hydraulic shop like i did they will never burst again it cost me about 250 dollars but its worth it never had a problem again.
  • I have a 79 K5 with a 9 in lift with 37 in tires. I get less then 8 miles to the gallon and a friend of mine has the same exact truck and lift and he gets 15 miles to the gallon. What is my problem? I have a new throttle body,carburator, and air filter. Just changed all the fluids but nothing seems to help it.
  • You might want to get your gears checked out. The only thing i can think of is since you put a lift and a little bigger tires it can slowly wear the gears down so you might want to get the gears checked out see if the pumpkin has any metal shavings from the ring and pinon. As for the heat check the connection between the wire and the fan. Mine use to do that until i got a new wire. And if its not that then its the fan the reason it work when your driving is cause the fan moves when you drive when you don't drive it stays still. Does it stop working when your at a light or stopped.
  • I hooked up a vacuum source to the actuator under the battery and when I put it in 4wd the front wheels engaged like they should. That tells me that the transfer case and switching are o.k. I have traced the vacuum hoses but cannot see any breaks or cracks. Do you know where the original source for the vacuum connects? The only other part that I see that has a vacuum hose connected to it (other than the transfer case switch with 3 vacuum hoses and the actuator under the battery) is a switch mounted on the passenger's side fender beside the battery. This same switch also has an electrical connector to it (vacuum hose at one end, electrical connector at the other). Would you know what know what this switch is used for? Thanks.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    I am posting this for anyone who wants to add RKE to a late model Blazer/Jimmy.

    If your glove box RPO label does not show AU0 on the codes, you do not have remote keyless entry from the factory.

    Now, the good news.

    Used RKE receivers are available (cheap) online. I got mine on eBay from s10warehouse for $15 including shipping. It installs on the backside of the panel above the parking brake pedal, and the wiring harness is already there. Takes about 5 minutes to install.

    Now for the fun part. You MUST have a GM dealer enable the module. My dealer had never done this before, so I figured it would be good to share the knowlege.

    The technician will need to download the BCM (body control module) software into a TechII programmer and transfer the information to the shop computer. Then, you scroll down through the list of details till you get to "Equipped with RKE" or something like that. It will show "NO". The tech just toggled this to "YES", saved the data back into the Tech II, and reloaded the program into the vehicle BCM.

    That's it, now the vehicle knows the module is there. I wanted to be as specific as I could on this because dealers generally have never heard of this procedure. They regularly re-program key fobs, or add key fobs, but telling a car that was built without RKE that it now has it, is just not something they often do, if ever.

    FOB programming varies somewhat from model to model, but if you check
    you will probably find what you need. There is a company advertising on their website called I bought my key fobs from them, the prices were the cheapest I found, and delivery was quick, and new product.

    I don't work for any of the companies mentioned here, nor do I know anybody at the companies. But I had really good support and delivery and thought I would share the experience.

  • I have a 96 LS... 182K miles... I have changed the spark plugs twice... I had no trouble changing this plug... I used a box end wrench. I will take a pic and post sometime soon.

  • does anyone know where the heater core is located on a 96 jimmy and how to access it. i have half the dash apart and starting under the hood? help
  • sir do you know anything about the heater core? mine is leaking into the passanger side floor boards
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