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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • I searched a few different topics throughout the forum and this is the only topic that seems to have the advertisement hiding the posts. I do believe that it is the oversized pictures that I posted. It's as if the width of the box for the posts is dependent upon the size of the picture, and the advertisements do not change in size to compensate for the large picture. Maybe I can resize the pictures that I post from photobucket before I post them? I will see into it.
  • do_it_myselfdo_it_myself Posts: 10
    edited August 2010
  • If someone (or you) posts an oversize JPG and skews the page so that yo9u can't see the "reply" button, you can defeat this by going to the "Go To MSG #" box that appears in the gray bar at the top and bottom of the list of posts and typing in the number AFTER the one with the oversize JPG.
  • My 2005 Chev Blazer only blow cool air. When I turn the dial to hot, the air stops but I can still hear the blower working. When I switch it back to cold, the air blows well again! Any ideas as to why?
  • When you say you turn the dial to Hot, which dial are you referring to? The one that controls air temperature (Blue and Red), or the one that directs the airflow to different outlets.
  • Well I finally traded my blazer in, hated to do it because it was still a good truck to me. I only had two of the problems evryone was having: 4x4 not working and the driver door sagging. But never had all the other problems. But just needed something newer and less miles on it. Blazer had 150,000. I will always buy Chevy, mind you Chevy not GM as a whole. I was rasied with them an know how to work on them. So I traded it for a 2007 Impala 3LT with a 3.9.
    Hope you all have the best of luck with all of your Blazers, I will now headover to the Impala forums....Peace!!!
  • It was funny reading your comment :) . I live in Sweden and have a 1998 Blazer LT that has had 180,000 miles and I only have had 2 problems with it. Exactly the same problems that you've had, sagging driver door and a non functional 4 WD.
    I have found out that all the electrical to the 4 WD works correct, the vacuum that pulls the wire work correct, so the problem must be somewhere in the front axle. Anyone that has a tip?
    Have a great day...
  • Yes, alot of others have gone through the 4x4 not working. I bought it and right off the bat they had it in the shop for 2 weeks and couldn't find out why it didn't work or why my switch would go from 2HI to 4 HI by itself. So seeing I live in the city and would never use the 4x4 I had them unplug it and that took care of it for me. As for the sagging door I replaced the top pin and bushings from AutoZone.
  • My 1998 Blazer has over 210,000 and the 95 S10 pickup over 300,000.
  • I just finished replacing intake manifold gaskets. Of course, I had to remove the distributor, but I think I may have placed it in incorrectly. It took a couple of cranks before the engine would run, but it did. I let the engine run for a few minutes to allow the fresh coolant to circulate and to make sure that my gaskets were holding. I then changed the oil. I tried to run the engine to allow for the fresh oil to circulate and make sure that there was no water leaking into my oil, BUT it would not start. My dad says it sounds like it's "out of timing" and must be from not placing the distributor back in correctly.? So maybe I put the distributor back in wrong? How do I set it correctly? I am far from a mechanic, please feel free to "dummy-dumb" any replies to this post... I may need it. Thank you in advance!
  • Also, I replaced distirbutor cap.
  • If you set the position at top dead center (TDC) the rotor would be at the nine o'clock position in the distributor... there is an indicator on the distributor housing right below the rotor to show its correct position. You have to start at the eight o'clock position when your reinstall it... as it will rotate to the nine o'clock position as you are lowering it into place. These engines are small enough that you can actually rotate the crank by hand... but it takes some strength to do it... unless you remove the plugs of course... then there is no compression to fight against.

    I have photos if you need them.

    Good Luck...
  • I previously, by mistake, posted this on engine swap but got no response.

    Can anyone tell me what is involved in replacing the crank seals, front and rear. Also, would this be cost effective considering it's 20 years old with 190,000 mi. Had some issues earlier this year but now running very well. Trans. has aprox. 20,000 mi., This summer installed complete new AC system, ball joints, complete new front axles w/ CV joints. New radiator last year. New seals or a complete rebuild? I bought it new and hate to see it go.

    All opinions appreciated.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited October 2010
    The one-piece rear crankshaft seal can be replaced with the engine in the car. The oil pan must be unbolted from the block and dropped down one or two inches, the starter, transmission, torque converter, and the flex plate (flywheel) must be removed so you can un-bolt the old seal and housing from the block so you can pull it off the cranksahft. . A new main seal and housing assembly is installed in the reverse order. The new seal and housing kit can be purchased from any GM dealership parts department. The most difficult part of the job was previously installing a new seal in the old seal housing. GM eliminated that problem for us. The new seal and housing kit has the rear seal already installed in the housing and the whole assembly is ready to be installed on the crankshaft and bolted to the block. A new gasket must be installed between the seal housing and the block and the gasket probably comes in the kit. If it doesn't come in the seal kit, the housing to block gakset can be purchased separately for a dollar or two. It should take an HONEST auto repair shop about 8 hours to do that job as described, at a cost of about $500.

    The seal kit is GM part number 14088556 with a MSRP of $66.43. The kit is STILL AVAILABLE as of this date. It is a one piece seal and housing with the pan studs already installed in the seal housing. The engine does not have to be removed to install the one piece seal kit like the 2 -piece seals found on the 1986 and earlier V6 and V8 Chevrolet engines. The front of the block does not have a seal like the rear crank seal so it is probably the front timing cover gasket or timing cover crankshaft seal that is leaking. The radiator, serpentine belt and front balancer/pulley assembly must be removed and the crank seal must be replaced. It is located in the metal timing chain cover. If you are in the used car business, this not cost effective since the resale value of the car is about $2000. It is a good investment if you plan on keeping the car for another five or six years.

