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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • buzzhbuzzh Posts: 3
    Thanks TJ, I'll take a look.
    I've negelected Jimmy far to long. Pulled the radiator and the lower half was clogged. I'll pull the accessory brackets and pull plugs, it needs a tune up something bad. l just want it last till next summer when we'll buy something newer.
    Thanks for the advice and I'll post what I find, sometime this week.
    Buzz
  • OK... good luck... I am in the Tampa Bay area in Florida... Looking to share experiences I have had with my 96 Blazer. I have kept up maintenance... all synthetic lubricants including grease.

    The transmission went down at the 162,000 mile mark... 3-4 gear clutch pack finally went. I purchased vehicle with 81,000 miles in 2004... flushed the transmission three times before it went down. I found a shop that had all kinds of test equipment... for testing the solenoids, valve body, etc... all the parts inside so that they knew everything was working before the put anything back in the tranny. They also insisted that the transmission be filled with Synthetic ATF... I had no problem with that... as I had never had the opportunity to use the Amsoil ATF. Trans runs about 50 degrees cooler.

    I currently have 182,000 miles... about two years ago I wanted to put a dist cap on with brass contacts. I order my wires, cap and rotors from Jacobs Electronics. The cap and rotor I orderd two years ago... turned out to have aluminum contacts when I opened it this last June. I did not change it right away... because I had just changed out the cap, rotor, and wires with AC Delco parts... I should have done so right away. Anyway... about six months ago I called around looking for a cap with brass contacts... AutoZone and Advanced Auto gave me a price of $65.00... too rich for me... so I just put it on the back burner. I checked again two weeks ago... Neither store carries them... so I ended up at NAPA... $41.00... I will be buying another dist cap next mount to keep on the shelf... my point is... the brass contacts made a big difference in idle and performance... still getting numbers on miles per gallon... but before I did the change... I was getting 20-21 MPG.

    Take care,

    TJ
  • Does anyone have a diagram that shows the wiring harness to the shifter... plug has about six wires... locks the shifter when in park... grey is instrument lights... for the selector window... black is usually ground... I need to know what the other four are... one is pink... one is yellow... one is purple... if I remember correctly.

    Thank you,

    TJ
  • Every time I'm towing a load ( tent trailer or utility trailer ) with moderate loads, going up hills causes the engine to misfire and lose power. Eventually, the check engine lights comes on to indicate P300 ( misfire undetermined ). What is the first course of action to take except an expensive tune up?
  • An expensive tune up! :P

    Misfire under load is almost always an ignition problem. You could buy spark plugs and try that. I don't recall if your year/model uses coil packs or actual distributor cap and wires, but if the latter you could replace those, too.
  • First, be sure the #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke at TDC. If so, and the dist is pointing to #4, there has to be a break in the valve train. First thing to check is that the timimg marks still line up on the timing gears, cuz it sounds like the thiming chain has jumped teeth. If timing gears/chain are good, and distributor is good, then must be camshaft related, but I've never heard of this actually happening, it's usually the chain/gears.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Pull the cap off the distributor and see if it turns when the engine is cranked. At 260,000 miles, you may have snapped a camshaft. Not common, but at those kind of miles you never know.
  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    Here's the poop: 2001 Blazer LT, 122,000 miles. Had the fuel pump replaced (11/25) and the fuel pump relay was checked (same time) and it works fine. Ok,I have driven it daily since the pump was replaced. Drove it to work and home on Tuesday. Took the wife's car to my Mom's Wednesday morning and got home Saturday. Got in it this morning (Monday) and low and behold it WILL NOT start. It sat for five days. It rained all day Sunday. I popped the hood and it looked like everything was covered with moisture to include the distributor cap. Turns over but won't catch. I hear the pump prime up but it will not catch. My wife tried it this afternon (sat for about 4 hours).I have absolutley no idea what is wrong or where to look. I am so over workng on this thing, I can't stand it!!!!
    :mad:

    PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    :cry:
  • buzzhbuzzh Posts: 3
    Stup[id me,
    Being an old school 'wrench' I was accustomed to a normal distributor cap.
    I didn't realize that the actual contact for #4 was opposite from the #4 wire.
    I pulled the timing chain cover off and all was well. So I pulled the accessories off and cleaned everything.
    Bought all new tune up parts, plugs, wires, cap, rotor,
    Still no start and I hear that dreaded sucking sound coming out of the intake like a bad valve. Plus the backfire through the intake.
    So we're looking for another rig. I want another Blazer, but she wants a frickin' Pontiac Vibe......................:(
    Thanks for the replies. But think it'll sit till next summer. Thinking about a 350 CI for it. Be a long term project a real sleeper.
    Buzz
  • i have a 96 chevy blazer that i recently had a new engine put in with 110k on the motor. it was sitting for about 5 months beofre the new engine was put in and driven again. when i got it back i put it into nuetral and put it into 4 hi and when i put it back into drive i went forward and every quarter turn of the front tires spinning it would make a loud clunking noise like something was grinding in the drivetrain. im not sure if its the front differential axles or something ive heard about the acuator?? any information and help is appreciated.
  • Boy, I understand the frustration. All I can say is everytime I've had those symptoms (several), it's been the timing chain/gears.

    I'm working on the same idea of the engine swap for my S10 pickup, not my Blazer. should be a lot of fun.
  • ya might be that but it drives perfect in 2hi only makes the clunking noie in 4wd. just tried it yesterday and it did it again but only when i turn the wheel or accelerate
  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    Problem solved: gummed up fuel filter. $12.62 later and it runs fine.
  • I just did the lower intake on my 99 blazer. put it all back together and fired it up. I fired up and i shut it down quickly. Went an ate dinner and returned to move it onto ramps to change oil before i test drove it and no it wont start. It cranks and sputters but wont kick on. Plugs are wet, i dropped the dristributer right back into place and my marks matched. dont know what to do or where to start. :mad:
  • jpmccrjpmccr Posts: 31
    Last starting issue was also due to a really bad, messed distributor cap and rotor. Replaced and she runs fine.
  • Hi all,

    I just wanted to share my recent experience. My 18-year old son crashed my 2000 Blazer. I had to pay more than $3,000 to fix it but the pain was more than the one-time expenditure. My Blazer now has subtle vibration on the steering wheel at acceleration and coasting, and the vibration is accompanied by the loud road noise. I think that the collision caused a misalignment of axles.

    I really miss the smooth, quiet, silky ride of my Blazer. Now my Blazer is driving like a rough, noisy truck. I bought it new in 2000 and it has 83,000 miles on it.

    Just a thought for everyone: if you test drive a used car or SUV, pay attention to any roughness of ride on accelaration and coasting. If you feel any roughness or excessive road noise, it may be because of misalignment of axles from an accident.
  • It will likley be the front wheel bearings.. does it have a humming noise to it at all when u turn the wheel one way or the other? if so let me know and i can help narrow down which bearing it is.
  • Hi Sealteam8,

    Thank you for your kind words. I will test it and let you know as soon as possible.
  • I just replaced my 4WD transmission module. I haven't been using 4WD for 2 yrs, but now I can't turn fully easily. If I'm going slowly It acts like I'm applying the brake.Any idea's?
    Doug
  • Hi Sealteam8,

    I tried and listened to the sound from the front end and feel the vibration on the steering wheel while the vehicle was making right and left turns and moving straight. It sounded like those problems were significantly reduced during the turn, both right and left, even though the weight was on the front wheels. I do not seem to hear humming noise during the turns. In the meantime, the noise and vibration seemed to exist whenever the vehicle was moving and they increased and decreased as the speed went up and down on the straight path and during the turns.

    Do you have any ideas?

    Do you think the noise and vibration could be from over-inflated tires? The body shop seems to have kindly cleaned and inflated the tires for me.

    I will try and hear the noise and feel the vibration when the vehicle is driving on the very smooth road surface, where the tire noise is expected to be minimum. Thank you again for your help. I will post my message again.
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