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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • zr2randozr2rando Posts: 391
    Like CLIFFWILLSON said those lug clips are put on at the factory as an assembly aid and need to be cut off before you can get the rotor off. The design on those rear disk brakes leaves a lot to be desired...The drum portion is nothing like normal drum brakes.
    The parking brake caliper is only a partial ring of very thin brake material and your parking brake mechanism only bends it out at the end of the "c"-shape. If it has ever been accidentally left engaged and you drove off (which is easy to do because they don't grab very well) they are toast...literally...and will need to be replaced.
    Mine were replaced under warranty, My parking brakes did not work when I picked up the vehicle so I took it to Chev...they were clearly (visibly) overheated and did not function at all. Someone probably didn't realize they were on during one of the first test drives and there they went.
    The Chev mechanic told me that the retract mechanism had therefore locked up (overheated in the extended position) and therefore were locked into a groove in that mini-hub...whole rotor assembly had to be replaced...under warranty luckily. If that is the case for you, you may want to check with Chev for any hints how to get the rotor off, There is no opening on the back side to mechanically retract that parking brake caliper..like I said ....design leaves ALOT to be desired.
    Possibly may be so expensive you may just have to replace the pads and go with it as is, next time it is up for replacement then replace the whole thing, frequently the rotor cannot be resurfaced twice anyway.
    Good luck.
    Rando
  • HELP!
    Has anyone had to replace fuse to turning signals
    for 97 Chevy Blazer. Was told it was under the dash. Almost tore the car apart looking for it. Will appreciate any advice to the location.
  • I have a 99' Blazer, the fuses are on the left side of the dash, between the dash and the door. There is a little door there, you turn knob clock wise and it will open. There is a 2nd. fuse box under the hood, driver side halve way between the front and the windsheld. Good luck, hope I helped.
  • Rather than a fuse, I believe you are interested in replacing the turn signal/hazard light flasher. It is located behind the glove compartment. You need to open your glove compartment, depress the clip at the top of the backside of the compartment. The unit will slip forward and reveal the flasher assembly. It is a small square shaped component that plugs into an electrical socket and is further held in place by a plastic snap tab around the outside. If you still get a clicking noise from the flasher, engage your signal light and the clicking noise will guide you to the flasher once you have the glove comparment moved out of the way.
  • beejoobeejoo Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 4dr LS Blazer with 145,000 miles. The list is long. Brakes go out every 30,000 to 35,000 miles @ $300 per pop. After the 3rd set of GM brake pads I went to PepBoys and put on their Lifetime pads for $60 and have 45000 miles on them. Still have not changed them.

    The alternator went out at 60000 miles ($350). The Air Compressor went out at 75000 miles ($850). Heater coil out last month ($450). Today, the gas intake seal leaking coolant fluid ($350). The transmission shifted hard out of 1st gear after 3 months. Brought the vehicle in twice, GM says it shifts perfect. So I drive it like that for 4 years like that. Finally brought it in because of the SES light on. After another $800 for 3 parts for other problems, the transmission shifts perfect. I have had to change the battery every 12 months for 4 years. No questions asked. The current battery is 14 months old. It could go any day now. At 65 mph and above, it has a very annoying front to back shake. Balanced tires, shocks and new tires. Never got any better. There is more, but that is all I can think of at this time.

    Bottom line, this is the worst vehicle I have ever owned. About the only good thing I can say about this vehicle is the engine has lots of power. Other than that, nothing. This was my first GM product. I will not buy another.
  • Your story sounds an awfull like my 95 that I got rid of. The final straw was when I needed a new fuel pump at 47K (around a $300 repair).
    They should change the commercial to:
    "Like a Creampuff"
    Ron
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    It's nice to know there are so many out there who can feel my pain. I have a 96 Jimmy with all the problems in the last two messages except for the alternator, which will probably go out tomorrow. I have also had other problems such as the infamous leaking oil cooler lines. That was the least expensive because a friend of a fiend got them for me at a dealer for about 30 bucks. I have always had good luck with GM vehicles until now. For those who need additional therapy, just read some of the Explorer messages.
  • Transmission hard shift out of 1st is probably a worn modulating valve in the valve body. I was lucky, my SES light went on and the dealer quickly identified the problem. Typically happens when the tranny fluid is hot (mine happened an hour into a 400-mile highway trip). Not isolated to just Blazers/Jimmys/Bravadas, but any GM truck using the 4T60-E tranny. The cure is an updated valve body... the original one used a plastic modulating valve that becomes ovalized over time and allows fluid to leak past, resulting in the hard upshift.

