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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    Thanks, TB. I wasn't paying attention.
    For those of you that have been there-is there a recall for the wipers cutting out in mid stroke, then starting up again (so far) as well as sometimes not coming on at all unless you hit a bump? I know lots of you mentioned this, but I was wondering if anyone did the repair themself or had it covered out of warranty? Thanks.
    ¿spoom
  • tbcreativetbcreative Posts: 357
    No problem, spoom. I've almost done it myself...
  • rangerron7rangerron7 Posts: 317
    Yes there is a recall or TSB depending on the year of Blazer. I complained for 2 and 1/2 years regarding the problem on my '95 and the dealer could never replicate the problem. About 9 months after I got rid of the beast, I read on these boards that Chevy issued a recall or TSB advising replacing the wiper motor.
    Can someone who had it fixed under the recall/TSB help Spoom out?
    Ron
  • dwsiisdwsiis Posts: 16
    I replaced mine myself. The local dealer said I missed the recall. It took less than 10 minutes to repair. The board cost around $65.00 I believe.
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    Were your symptoms the same as mine? Did the new board take care of it and where is it located? (Mine sometimes won't come on at all, but can usually be started by hitting the "mist" paddle switch as you hit a good bump. The mid stroke stop/start just started.)
    Thanks.
    ¿spoom
  • blaatandblaatand Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I'm hoping someone can offer up some helpful suggestions. I own a 96 Blazer, 4 DR, with about 88k miles on it. Recently, the front end seems to have problems. Basically, when I brake, or just randomly, the vehicle will jerk itself one way or the other. It's quite an unpleasant experience and I'm afraid it is the sign of bad things to come. A transmission guy took a casual look and said it looked like the car bottomed out a few times. There were these rubber things underneath the front that looked ripped. And my the interior of the rim of my left front tire is very shiny and polished while all the others have accumulated normal dirt and such. I'm wondering if anyone has experienced similar steering/front end problems or could suggest a possible cause. Thanks a ton for any help you can offer me.
  • dwsiisdwsiis Posts: 16
    Look under the hood where the wires plug into the wiper motor. That is the location. get the board and the rest is self explanitory. I think there is 3 screws. Mine would work sometimes and not others. never seemed to want to stay running when it was raining. Very common problem.
  • My advice is to stop driving your Blazer. The rubber things you refer to are the jounce bumpers on the frame? There are also rubber boots around the upper and lower ball joints. If wheel contact has been made with the A-arm , then you probably have a separated ball joint... NOT GOOD. Get it replaced immediately. Your steering is very sloppy, too?
  • zonkzonk Posts: 208
    I have lurked around this group for a while as well as the Trailblazer Boards. My wife and I had a leased 97 Blazer LS 4 door and returned it to the dealer at end of a 3 year lease. We both really liked it; it only had one problem in the 3 years we had it (cargo light remained on over night, maybe longer, and ran the battery down). Engine (pickup/passing/good mileage)was great for our purposes. We leased a Jeep GC for our next vehicle, because the Chevy dealer wouldn't be more competitive on leasing a new SUV. Well, we will be turning in the JGC soon, and my wife wants to go back to a Blazer.
    So, finally, I get to my questions. Is there going to be a 2003 Blazer? Were the quality problems I have seen on this board addressed in the 2002 Blazer? Or, should we move up to a TB (of course, the TB has had its own problems)? As I said, we really had a good experience with our Blazer, and are simply overwhelmed at all the problems some have had. Anyway, we appreciate any feedback.
  • tbcreativetbcreative Posts: 357
    My understanding is that Chevy will be phasing out the Blazers by the end of the year. It will be especially sad to see the ZR2 go away. I think it's a big mistake on GM's part to not offer a replacement for it. I think they're answer will be in one of the versions of the S-10 replacement, the Colorado, or the Warrior (I know, stupid name), but it won't be in an SUV form.

    I have a '98 GMC Jimmy 4-Door 4x4, and while over-all I love my truck, I have had intermittent problems that have been irritating enough that my next vehicle will most likely be the all-new 4Runner coming in September. I really like the new Trailblazer and Envoy, but I actually take my truck off-road, and the lower ground clearance of the new GM replacements is prohibitive of any fun terrain. My uncle has a new Trailblazer, and my dad has a new Envoy, and they both love theirs, but they don't do the off-roading that I do. If that's not your concern either, then I would HIGHLY recommend the new TB. I went to the GM Truck Show in Motion program last year, where you drive all the GM vehicles and the competition on a straight-away and mild off-road course, and the TB/Envoy ruled both. If they made a ZR2-type version in 4-doors for the Trailblazer, I would have a hard time choosing between it and the new 4Runner when it comes out. I am a GM loyalist, and GM just got #3 in quality, 3rd to Toyota and Honda, but my irritations with quality on my truck may cause Toyota to win out either way.

