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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • 82mustangs@bellsouth.net probabaly heater control switch or a vacum line more like the first.tony
  • try coolant temp sensor 10 part makes injectors run wide open if not working right . tony
  • could be module distribur.
  • Hi
    Sorry about the caps.
    Thanks for the reply
    I will let you know how it turns out
    thanks
  • I have a 2000 Jimmy. Someone was able to break into my truck by jamming something under the door handle while I was shopping. In under 10 mins they cleaned out my car. I don't know if these locks are particularly easy to open, but if you read this, be careful about what you leave in your truck.

    Not repair related, I know, but I wanted to let you other Jimmy owners know.
  • t2mbbct2mbbc Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    My throttle cable broke right at the gas pedal tonight. The pedal went right to the floor without accelerating or springing back. How do you fix that? I can feel the top of the pedal and the cable itself that is no longer connected. I am guessing that I have to replace the cable but I can't find any instructions anywhere. Can you tell me how to replace the cable if that is what I should do?
    Thanks!
  • can any one help my 1998 jimmy has been acting up. i changed acuator acuator cable encoder motor and dash switch. didnt have four wheel drive sometimes untill i changed the dash switch. now it goes into four high and dont want to shift back. any suggestions?
  • hewybohewybo Posts: 10
    bought my 95 last summer -am pleased so far........except - I can't find the dang door lock solenoid by feeling around inside the door! Where the heck is it? I'm thinking back by the door latch mechanism, but cannot be sure. How to remove/replace? :confuse:
  • johngjrjohngjr Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Blazer w/ V6 4.3,the engine has 126K on it. There is a rubbing noise coming from the distributor. With your hand on the distributor, you can feel it while the engine is running. The frequency of the noise increases as the rpm increases. The cap and rotor have been replaced with no change in the noise. Is it the distributor or something more internal with the engine?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,420
    Might be a bearing in the distributor. You might need to pull it to test the play in it and also check the drive for damage.

    MODERATOR

  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    This could be a lot of things. I think the only way to know is to pull the distributor. Some of the older vehicles, 1996-1998, had a soft dist. drive gear at the bottom, so there could easily be other bearing/bushing wear issues.

    If you do this, be sure to mark all the relative positions. Also may require going through the timing set procedure for the engine computer, especially if you have to replace any parts.
  • beaches2beaches2 Posts: 1
    I have a 99 jimmy, it would not start and the battery light was alway on, so me being a women and my husband deployed, I went and bought a new battery, it starts, but the battery light is still on, and it seems to be draining the battery slowly. Any ideas on how to fix this, or whats wron?
  • hewybohewybo Posts: 10
    most likely, it's your alternator - you could go to a reputable auto parts store (AutoZone, etc.), and they will check it for you for free.....good luck, and our thanks and prayers to you and your husband.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited April 2010
    The charge indicator light will be illuminated if the charging voltage is too high or too low. . Make certain the intergral voltage regulator terminal output wire is fully connected to the terminal that is located in the side of the alternator. The alternator is not serviceable and no periodic maintenance is required. The alternator should never be disassembled for any reason.

    However, over a period of time, the intergral regulator voltage output Weather-Pak terminal connector located in the side of the alternator can become loose and can illuminate the charge indicator light, even if the voltage output is only slightly low. The charge indicator light has no dim or bright stage to show the rate of charge or discharge. The charge indicator light is either fully lit or it is off. If the output voltage terminal Weather-Pak connector is loose or damaged, it can be blown off by the force of air from the radiator cooling fan, especially after driving at higher speed. You should NEVER operate the alternator with the output terminal disconnected. The voltage output Weather-Pak connector has a black rubber boot to protect the connection . You can request that a service station attendant or a parts store employee check the alternator voltage regulator out put terminal connector to see if the connector has become loose. If it is loose or disconnected, it can be pushed back on the alternator connection. If the connector was loose, the GM Weather-Pak alternator voltage output connection should be checked often or the Weather-Pak connector replaced.

    That happened to my 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4 because the plastic locking tab on the GM Weather-Pak connector was sabotaged by someone and it would not lock onto the alternator voltage output terminal connection.. My S10 Blazer has a digital instrument panel with no indicator light. When the connector came loose, the battery charge rate indicated less than 10 volts. (I found that the air flow from the radiator would blow the Weather-Pak connection apart every time I got up to freeway speeds....... or higher. That led me to the problem and I replaced the plastic GM Weather-Pak terminal connector but only after I got tired of pushing it back on the alternator voltage output terminal.