    Since we are on the subject of the 4T60-E, I've discovered another phenomenom. Even with the new valve body, when the tranny is hot, the 1>2 upshift at light to part-throttle is what GM calls a "double bump" (cold and WOT shifts are firm). I'm going in next week to have the tranny tore into and have the servo rod that controls the shift "adjusted", according to my service advisor, which should firm up the shift (fingers crossed).
  • bioman3bioman3 Posts: 37
    I owned a 95 Jimmy for about 4 years. It was an experience as you can see from the maintenance records below. I removed the regular maintenance items so thing might seem out of sync. I now own an Explorer which has been a gem by comparison. Very few problems, just regular maintenance. If misery loves company, I hope I made you feel better! Sorry about the order of the data base items. They did not transfer well to this email, but you get the flavor of the Jimmy I owned.

    Service Items Repaired Reason Special Comments
    2/16/95 Picked up Jimmy 00002.9 New truck
    5/15/95 Recall- Crankshaft sensor 03934 Recall
    5/15/95 Replaced CMSL 03934 Warranty
    6/95 1st. Repair of water leak 04000 Warranty
    6/95 2nd repair leak replaced gasket on right rear door 04500 Warranty
    9/8/95 Replaced all wiper arms 09576 Pealing paint on arms Warranty
    1/23/96 Replaced front braked & cut rotors 15007 maint.
    11/5/96 New battery 23338 Warranty
    11/10/96 New front brakes 23520 Maint
    7/13/97 New front brakes 32137 6th problem
    10/24/97 Replaced torque converter & pump 35045 8th. Problem
    11/7/97 Replaced oil lines to filter, fuel tank recall 35600 9th problem, fuel tank recall
    4/9/98 New front brakes & calipers 41577 10 th problem
    4/14/98 New rear brakes + Repaired brake light switch 41865 11th Problem
    7/18/98 New right caliper 45434 Leak of brake fluid from caliper
    8/22/98 New left front door elect. Lock 46911 Did not open door
    1/10/99 Front brakes, rotated tires 52508 12 th problem fast brake pad wear
    4/17/99 New shift cable 56809 Cable broke could not shift transmission
    6/12/99 New front brakes, rotated tires 59221 13 th problem- fast brake pad wear
    6/15/99 New front rotors 59290 14th problem- rotors scorched & grooved
    7/12/99 Windshield washer pulse control 60175 15th. Problem Recall
    7/22/99 Replace catalytic converter 60443 16th. Problem Warranty work
    10/31/99 new front brake pads, new left front caliper 65440 17th. Problem
    10/31/99 New Battery+ Found vanity light in right sun visor has been on for four years!! 65455 18th. Problem
    12/30/99 ABS ROM Chip + NYS Inspection 66780 19th Problem recall & inspection
  • gbondgbond Posts: 5
    i am finally getting around to replacing the oil cooler lines on my 99 blazer.

    for one of the pieces, my gm parts shop provided me with part no. 15760333, which is the lines btwn the radiator/oil cooler and filter housing.

    the part is identified as a "replacement part" in the gm inventory, replacing original part no. 15726903. (apparently the original part is no longer manufactured?).

    the original design featured on the upper hose a metal tube fitting with a 90 deg angle and short length to fit into the quick-release fitting in the radiator/oil cooler.

    the replacement part, in contrast, is noticeably different from the original in that this metal tube features, from its end, a longer length before arcing into a gradual downward curve as it straightens and connects to the rubber hose segment.

    the original design seemed to assure that this oil hose fitting would plug into the radiator/oil cooler quick-release fitting with nearly no room to spare between the radiator/oil cooler and air box.

