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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    Thanks for comments on my Blazer idle speed. Can't really set the idle speed as the computer program controls this. If the 5.3 also idles this slow maybe this is the correct rpm. Be due for an oil change next month and I'll ask the dealer tech about this. This particular dealer has some people who seem to know something about cars.
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    My Blazer seems to idle around 550 rpms too, but runs fine at that speed. I suspect you have dirty fuel injectors. I would run injector cleaner through it for a few tanks.
  • I have a 1995 Chevrolet Blazer LT 4x4 4-Door. I'm driving last night and I notice the oil pressure gauge is reading only 40PSI. Thats funny I think to myself, its normally at 60-70PSI . Well then the oil pressure drops to 0, then back up to 40, and then 0 again. By the time it was hitting 0 for the second time I had already turned on to a side street & was just shutting her down. I pull off to the side, pop the hood, & get out to have a look. Well by the time I get out I notice about 3quarts of oil already on the ground. I pop the hood and I notice that my engine compartment (which was spotless previously) is covered in new engine oil. I look down and begin to see the oil drip out even more, starting to get onto my shoes. Well I hop back in and call Chevrolet Roadside Assistance. I get a tow, but now it's stuck at a dealership, I think it is the dreaded oil cooling lines.

    Anyone have any advice for me?

    Thanks,

    Joe
  • I had a bad creak from the driver's door. The creak started after the dealer replaced the window regulator. After trying many things, I found it to be the bolts where it connects the front of the window frame in the front of the door. I put paper and plastic washers between the connection, but the creaking started back up in about 2 weeks time. I ended up giving the front window frame guide a very slight bend with a large pliers. It has been quite for over a month now.
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    My door is still has a creak. Where did you bend the front window guide? Did you bend the guide or the bracket? I have taken the front door panel off twice now for this noise. Do you have to remove the panel to do this?
  • mrchwmrchw Posts: 2
    anyone have an issue with a sticky accelerator? for the past few weeks it's been getting pretty bad, lurching out of parking spaces is getting a little dangerous!

    99 with 44K miles....
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    sounds like its the throttle body. Did you have it cleaned around 30K? Might be a good idea.
  • The Service Manual for the 4.3 liter V6 expects a scan tool idle reading of 650 RPM. This desired reading is with the engine at operating temperature, engine idling in closed loop (full computer control), closed throttle, accessories off, and transmission in park or neutral. The VCM (Vehicle Control Module) primarily maintains the engine's idle speed through postioning commands to the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. A faulty IAC valve or a build-up of deposits on the valve's pintle can degrade idle performance. Since crankcase ventilation passes oil vapor into the intake air, the IAC valve and throttle plate are prone to the accumulation of deposits.
  • To all of you thinking about purchasing a Chevrolet Blazer of the 1999 vintage: D O N' T...
    I have owned mine since February of 2000. Below list shows the problems that I have encountered so far:
    1. left front pinion seal: replaced twice
    warranty repairs.
    2. fuel sending unit-warranty repair
    3. fuel gauge-warranty repair
    4. oil cooler lines: replaced both lines twice
    warranty repair first time,
    second time out of pocket $$
    5. intake manifold gasket replaced-out of warranty
    6. dead battery: warranty repair

    This is all that I can remember at this time. I am sure that if I think hard enough that I will remember additional things that I have had to get fixed. The last repair occurred last week when I needed the oil cooler lines replaced for the second time within 18 months. There is a 12 month warranty on GM parts so I was forced to pay for the second round of replacement lines. This is the BIGGEST piece of American made junk ever created. Please stay away from this vehicle if you are thinking about a purchase. My personal opinion is that if you haven't had any of these problems so far; you will at some time in the future.
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    I had a problem with my 96 Jimmy not delivering enough heat in the cabin. I think the problem started a couple of years ago. After changing the thermostat to no avail I decided it was time for the 5 year change of dexcool. I flushed out the cooling system and even took the heater hoses off the engine and flushed the heater core with a garden hose. I noticed a lot of slime and crud come out of the heater core. Now the heat works wonderful, but I notice a coolant smell anytime the heater is on. I can't find a leak anywhere. Is it possible that flushing the heater core "unplugged" some pin holes and now it is leaking enough to smell, but not enough to see on the floor? Is there any way to leak test the core without taking the dash apart?
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    Why did you need to have the intake manifold gasket replaced? Was it leaking coolant?
  • zr2randozr2rando Posts: 391
    I have a 99 S10 ZR2 P/U that also HAD a sticky accelerator..
    Look at the accelerator cable connector at the throttle body on top of the motor, you will see the lever that you can move with your finger as if you wanted to rev the motor while standing by the engine. It seems to have a magnetic connection where that lever touches the mechanical stop, that magnetic connection made the lever "sticky". I put a piece of electrical tape over the stop so it was no longer a metal/metal contact, now I don't sometimes "jump" out of a parking place like it used to want to do
    Hope this helps
    Rando
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    As you suspect the heater core may have a leak.