    Replacing a GM Weather-Pak connector is not a job for a novice because it takes patience and special tools. A dealership could replace the Weather-Pak connector for about 0.5 hour flat rate labor cost. Be advised, you should NEVER lubricate GM Weather-Pak connectors with WD-40 because the "secret sauce" in that product will attack and ruin GM Weather-Pak seals. The main ingredient in that product is mineral spirits which will ruin the silicone Weather-Pak connector seals. Always use a dielectric silicone lubricant in a tube but on the seals only and not on the conductors. The term di-electric means "insulator" or non-conductor and using di-electic grease can reduce full electrical connection. . .

    I hope this tip saved you about $200 for a rebuilt alternator.
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    I really sounds like the alternator is not charging for some reason. It could be the Alternator, a connection, or the belt may be slipping. The larger chain auto parts stores (Advance, Autozone, Checker) will test both the battery and alternator for you. Call them first and ask if they offer the service. If the alternator is not charging, the battery WILL slowly drain down due to the electrical usage of the car during normal operation. If the alternator needs to be replaced, ask the auto parts store to recommend a shop. They will know who does honest work. Do not take it to a dealer unless there is no other choice. Even a chain auto repair shop (Firestone, Midas, etc. ) would be better than the dealer, but I would prefer a locally owned independent garage, since they have to do have a good reputation to stay in business.

    The previous battery may have been OK, just low due to the bad alternator or connection, but don't panic over that. A really good battery is always good to have
    Hoe this helps. If you need anything further, just post again. .
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    edited April 2010
    For some good news, if the alternator is bad and needs replacing, the job is very simple and quick (as in low labor cost).

    With your husband deployed, and in support of our troops, if you were within 100 miles of central Texas I would come do the job myself, no charge. My nephew is currently in Iraq in special forces.

    Tell us your general area and I will challenge my online associates to step up.

    Jim
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    If you determine it is in fact the alternator that is at fault and not the voltage output wire connector, the cost of the alternator alone will be from $80 to $184 plus tax, depending on where it is purchased. Be advised, alternators seldom fail and they will usually last for the life of the car.That excludes Ford alternators which fail regularily.

    The average flat rate labor cost in Texas is $65 per hour at an independent garages and $90 per hour at Chevrolet deaerships.. The flat rate time will only be applied to 1/2 hour labor no matter who does the work and how long it actually takes. That is in addition to the cost of the alternator. A new car dealership will charge from $150 to $184 for a rebuilt 105 amp alternator whereas a independent garage may charge as little as $80 for a rebuilt 105 amp alternaotror, plus the applicable 1/2 hour labor cost and sales tax. Total cost of parts and labor is :
    Dealerships: $229.
    Independent garages ...$115
    You will get a 90 day to a one year day gauarantee if a professional car repair facility does the work and that is worth something.

    New car dealerships discourage non-warranty work by charging higher labor and parts costs. That is because a dealership has all the work they can handle just doing warranty work on the cars they have already sold and warranty work takes priority over non-warranty work. Avoid a new car dealership,even if they give you all the free coffee you can drink or a loaner car to use.
  • i'm having trouble finding the starter, i just hear clicking when i turn the ignition, how can i check if the starter is defective?
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46
    This could be a lot of things, least likely is the starter. Most likely is a low battery or poor connection.

    With the headlights on, turn the key to start. If the lights go out, low/bad battery, or poor connection. First, clean battery cable connections, be sure connections are tight after cleaning. Also, many parts stores (Autozone, Advance, Checker, etc) will test the battery. Or, try jumping with another battery in a running car. If it still just clicks, may be bad starter solenoid.

    With the headlights on, turn the key to start. If the lights stay on, is probably bad solenoid. Good news, parts are cheap, bad news is hard to get to, have to remove the starter to change the solenoid.

    Once the starter is out, parts store will test solenoid and starter.

    What year is your Blazer?
  • mudluvermudluver Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Blazers when I give it gas to go its fine until I have to increase speed. Its fine to just role away but trying to get on the high way or when I need it to get up and go it bogs out. Any ideas to what it could be please let me know. I've change spark plugs, wires, MAF, Fuel pump, full lines, expected on the engine that is the only fuel line I haven't checked. :sick: :confuse: :cry: :( :lemon:
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