    Are there any other vehicles you and your wife are looking at, like the Toyota Highlander or Honda Pilot? Or, are you planning on sticking with GM?
  • wpalmerwpalmer Posts: 2
    Experienced this same wiper problem with my '97 Jimmy. Solved it by repairing my harness connection for the wipers. Sometimes quick snap connections used for fast assembly production are not that solid.
  • zonkzonk Posts: 208
    Well, since I found out that my wife really would have preferred to stick with a Blazer upon lease renewal, I think we are going to be leaning heavily to Chevy. I wish she had said something to me at the time, but with the monthly payment about $25-30 less with JGC, she agreed that the Jeep was the way to go. But I have learned my lesson, I hope.
    We won't be doing any off-roading so clearance is not a problem. And from what I have seen on the specs for the ground clearances for the Blazer and TB, they are just about the same, which helps her to get in the vehicle.
    I have driven a fiend's Toyota 4Runner, and, surprisingly, was not really impressed. His had several squeaks, the seats weren't real comfortable, and the tires were horribly loud on the interstate. I can't remember but it also seems that the acceleration wasn't too hot, either. I have just seen the ads for the Pilot; it might be something to look at, but my wife is going to be very insistent on Chevy, I think.
  • tbcreativetbcreative Posts: 357
    Yeah, the ground clearance underneath is pretty close to the same, but Chevy lowered the rocker panels, so getting in and out is much easier in the Trailblazer, but a hindrance when off-roading. Since that's not a concern for you, I would definitely take advantage of the GM deals going on and get one, if your wife likes it. It's such a HUGE improvement over the Blazer and my truck.

    I would definitely give the Pilot a look. I drove one and fell in love with it! If it had 4Lo, I'd give it serious consideration against the '03 4Runner. If someone wants a 3rd row seat, this one's a class leader, and the Pilot is so much better looking than the Trailblazer EXT or Envoy XL.

    As far as the 4Runner, power and age are the reasons I'm waiting for the ALL-NEW 4Runner, based on the totally new platform shared with the '03 Lexus GX470, coming this fall. I haven't been very impressed with the current one either. But the 2003 is going to be a fantastic vehicle from what I gather from inside sources.
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    The Blazer will be around for 2003, but only the 4dr version. Has the quality improved? I am not sure, my 99 was not very good when new, but has only cost me a water pump since 3/36,000. My Blazer currently has 70k. One thing that I don't understand is why there is only 464 posts on this thread. GM sold a ton off Blazer/Jimmy mid size SUVs (way more than Toyota or Nissan) and there are very few postings for the amount of SUVs sold in the past few years. Is it possible that only a few had problems? We are talking millions of SUVs since 1995.

    I have tracked my gas mileage for the last 50k miles and it has been 18.23 mpg. That includes all off roading (beach driving about 45 trips, mountain trails about 40 trips, each trip about a half day long), all 4x4 winter driving (about 2000 miles total in 4x4), and winter remote start idle for 10 minutes each morning, and all towing (4 trips- each 500 miles with about 5000 lbs), and very high speed (to the speed limiter in many cases) highway driving. I have found that you can set the cruise control higher than the computer limited top speed!!

    It consistently runs 7.8 sec to 7.85 sec 0 to 60 according to my Gtech meter. I am not sure why it runs this good because my Silverado 4x4 with the same engine (and same gearing) runs 9.05 sec 0 to 60 and only weighs a few hundreds pounds more.