    Since the one piece rear cranshaft seal is still available at any GM dealership (special order) I will buy a couple of spares for my '91 S10 Blazer 4x4. That is because every time I start liking a product, it is not around very long. If it is discontinued, it will not be long before an aftermarket company starts making it. However, I try not to buy anything but AC Delco or Genuine GM parts, even if they are made in Mexico and China. Unlike American manufacturers, the Chinese have excellent quality control......they chop your head off if you make a mistake.

    I have rebuilt a .030" OS 4.3L V6 engine for my 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4 with forged 350 V8 pistons and a high-performance comoputer compatible camshaft. I am the original owner and the vehicle is in showroom condition with only 150,000 miles on the odometer. . I am continually replacing parts on that vechicle not because they have failed, but just because they are 19 years old . I am not in the used car business so I do not worry about making a profit if I someday sell the vehicle. I sold my '63 Pontiac Catalina 421 HO for $16,000 and I had $50,000 invested in it. That is what happens when two fools meet.
  • Thanks duntov. Great answer and I certainly appreciate it.

    I had no thoughts about doing this one myself. Wanted to be somewhat educated before approaching a shop. I can't say mine is anywhere near showroom appearance but not bad and has served me well. I am surprised at your estimate. Being so labor intensive, I feared much more. The ball joints and axles cost $663. The operative word is HONEST.

    The other question is "pay me now or pay me later". I have no way of knowing the condition of the rest of the engine. Since you guys helped me back in July, the truck is running very well. Gas consumption about as always before. Not good but no different. Oil pressure 40 +/- 5. No evidence of burning oil. Never had to add before this leak. Always changed oil and filter religiously. It still has the power to, easily, pull my 26 foot boat up a steep ramp. Low range 4X4 of course.

    Thank you
  • If the oil pressure is good, and the engine uses no oil between changes, the internal condition is probably good. Your frequent oil and filter changes are the key to this.

    My 98 Blazer has 210,000 on 4.3 V6. I haven't needed to replace the rear seal yet.

    I did replace the timing chain and cover. Rockauto had the cover complete with gaskets for $20, and the gasket set alone was $12. Since the truck is 4WD, another source of leaks was the hose assembly for the remote oil filter, so I had it replaced also.

    For any part that is labor intensive, buy the best parts you can get. Don't want to do the labor twice because of cheap parts.

    Good luck with the Blazer.
  • It's going into the shop this week. Think I will keep this one for as long as I can, Better the devil you know. In hindsight, I may have caused this problem myself. Lot of guys recommended SeaFoam for older engines. I used it in the last oil change. Now this problem. May have killed it with kindness as I sometimes do in my garden with too much fertilizer. A case of, " if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it."

    Thanks for your comments.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited October 2010
    I have never used Sea Foam and probably never will. When my 1991 S10 Blazer got 120,000 miles on it, I switched to Valvoline Max-Life motor oil and I have used Chevron gasoline with Techron and now my Blazer has 150,000 miles with no leaks and it runs smooth as silk. I first thought Techron additive was just a gymick but if you use Texaco or Chevron gasoline with Techron blended at the refinery, it definetly keep the fuel injectors clean and reconditions the fuel pump. . Techron was specifically introduced for fuel injected engines and will do very little for carburated engines.

    At 120,000 miles, I also replaced my o2 sensor and the EGR valve and it nearly felt like a new engine in about 100 miles when the computer reprogrammed itself to the new parts. The OE EGR valve was completely coked up with carbon deposits. I cleaned out the intake manfold EGR ports before I installled the new EGR valve. The old cliche "If it ain't broke don't fix it" does not allways apply to some parts on automobiles. For automobiles it should be: "If it ain't broke, fix it before it is broke" That is called "maintenance". Many parts on tmodern cars nowdays are "wear parts" and should be replaced according to the mortality of the part or before they fail completely. Shock absorbers, ignition coils, ignition wire, ignition module, EGR vavle, spark plugs, distributor caps, rotors, ect. are just some of the thing that need routine replacemnt. Of course, you must take the over-all condition of the vehicle into consideration and what you want to do with it. I have a fresh engine ready to install in my 1991 S10 Blazer that cost about $3000 to build. If I wanted to sell my 1991 S10 Blazer the day after I installed the engine, I could not ask more than $3000 for it.

    I recently junked my 1998 Ford Crown Victoria with 90,000 miles that had a broken timing chain. The timing chain broke and bent some valves. I figured up the cost to fix the engine and it would cost more than the car is worth. I should have spent $500 and replaced the timing chain at 60,000 miles just as Ford recommended, before it broke and ruined the engine. .
  • John...

    I have used the SeaFoam in my 1996 Blazer... 210800 miles... in the gas only. Most likely what happened to cause your seals to leak... same as when you start using synthetic oils on higher mileage vehicles... I use Amsoil only... is the false seal created by crude was dissolved away... allowing for a temporary gap in the seal and the surface that it was sealing... this will most likely seal itself... as the seal will return to its original position before the crude build up. I have experienced this when converting high mileage vehicles... over 80K to synthetics (Amsoil). Hope this helps.

  • UPDATE; Thanks to all for your help. Got the car back this PM. Was not the crank seals. Something they called Housing adapter. Maybe oil lines to the cooler. I don't really know. O ring kit$17.44, labor $118.50. What ever, --- I'm happy. I think someone suggested this as a possibility. As to the " if it ain't broke don't try to fix it", school of thought, I have to agree to a point. That being that, other than truly routine maintenance, most of us have no clue until it stops running. I envy those who are that knowledgeable and appreciate your help.

    New subject; Why would it cost $500.00 +, to replace the motor mounts. One under the Trans., Two under the engine? Again, I have no clue.
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