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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • The dash speakers are tiny. like 2 inches, with a big bracket. If you look on ebay for used blazer speakers, you'll probably find a picture. I haven't found any aftermarket speakers that will fit.
  • Hi, This is the procedure to program the remote:
    1. Close all vehicle doors.
    2. Insert the key into the ignition.
    3. Hold down the power UNLOCK button on the driver’s door panel-continue to hold down until instructed
    to release in step 9.
    4. Perform steps 5 through 8 in fairly rapid succession.
    5. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position (as far as you can go without starting the engine).
    6. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
    7. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
    8. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
    9. Release the power unlock button on the door panel. The vehicle will lock and unlock the doors automatically.
    10. Hold down the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter simultaneously until the door locks and unlocks.
    This step may take up to 30 seconds.
    11. Repeat step 10 NOW for each additional transmitter (including any existing transmitters).
    12. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position in order to exit the transmitter programming mode.
    I have done it to get more than one transmitter to my Blazer, and it works.
    Good luck, Magnus, Sweden.
  • I can't get the front axle to engage when changing into 4wd. I have checked the relays, they work. The switch work, and when pressing 4HI when driving, you can feel it engage. 4LO changes the transmission into low gear, but still not 4wd. When raising the vehicle and go to 4wd, the drive shaft to the front axle start to rotate as well. The vacuum actuator under the battery tray works and pulls the wire real strong. But the front wheels still wont rotate. I think the problem must be inside the front axle!? Do anyone have any suggestions? Please help, I need the 4wd when the snow start to fall.
    1998 Blazer LT
  • Ok, after some digging, and twisting arms and pulling hair, I finally got told the deal as to why my new remote wouldnt program. As it turns out, it does have to do with the after-market alarm. Its a GM after market alarm, and the old remote was for it.
    But, now for the bad part, that remote and its replacement are no longer made.
    It took a Chevy Parts man 4 hours to figure everything out. I went to places where alarms are sold and put in. About 15 of them and it was like, they just stared at me like I had something wrong with me. Came home and searched online remote outlets like keylessride and the like and still no luck. One gu told me I could just search for the FCC number instead of the P/N. But would that work? Find one that ues the same freq range?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Did the vehicle originally have remote keyless entry installed at the factory? Look on the white tag in the glove box for the code AU0.


    If the vehicle had this installed at the factory, the OEM key fob for that year model would work.

    I even took my 2002 which did not have RKE originally, installed the receiver (harness is already there, just plugs in above the parking brake), ordered a couple of fobs, had the dealer "tell" the body control module that the RKE was there, programmed the fobs, and voila, everything works perfectly.
  • no, It didnt come with one. Thats why it has what they call a dealer installed alarm or remote system. There for It has a remote that they put with it. ANd since I didnt have it put in, it was in when I bought it, I have no Idea which dealer did. So, Im out of luck there.I guess I could go to a dealer and get another put in to replace this one. Or just get a viper or another brand put in.
    I did hear about buying the chip and box to have remote working, but, how much is it and how hard is it to install?
  • The 02 sensor has nothing to do with the heater. Either the thermostat doesnt work or it could be low on antifreeze. As well as the heater core might be cracked. ANy smell of antifreeze in the cab of the truck? If not check the thermostat...
  • my parking brake release is broken on my 1998 4 door chevy blazer.the parking break is stuck on any idea on how to take it off with out the release handle
  • You can try to crawl under the truck and pull on the cable by hand really hard to get it to release. But BE CAREFULL WEAR SOME GLOVES! It will be tight, if that doesnt work try to get it to release from under the dash i know the release is broken but u might be able to put a screw driver in there and pop it loose as well
  • 95 Blazer, when trying to put it in 4 hi or lo, lights flicker and it stays in 2 wheel drive, also no heat or a/c coming from the 4 vents above the radio. The reason: PCV valve was bad. Obviously, the 4 wheel drive and the heat-a/c get their vacuum source from the PCV valve, While I was tracing the vacuum lines I accidently pulled the PVC valve from the valve cover. I noticed it wasn't rattling when I shook it so I replaced it ($5) and now everything works!
  • larryylarryy Posts: 1
    Another time saver is run a light from your ground on the battery and other end to a ground,,light should turn on if short. If on, go to fuse box and pull one fuse at a time and replace. Do this until the light goes out,,this will at least isolate the problem.
  • zetrozetro Posts: 1
    My blazer starts and stalls alot when the dash lights come on before starting it starts up just fine now the lights don't come on just the radio and dome light ot turns over but never cranks up just replaced the battery it started for about an hour then the dash lights went out and nothing. I need some help!!!
  • My 2001 GMC Jimmy SLE has cruise control and I thought there was a light on the instrument panel that lit up when cruise control was on. There is one on my 2004 Sierra. But, either the light is burned out, or there isn't one. I can't find it in the owner's manual. Does anyone know if there is supposed to be a light? :confuse:
  • Thanks for the quick reply. Now I can quit looking for what isn't there! :)
  • olddaveolddave Posts: 21
    I purchased my 1998 Jimmy 4X4 in May this year. When I got it, I only received ONE igntion key for it. I had 2 more keys cut immediately to have some spares. But it had automatic door locks and power windows, etc., so I thought it might have been set up for keyless entry. Sure enough, I found on this forum the info that if it had an "AU0" build code on the glove box door, it should be all set for RKE. I found the AU0 code, and then I found your instructions of how to program the RKE fob. So I ordered 2 new fobs from for about $40 each, and by using your procedure, "SHAZAMM", I now have keyless entry for my Jimmy withourt having to pay a hunk of money to a GM dealer to make it work.
    So you get a big ATTABOY from me!!!
  • I have a 2002 Blazer I got for free from my mother in law. Sounds great, except it's ruining my life. The anti theft system works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. It has a mind of it's own. I would recommend taking it out all together. Mine is a little bit newer than yours. The anti theft system is probably an upgrade compared to your old anti theft system and it still gives me problems. I think they all should be discontinued. Take it out and just get a club.
  • lacatlacat Posts: 1
    I don't believe this is happen to my 95 Blazer,cost me a motor and new oil cooler,garage said they could not leave it off or change it out.ended up paying over 2000,to get everything fixed they should recall.
  • buzzhbuzzh Posts: 3
    I've got a 1998 GMC Jimmy with 260000 miles. Car has been nonstop. Minor repairs. Been using Amzoil for a couple of years.
    Wife went to start and it suddenlly stopped with quite a jar.
    After that it would crank but backfire through intake.
    I set #1 at TDC and distributor was facing #4
    Pulled distributor and gear is in tack.
    I have pulled the timing chain cover and all is well there. Marks line up on crank gear and cam gear. So I'm pulling motor. But was hopefull someone might have experienced this. Could cam gear have slipped or is it machined to cam?
    Can distributor have enough lateral travel that cam and distributor shaft would disengage?
    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Buzz
  • Buzz,

    Don't pull the engine... I had a similar experience with a Chevy V8... Just as the engine started to crank... it stopped with quite a jar... just like you described. Any further attempts to start at that time... and the engine acted like it was locked up. I let it sit for a couple of hours... then it started... but had a lifter noise in #8. I noticed that the plug wire had come loose... but was still on the plug. The engine eventually started again... but took half a tank of gas before the lifter quieted down.

    I have been using Amsoil since 1978... I use it in my 96 Blazer... and my 81 Grand Prix.

    Suggestions: Pull all the plugs... see if the engine will crank... if so... see if any fuel comes out of any of the cylinders... particularly 5 or 6. If so... the most likely cause is a leaking fuel regulator inside the plentum.

    Let me know what happens...

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