    Ground clearance has been a problem off road and the factory skid plate package shows many scrapes (a bargain for about $100). On the beach with 5 people, coolers, grill, chairs, ect., this SUV bottoms on the gas tank skid plate over and over during hard driving on the trials in the dunes.
  • rangerron7rangerron7 Posts: 317
    I had a 95 and it was the second worst/problematic vehicle I owned and it was serviced per the book.
    Of course, I'm just one owner with a bad experience and my experience is statistically insignificant. The 95 Blazer was the last of 4 GM vehicles that I owned in a row but will be the last GM that I buy. The problems coupled with the inept and apathetic dealer response left a bad taste.
    Just my opinion (please no flames)
    Ron
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    I'll give that a look-see. I'm not at work right now because...............you guessed it more '97 Jimmy trouble. Darndest thing yet: 4:30
    AM - I turn the key, courtesy light goes off per normal, dash lights etc. go on for a millisecond and then darkness and silence.
    Everything is completly dead and I CAN'T GET THE KEY BACK OUT!!!! Apparently the theft circuit has some need for power to get
    the key back? Key will go from start to on to off, but not acc or key release. No electrical anywhere including dome light. Starter
    relay doesn't click. No headlights. I head for the house, call off work, and go back to bed. Go out to look at it at 7AM, same thing but
    since it's light out I take a look at it better. Fuses are ok as expected, so I pop the hood and head for the fusible links. They are ok
    too. At this point I notice that the under-hood courtesy lamp is on. I open the front door and the dome lights come on the chime tells
    me that I've left my keys in the ignition (like I didn't already know that!!!) I turn the key at it starts up and my clock informs me it's
    1:00. A cheap VCR would flash 12:00 but GMC's are professional grade so I just get 1:00. It's not raining, so I don't need wipers. I
    just filled the tank so the gauge is working. The "service soon" light seems to be taking the month of June off. Might be time to try
    and trade it in. It does seem strange that there are relatively few posts in this heading for the amount of them on the road considering we see the same problems over and over, and the Consumer Reports ratings are awful.
    Thanks for letting me vent.
    ¿spoom
  • tbcreativetbcreative Posts: 357
    I hear 'ya! Do I smell a new truck in your near future?

    ;o) -TB
  • loricrowloricrow Posts: 3
    I just purchased a 1996 Chevy LS Blazer with 93,000 miles for $8200 on Thursday night and on Saturday I took it back to the sales lot to have the following items looked at thinking they were just minor problems:

    1) No cold air coming from air conditioner(didn't even try heater)thought it just needed to be charged and I have green coolant not the orange dex-cool
    2) Clunking noising in the front end while turning, thought there was a problem because this is a 6 cylinder and there is a hutch on the back, I was thinking they may have pulled something to big for the 6
    3) What I taught was alignment problem-pulling to the right(already told me they would not fix alignment problems)
    4) Driver side mirror shaking
    5) Passager mirror broken-glue separated

    Now after reading the message board it seems that all of these "problems" are not minor but major ones. I purchased a 2 year "protection service contract" and I thought a few of the items list above would end up being fixed through that but I went back and read the fine print and it claims it will not cover:
    1) Mechanical breakdown by engine sludge, rust or residue
    2) Failure by corrosion in the radiator or heater core
    and alot of other fine print things that are listed on the board that will not be covered. I did run a carfax before I had bought this car and it shows a few recalls items but mostly not the ones talked about on this board. I am suppose to pick my car up in a few days, they gave me back my trade-in to drive till then. I dont have a warranty from the sales lot because they would not give me one, they said because I purchased service plan and from what I can tell I do not have a "cooling off" time allowance so I cant return the car.
    Would anyone like to make any suggest to me on what I should do before I go back to the sales lot and blow my temper, which will get me now where? If there is a recall for something that ends up being wrong on my car right now can I return it to the sales lot or can I have it fixed thought the recall system now? Please someone help me with some answers or suggest, right now I am feeling like the biggest "Dumb Blonde"that ever lived.
    Thank you!
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,562
    You sound pretty savvy to me.

    Sludge generally results from ignoring oil & filter changes. Not sure about the heater core, but maybe routine radiator flushing will keep you safe on that one.

    A dealer can pull up maintenance records and verify if the needed recalls have been done (and maybe the oil and antifreeze changes). If not, they should fix the recalls free, even though you aren't the original owner. NHTSA recall FAQ.

    I'd just plug away on the other problems and get fixed what I could under the "protection service contract." The owners here can help you with the rest. Sounds like you got a good price on it too. Good luck.

    Steve
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  • loricrowloricrow Posts: 3
    Thank you for answer me, truthfully I have still been researching and I DONT WANT THE TRUCK!!!! This is what I was getting a way from by buy a different car, I have been learning how and repairing my 1984 Z28 for the last 2 years and Im tired of having man hands(oil under the nails. Since I have may old car(not the pink slip any more), they have the blazer and the check has not been cashed at the bank, if I stop payment on Monday and kept my car because I fell they sold me a car with something wrong with it and I did tell them about the air before I signed papers and they gave me a "due bill" to charge the air but it says on it "no work promised nor implied. Would I have a leg to stand on and would I be able to get my pink slip back. They are saying that it pass some kind of test with their mechanic, this would be impossible, considering I knew something was wrong the night I took it off the lot. Thanks again for any words of advise from you or anyone else. :) Lori
  • If it hasn't been too many days since you got the SUV, I believe that you can reject acceptance of it under the Uniform Commercial Code (UCC) and undo the transaction.

