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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    If when one of the low beams went out, the support for the filament shorted against the other filament support, I could see you having a low resistance short, blowing the fuse. The filament itself has some resistance, the support wires do not.

    I had a car where both low beams failed at the same time. I thought it was odd, and asked a trusted mechanic. Being a logical southern boy, he just looked at me and answered, "Why shouldn't they both go at the same time? They was put in at the same time, wasn't they?"

    Kind of hard to argue with that logic.
  • I just had my ignition switch replaced to get rid of the shift solenoid problem. The transmission is newly rebuilt. The problem comes after about 20 mins of driving it goes back into safe mode. The shop says that there is no problem since they do not drive it far enough for the problem to occur. Since the ignition switch is not the problem i am wondering what else it could be. The tranny works fine for those 20 mins.
  • What was the problem?
  • enzaneenzane Posts: 1
    i have a 1992 chevy blazer just bought it the people i got it from said they changed the fuel filter and fuel pump but when i drive the vehicle i studders when i drive like its not getting fuel to the engine sometimes it drives fine when it does mess up if i put it in neutral then shut truck off then start and drive again it works for a little while what doe you think it could be
  • singramsingram Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 2 door Chevy blazer and the rear hatch will not open. When you press the release button I can hear a noise like it wants to open but nothing happens. I was hoping someone would be able to give me some advice on what to troubleshoot since I am in the middle of moving and can not afford to take it to the dealer at this time. It would also make my move a lot easier if I could get that hatch open. Thanks.
  • Have you tried pushing to close it and re-opening it several times? And cycling the ignition once between try's? I had a similar problem with a different vehicle and all that I can think of is that it was a little stuck from non-use. Once I got it to work, it was fine.
    You could always call a dealer and ask.
  • tjh5479tjh5479 Posts: 6
    Is it an electric rear hatch? I had the samething happen because I backed into something but mine was electric. When I pressed the button, I could hear the motor moving, but didn't open. I took the inside panel off the gate and found that I had bent a small arm that the motor moves so it was not hitting the latch. I bent it back and it worked fine. Good luck.
  • tjh5479tjh5479 Posts: 6
    Cheap part, try replacing the fuel pump relay or cleaning the contacts? Is your check engine light on?
  • Hi... I attempted to respond earlier in the week... but this site was down. I had the same situation with my 96. There is a small lever, made out of plastic, that connects the servo to the actual release mechanism. You can not purchase just the plastic part (I have great digital photos of this part). You have two options... you can fix the part... using a paper clip, or you can go to the salvage yard... and look for one. It is easy to fix or replace... once you get the cover off the door. Opening the door is not so easy... but there is a place under the carpet near the latch that you have access to the lever. Use a screwdriver to trip the lever.

    I hope this helps... TJ
  • alesi64alesi64 Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I just fixed a friends 99 blazer that sounds like it had the same problem. Old fuel pump died and she had someone install a new pump and also a new filter. Then it began to run/studder like yours.

    It took me a while to figure out but here was the fix for her car (runs great now). The new filter that she had installed was the wrong one. Looks identical to the correct filter but either Autozone or the mechanic messed up. the in flow direction and outflow was reversed on the new filter. I found the correct filter, replaced it, and now the car runs fine.

    Crazy, but check your filter and make sure the outflow (should be stamped on the metal "OUT" is pointing toward the engine. I saw the old/incorrect filter and the new filter side by side and they look identical except the flow direction "OUT" was reversed. I think GM may have changed the guts inside the filter and may have a one way valve in the filter that is starving the engine if the wrong one is used.

    Hope that helps.

    Dan
  • jefforybjefforyb Posts: 2
    Hey -
    I have tried everything to open my hatchback;
    I tried the push button inside the car;
    I tried opening it with the key outside the car,
    and I even tried manually to open it but to no
    avail.
    It just won't open; I even checked the fuses.
    What to do; do anybody know?
    --jefforyb-- :cry:
  • Yes the engine light is on.
  • jefforybjefforyb Posts: 2
    No. There are no lights on the dashboard at all.
    The only lights that comes on are the ones when
    I start the engine :cry: .
  • jbrown13jbrown13 Posts: 1
    just bought my 2001 blazer and love it so far except for the pesky severice engine light that came on the second day. the code is po410 something about the secondary air injection system fault has anyone had this problem and if so how do i fix it thanks for the info
  • pawlakjlpawlakjl Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 GMC Jimmy - It has been in the shop all winter for problems with the blower not changing to defrost or the floor properly. I can get hot air to blow at my face until I am sunburnt but I can not get it to change to any other setting. I can not seem to find anyone to figure out what hte problem is. One mechanic said it was the vaccum hose and he replaced it said it was fixed BUT it was NOT. I really can't afford to take it to the Dealer. You know I would pay a lot of money and I don't want to spend that kind of money on an older vehicle. Please any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also, I smell antifreeze in the car when the blower is going. I understand the heater core needs to be replaced. Is it really a difficult job or is it just time consuming since the dash has to come out. Also what about a manifold intake gasket? Hard job or what?
  • frankkfffrankkff Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how to check the fluid in the rear differential of a 2001 Chev Blazer. I was attempting to drain the grease and replace with synthetic grease but I can not see either drain plug or fill plug.
    Anyone have advice?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Generally, you pull the rear plate and clean out the differential. Put on a fresh gasket and bolt it back up. The add fluid until the level is even with the bottom of the one hole on the side and you are done.

    The plug is just above midline of the differential, on the passengers side.

    You can get a suction draw and get the fluid out that way, but you won't get all the fluid, and you won't get the small amount of metal out of the bottom of the diff.

    Jim
  • Your blower issue should have been an easy fix... even for a dealership... and they would have had the right part. Sometimes it is best to go to the dealership... they have had experience with these issues... yes you might pay more... but better in the long run. The motor... electrical... that drives the diverter door... up for defrost... down for floor heat... is either dead... or the switch is messed up... or there could be a simple hardware issue... like a broken lever attached to the electric motor and the door. See if you can hear something moving... near the center hump... and on the driver side... when you turn the selection knob. If you hear something... then chances are the motor is working... but the diverter door is not moving. Most likely... the issue is with the control switch... I believe the motor functions very well.

    I hope this helps... TJ
  • jakedog1jakedog1 Posts: 1
    Have a ruptured fuel line I'm trying to replace....Is there a trick to the fittings on the fuel lines or is a specialty tool required?
    Also, what is the black box at the rear drivers side that two fuel lines run into? I know its not the pump.

    Thanks
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Some of the fuel line connections require a special tool. Your auto parts store may have one that they loan out.

    The little box at the back is the evaporative emissions charcoal canister. Filters the fumes from the tank and fuel injection.
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