    You are leak testing the heater core every time to run the vehicle up to normal operating temperature and pressure. Are you losing engine coolant?
  • I have had my 99 Blazer for two years and the push buttons to change from (2HI) to (4HI) or (4LO) or (auto4WD).(4HI) only blinks and the light never stays solid --but it seems to be in (4HI)or (4LO) but it just keeps blinking(they will blink for as long as I pushed (4HI)or (4LO)-- until I push (2HI)again- and I'm back in (2HI). No other things wrong just the blinking for (4HI) or (4LO)when pushed.When I push the (auto4WD) button it will blink for a while then just go back to (2HI)by itself. They stop blinking when I push (2HI) and its solid and I'm in (2HI)..
    Any comments would be appreciated.
    tomgregory@lisco.com
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    Thanks for the feedback. I have since confirmed that the heater core is leaking and have an appointment to have it replaced. The best price I could find was $420. They all say it is a long and difficult procedure because the dash has to be removed. I have talked to several mechanics who say the problem is the GM dexcool. After surfing the net looking for dexcool I tend to agree there are some issues here. I complained to my GMC dealer, but he could only provide sympathy. I have a suggestion for everyone with GM vehicles about 96 and later: don't wait for 5 years to flush the cooling system. I suggest 2-3.
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    As I emailed to tgregory3, his encoder needs to be replaced
  • revkerrevker Posts: 33
    Hello all. I've got 2 '98 Blazers, 4x4 LS and LT. I pull a 4500lb boat w/trailer. both trucks have just about 70K miles. I am just changing the brake pads for the first time since owning it. problem i'm having is that i can't take off the rear brake rotor. the brake rotor has a score and i'd like to have it resurfaced at autozone. i've got 4 wheel disc brakes. the rear brake rotor is the drum type. i just can't pull it off like the ones in the front. i'm thinking maybe the parking brake is holding it. i tried tapping it with a mallet lightly but it's the same thing. is there something i'missed? calipers are already off the hub. anyone have done this before? any input on this matter is greatly appreciated. thanks.
  • Since you have 70K miles on the vehicle and this is the first time you are attempting to remove the rear rotors, I suspect your primary problem is adhesion between the rotor and axle flange mating areas. Debris and rust will create a seal between the mating surfaces. I suggest you apply a bead of penetrating oil to the center hub area of the rotor where it contacts the axle flange. Careful tapping of the area with a small hammer to create a vibration wave should dislodge the adhesion (no heavy pounding; the vibration not brute force is the key - the rotor metal is brittle at certain points). Slowly turn the rotor as you pull it from the axle flange. This should also help to break the bond between the rotor and the flange. So that nothing is overlooked, I assume you have removed the any sheet metal retainers on the wheel lugs. These are installed at the factory and must be clipped off before you can remove the rotor. Also, I assume the parking brake is fully disengaged. Since you use your vehicle for towing, I would be extra careful to be sure the score in your rotor can be removed by the brake lathe without cutting off an excessive amount of the rotor width. While there is a minimum width specification, I would not want to get to that point and rely on it for demanding brake service. As a point of precaution, do not attempt to pry the rotor from the flange. It can damage the rotor beyond repair. Good luck!
  • revkerrevker Posts: 33
    thanks for the detailed input. i will try doing that tonight. hopefully i'll succeed. i'll use WD-40 since i've got that in the garage. what you're saying makes sense because i can rattle the rotor in and out by about 8th of an inch. it seems like something is holding it from just sliding out. i'll use a hammer instead of a mallet this time to create a vibration. any idea what would be my other option if the rotor still won't budge? thanks again!
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    Since you can move the drum about an 1/8 then it is a rim of corrosion holding it on.

    For drum brakes there is an adjuster that keeps the shoes out near the surface of the drum to compensate for wear of the brake shoe. There usually is a small oval cut out behind the brake housing that has a rubber plug in it. A special bent sdcrew driver type tool is used to back the adjuster off which brings the shoes in toward the axle and then the drum will slide off.
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