    You may want to speak with a lawyer and see what they suggest
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,562
    Well, I can think of a few problems :-). You may have your old car, but do you have title? Chances are you signed it over to the dealer already.

    The dealer is going to yell buyer's remorse while you yell fraud, and then the dealer will say heck, we intended to fix the A/C all along. Then maybe a judge has to decide who gets the title, the money and the blemish on the credit report.

    Stuartbonia has the best advice I think. Anyone else?

    Steve
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  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    RELAX! I didn't see any major problems on your list. Chances are your coolant has been flushed and is fine. Coolant has nothing to do with the A/C being cold. Clunking noise could be no grease on turning stops. A hitch is no problem, changes are the handling of the SUV will limit the load before the engine or the transmission gives up. This is the same engine and transmission in the base full size pickup, even in 4x4. Front-end alignment is cheap and the mirrors I am sure you can fix. One thing I can say is the engine and transmission maybe the best designs ever built. They are used in everything from full size vans, pickups, and Astros.

    Millions are built each year and they are proven. There is one problem you should consider (none from your list), but not sure it is on the 96. The transmission dipstick leaks water in to the transmission that causes rust on the dipstick tube and can damage the transmission.
  • killer3killer3 Posts: 13
    Most states have a buyers remorse law which should allow you to return car and get all your money back (with no others cause than you want to return it) for three days after you sign papers (some states more). Your state should also have a consumer protection agency which should allow you to call up and get advice without having to pay a lawyer.

    The UCC as mentioned above also should give you additional protections which shouyld give additional time to return due to the defects. However, most likely the papers which you signed when purchasing the car most likely included a warranty statement which supercedes the common law warranty of merchantability that would be your best case otherwise.

    I would, as suggested, stop payment on the check, and let them come after me for payment. If it gets to court they will most definately lose, remember it will be a jury of people who also have bought cars from car dealers, and since it is a civil case you will only need to prove your case by a preponderance of the evidence, and you may not even need a unanimous verdict depending on which state you are in. I once served on a jury on a similar case and we found against the dealer.

    For the money that you paid you might be better off looking into a brand new car. The current incentives and financing rates make leasing/financing a car very favorable right now. Since this car (the Blazer) will most likely need to be replaced fairly quickly (unless you do very little driving annually), and for the same amount it would cost you to drive this six year old car you could be driving something under warranty.

    The dealer may not suggest this because 1. He makes a LOT more on a used car sale, or 2. you may not have the credit available to finance. If you have the credit I would strongly suggest you at least look at the numbers on a new car...it really does offer much better peace of mind to have a car under warranty, where you can hell at the dealer to just fix the damn thing if ANYTHING goes wrong.

    Just my 2 cents.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,562
    Car sales are rarely, if ever, covered by "buyer's remorse" laws in the US. They are intended more for the door-to-door sales situation where someone talks you into a vacuum cleaner.

    Here's one example.

    Steve
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  • alaynazalaynaz Posts: 1
    Hi! I have a 2001 Blazer LT with 22000 miles. Just recently took it in and while they fixed a couple of the things (I did have the "clunking " in the front too...they greased some joints), they couldn't figure out two things.

    1. My alarm goes off for absolutely no reason. First time, i had unlocked the door with keyless remote and it went off when i opened the door. next two times, it just went off while sitting there, noone bothering it, no buttons being pushed..one of these times was in front of the dealership service techs and they still couldn't figure out the problem. Nothing showed up on their diagnostic check (does anything ever show up on their fancy computer check? Nothing has when I've had problems). So now all I can do is keep driving it and wait until the problem gets bad enough to actually show up on their check system. Of course, the alarm has had all these problems happen in the past week. How bad is bad enough? Has anyone had a problem like this or know what could be wrong? (Hopefully It'll get solved before my neighbors with the new baby string me up).

    2. Twice in the past 4 months, when I have started my vehicle the radio was turned off (it was on when I shut the truck off) and the clock had the wrong time. Again, nothing showed up on the diagnostics check. Any clues?