    i haven't applied the new part yet, but just after eyeing the application, it appears there is no way this new-styled upper oil cooler line fitting is going to fit in the space available btwn the upper quick release fitting and the air box. the length of tube before it bends downward is so long that it appears it will stick out far beyond the limit imposed by the position of the air box.

    does anybody have experience with this new "replacement" part?

    is it going to work or does the air box need to be re-positioned?

    many thanks,

    gregg
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    I know what you are talking about because I just put these lines on my 96. The new ones look standardized and cost reduced (to GM). I had the same concern when I installed mine, but they did go on. However there was some slight interference with the air filter housing AND at the other end where it connects to the oil filter housing. I was also concerned that the lock ring did not snap into a groove like the old one and there was too much play. But so far they are not leaking.

    Question to all: has anyone had to replace the lines from the engine to the filter housing? It looks like the front differential has to be removed? Not a typical DIY.
  • I changed my leaking oil cooler lines about four months ago on my 95 Blazer. What a job! I jacked up the vehicle and removed the front left wheel to gain access to the engine/trans bracket. The next step was to remove the bolt from the engine mount in order to jack up the engine about inch or two to remove the lines from the engine. What a horrible design. Took about four hours of trial and error to figure this out. I hope this helps.
  • gbondgbond Posts: 5
    thanks for the replies to my oil line comments.

    1) indrgb: undoubtedly, the quality of the replacement part appears to fall far short of the orig.

    as you point out, i suspected that the fittings would probably not fit as securely as the orig. the replacement part simply looks cheap.

    2) based on suchsimon's experience i will leave that part of the job to the dealer. with the wheel off, i thought i might be able to devise some method by which to reach that bolt. the front diff appears to make it nearly impossible to reach, but i thought maybe, just maybe there might be a way. i guess i won't waste more time considering it.
  • My wife's 96 Blazer has had many of the problems that appear in these posts. I can't wait for the rest to hit now that the extended warranty is over.

    Our current problem is drving my crazy. We changed all four tires with about 49,000 miles on them. Up until then the truck ran very smoothly on the highway. Now it vibrates very noticibly at 65mph and higher.

    The tires were bought at Goodyear and I brought the Blazer back twice. Each time they put four new tires on it. I'm sure they really did because they were different models. Goodyear says it's not the tires.

    I brought it to Sears to have the tires rebalanced and they said that we need new idle arms and new upper and lower ball joints. I wasn't comfortable with Sears doing that work so I brought it to the Chevy dealer who replaced both lower ball joints for $500. It still shakes. Should we do the trial and error routine and keep paying for things that don't help?
  • If you have to have the ball joints replaced, odds are good GM should reimburse you for the trouble.


    http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/central2.cfm

  • Thanks Poisendartfrog! I called my dealer today and he told me about the upper ball joint "deal" only after I complained that their first fix did nothing to fix my truck.

    I wish I made the post before they replaced the lower ball joints. Hopefully Chevy will make good on them.
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    I was not able to get to the recall info on the above link and could not find it. Is there a recall # for it?

    I had the ball joints replaced under 36/36, since they went at 30k miles. Never had a car/truck do that before. I think everyone should complain to NHTSA on ALL our items. GM should be forced to recall most of this junk.

    My engine is again (with 60k) making a noise at idle that sounds like the belt tensioner. It was replaced under warranty at 30k also. It now needs replacing again. My problem is I can't tell what needs replacing. Is it the idler arm, the idler arm wheel, or the separate idler wheel?

    Not to feel left out, here is what was replaced on my Blazer, all in the first 36/36! The oil cooler lines (both), power steering pump, both lower ball joints, idler arm, belt tensioner, serpentine belt, battery, heater core, radio, radio speaker, drivers upper door hinge, both rear rotors, CV joint boot, tailgate light switch. I also had to replace the exhaust donuts my self at 50k. What a job that it is.