    Thanks in advance for any help.
    Michelle
  • tbcreativetbcreative Posts: 357
    Michelle, it sounds like you have a bad wiring or circuit board issue. Is there another GM dealer you can take it to? It doesn't have to be Chevy. I've found that a dealership with Cadillac, Buick, Olds or GMC usually will go the extra mile for their clientele, because of their customer base. Any service manager worth his salt, should be able to find the answers to the problems you're experiencing. You need to find a good technician that will take the time to find the source of your Blazer woes.
  • I should have posted here instead of starting a new group. Here's a copy of original message:

    Have a 99 Blazer with 34000 miles on it (original owner). Just a few days ago ran really rough (like I was in a rock concert bouncing up and down inside) and service engine soon light came on. This was during idling after starting it. It had cooled for about an hour after last run. After about 15 minutes I decided to pull out and limp home, and it stopped about 5 minutes later, and the light went out.

    After taking it to the dealer they said an injector was sticking, and it was due to MTBE in California gasoline, and that Chevy had put out a bulletin that covered this to 100000 miles or 10 years - but I don't see that bulletin listed here.

    He had right away asked if I had my 30000 service done there (at dealer) to ensure the injectors were cleaned - but I had and was told this could happen any time. He recommended Techron cleaner every 3 tanks as prevention.

    Anyone heard of this?

    Also noticed that the power window driver's side 'clicks' when the window goes to the bottom. Any ideas on this one?

    Also, what's the deal with the recliner seat? I rarely drive with a passenger, and so it gets no use but the reclining handle broke off in my hand (got it replaced).
  • tbcreativetbcreative Posts: 357
    I haven't had the fuel injector problem with my '98 Jimmy, but I had the same problem with my driver's side window during the first year I owned it, and had the passenger side reclining handle break on the seat during the third year. My window motor gave out after a couple of clunking noises, while it was down. I was able to smack the door to get the window up, until I could get it in for service. They replaced the motor and circuit for the window switch. It's been fine since. The handle broke on my wife when we were on a road trip, and had to climb into the back seat to nap because she couldn't recline! I was so pissed when I looked at the cheap alloy they used for a high stress mechanism. Typical GM.

    These and many reasons, too numerous to list, are why I'm SERIOUSLY considering the all-new, more powerful and roomy '03 4Runner coming in September. Fortunately, 90% of the things that went wrong on my truck were covered under warranty (knock on wood), but if you read any of my earlier posts here, you'll see I've had it with GM. I was looking forward to the Trailblazer/Envoy, but wouldn't take either of them on the off-road trails I take my Jimmy on. I wanted MORE ground clearance, not LESS. The next gen. 4Runner will have the new height-adjustable suspension (in addition to it's already great ground clearance), more powerful V6 and V8 options, GPS & DVD systems, and a slew of other great features that rival the GM siblings, all with the dependability and quality of Toyota. I'm counting the days, and hoping my Jimmy holds out...
  • I've been driving it for almost 3 years, and have 34000 miles. It has behaved much better than what I have read here - nothing major. No problems with brakes, wipers, alarm, locks, lights, oil hoses.... Been able to get over 20 mpg highway at 70 mph. Just doing normal maintenance as recommended in manual (3k/change schedule).

    One thing I noticed that is coming up again is the engine will sometimes roar in the morning when cold, but stops within a minute or two. Not sure if it's from engine warming up (could be pcv - had that problem with my old 86 S-10), or 'maybe' some wierd transmission (auto) problem that resolves after shifting (still haven't nailed the pattern and it is uncommon occurance).

    Someone was complaining about wind noise. I noticed the same thing, and had the flipout window (2DR) behind my left ear adjusted. Ok for a while then started again 6 months later. Just left it.

    Driver's side window auto died (see my post above) a year ago - had it replaced - just get click at bottom now (went away for a day after taking it into dealer and he replaced switch, let's see what happens - may need to pick up maintenance manual to attack door panel).

    Overall has treated me great. Traded in the 86 S-10 pickup (2.8L - miss that engine!) in 99 for the 99 Blazer since the pickup treated me so well (clutch after ~8 years, rad around same time, electricals need to be completely redone every year after 10 years). Of course, the plastic rattles inside were terrible. But I took it from midwest to east coast at 10 years (to Newfoundland!) and midwest to LA at 13 years. Started stalling out on me at 13... Biggest problem - body rust from midwest winters / road salt.

    One thing I don't like is that even with all the glass I have a really hard time with that slanted beam in my blind spot. Have put my mirrors totally out so I don't cut people off.

    There's my 2 cents.

    ps - Use a handsfree set if talking. I've almost been T-boned 8 times by people with their hand glued to their head so they can't look and check an intersection. And please signal lane changes. I'll let you in.
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