    I can feel that American quality! The worst part is that the plastic interior rattles so much you want to hate this SUV when driving too. I want to trade it but the poor resale value makes it nearly impossible. I bet GM is laughing at all of us.
  • I recently bought a 98 CHEVY BLAZER S-10 with 57k on it. I had it checked out by a mechanic and he found a few leaks but nothing major and nothing that was not covered under an extended warranty I bought. My problem is the gas mileage however. I get approx. 120 miles to a full tank of gas which is horrible. It starts and drives smoothly so do not know if a tune up would help. Is there anything else that I can check for besides the air filter which is new (such as PCV, oxygen sensors etc..)or anything that would help? thanks
    SS.
  • NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 01I018000
    Component: SUSPENSION:INDEPENDENT FRONT CONTROL ARM UPPER:BALL JOINT
    Manufacturer: GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

    Year: 1997 Make: CHEVROLET TRUCK Model: BLAZER Recall Date: 01/07/2002
    Type of Report: Vehicle
    Potential Number of Units Affected:
    Manufactured: / - /
    Defect Summary:
    THIS IS NOT A SAFETY RECALL IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE SAFETY ACT. HOWEVER, IT IS DEEMED A SAFETY IMPROVEMENT CAMPAIGN BY THE AGENCY. VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: 1996-1997 4-WHEEL DRIVE CHEVROLET BLAZER, GMC JIMMY, AND OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES. SOME OWNERS HAVE HAD TO PAY FOR REPLACEMENT OF THE UPPER BALL JOINTS THAT HAVE SEPARATED. GM IS PROVIDING A SPECIAL POLICY TO THESE OWNERS TO COVER UPPER BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT IF THE CUSTOMER FOLLOWED THE RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE FOR THE CHASSIS LUBRICATION AND THE VEHICLE STILL REQUIRED THE REPLACEMENT OF THE UPPER BALL JOINTS DUE TO SEPARATION. Consequence Summary:
    THIS COULD CAUSE A LOSS OF STEERING CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE. Corrective Summary:
    THIS SPECIAL POLICY IS FOR A PERIOD OF 8 YEARS OR 100,000 MILES, WHICHEVER OCCURS FIRST, FROM THE DATE THE VHEICLE WAS ORIGINALLY PLACED IN SERVICE, REGARDLESS OF OWNERSHIP. THE UPPER BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT, DUE TO SEPARATION, WILL BE MADE AT NO CHARGE TO THE CUSTOMER DURING THIS PERIOD.

    Check to order research. Submit below.
    NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 01V200000
    Component: SUSPENSION:INDEPENDENT FRONT CONTROL ARM UPPER:BALL JOINT
    Manufacturer: GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

    Year: 1997 Make: CHEVROLET TRUCK Model: BLAZER Recall Date: 07/02/2001
    Type of Report: Vehicle
    Potential Number of Units Affected: 48600
    Manufactured: / - /
    Defect Summary:
    VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES ORIGINALLY SOLD OR CURRENTLY REGISTERED IN THE STATES OF CONNECTICUT, DELAWARE, ILLINOIS, INDIANA, IOWA, MAINE, MARYLAND, MASSACHUSETTS, MICHIGAN, MINNESOTA, MISSOURI, NEW HAMPSHIRE, NEW JERSEY, NEW YORK, OHIO, PENNSYLVANIA, RHODE ISLAND, VERMONT, WEST VIRGINIA, AND WISCONSIN, AND IN THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA. FAILURE OF AN UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARM BALL JOINT ASSEMBLY COULD OCCUR DUE TO CORROSION. Consequence Summary:
    THIS CAN RESULT IN IMPAIRED STEERING OR STEERING LOSS, OR A PARTIAL OR COMPLETE COLLAPSE OF THE FRONT SUSPENSION, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH. Corrective Summary:
    DEALERS WILL REPLACE BOTH UPPER BALL JOINTS.
  • With all stop-and-go driving, the WORST mpg with my '97 Bravada has been 14-15 mpg. With 120 miles on an 18-20 gallon tank, 6-7 mpg???? Whoa... is the exhaust, eh, sooty? Maybe a converter is plugged, but then you say it drives smoothly? With that low a gas mileage, that engine is not at all "efficient". Does it have good acceleration? The 4.3 V6 isn't a powerhouse, but it isn't a "dog" either. Definitely calls for a full diagnostic.

    Unless... Have you confirmed you fill 15-20 gallons when it reads empty? Maybe the fuel sending unit is wacked?

    Just some ideas to ponder...
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